Senior technical writer, photographer, and tinkerer at iFixit since 2013.
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We're just some folks with repair on our minds...
Senior technical writer, photographer, and tinkerer at iFixit since 2013.
O período do dia em que você esteve ativo nos últimos 90 dias. Cada linha do gráfico é uma ação que você executou no site (só contamos ações importantes, como votação ou edição de postagens). Os números na parte inferior do gráfico são a hora do dia em horário MST.
| Evento | Contagem | Delta |
|---|---|---|
| Alguém completou seu guia | 38981 | 136838 |
| Alguém curtiu seu guia | 14125 | 39599 |
| O administrador aprovou o seu guia | 180 | 22852 |
| Post votado para cima contendo um link para o seu guia | 2580 | 6956 |
| O administrador aprovou o seu guia | 12 | 575 |
| Voto à favor da postagem | 29 | 348 |
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| Alguém gostou de sua tradução de guia | 4 | 4 |
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@isalcedo The camera housing is welded in place from the inside, over the top of the glass. This is why it’s not a very practical repair. Separating the back glass requires very high heat for a sustained period, and the battery should be removed first for safety. Then you have to either destructively cut away the camera ring, or remove the camera and break the welds holding the camera housing in place from the inside. At that point you’ve got the phone halfway disassembled, and you have to sort of cobble the camera housing and back glass together with glue. I’ve seen repair shops kludge it back together in all kinds of ways, but if it were me, I’d replace the entire housing/enclosure and forget about trying to replace the glass by itself. Hope this helps! Best of luck.
As stated above, please do not attempt to use this (or any other iFixit teardown) as instructions. We have extremely detailed guides for every step of this process, so there is no reason to risk breaking something by trying to use a teardown for something it was never intended to be.
@clickykbd This is a great idea! I’d love to add it to the guide. Do you mind sharing the name of the device you were working on, so we can try to get some photos of that connector in the wild? Or do you have some photos of your own? For copyright reasons, we usually can’t borrow other people’s images or graphics for our guides without permission. Thanks for sharing!
If you have a better photo, click the ‘Edit’ button at the top right and add it to the step. iFixit guides are collaborative wikis.
Sorry to hear you had such a rough time. That said, “directions are terrible” is not a very constructive comment—tell us specifically what was unclear and where you had difficulty, and we can try to clarify it for the next person. Meanwhile, you can contact customer service for a refund on your kit.
This is true, and that’s why there are different instructions for the 2017 model.
A damaged battery is potentially dangerous and shouldn’t be used. Liquid damage alone is often enough to make it unsafe; with a puncture, it’s a no-brainer. Get a new battery. If you’re not comfortable doing it yourself, find a repair shop that can replace it for you. Good luck!
The display cable arrangement is a bit different from the MacBook Pro, but it uses similar thin (and non-replaceable) ribbon cables. If I had to guess, I’d say it will develop similar problems over time—but that is emphatically just a guess and it’s too early to say anything for sure.
@tom0m Thanks for sharing! Cool find. Added a link in the teardown.
@sleepycub Either method should work fine! I believe Apple recommends a fresh install of macOS, and then using Migration Assistant to transfer files, for the most stable result. So all things being equal, go with Option 2. Good luck!
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