I dunno. It was a pain, but surprisingly I got mine fixed. When I took it to the apple store they flat out told me that they wouldn’t fix it at all. I couldn’t even send it in to them. Something about no communication with the logic board and they refused to touch it. Thankfully the guides are detailed enough for goofs like me to be successful.
I reconnected the battery to when putting the new sealer in then disconnected it before I reconnected the screen. New batteries come with a charge. It’s best to connect that last.
The gasket is a pain. I’m not even convinced I did it right. The guide stops here and lets you figure out the installation on your own. You can screw yourself if the new connector isn’t placed just right as the connector won’t align. Use the old adhesive areas as guides. I had to take my new part out and install it a second time to get the cable connected. I imagine the usual error is it is too high. The connector ribbon should bend down toward the case just above the connector. Seriously, millimeters count here.
Everything popped out when I disassembled mine. I was able to get the spacers apart after the lightning connector was out. My kit came with new ones, but I just used the old ones. As the above comment states, there are alignment tabs on each one that are hard to see. Be sure to use the adhesive strips that come in the kit.
I couldn’t get my 1.3mm screw out. It’s not required thankfully as you can just bend the cover up and out of the way to complete the rest of the steps.
These doodads are a pain to route and reconnect. I probably spent 15 minutes just on this part of reassembly. One of them is connected to the new part. It won’t have the soft grommet on top.
I had a new phone. These screws were missing when I disassembled it. Not sure what QC Apple has, but it ain’t great. If they’re missing it’s not the end of the world. You can just disable taptic touch.
I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.
I dunno. It was a pain, but surprisingly I got mine fixed. When I took it to the apple store they flat out told me that they wouldn’t fix it at all. I couldn’t even send it in to them. Something about no communication with the logic board and they refused to touch it. Thankfully the guides are detailed enough for goofs like me to be successful.
I reconnected the battery to when putting the new sealer in then disconnected it before I reconnected the screen. New batteries come with a charge. It’s best to connect that last.
The gasket is a pain. I’m not even convinced I did it right. The guide stops here and lets you figure out the installation on your own. You can screw yourself if the new connector isn’t placed just right as the connector won’t align. Use the old adhesive areas as guides. I had to take my new part out and install it a second time to get the cable connected. I imagine the usual error is it is too high. The connector ribbon should bend down toward the case just above the connector. Seriously, millimeters count here.
Getting this thing out really wasn’t that big of a deal. Of note, if you’re also replacing the batter this is a good spot to put the new one in.
Everything popped out when I disassembled mine. I was able to get the spacers apart after the lightning connector was out. My kit came with new ones, but I just used the old ones. As the above comment states, there are alignment tabs on each one that are hard to see. Be sure to use the adhesive strips that come in the kit.
I couldn’t get my 1.3mm screw out. It’s not required thankfully as you can just bend the cover up and out of the way to complete the rest of the steps.
These doodads are a pain to route and reconnect. I probably spent 15 minutes just on this part of reassembly. One of them is connected to the new part. It won’t have the soft grommet on top.
I had a new phone. These screws were missing when I disassembled it. Not sure what QC Apple has, but it ain’t great. If they’re missing it’s not the end of the world. You can just disable taptic touch.
I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.
I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.
Página 1 de 2
Avançar