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Kenmore is a popular appliance brand commonly sold by Sears, but Sears does not manufacture any of the appliances themselves. Instead, they source that out and have other manufacturers make their appliances for them. Kenmore refrigerators are made by a variety of different manufacturers including LG, Electrolux, GE, and Whirlpool.

Refrigerator keeps tripping circuit breaker... even the new one. Help

We have a Kenmore side-by-side fridge (model 106.55546402) that will run and cool for several hours but then trips the circuit breaker. This is an at least 14 year old unit but has run very well for all those years.

The compressor runs nice and quietly, cooling fan runs well, coils are cleaned, put a "3n1" start/run capacitor in it, topped off refrigerant (really didn't need it), and replaced the 20amp GFCI circuit breaker with new one (old one was 20 years old. Note, I'm aware that it is generally recommended for refrigerators and freezers to be on "ordinary" circuit breakers, but the outlet is the only one available for the placement of the refrigerator. Actually, the new breaker is dual function CAF GFI). And it still does the same thing. It takes more than five hours for the refrigerator side to go from room temperature to about 45F -- the lowest temp that the fridge side has attained before tripping breaker (as much as 12+ hours run time). But it will begin making ice within a couple of hours in the freezer side. It has tripped the breaker within about 3 hours but last night it ran for at least 14 hours before tripping breaker.

Of interest: I have noticed that along the "leading/opening edge" of the door (refrigerator side) gets very warm from time to time; but, I don't think there is any electrical wiring in that door. Also, the door edge didn't seem to get (as) hot yesterday/last night.

My guess is that the compressor is just going bad and the resistance is causing the issue... BUT, I am open to suggestions if anyone knows anything else that might be a simple, i.e., cheap, fix.

I also posted about this in the forums to an old thread that is very similar but didn't know if threads that old got seen as much. Hope that's ok. Any input is greatly appreciated.

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Hi @rongham

Does the compressor feel hot to the touch when the breaker has tripped?

Usually if the windings are breaking down heat is generated as the resistance is less or they may even short out to the rotor i.e earth.

If it isn't getting hot but is just warm then it may be OK.

How long is the refrigerator off for, before the breaker is reset. You said 5 hours+ from room temperature to 45°F. Why is it at room temperature, does it warm up very quickly? The breaker tripping and the refrigerator not getting cold enough may be related

Check if the evaporator unit behind a panel inside the freezer compartment is covered in ice indicating a defrost problem. If the ice isn't defrosted off the unit regularly as controlled by the defrost timer then the build up of ice especially on the evaporator fan affects the cooling efficiency, more so in the refrigerator compartment as the cool air is blown there by the fan. Access to the evap unit is via the door at the front to remove the panel.

When the compressor is running check if you can hear if the evap fan (inside the freezer compartment) is also running. It should stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. The compressor will keep running when the door is opened though.

If there is an ice build up check if the defrost heater under the evap unit is OK. Just a thought on this is if the defrost heater is shorting out to earth then when the refrigerator defrost timer starts the defrost cycle then this could trip the breaker as the heater operates on 120V AC.

Not sure but given the times you say the refrigerator runs before the breaker trips it could be that your model has an accumulated run time type of defrost timer and not a fixed time defrost timer e.g. operates after say 10 hours of accumulated compressor run time as opposed to 10 straight elapsed hours compressor running or not. This is evident as the compressor will run less often overnight as the ambient temp is cooler and also there's less normal user activity so the doors aren't opened as often so less cold air which needs to be replaced will be lost.

Also have you checked if the refrigerator door seals are all OK? Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb and then with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling the paper out. It will come out with a bit of effort but not that easily and it should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides. Also make sure that the door alignment is OK i.e. straight and parallel to the cabinet in case it is a hinge problem.

Just some thoughts.

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