Introdução
Use this guide to replace the battery in your iPad 7.
Note: this guide is for the Wi-Fi version only. For the LTE version, click here.
For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your iPad. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.
O que você precisa
-
-
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the device for two minutes.
-
-
-
While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:
-
Front camera
-
Antennas
-
Display cables
-
-
Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
-
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
-
Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
-
Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
-
Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
-
-
-
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
-
If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
-
Insert an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
-
Skip the next step.
-
-
-
Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.
-
Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
-
Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.
I had a screen that was lightly cracked, and when I pulled up on the glass it cracked even further and made a mess of my removal. So, I would recommend taping cracks even if you can get suction so that you don’t induce even more cracks.
I actually had a really badly cracked digitizer. Using the suction cup did nothing but shatter the digitizer more. I intentionally drove a flat head screw driver into the digitizer to reveal the recess in the body where they are showing the opening-pick. Working around the edge, the glass shattered. You still need to be careful at all of spots noted in step 2.
Do not go under the digitizer more than the 1 mm along the sides or 3-4 mm at the corners as shown in step 29 using the flat grey ring around the edge for a reference. Direct all of your tool force into the body to prevent slipping into critical parts.
The antennas at either side of the home button were the trickiest part as they were thin and slightly attached to the digitizer. I would recommend using a plastic tool for these parts if you are having to 'scrape' the glass off of the tabs of the antenna.
-
-
-
Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.
-
Slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
-
Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
-
-
-
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for two minutes.
-
-
-
Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
-
-
-
Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just before you reach the front camera.
-
-
-
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.
-
-
-
Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
-
-
-
Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
There are sensitive display/digitizer cables no less than five inches from the bottom edge of the iPad. Insert the pick further down than this, or deeper than 1mm beyond this point and you risk irreparably damaging these cables.
Three inches is much too far down this side of the iPad to use picks.
-
-
-
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the device for two minutes.
-
-
-
Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.
-
Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner before moving to the next step.
-
-
-
Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.
-
Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.
-
Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.
-
-
-
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.
-
-
-
While supporting the digitizer, slide an opening pick between the two display cables to separate the last of the adhesive.
-
-
-
Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the digitizer like a book and rest it parallel to the iPad.
While reassembling, REALLY make sure the display cables and the home button cable won't be folded / bent while closing the digitizer. I'm not exactly sure what I did, but I broke the home button and touch ID since I bent the home button cable to the point that it broke. These ribbon cables are SUPER fragile.
-
-
Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.3 mm-long screws securing the LCD to the frame.
-
Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
-
Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the frame.
-
Lay the LCD down onto a clean, soft, lint-free surface to allow access to the display cables.
When flipping the LCD over be aware the the cable can be just short enough that when you flip it the tension caused can potentially cause damage if not carefully paid attention to. When LCD loosened from mounts, the bottom two corners can be left within the frame after you flip it.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.3 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
-
-
-
Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
-
Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the LCD cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.
-
-
-
-
Remove the LCD completely and rest it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface.
-
-
Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:Tweezers$4.99
-
Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.
-
-
-
Use a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two digitizer cable press connectors.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator near the bottom-right corner of the device.
-
Remove the vibration isolator.
-
-
Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:Polyimide Tape$9.99
-
Remove the front panel assembly.
-
If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit replacement digitizers come with the proper insulation and should not require the addition of any tape.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the upper component bracket.
-
-
Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:Tweezers$4.99
-
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the upper component bracket from the frame.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the front camera cable's press connector.
-
-
-
Insert an opening pick between the front camera shell and the frame.
-
-
-
Insert a spudger between the front camera and the microphone assembly
-
Pry up to separate the front camera's adhesive.
-
Remove the front camera.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack by lifting straight up on the press connector.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera by lifting straight up on the press connector.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the microphone assembly by lifting straight up on the press connector.
-
-
-
Peel off any tape covering the button control cable ZIF connector.
-
-
-
Peel off any tape covering the Smart Cover sensor cable ZIF connector.
-
-
-
Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left antenna's coaxial cable.
-
Repeat for the right antenna's coaxial cable.
-
-
-
Peel the left antenna cable away from the frame, along the bottom edge of the iPad.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator at the bottom left corner of the iPad.
-
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the vibration isolator.
-
-
-
Use a pair of tweezers, or your fingers, to peel up the tape covering the speaker connectors.
-
-
-
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Smart Connector coaxial cable by prying up as close to the connector as possible.
-
-
-
Peel the Smart Connector cables away from the frame.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the charging port to the frame:
-
Two 2.2 mm-long screws
-
Two 3.2 mm-long screws
-
-
-
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom, top, and logic board side of the iPad for thirty seconds in each location.
-
-
-
Insert an opening pick under the charging port cable near the logic board and slide it toward the charging port to slice the adhesive.
-
-
-
Insert an opening pick under the charging port cable near the charging port and slide it towards the logic board to cut the adhesive.
There are two screws on the front of the charging port (not above it) that have to be reomoved on ipad 7 Model A2197 before you can pull the charging port out of it's slot in the frame as instructed.
-
-
-
Insert an opening pick under the upper arm of the logic board and slide it toward the logic board to cut the adhesive securing it to the frame.
-
Leave the opening pick inserted to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.
-
-
Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:Halberd Spudger$2.99
-
Use a halberd spudger or an opening pick to slice any remaining adhesive securing the logic board to the frame.
-
-
-
Cut a strip of painter's tape or scotch tape to the width of the iPad.
-
Press the bottom edge of the tape strip onto the rear case above the speakers and bottom antennas.
-
Press the top edge of the tape strip over the bottom components to keep any cables from intruding on the battery removal.
-
-
-
Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover.
-
Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.
-
Protective gloves are included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.
-
-
-
Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.
-
Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.
-
-
-
The red boxes show the locations of the adhesive strips that secure the battery to the rear case.
If folks have a 3D printer with a heated bed (which is pretty common), putting the iPad on a 60 degree C bed for a few minutes really helps loosen up the glue with the alcohol. Worked for me this time around.
-
-
-
Apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration isopropyl alcohol along the left edge of the battery.
-
-
Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:Plastic Cards$2.99
-
Insert a plastic card at the bottom right corner of the battery.
-
-
-
Remove the plastic card below the battery connector and insert it under the bottom edge of the battery.
-
-
-
Remove the plastic card above the battery connector and insert it under the upper edge of the battery.
-
Slide the plastic card along the top edge of the battery to cut the adhesive strip.
-
-
-
Insert the plastic card under the upper left corner of the battery.
-
Slide the plastic card down towards the bottom of the iPad.
-
When you reach the center edge of the battery, insert the plastic card as far as you can to cut the central adhesive strip.
-
-
Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:Tesa 61395 Tape$12.99
-
Remove the battery.
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 7 Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 7 Answers community for help.
Cancelar: não concluí este guia.
6 outras pessoas executaram este guia.
