It's usually dirty battery terminals (usually negative), or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts (use a Q-Tip and get the positive ones inside for good measure as well) with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the bare cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to the repair cost to replace a damaged front panel. The donors often have THE SAME PROBLEM!)
+
It's usually dirty battery terminals (usually negative), or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts (use a Q-Tip and get the positive ones inside for good measure as well) with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works). That may be enough to fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol.
-
If that doesn't work, try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails.
+
If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover. The issue there is you end up having to find a donor camera due to the high cost of the parts on what is a common commodity P&S camera, which kills the economics of the repair. ***''I had to abandon my SX150IS due to the repair cost to replace a damaged front panel, and donors often have THE SAME PROBLEM!''***
+
+
If that doesn't work, try better batteries. My general recommendation for devices like this is the Panasonic Eleloop Pros. They’re pricey but are designed for this type of application, but are cheaper than primary lithiums. However they aren’t as good with regard to runtime.
[quote]
***EOL WARNING: THE CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS IS IT TENDS TO POINT TO A BOARD FAILURE AT THE COMPONENT LEVEL WHEN NOTHING ELSE HELPS :-(! Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while.***
-
***This fix is to get a bit more time out of a dying camera that is confirmed to have a terminal failure which cannot be repaired economically. DO NOT USE IT FOR NE CRITICAL SHOOTS IF THIS IS THE ONLY SOLUTION THAT HELPS! Enjoy the extra time, and say goodbye to the camera when it completely fails. You may want a new one alongside the failing Canon.***
+
***This fix is to get a bit more time out of a dying camera that is confirmed to have a terminal failure which cannot be repaired economically. DO NOT USE IT FOR NE CRITICAL SHOOTS IF THIS IS THE ONLY SOLUTION THAT HELPS! Enjoy the extra time, and say goodbye to the camera when it completely fails. You may want to have a new one alongside the failing camera in case it kicks completely.***
***The specific issue is the main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues with power management, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras.***
-
***These kinds of problems are why the "AA" camera is dead; it's all about 6V Li-On rechargeable batteries today because they don't suddenly have hard failures like this where nothing can be done economically. At least with the modern ones which did away with this fatal failure point found on the 150/160, I can recycle the battery and probably revive the camera with a new battery!***
+
***These kinds of problems are why the "AA" battery camera is dead; it's all about 6V Li-On rechargeable batteries today because they don't suddenly have hard failures like this where nothing can be done economically. At least with the modern ones which did away with this fatal failure point found on the 150/160, I can recycle the battery and probably revive the camera with a new battery!***
It's usually dirty battery terminals (usually negative), or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts (use a Q-Tip and get the positive ones inside for good measure as well) with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the bare cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well due to a broken case, and the parts cameras having the SAME PROBLEM!).
+
It's usually dirty battery terminals (usually negative), or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts (use a Q-Tip and get the positive ones inside for good measure as well) with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the bare cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to the repair cost to replace a damaged front panel. The donors often have THE SAME PROBLEM!)
If that doesn't work, try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails.
[quote]
***EOL WARNING: THE CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS IS IT TENDS TO POINT TO A BOARD FAILURE AT THE COMPONENT LEVEL WHEN NOTHING ELSE HELPS :-(! Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while.***
***This fix is to get a bit more time out of a dying camera that is confirmed to have a terminal failure which cannot be repaired economically. DO NOT USE IT FOR NE CRITICAL SHOOTS IF THIS IS THE ONLY SOLUTION THAT HELPS! Enjoy the extra time, and say goodbye to the camera when it completely fails. You may want a new one alongside the failing Canon.***
***The specific issue is the main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues with power management, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras.***
***These kinds of problems are why the "AA" camera is dead; it's all about 6V Li-On rechargeable batteries today because they don't suddenly have hard failures like this where nothing can be done economically. At least with the modern ones which did away with this fatal failure point found on the 150/160, I can recycle the battery and probably revive the camera with a new battery!***
It's usually dirty battery terminals (usually negative), or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts (use a Q-Tip and get the positive ones inside for good measure as well) with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the bare cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well due to a broken case, and the parts cameras having the SAME PROBLEM!).
-
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails*.
+
If that doesn't work, try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails.
