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Introdução

Use this guide to remove or replace the volume button covers in your iPhone 7. This guide is for the physical buttons, and not the electronic switches beneath.

If you need to replace the volume control cable, follow this guide.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Responder

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Responder

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Responder

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Responder

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Responder

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - Responder

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - Responder

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - Responder

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - Responder

  3. Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
    • Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Responder

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Responder

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Responder

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - Responder

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - Responder

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - Responder

  4. Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
    • Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Responder

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Responder

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Responder

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Responder

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Responder

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Responder

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Responder

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Responder

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Responder

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - Responder

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - Responder

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - Responder

  5. Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.
    • Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

  6. Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.
    • Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

    • Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

  7. Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.
    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

  8. Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone. Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Responder

    Made this mistake

    rachael.grime - Responder

  9. Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  10. Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place. Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.
    • Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

    • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - Responder

  11. Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Responder

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Responder

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Responder

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Responder

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - Responder

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - Responder

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - Responder

    • Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.4 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Responder

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Responder

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Responder

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Responder

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Responder

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Responder

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Responder

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Responder

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Responder

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Responder

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Responder

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Responder

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Responder

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

  12. Remove the lower connector bracket.
    • Remove the lower connector bracket.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Responder

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Responder

  13. Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

  14. Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step. Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board. To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

  15. Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Responder

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Responder

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Responder

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Responder

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Responder

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Responder

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Responder

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Responder

  16. Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board. This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Responder

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Responder

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  17. Remove the display assembly.

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Responder

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Responder

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

  18. Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press to eject the tray. This may require a significant amount of force.
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

    • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    Received a sim card tray from IFIXIT for my iphone 7. I can’t seem to get it to close flush no matter how hard I try. Any suggestions?

    AJ Dereume - Responder

  19. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.

  20. Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case: One 1.3 mm screw
    • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.5 mm screw

  21. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

  22. Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module. Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module.

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  24. Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.
    • Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.

  25. Remove the upper cable bracket. Remove the upper cable bracket.
    • Remove the upper cable bracket.

  26. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.

  27. Remove the Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna: Three 1.2 mm screws
    • Remove the Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    I lost one of these 1.2 mm screws. Will that affect the signal reception?

    Bethany Knaebel - Responder

  28. Remove the top left antenna. Remove the top left antenna.
    • Remove the top left antenna.

    ** also remove the small Phillips screw fastening the WiFi antenna to the top rear casing of the phone

    iBroke - Responder

  29. Remove the following Phillips screws:
    • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

  30. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

    What's this bracket called

    Cris Velasquez - Responder

    %#*@, lost that part during the job, thought it’d be alright without it. Couple days later figured out NFC doesn’t work anymore. Any ideas on where to get this part from, colleagues?

    azowux - Responder

  31. Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.
    • Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    What bit is this? The link doesn’t use the same name.

    Mike Moran - Responder

    I didn’t even have an eyeglass repair kit flathead, so I hit the end of a paperclip with a hammer to make a flathead, and it works!

    Ark - Responder

    I hate getting the deep into a repair to find there’s a tool missing. This bit should be part of the toolkit!

    Ark - Responder

    I received two boxes - one box contained the repair part, the other was the tool kit. I only opened the tool kit before disassembling the phone. The standoff screwdriver bit was not in there. Neither was the guitar pick. I used a real guitar pick and a small standard screwdriver from my toolbox. When I was ready to reassemble, I opened the repair part box and guess what was in there - the standoff screwdriver bit and guitar pick. So, I guess if you just order the part it will come with (at least) those two tools. The tool kit contains tweezers, suction cup, three screwdriver bits (tri-point, pentalobe, and phillips) and screwdriver handle, a long black spudger with a flat end and a pointy end, and a smaller, thicker spudger with a wide, flat ends.

    bronyaur - Responder

  32. Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way. Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.
    • Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

  33. Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.

