jayeff

Hi @taylortravis , Here’s a link to the tech sheet, for the refrigerator. Use the diagnostics as described to test if the FC (freezer compartment) thermistor and the FC evaporator fan are both OK, (see Service tests 1 & 3). The thermistor’s resistance value is dependent on the temperature in the compartment and the control board uses the value to know what the temperature is, to determine whether to keep cooling or not and the evaporator fan pushes the cold air through the freezer compartment. If the fan is not working properly check if it is iced up. If so then there is a defrost problem. Hopefully a start.

Hi @jfab If there is no power at all on the dishwasher then looking at the dishwasher’s [documento: tech sheet], there is a thermal fuse, part #4 Control panel and latch parts diagram in the main power supply path to the control board, that may be worth checking. Here’s an image from the tech sheet wiring diagram showing the fuse (shown as “non resettable bi- metal”) connected to the active input lead. (click on image to enlarge for better viewing). If the fuse is OK check the control board for any obvious component damage

Hi, You may be out of luck. Looking at the hardware maintenance manual for the laptop, the touchscreen is integrated with the LCD panel. It cannot be individually replaced. Go to p.42 to view the necessary pre-requisite steps and then the procedure to remove the LCD panel The part number for a complete display assembly i.e. touchscreen + LCD panel is 5D10S39587. Search online using the part number only to find suppliers that suit you best.

Hi @mobilityki , Your washer has a Child Lock option but I think that this won’t stop the machine from being turned off at the machine or the power outlet, merely from being turned on or the programs from being altered whilst the machine is operating. Here’s an image taken from the user manual (scroll down the page to find the download link) that shows how to enable and disable it. (click on image to enlarge for better viewing)

Hi, Try the following: Turn off the TV if on and then disconnect the power from the TV. Remove the back cover from the TV and then disconnect the cable between the power board and the mainboard, at the power board end. Reconnect the power to the TV. The TV backlights should turn on full intensity and stay on. There will be no images or audio because the mainboard is disconnected. If the backlights blink or don’t turn on , then there is a problem with either the power board or the backlights. Use a DMM to measure the LED voltage on the power board LED power connector between the LED+ve pins and an earth point (screw head of screw holding board to chassis). If you measure a steady >220V DC then there is a problem with the LED backlights or the connection to them. If you measure <70V DC then there is a problem on the power board. If the backlights turn on and stay on, measure all the voltages on the power board’s mainboard cable connector (where the cable has been temporarily disconnected from to do this...

Hi, I think that the fuse is shown best in the 4th image from the bottom. Here’s a zoomed in image of what I think is the fuse. (click on image to enlarge for better viewing) It says 1A (Ampere) 135° C and also has a designation of F5001 (F=Fuse). There is no mention of the fuse’s voltage rating but it is the current rating that matters as long as the voltage rating is the same or higher than the supply voltage. If it is a fuse then if you have an Ohmmeter you can check if it is OK or not. A good test = short circuit. If it is blown then finding a replacement may be hard as it says on the board risk of fire, replace only with same type and rating of fuse.

Hi @pdet , I don’t know whether or not it is cheaply repairable as far as parts go but here’s the maintenance and service guide for a HP Pavilion 15-eh0000 series laptop, which may help. It gives information on what tools are requires to disassemble the laptop and the necessary pre-requisite steps and procedures to remove all the individual components. It also has an illustrated parts list so that if a replacement part is required you can search online using the part number only to find suppliers and you will know that it is the correct one.

Hi @Keith Turner, That late in the cycle I’m wondering if there is a problem with the heater. It may be the start of the drying cycle and I think that the heater is turned on to ensure good drying, but I may be wrong about this. ;-) It could also be a faulty thermistor (or sensor), part #25 pump and motor parts diagram but this is less likely I think as it monitors the water temp at the start of the wash as well. But maybe still worth checking. The tech sheet gives the details - see Note 2 diagnostic cycle time chart notes Try running the diagnostics using the [documento: Tech Sheet - 8537797 - Rev C] for the dishwasher and see if you get any error codes. (see p.2 bottom right side) Hopefully this may be of some help.

Hi @leej Seems as though the recovery partition may have been corrupted as well as the boot partition. Try using a Win 10 recovery USB and see if that fixes it. A Win 10 recovery drive can be created from any known working Win 10 computer. All you need is a 8GB USB flashdrive and 40-60 minutes of time. In the host computer go to Control Panel > Recovery > Create a recovery drive and follow the prompts. To get to Control Panel, type Control Panel in the Windows search box on the desktop and then click on the app that appears. When you have the USB recovery drive, start the laptop and get into BIOS. You didn’t state the model number so you may have to check how to get into BIOS for your model. When in BIOS change the Boot order to USB as the first boot option and also enable Legacy USB or CSM (not sure what you will have), save the changes, plug in the USB into the laptop and restart the laptop. It should boot from the USB drive into the Windows Recovery Environment menus. Once there go to Troubleshoot >...

Hi @tom97 , That’s a MOV (metal oxide varister) or surge suppressor if you like. (the board designation for the component is MOV1). It protects the equipment from overcurrent situations by shunting it away, but if you apply too much voltage (assume you plugged 240V into it) then it will blow as this is too much The hard part will be to get the correct value replacement. Maybe try very gently to see if there are any component markings left on the side of the MOV closest to the C14 capacitor that it is next to. Do not touch it with your fingers as sometimes they rub off easily. If there is nothing left then here’s a link that may help to get you out of trouble. You could try the MOVs as suggested and see how it goes. Hopefully there is nothing else amiss and it is only the MOV that failed It’s just a matter of unsoldering and removing the old and soldering in the new. They are not polarity dependent. The worst that could happen is that it blows again but I assume that you will have the coffee maker connected...

The 3rd wire from a battery is usually connected to a thermistor attached to the battery which signals the temperature (resistance value changes with temp) to the battery management circuit in the motherboard.

Charging will be halted to if it got too hot before being fully charged, which may create problems e.g. a fire

If leaving the 3rd wire disconnected, the battery should not be left unsupervised whilst it is charging

Hi @captainsnowball ,

FYI

voilà French exclamation - meaning “There it is!” or “There you are!”

The “red thing” in Step 3 is most probably an IR filter, to filter out visible light to improve IR operation