Samsung Galaxy S10 Loudspeaker Replacement
Introdução
Ir para o passo 1Follow this guide to remove the loudspeaker in the Samsung Galaxy S10. For this model, the loudspeaker is built into the lower midframe.
The hardest part of this guide is removing the S10’s back cover.
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Unplug and power off your phone before you begin.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the back cover's right edge for two minutes.
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As you wait, take a look at the image of the removed back cover and take note of where the adhesive is located.
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Rest the heated right edge of the phone on something that is about 0.5 inches (13 mm) thick. This angles the phone for the opening tool.
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Brace the left edge of the phone with your fingers so that the phone won't slide. Pull on the suction cup with firm pressure.
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Press the edge of an opening tool into the seam between the back cover and the frame.
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With the opening tool in place in the seam, slide it back and forth along the seam to loosen the back cover.
Might be hard with the suction cup on a cracked back. I'd rather break it off and buy a new back (it's super cheap, around 10$ online).
Guenter -
Yes! Apply a layer of packing tape to the cracked back cover first, and the suction cup will adhere to the smooth tape surface.
I will open the one that I am taking out of the computer now and then I will follow where it is
Am besten 2 mal gut erwährmen. Danach geht das öfnen top.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the same edge of the phone for two minutes.
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Apply a suction cup to the back of the phone, as close to the center of the right edge as possible (where the adhesive is narrowest).
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Pull on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back cover and the frame.
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Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.
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If you are having trouble creating a gap, the adhesive isn't weakened enough. Make sure you have heated the edge until just barely too hot to touch try this step again.
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You can try applying a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol into the seam to help loosen the adhesive.
I had trouble lifting up to create a gap. What I did is watch Jerry rig everything's teardown and he said the back glass must be barely too hot to touch in order for the adhesive to weaken.
So I heated the iOpener till it was too hot to touch, but not so long that it would burst. Put on right edge for a few minutes. Then I lift with the suction cup, using my middle finger and thumb to grip the sides of the phone and my pointer finger to pull up on the suction cup .
I cleaned the glass with an alcohol wipe beforehand to make the suction cup stick better, though I'm sure any cleaning method that removes fingerprints will help.
I couldn't make as big a gap as shown in the picture, but I was able to stick my metal jimmy tool carefully into the crack between the glass and the metal frame and it was just enough to slide the tool a little. And I was very careful since it's a metal tool. After that I could stick the plastic pick in and slice the adhesive and then that gets you started removing the back cover. Reheat often to weaken and slice adhesive. STOP and reheat if it even gets a little harder to slice. DON'T risk cracking the glass.
I think we should add that they should treat the back glass as gently as a raw eggshell. That's because I thought I wasn't applying excessive force and caused the glass to crack, but I didn't understand what counts as "excessive force." (A bit vague)
What excessive force actually means is as soon as you feel any resistance at all when slicing glue with the pick, stop and apply more heat before continuing. The glass can crack very very easily, when pressure is applied in only a small section.
See for me it was weird, the glass was weirdly weak. I just put the iOpener in the microwave and put it on there until it was almost too hot to touch and went around, the gap was like 0.5cm already, so I just went around and it came all off in like 10 seconds, I was kind of happy how easy it was, but sadly I went around too fast and now there's a line crack at the top left of my back glass, it's not sharp so it doesn't bother me.
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Slide the opening pick along the edge of the phone, slicing through the adhesive.
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Leave a pick in the seam to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the phone for two minutes.
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Insert an opening pick into the right edge near the bottom right corner.
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Carefully slide the pick around the corner. Continue cutting along the bottom edge and around the bottom left corner.
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Leave an opening pick in the seam to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Once you have sliced around the phone, twist an opening pick in one of the edges to help separate the back cover from the frame.
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Lift the back cover slowly. Use opening picks to slice any remaining adhesive.
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Remove the back cover.
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Remove the eight 4 mm Phillips screws securing the top midframe to the phone.
ネジロックが原因である可能性があるため、iOpener で熱を加えてみてください。
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The midframe is still held in place by a few plastic clips around the edge.
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Insert the point of a spudger into the notch on the right edge of the midframe, near the volume up button.
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Pry up to loosen the midframe from the phone.
Bei mir war die Kerbe durch den Klebstoff komplett verdeckt. Am bestern den Kleber vorher entfernen. Dann geht es einfacher.
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Lift the midframe from the top corners and remove it from the phone.
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To reinstall the top midframe:
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Align the midframe's top edge to the phone and lay the frame down on the phone.
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Use fingers to apply pressure along the midframe perimeter to snap the midframe clips back into place. The edges should sit flush against the phone edge.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the battery connector, which is attached to the motherboard below the rear-facing camera.
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Pry upwards to disconnect the connector from its socket.
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Gently push the battery's flex cable away from the motherboard socket to prevent accidental contact.
Between this step and the next (Step 12, Battery), the lower mainframe is removed in the images but there is no instruction to do so. I was able to remove the battery (1 min of heating with iOpener, plus 8 total drops [2 in each corner] of 90% IPA) without removing this lower mainframe.
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Remove the seven 4 mm Phillips screws securing the lower midframe.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
After you've completed the repair, follow this guide to test your repair.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
After you've completed the repair, follow this guide to test your repair.
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2 comentários
Waarom niet no 1 of 2 foto's toegevoegd om te laten zien welk onderdeel de speaker is en hoe lost te maken ????
I think we should mention that the glass needs to be barely too hot to touch to determine when it's hot enough that a pick can be slid underneath.
Or we can mention a thermometer temperature, but most diy people probably don't have a thermometer to check.
A lot of people seem to have issues using the iopener to unglue phone parts like back glass (can Google it), likely because the glue didn't get hot enough, so mentioning the desired touch temperature can be helpful for DIYers to ensure that their glue is sufficiently weakened and they can begin working off the part.
(Just being hot isn't enough for glue to weaken, as you can probably attest to if you've ever had your phone get really hot but the back cover never came loose)
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