  34. Use tweezers to gently derout the antenna cables from the metal bracket on the logic board. Use tweezers to gently derout the antenna cables from the metal bracket on the logic board. Use tweezers to gently derout the antenna cables from the metal bracket on the logic board.
    • Use tweezers to gently derout the antenna cables from the metal bracket on the logic board.

  35. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.

  36. Remove the following screws:
    • Remove the following screws:

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips screw

    • Three 2.2 mm standoff screws

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

  37. Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way. Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.
    • Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

  38. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up. Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.

    • Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

  39. Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.
    • Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

  40. Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back one of the adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery. Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back one of the adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery.
    • Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back one of the adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery.

  41. Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back the other adhesive strip on the lower edge of the battery. Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back the other adhesive strip on the lower edge of the battery.
    • Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back the other adhesive strip on the lower edge of the battery.

  42. Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly. Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone. Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.
    • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

  43. Repeat the previous step for the second strip. Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case. If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
    • Repeat the previous step for the second strip.

    • Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.

    • If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.

    • Otherwise, if either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

  44. If you successfully removed both adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case. Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or  hair dryer.
    • If you successfully removed both adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.

    • Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.

    • After about a minute, remove the iOpener, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.

    • Avoid bending the battery. Damage to the battery may release dangerous chemicals, and could start a fire.

    • Do not pry under the top third of the battery, you may damage the volume button ribbon cable.

  45. Remove the battery from the rear case.
    • Remove the battery from the rear case.

    • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

  46. Remove the following Phillips screws: Two 1.9 mm screws securing the power button.
    • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • Two 1.9 mm screws securing the power button.

    • Three 2.3 mm screws securing the volume buttons.

  47. Remove the following 1.3 mm Phillips screws: One screw beside the rear-facing camera
    • Remove the following 1.3 mm Phillips screws:

    • One screw beside the rear-facing camera

    • One screw on the rear case

  48. From the outside of the phone, push the hold switch into the rear case with the point of a spudger. This action  will free the hold switch and gasket from the rear case.
    • From the outside of the phone, push the hold switch into the rear case with the point of a spudger.

    • This action will free the hold switch and gasket from the rear case.

  49. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the rear-facing camera. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the rear-facing camera.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the rear-facing camera.

  50. Moving from power button side of the phone, use an opening pick to separate the adhesive holding the antenna flex cable to the rear case. Moving from power button side of the phone, use an opening pick to separate the adhesive holding the antenna flex cable to the rear case.
    • Moving from power button side of the phone, use an opening pick to separate the adhesive holding the antenna flex cable to the rear case.

  51. Slide the point of an opening pick underneath the antenna flex cable towards the top of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive. Slide the point of an opening pick underneath the antenna flex cable towards the top of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive.
    • Slide the point of an opening pick underneath the antenna flex cable towards the top of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive.

  52. Use tweezers to move the antenna flex cable away from the edge of the phone, freeing the screw bracket from the rear case. Remove the antenna flex cable.
    • Use tweezers to move the antenna flex cable away from the edge of the phone, freeing the screw bracket from the rear case.

    • Remove the antenna flex cable.

  53. Remove the 2.3 mm standoff screw securing the flash bracket to the rear case.
    • Remove the 2.3 mm standoff screw securing the flash bracket to the rear case.

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

  54. Remove the flash bracket. Remove the flash bracket.
    • Remove the flash bracket.

  55. Use the point of a spudger to gently unseat the flash module. Use the point of a spudger to gently unseat the flash module.
    • Use the point of a spudger to gently unseat the flash module.

  56. Use the blade of a Halberd spudger to separate the adhesive holding the microphone to the rear case. Use the blade of a Halberd spudger to separate the adhesive holding the microphone to the rear case.
    • Use the blade of a Halberd spudger to separate the adhesive holding the microphone to the rear case.

  57. Gently fold the power button module from the edge of the rear case. Gently fold the power button module from the edge of the rear case.
    • Gently fold the power button module from the edge of the rear case.

