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Introdução

Use this guide to replace the worn-out battery in your Samsung Galaxy S8.

Before disassembling your phone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions. Do not heat your phone. If needed, you can use a dropper or syringe to inject isopropyl alcohol (90+%) around the edges of the back cover to weaken the adhesive. Swollen batteries can be very dangerous, so wear eye protection and exercise due caution, or take it to a professional if you’re not sure how to proceed.

Vídeo de Apresentação

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Responder

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Responder

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Responder

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Responder

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Responder

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Responder

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Responder

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Responder

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Responder

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Responder

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Responder

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Responder

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Responder

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Responder

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Responder

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Responder

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Responder

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Responder

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Responder

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Responder

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Responder

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Responder

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Responder

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Responder

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Responder

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Responder

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Responder

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Responder

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Responder

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Responder

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Responder

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Responder

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Responder

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Responder

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Responder

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Responder

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Responder

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Responder

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Responder

  3. Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Responder

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Responder

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Responder

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Responder

  4. Opening your phone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement adhesive ready before you proceed, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your phone without replacing the adhesive.
    • Opening your phone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement adhesive ready before you proceed, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your phone without replacing the adhesive.

    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to a long edge of the S8 for about 2 minutes.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the phone warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the OLED display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

    • As you're waiting for the adhesive to soften, move on and read the following step to get an idea of where to pry.

    What type of adhesive should be used to seal? Or better said, what would you recommend.

    Ion Ion - Responder

    I’d recommend precut adhesive designed for the rear cover. If that’s not available, thin, hi-bond double sided tape like 1 mm wide Tesa 61395 tape will work well.

    Adam O'Camb -

    Yes, different microwaves have different power levels (e.g., wattage) so one microwave may explode the iOpener after 31 seconds of heating whereas another microwave will barely warm it. It would be helpful to have a more precise target temperature. My microwave is fairly weak so I’m heating it for seven seconds for every two minutes against the phone. In theory, this should slowly add more heat than is dissipated into the phone and surrounding atmosphere.

    Brett Stime - Responder

  5. In the following steps you will be cutting through the adhesive around the edge of the rear glass panel. The adhesive on the rear case is laid out as seen in the first image.
    • In the following steps you will be cutting through the adhesive around the edge of the rear glass panel.

    • The adhesive on the rear case is laid out as seen in the first image.

    • The prying pattern as seen from the outside of the phone is as follows:

    • Thick portions of adhesive

    • Thin areas of adhesive

    • Avoid prying here, to protect the fingerprint sensor.

    Go clockwise (or counter-clockwise) around the border to avoid causing extra stress on the back. The bottom has a lot more adhesive than you think, towards the top-center.

    Michael M - Responder

  6. Once the back panel is warm to the touch, apply a suction cup as close to the heated edge of the phone as you can while avoiding the curved edge. The suction cup will not make a good seal on the curved portion of the glass.
    • Once the back panel is warm to the touch, apply a suction cup as close to the heated edge of the phone as you can while avoiding the curved edge.

    • The suction cup will not make a good seal on the curved portion of the glass.

    • If the phone's back cover is cracked, the suction cup may not stick. Try lifting it with strong tape, or superglue the suction cup in place and allow it to cure so you can proceed.

    • Lift on the suction cup, and insert a halberd spudger, or opening pick, under the rear glass.

    • Due to the curved glass, you will be pushing up, rather than inserting parallel to the plane of the phone.

    We can't seem to get anything between the edges even after heating the back panel. Any tips?

    Megan Kennington - Responder

    Hi Megan, unfortunately the adhesive is super tough on this one. I’d recommend carefully continuing to apply heat, very gradually so that you don’t accidentally overheat the battery. Eventually you should be able to get a little gap with the suction handle.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I’ve been attempting to get the adhesive to loosen for four hours now. Exactly how much time is this supposed to take? The pictures makes it look like it should be easy. The adhesive still hasn’t budged and I’m beyond frustrated.

