iPad Pro 12.9" Screen Replacement
Introdução
Ir para o passo 1Follow the steps in this guide to replace the screen in an iPad Pro 12.9", or to access other internal components for servicing.
Note that the home button installed in your original screen is paired to the iPad's logic board, and will need to be removed and transferred to the new screen to retain Touch ID functionality.
Before beginning, check to see if your replacement part has a daughterboard adhered to its back. If so, this guide will work for you. Otherwise, you will need to transfer the board from the old screen to the new one. Transferring the daughterboard from the original to replacement unit will require specialty microsoldering equipment and we recommend DIY users source a new part rather than attempt the procedure.
Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the LTE model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.
The opening procedure for this iPad Pro is shown using a Halberd Spudger. If you don’t have one, you can use an opening pick instead—the process is the same.
O que você precisa
Fix Kit
Este kit contém todas as peças e ferramentas necessárias para executar este guia.
Peças
Ferramentas
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Completely power down your iPad before you begin.
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If your screen is cracked, lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's screen until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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As you slice through the adhesive, note the following:
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The top has a large patch of thick adhesive. You'll need to slice 1/2" deep in order to cut the adhesive.
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Don't slice deeper than 2 mm along the long edges of the iPad, or you risk damaging the display panel.
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The lower edge also has thick patches of adhesive, but there are delicate flex cables in each corner. Don't slice deeper than 1/4" around the lower corners.
I have an A1652 iPad pro 12.9” that was originally my wife’s. The battery doesn’t hold a charge very long in use so I read through this guide and ordered the kit and battery. This iPad has a gold colored case that appears to wrap over the edges of the screen. As a result I could not find any place to slice through the adhesive. Model number brought up on the “about” screen is ML3P2LL/A and serial is DLXR3M7LGMW5. Is this possibly a transition model? Any ideas?
Hello! Based on the model number, it looks like you have the 1st generation cellular version of the iPad Pro 12.9". This guide should work for you. The tolerances on the iPad are very tight—you're looking for the seam between the black bezel and the gold case. You'll need a lot of heat in order to loosen the bezel.
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Heat an iOpener and lay it over the left edge of the iPad to soften the adhesive holding the screen in place.
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Wait two minutes for the adhesive to soften before proceeding to the next step. The edge should be slightly too hot to the touch.
Oven works fine: preheat to ~225 then turn off, protect back with towel and warm for 10-15 minutes. Basically the same as a car interior in summer, this skips about a dozen steps. Used mini plastic pry tools and a few picks/cards, no need for suction or iopener: yet another reason microwaves should be relegated to diners to destroy perfectly good food. Two issues from my surgery: damaged small section of screen border by carding too far inside the device while effortlessly slicing through adhesive, and one of the smart connector pins was revived from bent pin purgatory. Apple’s planned obsolescence genius truly shines through the multipin snap connectors. I detached the screen cable before disabling battery, YMMV; remainder of procedure was done to spec with disabled battery on reinstall. Screw monster only ate about 2, even after breaking an elbow sweat with 70% iso the residual adhesive should outlast the ios nerf that will bring this ipad to the grave. Much easier than first impression with oven.
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Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next two steps.
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Attach a suction cup to the left edge of the iPad's screen, above the Smart Connector port.
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Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:Halberd Spudger$2.99
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Lay a hot iOpener along the bottom left corner of the iPad, spanning from the opening pick to the home button.
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After letting the adhesive soften, insert an opening pick or halberd spudger into the gap next to the Smart Connector.
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Use an opening pick or halberd spudger to slice the adhesive along the bottom left side of the iPad. If the slicing becomes difficult, reheat the edge and try again.
Well, this is the scariest part so hold my beer. I tried something similar to the “iOpener” which is a gel filled heat/cold pack I could microwave. That was good to start warming, but I was too impatient to get the first pick under, so I got out my heat gun. Mine is a 1200 watt model and I used it on low, the tip about 3 fingers away from the glass, sweeping it over 8” sections about 10 times taking about 3 seconds per pass. It worked ok and I now have 10 picks pried under all edges. Took about 35 minutes to this point. Only difficulty here is bracing the iPad while sliding the picks under the glass - need to be careful to not knock out the picks you already have inserted.
One note I might offer is that it’s not entirely clear from your pics which is the top/bottom/left/right side because it’s hard to see the button on the screen in your pics. Another is to mark your 2mm pick depth with whiteout or something similar.
