How to Troubleshoot a GE Dryer Not Starting

Have a multimeter, a screwdriver with a quarter inch hex head, and a Phillips driver ready.

Turn the knob while listening for a distinct clicking or grinding sound.

Remove the knob to check if the plastic insert or timer shaft is cracked or stripped.

Replace the knob or timer if either is physically broken and stuck in the off position.

Gently pry the start button from the dryer console using a small flat tool.

Inspect for cracks or damage that could prevent the switch from engaging.

Press the switch manually to see if the dryer motor activates.

Open the dryer door and press the door switch closed with tape or your finger.

Manually rotate the drum counterclockwise while holding the start button.

Suspect a bad motor if it only starts turning with manual drum rotation.

Check if the dryer runs only when the start switch is held in place.

Suspect a faulty belt switch or motor centrifugal switch if it cannot stay running.

Position the dryer so the back panel is reachable with room to work.

Use a quarter inch hex head driver to remove the screw from the small panel where the cord enters.

Open the panel and inspect the terminal block for loose connections or burn marks.

Measure from center to left terminal then center to right, both should be near 120 V.

Check across left and right terminals, expecting at least 208 V total.

Reset the dryer breaker in the main panel off then on if the voltage reads incorrectly.

Suspect a faulty outlet or cord if the voltage is still out of range.

Set the multimeter to ohms or continuity with the dryer still accessible at the rear.

Place meter leads on each side of the fuse terminals and look for a near zero reading.

Suspect a blown fuse if you see no continuity and replace it accordingly.

Remove two quarter inch screws on each side of the plastic control unit.

Remove four screws on the metal backing and slide the panel up and outward.

Detach the green grounding screw near the console to free the assembly.

Set the multimeter to ohms or continuity and attach leads to red and brown switch wires.

Press the start button from the front while watching for a near zero ohms reading.

Suspect a bad switch if there is no continuity when pressed.

Set the timer to a heat cycle and check continuity on the relevant contacts per the schematic.

Remove a wire if needed for an accurate test and look for near zero ohms.

Test the resistor value expecting around 4500 ohms if the schematic indicates its presence.

Take out two screws from the top rear corners of the dryer chassis beneath the console.

Remove two front screws near the dryer door opening using a Phillips screwdriver.

Release the top by prying gently and tilt it up for drum and belt inspection.

Unhook the front panel by removing two hex head screws at the dryer sides.

Locate the idler pulley behind the blower housing and pull it towards the motor to release tension.

Slide the belt off the motor pulley and let the pulley rest on the small metal tab if present.

Lift the drum by the belt and guide it through the front opening at the correct angle.

Use a vacuum or flexible cleaning tool to remove lint and debris from the chassis.

Clear any blockages around the motor or blower housing that could prevent rotation.

Suspect clogged lint if a safety fuse blew, causing the dryer not to start.

Set the multimeter to ohms and disconnect one wire from the thermostat spade terminal.

Expect near zero ohms for the large terminals and about 9000 ohms on the small sensor terminals.

Remove a wire and measure each fuse on the heater assembly with the multimeter.

Look for near zero ohms for both the safety fuse and high limit thermostat.

Replace them if you get an open line or no continuity reading.

Unhook one spade terminal from the belt switch and attach meter leads to each switch contact.

Move the idler pulley until you hear a click and see continuity on the meter.

Suspect a bad switch if no reading occurs when the pulley is pulled into place.

Press the locking tab on the right side of the door switch and push it out from the front.

Note the three-wire design that separates the door light circuit from the motor circuit.

Use a multimeter on the appropriate terminals to see if pressing the switch closes the circuit.

Align the replacement switch with the opening and slide it into place until it snaps.

Reattach any metal backing pieces that may have come loose behind the switch.

Confirm that pressing the switch now shows continuity on the correct terminals.

Lift the drum into the dryer, aligning the rear bearing with the housing at the back.

Route the belt around the motor pulley and idler pulley while releasing spring tension.

Rotate the drum by hand to check for free movement and correct pulley engagement.

Set the door bottom on the three metal fingers and pivot it upright against the dryer front.

Ensure the drum front lip and metal tabs on the chassis align before reinstalling screws.

Insert the two short quarter inch hex head screws at the top left and right to lock the panel.

Attach the top panel at the front edge and snap it down firmly onto both corners.

Restore power and run a test cycle to confirm proper rotation and heating.

Listen for unusual noises or friction that might indicate misalignment.

Secure the two long screws at the top corners of the front door panel to finish the enclosure.

Reinsert the rear screws on left and right sides of the chassis behind the console.

Align the console tabs into place and reinstall the metal backing and ground screw.

Tighten the final two top hex head screws to lock the console against the metal top.