[quote]
-
* ***This is required reading. EOL WARNING: THE CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS IS IT TENDS TO POINT TO A BOARD FAILURE AT THE COMPONENT LEVEL WHEN NOTHING ELSE HELPS :-(! Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while.***
+
***EOL WARNING: THE CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS IS IT TENDS TO POINT TO A BOARD FAILURE AT THE COMPONENT LEVEL WHEN NOTHING ELSE HELPS :-(! Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while.***
+
***This fix is to get a bit more time out of a dying camera that is confirmed to have a terminal failure which cannot be repaired economically. DO NOT USE IT FOR NE CRITICAL SHOOTS IF THIS IS THE ONLY SOLUTION THAT HELPS! Enjoy the extra time, and say goodbye to the camera when it completely fails. You may want a new one alongside the failing Canon.***
***The specific issue is the main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues with power management, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras.***
***These kinds of problems are why the "AA" camera is dead; it's all about 6V Li-On rechargeable batteries today because they don't suddenly have hard failures like this where nothing can be done economically. At least with the modern ones which did away with this fatal failure point found on the 150/160, I can recycle the battery and probably revive the camera with a new battery!***
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts (use a Q-Tip and get the positive ones inside for good measure as well) with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the bare cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well due to a broken case, and the parts cameras having the SAME PROBLEM!).
+
It's usually dirty battery terminals (usually negative), or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts (use a Q-Tip and get the positive ones inside for good measure as well) with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the bare cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well due to a broken case, and the parts cameras having the SAME PROBLEM!).
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails*.
[quote]
* ***This is required reading. EOL WARNING: THE CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS IS IT TENDS TO POINT TO A BOARD FAILURE AT THE COMPONENT LEVEL WHEN NOTHING ELSE HELPS :-(! Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while.***
***This fix is to get a bit more time out of a dying camera that is confirmed to have a terminal failure which cannot be repaired economically. DO NOT USE IT FOR NE CRITICAL SHOOTS IF THIS IS THE ONLY SOLUTION THAT HELPS! Enjoy the extra time, and say goodbye to the camera when it completely fails. You may want a new one alongside the failing Canon.***
***The specific issue is the main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues with power management, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras.***
***These kinds of problems are why the "AA" camera is dead; it's all about 6V Li-On rechargeable batteries today because they don't suddenly have hard failures like this where nothing can be done economically. At least with the modern ones which did away with this fatal failure point found on the 150/160, I can recycle the battery and probably revive the camera with a new battery!***
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts (use a Q-Tip and get the positive ones inside for good measure as well) with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the bare cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well due to a broken case, and the parts cameras having the SAME PROBLEM!).
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails*.
[quote]
* ***This is required reading. EOL WARNING: THE CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS IS IT TENDS TO POINT TO A BOARD FAILURE AT THE COMPONENT LEVEL WHEN NOTHING ELSE HELPS :-(! Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while.***
***This fix is to get a bit more time out of a dying camera that is confirmed to have a terminal failure which cannot be repaired economically. DO NOT USE IT FOR NE CRITICAL SHOOTS IF THIS IS THE ONLY SOLUTION THAT HELPS! Enjoy the extra time, and say goodbye to the camera when it completely fails. You may want a new one alongside the failing Canon.***
-
***The specific issue is the main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues with power management, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras. These kinds of problems are why the "AA" camera is dead; it's all about 6V Li-On rechargeable batteries today because they don't suddenly have hard failures like this where nothing can be done economically. At least with the modern ones which did away with this fatal failure point found on the 150/160, I can recycle the battery and probably revive the camera.***
+
***The specific issue is the main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues with power management, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras.***
+
+
***These kinds of problems are why the "AA" camera is dead; it's all about 6V Li-On rechargeable batteries today because they don't suddenly have hard failures like this where nothing can be done economically. At least with the modern ones which did away with this fatal failure point found on the 150/160, I can recycle the battery and probably revive the camera with a new battery!***
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts (use a Q-Tip and get the positive ones inside for good measure as well) with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the bare cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well due to a broken case, and the parts cameras having the SAME PROBLEM!).
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails*.