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Lay a hot iOpener along the upper left corner of the iPad, spanning from the opening pick to the front-facing camera. Wait a minute to let the adhesive soften.
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Use an opening pick to slice the adhesive along the upper left side of the iPad. If the slicing becomes difficult, reheat the edge and try again.
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Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the top edge of the device. Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften.
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Use an opening pick to slice through the top edge of the iPad, stopping before you reach the front-facing camera.
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If the slicing becomes hard, reheat the edge and try again.
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Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the top edge of the device. Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften.
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Insert an opening pick or a halberd spudger blade just past the front-facing camera.
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Use the opening pick to slice through the adhesive in the upper right corner.
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If the slicing becomes hard, reheat the edge and try again.
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Soften the adhesive by heating the right edge of the iPad using an iOpener.
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Use an opening pick or halberd spudger to slice along the right edge of the iPad, till you reach the lower right corner.
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Leave an opening pick in the middle of the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Lift up the upper edge of the screen and slide the entire screen towards the front-facing camera to access the iPad's internal components.
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Use masking tape to tape the lower edge of the screen to the frame to prevent the screen from slipping.
For me, disaster struck at this step. I was being careful but somehow lifted the wrong end and snapped the ribbon cable.
😟😟😟 Be careful It would have been helpful to label the screen's top and bottom edges with a marker and tape at the beginning of the repair process. For that matter, label right and left edges as well. Then change all dialog to reference top, bottom, left, or right. I think it would make it easier to follow the instructions
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Attach a long strip of masking tape to the top edge of the screen. Fold the tape over the edge and make sure that the tape is attached securely.
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Attach the other end of the strip to the bottom edge of the iPad frame to hold the screen at an angle. Make sure the tape attaches securely to the frame.
Just make sure you use plenty of tape on the backside of the screen and on the underside of the iPad and the tape won't slip.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the nine screws securing the logic board EMI shield:
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Eight 1.2 mm screws
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One 2.4 mm screw
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Lift the logic board EMI shield from the edge nearest the top of the iPad.
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Peel up and remove the EMI shield from the logic board.
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Remove the logic board EMI shield.
In the iPad 4G version, this is where the cellular radio sits. You might see some different chips underneath the EM shield, and a little adhesive gasket. When I pulled my EM shield off I tried not to disturb that adhesive, and put it back when I was done.
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Make a battery blocker using a playing card and slide it underneath the logic board connector to disconnect the battery.
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Leave the blocker there to prevent the battery connector leads from making contact until you have completed your repairs.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the display cable bracket:
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Two 2.4 mm screws
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One 1.2 mm screw
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Remove the display cable bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display and digitizer cables from their logic board sockets.
Would it help to draw a sharpie line between the two parts of the connector, so these can be alingned when refitting?
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Remove the screen.
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If your screen didn't come with pre-applied adhesives, use our screen adhesive application guide to install fresh pre-cut adhesive strips when reassembling your iPad.
Phew! One hour 45, took my time, maybe cut that in half if I did it again and pray I don’t have to. Working sideways, the little screws were usually caught by the battery on the bottom edge. Need a shorter Phillips than in the iFixit kit. And looks like I don’t need the pre-cut adhesives I bought as they were on the replacement screen - hopefully I can get a refund.
Good time for a coffee break before cleaning off the old adhesive. Quite a relief to get the screen off & thanks much to you guys for getting me this far.
Es wäre sehr schön, wenn hier noch jemand beschreiben könnte, wie man "unfallfrei" die Klebereste vom Display rundherum entfernt. Ich habe das in meinem Falle ganz vorsichtig mit Isopropanol (hochrein) getan. Die Klebereste gingen damit gut ab - trotzdem ist das eine sehr aufwendige Arbeit, bis man alles sauber hat. Zudem kann man noch so vorsichtig sein, durch die angebrachte Displayunit auf der Rückseite der Displayscheibe und die dadurch entstehende Kapillarwirkung zieht sich immer Isopropanol zwischen Display und Displayunit, was danach zu hellen Flecken führt. Ich hoffe, die verschwinden wieder, wenn das Iso abgetrocknet / ausgetrocknet ist.
Vielleicht hat jemand eine gute Idee, wie man diese Klebereste entfernt, ohne dass das Beschriebene passiert.
