Introdução

Use this guide to replace the battery in your Nexus 6P smartphone. When reassembling apply new adhesive where it is necessary.

It is possible to remove the back cover with an iOpener as seen in this guide but it's a lengthy and difficult procedure. We recommend a heat gun or something similar. The adhesive in the Nexus 6P is extremely sticky and especially the glass and plastic cover on the backside break or bend most of the time whilst doing this repair.
  • It is possible to remove the back cover with an iOpener as seen in this guide but it's a lengthy and difficult procedure. We recommend a heat gun or something similar. The adhesive in the Nexus 6P is extremely sticky and especially the glass and plastic cover on the backside break or bend most of the time whilst doing this repair.

  • Use a SIM card eject tool, to pop out and remove the SIM card tray.

  • Use an iOpener to loosen the adhesive underneath the small plastic cover at the bottom of the phone.

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The knife is really sharp. Take care, not to cut yourself or your phone.
  • The knife is really sharp. Take care, not to cut yourself or your phone.

  • Insert a knife between the phone and the plastic cover. Pry up the plastic cover until you can insert an opening pick.

  • Slide the opening pick underneath the plastic cover to cut the adhesive.

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  • Use an iOpener to loosen the adhesive underneath the glass cover at the top of the phone.

  • Insert a knife between the phone and the glass cover. Pry up the glass cover until you can insert an opening pick.

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  • Glass may break. Wear protective glasses and protective gloves.

  • Slide the opening pick underneath the glass cover and use it to cut the adhesive underneath.

  • Pry off the glass cover.

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  • Use tweezers to remove the liquid indicator stickers.

  • Remove the six Philipps #000 screws.

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  • Insert a razor knife between the metal back cover and the front glass to create a gap. Insert an opening pick into the gap and slide it to the top right corner.

    • The knife is really sharp, be careful, not to cut yourself or your phone.

  • Insert a second opening pick and slide it to the top left corner.

  • Slide the opening picks along the edges to seperate the plastic clips, holding back cover and midframe together.

  • Remove the rear cover.

There is a black plastic band around the front glass. So stick the razor between the metal back and outside of the black plastic that is around the front glass. If you look closely at the first picture you can see the black plastic strip outside of the front glass. If you stick it between the black plastic and screen you could leave the mid frame in the metal case and only lift up the the glass and screen.

igolten - Responder

  • Unscrew the Philipps #000 screw.

  • Use tweezers to remove the metal plate.

While I performed this step, the three ribbon cables from the next step came up attached to the metal plate.

Troy Gaddis - Responder

As a head’s up the metal plate needs to be removed from the left side first because it does slide under another piece of metal close to the fingerprint scanner. Upon reassembly insert the right side first and then push the left side down. You will know if you have it in correctly if the plate cannot move freely if the screw is in even a little bit.

Michael Stefanchik - Responder

There is glue on the underside of metal plate that made it a little harder to pull up the plate than we expected. The flex cables did not come up with the plate, but it was a surprise.

Catherine Adams - Responder

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the three flex cables.

While I was performing this, the three flat ribbon cables were stuck to the metal plate and came up with it. Watch out for that possibility.

Troy Gaddis - Responder

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the interconnect cable from the daughterboard.

  • Use an iOpener to loosen the adhesive under the battery.

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  • Warning: do not insert the spudger or plastic card too deep underneath the battery. The display cable runs underneath the battery.

    • Scroll down to the next step to see where the cable is.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger as deep as the notch and carefully slide along the edge to cut the adhesive…

  • Use a plastic card to cut the remaining adhesive on the left side underneath the battery.

The display cable seems to be completely attached to backing, not free to move at all. The warning made me think it would be floating between the battery and the back of the battery area, however this is not the case. You shouldn’t need to worry too much about it, but you also don’t need to stick anything that deep since the adhesive isn’t where the display cable is. You can see where the adhesive is in the picture for the next step. It’s the black sort of rectangular-ish pad to the right of the display cable. There’s a second taller adhesive pad on the left side of the display cable which must’ve stuck to the battery when they removed it for this guide. When I took the battery out both of the adhesive pads stayed attached to the battery.

Cory Miller - Responder

Thanks, Cory. This is exactly what we saw, too!

Catherine Adams -

  • Remove the battery.

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Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. When reassembling your phone apply new adhesive where it is necessary.

52 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Dominik Schnabelrauch

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In case anyone is wondering, I was able to get the two small back covers to reassemble without using new adhesive. I didn’t have any on hand so I just used a heat gun to warm the adhesive that was left over and firmly held them in place. So far it seems to be holding well.