    Lori Lucas - Responder

    Hi Lori, sorry to hear the adhesive is being extra stubborn! If reheating and reapplying the iOpener isn’t working, you can try heating the edge with a hairdryer or heat gun. That way you can get more heat onto the edge faster, but be very careful not to overheat the battery inside.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I used a stanley knife - very carefully, after trying for several hours to get the adhesive to loosen. I bought another back cover with adhesive for the assmbley, which is the best option in my opinion. Just be careful not the scratch the case of the phone, and be prepared for the back glass cover to break when removing it.

    James wright - Responder

    The manufacturers really want to make this impossible, huh… I’ve gone 3 years without ever cracking this phone and end up cracking the corner of the back trying to prise it open. Probably should’ve gotten a heat gun too. This is super tight.

    Benjamin Chaim - Responder

    I am currently working on this. I have heated the phone to just barely to hot to hold. No matter how many times I've done this and pulled up with a suction cup I cannot get an edge to lift.

    Being that this is my second phone repair does anyone have advice on this? I've watched several YouTube videos and it looks so easy.

    DAVID LAWRENCE - Responder

    I suggest you try to lift on the middle of an edge using the thinnest spudger you have. also as the edge is curved remember to insert it so to follow the curve. Hopes it helps

    Cajuteq -

    Our issue was that a small gap would open when using the iOpener, but not large enough to get spudger or opening picks in there (also tried hair dryer but same result). Luckily as a guitar player I had some very thin nylon picks that we were able to get in there, which opened up a large enough gap to get the spudger and opening picks in. From there, we were able to heat the other sides and guide the spudger around the entire edge to get the back glass off.

    First we used a Dunlop nylon .38 mm guitar pick, then a .60 mm pick, and that allowed us to get the spudger in.

    Dan Coleman - Responder

    This is by far the hardest part of any tutorial that requires you to open the Samsung. The iOpener is totally useless on my opinion (it doesn’t get warm enough). What I did instead is use a hairdryer but it took me time before I could get the adhesive soft enough. Especially since I was not able to measure the temperature of the phone will warming it. Also I think that the halberd is not thin enough so I used a radiology sheet (don’t know the right word in English) to get into the phone and it was much more effective and time saving. Thank you for the tutorial and good luck !

    Thomas Alliot - Responder

    Use a utility knife blade to work around the edges. Careful not to pry on the blade since you risk cracking the back

    Derek Gibson - Responder

    I bought a back glass replacement kit with the battery kit since mine was cracked already. I used both iOpeners to uniformly heat the whole back along both long edges. I microwaved each pack twice over 10 mins. 5 mins apply, microwave, 5 minutes apply. That worked!

    William Mellema - Responder

    Similar to other posts, this appeared simpler. I have a couple of tube socks filled with rice that we use a lot for a sore back. Put in microwave for 5 minutes and an amazing heat pack. So I thought I would try this instead of the iOpener as it just was not getting the phone warm enough. Wrapped the phone in the riced-filled-tube sock for a couple of minutes, to the point where I could at least pick it up and hold it. Also, I have the full IFIXIT kit, so I pulled out the jimmy. Viola. Got right in and then allowed me to use the halberd and picks to finish it off.

    kendrickcc - Responder

    I was able to do this with the iOpener warming pad by microwaving for the suggested 30secs then leaving it on for 10 mins. repeated this process 2 more times for a total of 3 times @ 30 mins and used the suction tool and the picks to get it open. There is a considerable amount of adhesive on the tops and bottoms of the phone. So consider warming the whole phone before doing it.

    Note: if you already have a cracked back panel (like me) prior to starting the process, consider getting the replacement as the already cracked panel will crack even more as you are cutting away at the adhesive. Goodluck!

    Harry Williams - Responder

    After over an hour of trying to use heat and the suction tool loosen the adhesive and try to get an opening on one of the edges, I used the blue spudger to see if it would slip thru the edge and it did. I was able to loosen the majority of the back glass but ended up getting excited and rushing and cracked the top corner. I was able to complete the battery replacement and use the cracked back glass. I’m going to order a replacement for that and that should be easier. Lesson to be learned, if any part of the back glass is getting a little tougher to loosen, hit it with heat again just to be safe. The rest of the replacement we pretty straight forward.