Markus,
I just wouldn't use any isopropyl alcohol to remove the residue. We're going to immediately apply more adhesive right after we remove the old adhesive, so if there's a little bit of sticky residue remaining, that's not a problem for us. I would just scrape as best as I could with a spudger, make sure there's no adhesive on the internals, and call it a day.
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Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers to remove the tape covering the ZIF connector above the home button.
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Use an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to soften the adhesive under the cable before you pry it up.
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Alternatively, apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol to the cable and wait for a minute to let the adhesive soften.
I used a heat gun on low air, set to 150°C, and very very gentle pressure with the tweezers, and it came out very easily and neatly.
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Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol to the base of the home button bracket.
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Alternatively, you can use a heated iOpener to loosen the adhesive.
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Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:Tesa 61395 Tape$5.99
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Remove the home button bracket.
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Scrape off as much of the old adhesive residue as you can, then clean it with acetone or high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol.
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Secure the bracket with E6000 glue, superglue, or high-strength double-sided tape. Make sure the bracket is aligned correctly before allowing your adhesive to cure, or the home button will not click when pressed.
Would be really nice if the adhesive strip kit for the screen included the adhesive bits needed to secure the existing home button to the new screen (or a new home button to an existing screen).
One more thing about the bracket: you really need a strong adhesive when you put it back, so that pushing the button doesn’t dislodge it. If it doesn’t hold the button firmly, you can push the button out of its socket during normal use. Getting the bracket in and aligning it without accidentally sticking it in the wrong place or (much worse) sticking it to the fragile ribbon cable takes some very careful work.
This is an excellent guide, but I’d like to see maybe the first two steps of reassembly, showing how to do this correctly.
When replacing the bracket, a very slight difference in the replacement part caused the bracket to make the home button click all the time. The little white washer between the home button and the back of the glass was about 0.3 mm thicker than the original, and i had already superglued those parts together.
Fortunately, the playing card included in the kit is about 0.3 mm thick. I cut 2 small rectangles and superglued them to the feet of the bracket, so it would stand away from the home button. Then superglued the bracket on, and now it clicks perfectly. Hopefully I don't have any issues with the playing card delaminating as the home button wears, because I definitely don't know if i could get this ipad apart again (the first time was easier because the screen was already shattered).
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Gently push the home button from the front of the display inward using the tip of a finger.
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Remove all packing tape.
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Peel any adhesive liners from the flex cables and press the cables in place onto the display panel.
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Fold and connect the flex cable in the bottom left corner of the screen.
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Don't peel and expose the perimeter adhesive until you've tested your repair and are ready to seal up the iPad.
manca la parte di montaggio del nuovo schermo ?
Ciao Roberto,
Per montare il nuovo schermo, puoi seguire le istruzioni dello smontaggio in ordine inverso. I punti con la puntina da disegno si riferiscono in particolare al rimontaggio.
Buona riparazione!
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
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24Comentários do guia
Hello there OK so I have 2 screens with 2 different connectors one L shaped (which is on the new screen) and the old cracked screen has a rectangular type? I’m not sure rather it’s a 1gen/2nd gen type of problem? I’m about to grab my hot air gun to completely disassemble the cracked screen, as maybe I’m missing something? Any assistance is welcome… well actually please help me with this before I get a headache since this has totally frustrated me and i’ve had this sitting for nearly 2 1/2 months now but it’s about that time that I readdress this in attempt to fix it.
Hi, does your replacement screen have the home button assembly included? Otherwise there's need of soldering the assembly to it before it can be installed.
Dreetn -
hi
does anyone knows why there is a foam adhesive in thr back of the screen ? do i need to put back when i replaxe screen ?
thanks
I suppose the foam adhesive is similar to the one on the back of the 6s screens. I guess it has more of a heat dissipation function or is meant to absorb any pointy pressure points from inside that may develop (loose screw, sand, dirt...)
Dreetn -
hi
hope someone can help . i tested couple of screens before fitting them in they were working but once tech close it there no touch or black lcd (backlight on but no image )
NB : they disconnect battery before connecting Screen
If you don't have this problem while the assembly is still loose, my best guess is that you have an unwanted contact somewhere, causing a short circuit or malfunction. Perhaps in the bending of the flex?
Dreetn -
Removing the screen takes a great degree of patience. You apply heat, and pull on the suction cup, and for a long time nothing seems to happen. Do not try to replace time with force at this point keep heating and pulling on various areas, you will get separation. It took 5 or 6 heating/pulling cycles to start to see results. Then you can work your way around.
MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT INSERT ANY CARDS/PICKS/SPUDGERS MORE THAN 1/4 inch tops!! YOU WILL DAMAGE THE SCREEN. Just replaced the battery in my iPad Pro 12.9 (A1652). Unfortunately I did not read this until completed. I now have several areas on my $1000 iPad where the white screen has orange burn looking marks around the edges. Looks like it was a $200 oops. Live and Learn. I’m now a member and will utilize this website for future endeavors…
You know any workshop who does a repair for my three iPad Pro 12.9 front glasses with the digitizer,
Sometimes the process is called OCA refurbishment oder LCD refurbishment.
NOT the display-unit as a whole. I have two models from 2015 and one from 2017. The model numbers are a 1584 and a 1670.
In Germany there are a few companies who are able to do it, but not affordable. The prices are nearly as high as a complete swap of the display unit.
Just wondering, I work in a repair shop, and am replacing the front panel entirely but unfortunately screwed up soldering the daughterboard. Is this a part they MUST be transferred or am I safe to just replace it?
Hello.
Is it possible to change only the “Glas” and not the Display? My display works fine but the Protecting Glas is broken.
Hi, that’s possible for very, very experienced technicians. Not only do you need to heat up the screen quite a lot to soften up the LOCA glue, but furthermore you need to cut it with a cutting wire while making sure not to damage the LCD underneath. I also fear the iPad pro will probably require some micro-soldering to be able to (dis)connect the glass from all the rest (but perhaps I’m confusing things with the first screen modules in mind that came out but still needed some micro-soldering to finish them of at that time). In short, if you haven’t separated touchscreens/glass plates several times before … don’t even think about it. The above is only half the trouble to go through as the new touchscreen/glass needs to be attached to the LCD again with new LOCA glue afterwards. Again a job which requires a lot of expertise.
Dreetn -
I used this guide to replace a screen for my iPad Pro. The device powers on but now gets stuck in a boot loop. I took it to a local phone repair shop and they said they don’t do repairs on iPad Pros because they always get stuck in boot loops. I wish there was a warning on this guide telling people this so they don’t go to all the effort and spend money on a new screen just to get their iPad stuck in a boot loop.
Brandon, I don’t know of any specific ‘sensitivity’ that iPad Pro’s have towards repairing that would result in bootloops.
I think it is more likely that either
- The repair shop isn’t keen on repairing your device because parts are expensive and/or difficult to find (for instance motherboard parts). They just tell you a believable story to avoid having to say ‘Too risky’ or ‘Not worth our effort/time’.
- Something got damaged during the repair.
Another possibility, which you can easily put aside yourself, is software damage. Try a full restore (without data retention) with tools such as 3uTools. It’s free software. I advise using the iTunes restore method. You can first try a restore with ‘retain user’s data’ but success ratio is minimal there. Best is to go for a clean flash/restore.
Good luck!
Dreetn -
No matter how many times I have tried to apply the iOpener, or to use a dryer for 10 mins (iPad was super hot), I’m simply unable to lift the screen with the suction cup, even for a micron. Anything I could have missed ?
Hi Laurent, it sounds like you’re on the right track—continue gradually applying more heat until the adhesive softens a little. Unfortunately these screens are super hard to remove. Just be careful about applying too much heat at once in a small area as that could damage the screen.
While removing the screen I accidentally pulled the soldering from the daughterboard to the display cable. is their a way to fix this or is it an issue?
This was an awesome guide! It was really fun, but a lot of really careful work!! How could anybody do this repair and charge a reasonable rate for the labor? It took me soooo long.
Bonjour, je n'arrive pas à connecter les deux nattes pour remettre l'écran. Sur l'écran original, le tout se solidarise avec un click mais la impossible de connecter les deux. Avez-vous une solution ?
MErci,
Bonjour @alexandrebesse, avez-vous vérifié que votre pièce est bien compatible avec votre iPad ? Si c'est le cas, veuillez contacter le SAV, au support@ifixit.com (pour la boutique américaine) ou au eustore@ifixit.com (pour la boutique européenne et française) en cas d'achat chez iFixit. Bon diagnostic ! Claire
DO NOT BELIEVE THE YELLOW MARKING ON THE LOWER EDGE!! There are 5 cables there that you can easily cut. Should have been indicated better on the map. Try not to slide the pick on that area and just poke gently inside.