  58. Slide the blade of a halberd spudger under the power button end of the button cable to separate it from the adhesive on the rear case. Continue to separate the adhesive by moving the blade towards the top of the phone. Continue to separate the adhesive by moving the blade towards the top of the phone.
    • Slide the blade of a halberd spudger under the power button end of the button cable to separate it from the adhesive on the rear case.

    • Continue to separate the adhesive by moving the blade towards the top of the phone.

  59. Continue to move the blade of the halberd spudger underneath the power and volume control cable. Move slowly to make sure that the cable is not damaged during removal. Move slowly to make sure that the cable is not damaged during removal.
    • Continue to move the blade of the halberd spudger underneath the power and volume control cable.

    • Move slowly to make sure that the cable is not damaged during removal.

  60. Slide the halberd spudger under the volume control portion of the button cable. Gently slide the blade underneath the cable towards the bottom of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive. Gently slide the blade underneath the cable towards the bottom of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive.
    • Slide the halberd spudger under the volume control portion of the button cable.

    • Gently slide the blade underneath the cable towards the bottom of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive.

  61. Remove the power and volume control cable.
    • Remove the power and volume control cable.

  62. Pull the volume button clip towards the bottom of the phone to free it from the bracket. Pull the volume button clip towards the bottom of the phone to free it from the bracket.
    • Pull the volume button clip towards the bottom of the phone to free it from the bracket.

  63. Pull the clip towards the top of the phone to remove it. Pull the clip towards the top of the phone to remove it.
    • Pull the clip towards the top of the phone to remove it.

  64. Pull the volume button clip towards the bottom of the phone to free it from the bracket. Pull the clip towards the top of the phone to remove it. Pull the clip towards the top of the phone to remove it.
    • Pull the volume button clip towards the bottom of the phone to free it from the bracket.

    • Pull the clip towards the top of the phone to remove it.

    Step 95: It may be helpful to push the Volume buttons in while using the spudger. Otherwise, the bracket may get caught under the rim of the case.

    Mike - Responder

  65. Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the bottom edge of the volume button bracket. Adjust the spudger so that it can move away from the rear case without contacting the protruding peg that is on the volume button.
    • Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the bottom edge of the volume button bracket.

    • Adjust the spudger so that it can move away from the rear case without contacting the protruding peg that is on the volume button.

    • Rotate the spudger to pop the bracket off of the peg on the volume button.

  66. Pull the bracket from the rear case. Pull the bracket from the rear case.
    • Pull the bracket from the rear case.

  67. Repeat the procedure to remove the second volume button bracket. Repeat the procedure to remove the second volume button bracket. Repeat the procedure to remove the second volume button bracket.
    • Repeat the procedure to remove the second volume button bracket.

  68. Use the pointed end of a spudger to push each of the volume button covers out of the rear case. Remove the volume button covers. Remove the volume button covers.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to push each of the volume button covers out of the rear case.

    • Remove the volume button covers.

    Niergends findet man ne info wie der stummtasten hebel ersetzt wird. Baue von schwarz auf rot um aber hier muss ich passen. Ich kann das ding welches man mit dem finger umschwitscht nicht austauschen…

    missing-in-army - Responder

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

14 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Scott Havard

Membro desde: 27-06-2016

33.247 reputação

33 Guias de autoria

Removing the battery is excluded from this repair.

Josh M - Responder

R u able to fix water damage

alex - Responder

Hi r u able to fix water damage for iPhone 7

alex - Responder

Hi Alex, the repairability of water damage varies hugely depending on your unique circumstances, but this guide is a good place to start. If the damage is extensive you may want to take your phone to a local repair professional.

Adam O'Camb -

Bonjour je voudrais savoir si vous avais la même explication mais pour iPhone 7+ s’il vous plaît ??

Lydia David - Responder

Does anyone know where to buy the little wire bars shown in step 62?

Trevor Smith - Responder

Tutoriel parfait juste il manque la partie pour retirer la batterie

Valentin Colmant - Responder

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