Vince Cipriani - Responder

Adhesive? I’m wondering what kind of adhesive to use for reassembly?

antoine courtemanche - Responder

Didn’t need any additional adhesive and the iopener worked fine for both loosening adhesive for disassembly and getting it sticky again for reassembly.. Managed not to break the glass camera cover!

antoine courtemanche -

any tips on using the iOpener for the top glass? It dosen’t seem to be helping me at all. :(

Ellison Gregg - Responder

These were great instructions, but have to admit this was quite a hair-raising process because of the amount of heat that was required to soften the adhesive and the amount of force needed to pry things apart. Luckily, I have a digital hot air source (Sparkfun 303D) used for surface mount electronics. The safe temperature ended up being about 200 F. If I did it again would be much easier because I know the glass piece at the top is not as fragile as I thought. So, heat gun, definitely. iOpener would be next to useless, especially to loosen under battery. But be careful not to concentrate the heat and melt plastic or make glass crack. Adhesive under battery definitely reusable, easy to peel off old battery. Go slow with the whole process and it will be successful!

Andris Vizulis - Responder

I did mine today. Besides a couple scuffs that are covered by a bumper it is like new again.

My tips: when removing the back glued on parts start at the ends, not middle and use a lot of heat. Mine came up really easy once it got to temp. The case was harder than if thought. I started near the lower speaker. The obvious looking place to pry up is wrong, the outside case lip is very thin and it's easy to try digging up the screen, not the case. Getting the battery out just required a bit more force than I would have thought. But it's all back together and works like new again.

Ed Willson - Responder

Thanks! Wasn’t too bad of a process, but I was expecting the worst. Getting the battery out was the hardest part in my opinion because it was hard to get the glue in that area soft enough.

Tyler Young - Responder

I am happy to report that I was able to do this repair successfully. The hardest parts were removing the glass back (covering the camera) and prying the outside case away from the rest of the phone unit. I definitely purchased the “Technicians Razor Set'“ and am glad I did. I used all the tools listed in the guide (most of which I had earlier from a larger kit). I used the blade that is a rectangle that has a sloping / graded end so that it is real thin at the point of entry and allows you to pry a bit. I tried with the standard “exacto-knife” type end but it didn’t seem to do the trick for me plus I felt it was dangerous to push with force with something that sharp.

Use a heat gun. If you have a hair dryer that gets pretty hot that might work as well. A cheap heat gun makes this SOO much easier. I also happened to have one of those laser surface temperature readers and got the glass up to about 180 Fahrenheit which works well. I got the plastic bottom piece to about 150 to get the glue underneath gooey.

Troy Gaddis - Responder

Great guide; detailed and helpful! Just replaced the battery! Great pictures, too, as it really helped me understand the layout of the internals. I bought the battery from ifixit and the essential electronics toolkit that they sell as well. I honestly don’t think I could have done it without that essential electronics toolkit. I certainly don’t have some of those bits and tools on hand.

Good:

I was able to successfully remove the top part (the glass part) without breaking it. I did reuse it again. I noticed the tiny foam circle that surrounds the camera. If you purchase a replacement glass top part like I did (for the possibility of breaking it when removing it), you may find that the foam circle is a little offset. You also may need to remove the existing foam circle if your replacement glass top has one already attached.

Bad:

The battery’s adhesive is very strong. You will have to work hard to pry the battery off, so don’t panic. Keep at it, little by little.

Michael Sokol - Responder

Successfully completed the battery replacement guide. We were able to complete the entire replacement process with the iOpener, but it was slow. We used an infrared thermometer to measure the surface temperature of the iOpener and the phone, to ensure we were reaching an optimal temperature (about 150F for the plastic cover, 180F for the glass cover, and 145F for the battery).

The battery was slow to remove due to adhesive; be patient. We bent the battery slightly in the process. The image in the guide showing the phone with the battery removed (the image in Step 11) shows a black glue strip to the right of the display cable. When we removed the battery, we saw two black glue strips; one on each side of the display cable.

Catherine Adams - Responder

Great guide! I was sure to ruin something at step 6, but everything works perfectly fine. Great guide!

I only have the Pro Tech Toolkit, and only needed a knife. For the iOpener i had a plastic bag in boiling water. It seemed to do the trick for me (filled up a bag with some water an put it in a kettle with more water. When it boiled, wipe off water from the outside of the plastic bag.

Knut Berg-Domås - Responder

Ich habe meinen Akku gestern getauscht, war eigentlich nicht besonders schwierig mit dieser tollen Anleitung.

Wichtig ist den Kleber mit Wärme zu lösen, dann geht’s recht einfach. Habe dafür einen Heißluftfön auf kleiner Stufe genommen.

Beim “heraushebeln” der Platine muß man schauen wo man die Klinge einführt, ich war anfangs einen Millimeter zu weit innen und somit ließ es sich schlecht hebeln weil ich quasi im Platinenteil war.

Beim Zusammenbau habe ich die beiden Abdeckungen oben und unten nur wieder festgedrückt und dann nochmal ein wenig erwärmt, dadurch mußte ich keinen neuen Kleber verwenden.

Dirk Heimann - Responder

I managed to damage both the top and bottom back pieces (steps 2 & 4). Fortunately, Amazon sells replacements. Got them on order now. The rest of the repair went fine, though. 6P is reassembled and charging.

Steve DeGroof - Responder

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