    MJH - Responder

  7. Once you have the tool firmly inserted into the glass, reheat and reapply the iOpener to soften the adhesive.
    • Once you have the tool firmly inserted into the glass, reheat and reapply the iOpener to soften the adhesive.

    svmesung is onoff and

    moo rayner - Responder

  8. Slide an opening pick or the blade of a Halberd spudger down the side of the phone, separating the adhesive. Go slowly so that the tool doesn't slip out of the seam. If cutting becomes difficult, reheat and reapply the iOpener.
    • Slide an opening pick or the blade of a Halberd spudger down the side of the phone, separating the adhesive.

    • Go slowly so that the tool doesn't slip out of the seam. If cutting becomes difficult, reheat and reapply the iOpener.

  9. Repeat the previous heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone. Leave an opening pick on each side as you continue to the next to prevent the adhesive from resealing. Leave an opening pick on each side as you continue to the next to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
    • Repeat the previous heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone.

    • Leave an opening pick on each side as you continue to the next to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

    Petite erreur: le guide dit iPhone au lieu de S7 :)

    Nicolas Duthilleul - Responder

    Bonjour Nicolas ! Merci pour la remarque ;-) Nous l’avons prise en compte et corrigé la traduction. La prochaine fois, n’hésitez pas à corriger directement en cliquant sur le bouton Traduire en haut à droite de l’étape.

    Claire Rapp -

  10. The fingerprint sensor cable connects the phone to the rear glass near the main camera. The cable is very short and should disconnect as the rear glass is removed. As you lift the glass, peek in to be sure the orange cable with a blue connector has disconnected.
    • The fingerprint sensor cable connects the phone to the rear glass near the main camera. The cable is very short and should disconnect as the rear glass is removed.

    • As you lift the glass, peek in to be sure the orange cable with a blue connector has disconnected.

    • Use the opening picks to slice through any remaining adhesive and open the phone slightly.

    • If the fingerprint sensor cable seems snagged or stays taut do not open the phone any further. Disconnect the connector with the point of a spudger before proceeding.

    • During reassembly, in order to reconnect the fingerprint sensor cable, first angle the back cover into position until the cable connector lines up perfectly over its socket. Then, use the flat end of your spudger to gently snap the connector into place by pressing it straight down.

    • Remove the glass from the phone.

    For reassembly, if the fingerprint scanner is removed from the back cover: it’s much easier to place the fingerprint scanner in the small compartment on the back of the phone, connect it and then finally put the replacement back cover on. The adhesive on the inside of the back cover will get connect to the fingerprint scanner and hold it tightly.

    Brian Hoffmann - Responder

    The NFC antenna and coil assembly might get stick to the back cover due to adhesive spreads while trying to pry the back cover to open the phone. Take a look inside to ensure the assebly has not got sticked. If so, try using a credit card like plastic to get it peeled of from back cover without breaking the assembly always paying attention to the fingerprint sensor as well.

    dcode - Responder

  11. To install a new back cover:
    • To install a new back cover:

    • Use tweezers to peel away any remaining adhesive from the phone's chassis. Then clean the adhesion areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth to prep the surface for the new adhesive.

    • Peel the adhesive backing off of the new rear glass, carefully line up one edge of the glass against the phone chassis, and firmly press the glass onto the phone.

    • Follow this guide to reinstall the old back cover, or to install a back cover without pre-installed adhesive.

    • Be sure to turn on your phone and test your repair before installing new adhesive and resealing the phone.

    • If desired, you may reinstall the back cover without replacing the adhesive. Remove any large chunks of adhesive that might prevent the back cover from sitting down flush. After installation, heat the back cover and apply pressure to secure it. It won't be waterproof, but the glue is usually more than strong enough to hold.

    • You may also need to transfer the camera bezel to your new part. If that's the case, follow our camera bezel replacement guide.

    Bonjour,

    Vous parlez d’ajouter de l’adhésif, comment et où le trouve-t-on cet adhésif ?

    Difficile à appliquer ?

    Cordialement,

    Stéphane

    Steph D - Responder

    Mille excuses, je viens de voir les “adhesive strips” :)

    Steph D - Responder

    I broke the rear glass trying to get all the adhesive off! Be very careful!!

    jimhunz - Responder

    Be careful with the NFC Antenna/Charging Coil Assembly. It’s covered in a black wrapping that can look like adhesive. Don’t scratch too hard with the spudger, the wrapping will come off!

    Michael M - Responder

    Hello, I appreciate that tuto, very detailed for a somewhat subtle job . Is it possible to use one of the 7000 or 8000 glues in place of the adhesive Stickers ? Thanks

    Isaac OLEG - Responder

  12. Remove eleven 3.7 mm screws.
    • Remove eleven 3.7 mm screws.

    Are all the screws the same size? I do not have a way to organize every little screw and part of this phone.

    Gavin Clark - Responder

    Hi Gavin, all the screws in this step are 3.7 mm long, so you can safely swap these screws with one another.

    Adam O'Camb -

  13. Remove the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly. Remove the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly.
    • Remove the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly.

    I had to pry off the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly from the back cover. The adhesive probably spread a little bit while prying around the phone sticking some part of the NCF antenna and coild assembly sticked to the back cover. I had to use a credit card like pice of plastic to get it unsticked from the back cover without bearking it.

    dcode - Responder

    This doesn’t really cover the last step of removing the NFC antenna/charge coil pad from the upper removable frame segment. Those two components separate and the new one adheres back onto that upper frame section. While its fairly self explanatory, it would be nice to have an illustration of that separation.

    JPagel - Responder

  14. Remove three 3.7 mm Phillips #000 screws.
    • Remove three 3.7 mm Phillips #000 screws.

  15. Remove the loudspeaker assembly.
    • Remove the loudspeaker assembly.

  16. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector.

  17. Apply some high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol under each corner of the battery and allow it to penetrate for several minutes to help weaken the adhesive.
    • Apply some high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol under each corner of the battery and allow it to penetrate for several minutes to help weaken the adhesive.

    • The battery adhesive is designed to be loosened with isopropyl alcohol.

    • Alternatively, prepare an iOpener and apply it directly to the battery for at least two minutes. Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed.

    Thankyou so much for the Isopropyl Alcohol trick!! This have really helped me :) Learn something new every day.

    ainsnic - Responder

    Great tip - Especially as mid-pandemic, we have 85% Isopropyl in the house!

    sean.donnellan - Responder

    If you use isopropyl alcohol remember it will do water damage and destroy your phone if the liquid gets on components! It does dissolve the adhesive used to stick the battery in place, but it’s not safe to come into contact with other (very nearby) parts of your phone!

    Nate Lately - Responder

    Hi Nate! It is actually pretty safe to use high concentration isopropyl (over 90%) alcohol during repairs—the liquid is not very conductive, evaporates quickly, and does not leave a residue. High concentration IPA is often used for board cleaning during manufacturing/repair processes. IPA is also used to clean and displace water for water-damaged devices.

    Arthur Shi -

  18. Use an opening pick to pry up the battery from the bottom. You will be prying against the case directly above the daughterboard and antenna cables. Pry carefully to avoid damaging either of these components.
    • Use an opening pick to pry up the battery from the bottom.

    • You will be prying against the case directly above the daughterboard and antenna cables. Pry carefully to avoid damaging either of these components.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener repeatedly to further soften the adhesive. The adhesive is tough and it may take a few tries to get the pick started under the battery.

    • Try your best not to deform the battery during this process. Soft-shell lithium-ion batteries can leak dangerous chemicals, catch fire, or even explode if damaged. Do not use excessive force or pry at the battery with metal tools.

    Very frustrating process. Not a kit problem, but the folks at Samsung must be a sadistic bunch to use so much adhesive to glue in a battery, No success removing yet after numerous reheatings. Cracked back cover, so proceeding with additional caution due to batter location. Cracked board below the battery would be a disaster.

    Bruce Ward - Responder

    Success in removing the battery after about 7 reheatings. To reassemble, I had to remove the fingerprint sensor in order to fasten the circuit back to the board. Wasn’t a big deal. Reused the cracked back cover since I always use a protective cover and waterproofing isn’t an issue for me.

    Overall, I’m satisfied with the kit and the instructions. I just must have been too aggressive when dislodging the adhesive from the back cover.

    Bruce Ward - Responder

    If you have removed the front glass already, the process is a lot simpler. You can take a hair dryer and use it close to the back of the battery for just a few seconds, then use a combination of dental floss and the opening pick to pry the battery out.

    Damien - Responder

    I could not get a good angle with the pick to pry out the battery. I used the angled tweezers instead, although you need to be very careful not to puncture the battery. I inserted one tong of the tweezers along the bottom edge. I aligned the tweezer tip so it was flat against the front of the phone, parallel to the battery. Then I twisted the tweezers so the tip of the tong slipped under the battery. And I pulled the tweezers away from the front, continuing to twist the tip to keep it under the battery as I pulled the battery away from the adhesive. That worked quite well.

    Derek Snell - Responder

    The dental floss trick works! So much easier to ‘floss’ out the battery than risking puncturing the battery.

    Wong Kee Wee - Responder

    Another vote for just prying up with tweezers. Be careful not to puncture, but it works fine and is quick.

    William Mellema - Responder

    This was quite easy for me, compared to the experience of others. I heated the iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, which brought it up to about 165 degrees F. I let it sit on the battery just like the directions indicated, for about 15 minutes. I tried to pry the battery up with an opening pick, but no dice. I reheated the iOpener for another 30 seconds, and it came out at about 192 degrees F, due to it being heated only about 15 minutes before. I let it sit for another 10 minutes on the battery or so. Then was able to work an opening pick under the battery from the bottom side of the phone, as indicated in the directions. It did require some force and sort of working the pick back and forth, but it went right under, and then I was able to pull it out the rest of the way with my fingers. Total time to remove the battery was about 30 minutes, including time spent heating the battery with the iOpener.

    Dennis - Responder

    I was hesitatant to use my blowdryer to soften the glue behind the battery. So instead, I tried prying it open with the screwdriver (delivered in the tool kit) and punctured it in the proces. STUPID ME. There was smoke and a funny smell. Also the battery heated up. Luckily no flames or bloating up. I freaked out, went outside with the phone and battery still attached. I left it there for the night. The next morning I found this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkQcmLVu.... It shows you how to remove the daughterboard. This frees up space on the top left corner of the battery. With the spudger you can get under the battery more easily. After this the battery removal was easy. Even without using a blowdryer.

    Bryan Atmopawiro - Responder

    Agree with what Damien said. If you have the screen off, it’s much easier to remove the battery from the other side (screen side). Just use the iOpener directly on the adhesive and slide a pick in very carefully. Seems like the floss tip is pretty useful, wish I had read this beforehand!

    Michael M - Responder

  19. Slide the opening pick up the side of the battery to break apart remaining adhesive. Lift the battery out of the case. Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.
    • Slide the opening pick up the side of the battery to break apart remaining adhesive.

    • Lift the battery out of the case.

    • Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

    • To install a new battery and adhesive, follow this guide.

Conclusão

After reapplying adhesive, follow these instructions in reverse order to reassemble your device.

After completing this guide, calibrate your newly-installed battery.

129 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Adam O'Camb

Membro desde: 11/04/2015

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Who are these geniuses that engineer a cell phone that requires complicated surgery in order to replace a faulty or dead battery? Really? And this POS costs the yuppified zombies how much?

Joseph Kennedy - Responder

Mate, check a term “planned obsolescence” on wikipedia. Even if 1/50 of people won't replace a battery but buy a new Samsung, it is a 1 extra cellphone sold. It was designed on purpose hard to remove.

Slavomir -

to make phone sistant and if you take how much thinks are in new phones of course they are complicated its same as new cars sorry but new technology is more sophisticated

denisek2110 -

Mine was stolen, it would be gone forever if they were able to pull out battery right away. But since I was calling and sending “play alert" commands through find my phone server, thieves were tired of it and left it on a sidewalk wrapped in paper and a t-shirt.

sen-q -

What type of adhesive do you use to stick the phone back

Good Survey - Responder

Hi! In our store you’ll find a rear cover adhesive strip for the S8. In the event that that’s sold out, we recommend using Tesa Tape—the 2 mm width should work well for this repair.

Adam O'Camb -

How complicated compared to my old S4 … what a joke

mofla39 - Responder

This was wild. I hope I don’t have to use this knowledge for awhile. Why doesn’t Samsung just tell you to send it back and they will fix it for the price of a new battery? If I pay $800-$1,000 for a phone that I can’t change the battery on after a year or two, I’m going to be !#^&@@ at Samsung. Should we all complain to them about making this service available or having them advertise the lack of battery changing before a customer buys it?

mtrman94 - Responder

that’s the issue. Like Apple, Samsung want you to buy another new phone every year instead of replace the battery.

ANTHONY CAETON - Responder

This process did NOT work for me. I purchased the kit and spare battery thinking it would be as easy as the video shows. However, after multiple attempts and several different hot pads later, the cover did not budge AT ALL. Now, I’m stuck with a kit that didn’t work and a battery (not even a Samsung replacement battery like the site stated), and nothing to show for it. Not being able to replace any battery in any electrical device on your own is just a poor engineering letdown, especially in such an expensive phone.

Michael Pakosta - Responder

There are versions of phones with waterproof battery compartments and certainly they could maintain their ability to control waterproofing the product of they still redesigned the access to the back cover via a more robust removable rear cover with gasket.

But with rear main cover more secure with screws possibly?

I'm not going to spell out how to tell them to make their phones, but maybe they might consider how users want to have the ability to change the battery themselves, and maintain the control of the device without sending it to a repair site for some time period.

Think of all the professional customers, besides all the soccer moms, students and retirees who they might dismiss right away.

Military & Government Officials, maybe even Senior Company Executives and tech companies that use these for everything from email and texting to secure encrypted NSA stuff.

Make it so they can be field repaired with a fresh battery seems like a no brainer?

That's my 2 cents!

Michael McGarghan - Responder

Hello All,

I went through the comments and two of them caught my attention.

1. Will the phone still be water resistant after this ?

Thanks

aperret - 01/01/2018

I could not see a reply to this question.

2. Just ordered the battery, but curious if anyone has any feedback in terms of reliability and if they get the same battery life out of a single charge versus the original.

Jacob Fulbright - April 9

Is anyone able to provide some feedback?

Thank you

Bogdan

bgdn.soare - Responder

Thanks for the questions!

1. In theory the phone could still be water resistant, but I definitely wouldn’t expect that unless it was repaired by a professional—even then I’d still be pretty careful. In my experience it’s really easy to compromise ingress protections during a repair, so I generally just assume that my repairs are no longer up to the same water resistance standards as they were before.

2. We test our batteries to make sure they’re up to OE standards. If you aren’t getting close to the same life as you were with your original battery, contact our support team.

Good luck with your repair!

Adam O'Camb -

Replaced battery and a severely cracked back panel for a total of about $70 (750 NOK).

Less hassle and much cheaper than getting a new phone.

The glue holding down the battery is easily softened with some isopropyl alcohol.

A little warning: The NFC Antenna and Charging Coil Assembly has a rubbery feel to it. This substance does NOT like isopropyl alcohol and will disintegrate if you accidentally get some on there. It shouldn’t really matter much, but better keep the alcohol away from it.