[quote]
* ***This is required reading. EOL WARNING: THE CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS IS IT TENDS TO POINT TO A BOARD FAILURE AT THE COMPONENT LEVEL WHEN NOTHING ELSE HELPS :-(! Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while.***
-
***This fix is to get a bit more time out of a dying camera that is confirmed to have a terminal failure which cannot be repaired economically. DO NOT USE IT FOR ANY CRITICAL SHOOTS IF THIS IS THE ONLY SOLUTION THAT HELPS! Enjoy the extra time and say goodbye to the camera when it completely fails. You may want a new one alongside the failing Canon.***
+
***This fix is to get a bit more time out of a dying camera that is confirmed to have a terminal failure which cannot be repaired economically. DO NOT USE IT FOR NE CRITICAL SHOOTS IF THIS IS THE ONLY SOLUTION THAT HELPS! Enjoy the extra time, and say goodbye to the camera when it completely fails. You may want a new one alongside the failing Canon.***
-
***The specific issue is the main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues with power management, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras.***
+
***The specific issue is the main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues with power management, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras. These kinds of problems are why the "AA" camera is dead; it's all about 6V Li-On rechargeable batteries today because they don't suddenly have hard failures like this where nothing can be done economically. At least with the modern ones which did away with this fatal failure point found on the 150/160, I can recycle the battery and probably revive the camera.***
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts (use a Q-Tip and get the positive ones inside for good measure as well) with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the bare cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well due to a broken case, and the parts cameras having the SAME PROBLEM!).
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails*.
[quote]
* ***This is required reading. EOL WARNING: THE CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS IS IT TENDS TO POINT TO A BOARD FAILURE AT THE COMPONENT LEVEL WHEN NOTHING ELSE HELPS :-(! Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while.***
-
***This fix is to get a bit more time out of a dying camera that is confirmed to have a terminal failure which cannot be repaired economically. DO NOT USE IT FOR NE CRITICAL SHOOTS IF THIS IS THE ONLY SOLUTION THAT HELPS! Enjoy the extra time, and say goodbye to the camera when it completely fails. You may want a new one alongside the failing Canon.***
+
***This fix is to get a bit more time out of a dying camera that is confirmed to have a terminal failure which cannot be repaired economically. DO NOT USE IT FOR ANY CRITICAL SHOOTS IF THIS IS THE ONLY SOLUTION THAT HELPS! Enjoy the extra time and say goodbye to the camera when it completely fails. You may want a new one alongside the failing Canon.***
***The specific issue is the main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues with power management, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras.***
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts (use a Q-Tip and get the positive ones inside for good measure as well) with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the bare cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well due to a broken case, and the parts cameras having the SAME PROBLEM!).
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails*.
[quote]
* ***This is required reading. EOL WARNING: THE CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS IS IT TENDS TO POINT TO A BOARD FAILURE AT THE COMPONENT LEVEL WHEN NOTHING ELSE HELPS :-(! Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while.***
-
***This fix is to get a bit more time out of a camera that is confirmed to be on "borrowed time", not a permanent solution. It can fail for good at any time; don't rely on it for critical shoots!***
+
***This fix is to get a bit more time out of a dying camera that is confirmed to have a terminal failure which cannot be repaired economically. DO NOT USE IT FOR NE CRITICAL SHOOTS IF THIS IS THE ONLY SOLUTION THAT HELPS! Enjoy the extra time, and say goodbye to the camera when it completely fails. You may want a new one alongside the failing Canon.***
-
***Enjoy the lifetime extension while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping. You may want a new one alongside the failing Canon. The main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras.***
+
***The specific issue is the main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues with power management, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras.***
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts (use a Q-Tip and get the positive ones inside for good measure as well) with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the bare cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well due to a broken case, and the parts cameras having the SAME PROBLEM!).
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails*.
[quote]
-
****This is required reading. EOL WARNING: THE CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS IS IT TENDS TO POINT TO A BOARD FAILURE AT THE COMPONENT LEVEL WHEN NOTHING ELSE HELPS :-(! Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while.***
-
+
* ***This is required reading. EOL WARNING: THE CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS IS IT TENDS TO POINT TO A BOARD FAILURE AT THE COMPONENT LEVEL WHEN NOTHING ELSE HELPS :-(! Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while.***
***This fix is to get a bit more time out of a camera that is confirmed to be on "borrowed time", not a permanent solution. It can fail for good at any time; don't rely on it for critical shoots!***
-
***Enjoy the lifetime extension while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping. Don't rely on this camera for a critical photo session if the camera is internally degrading like this, you may want a new one alongside the failing Canon. The main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras.***
+
***Enjoy the lifetime extension while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping. You may want a new one alongside the failing Canon. The main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras.***
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the bare cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well due to a broken case, and the parts cameras having the SAME PROBLEM!).
+
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts (use a Q-Tip and get the positive ones inside for good measure as well) with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the bare cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well due to a broken case, and the parts cameras having the SAME PROBLEM!).
-
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails.
+
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails*.
-
***WARNING: THERE IS A CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS! When it refuses all but the Ultimate Lithium batteries, the cameras are slowly dying internally, and it REQUIRES THE EXTRA INITIAL CHARGE TO FUNCTION :-(. