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Trouble starting snow blower each winter

I have a 2 stage 24 inch electric start. It is about 5 years old. Although each winter it has been difficult to start, this year seemed hopeless, in spite of Stabil added to the high octane gas. First, the starter motor balked, but tapping lightly with a hammer while starting worked (you can remove, open up and sand the corroded parts lightly and it will work!).

It is an incredible pain to get at the choke. There is no air filter, so no need for an access, and the air intake needs to be shielded from snow, so although reasonable, the design makes it no fun to get unto the carb,.

I called our small engine repair shop. No help. BUT, if you look under the black enclosure, you will see a steel tube hanging down with a 10 mm bolt. Turn off the gas flow from the tank to the carburetor. Then, If you remove the small bolt and pump the primer bulb, you will drain the carburetor cup, where water and old gas can be the cause of the non-start. Then replace the bolt, turn on the flow, and with luck you will be able to start the unit. This was from a Youtube clip, and it saved our hide!

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I encountered a few of these at a small engine repair shop I worked at. The main thing for winterizing (or in this case summer-izing) that is storing them between seasons is to cut fuel flow and run the blower until it dies. This will starve the carburetor and prevent water build up and the fuel from turning to varnish. In my experience even with Stabil added it can be hard to start the next season and we recommended to our customers to simply drain the fuel system for storage. Fuel these days has so much ethanol added even with higher octanes I've have seen it start to turn to varnish within weeks and even high octane no ethanol blends are not recommended to be used after 3 months unless sealed (per STIHL guidelines). The reason is that the fuel can absorb moisture and build up water when exposed to the atmosphere and even a sealed tank can obtain moisture through heating and cooling cycles if it is stored in a garage, shed or warehouse.

The best bet if these steps weren't followed is to just drain the fuel system and start with all new fuel at the beginning of winter. If troubles persist a carburetor cleaning may be required.

As for having to tap the starting motor it may have loose connections or be going out. I had to replace a handful of them as moisture from the snow or vibration can start knocking things loose or corroding connections, something to keep in mind if it keeps giving you trouble.

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Great comments, Ken. This is at a distant lakeside cabin. I have switched to an Ego battery unit at home and love avoiding carb cleaning. At the cabin, this sits on a covered deck from fall to spring. Being a cheapskate I hate to waste gas, but I have learned my lesson. My best bet, likely, is to use this same procedure to drain the tank in the spring and use the gas for other machines. Thanks for chiming in. Dave

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