Hans Marius Dalen - Responder

After heating up the adhesive to the battery, it is a lot easier to go from the top where the battery connection is with your halberd spudger and just push it under the battery until it releases. Took me 2 minutes to heat up the adhesive then maybe 10 seconds to remove the battery from the case using the sponger. Also i gave up on the iopener and started using a hair dryer, worked way better.

mike howell - Responder

There is a lot of adhesive on the back cover at the bottom of the S8, it goes about 1.5” up - its a lot of area to get through. Go very easy and make sure the adhesive is well softened with heat. You can go deep under the cover with whatever thin plastic tool you are using to separate the cover since theres nothing to damage in the area - but if you go too fast or pry too hard here the cover will break.

Aftermarket covers are very cheap (likely not gorilla glass), so it may just be better to be prepared to replace it if your original plan was to only replace the battery.

Paul G - Responder

After an hour of iOpener’ing and suction cupping I now have a completely shattered back glass piece.

Picks, halbread, none of the tools included were thin enough, or strong enough to get into the seam opening. Further pulling on the suction cup shattered the entire back glass.

Waste of $80.

Bob Peachey - Responder

Hi Bob,

I’m really sorry to hear about your repair! The back glass for Samsung devices are notoriously difficult to remove due to the adhesive. At this point, you got past the hardest part of the repair! The fix is still salvageable with a replacement back glass, which can be found for a reasonable price.

Arthur Shi -

The iOpener works surprisingly well. It does involve patience, I think I applied it a good 4 or 5 times at least to get the adhesive to give way. It was confusing where to put the new adhesive and I had to remove part of a piece around the camera in order to allow the fingerprint sensor to reattach. It would be nice if it were more clear where the adhesive went, nonetheless, I firmly believe that this is a good kit and I only broke one of the 6 picks. Definitely a moderate fix, but possible with some patience. It took me about 3-4 hours total with breaks. I spent a LOT of time using alcohol, picks and the spudger in order to remove the old adhesive. It did not matter that much in the end though.

MarBor - Responder

I had no issues using the iOpener, though full disclosure the back of my S8 had almost completely separated from the body due to a ballooning battery, hence the reason for this repair.

Replacing the battery on the S8 takes waaaaay longer than the 20 minutes - 1 hour indicated. Start to finish it took me about 6 hours. Scraping off the old adhesive is incredibly tedious and time consuming. Additionally, lining up the new adhesive just right is very tricky, as you only get one shot at it. Once it’s on there’s no adjusting it. That plus the many trips back and forth to the microwave with the iOpener really adds up.

I spent an entire Sunday afternoon replacing my battery, but the result was perfect so I guess I can’t complain.

Dennis - Responder

The battery in my Samsung Galaxy S8 is swollen and the back cover has popped almost all the way off. I used a guitar pick to carefully pry the rest of the back cover off. Now I am just waiting for my ifixit battery replacement kit to arrive. I was computer repair technician for many years earlier in my career, so I understand the delicate nature of these kind of repairs. My question is, while I know I should proceed with extreme caution due to the swollen battery, should I avoid using heat (applying the iOpener) to the battery to soften the glue? Seems like applying heat to a swollen battery is very dangerous. Should I use the alcohol method instead?

Mark Malone - Responder

Yes, for your safety, avoid using heat if the battery is swollen. Use alcohol and plenty of patience/care. Rather than prying, see if you can slip a piece of floss underneath the battery to gently separate it. See ++What to do with a swollen battery++

Jeff Suovanen -

Lösen des hinteren Glases nach dieser Anleitung nicht möglich. Man kommt nicht an die inneren Klebestreifen und das Glas bricht. Jetzt habe ich einen neuen Akkug aber eine komplett gesprungene Rückseite trotz mehrfahchem erwärmen und sehr vorsichtig sein. Sehr enttäuschend, davon habe ich mir mehr erwartet!

Patrick Leitl - Responder

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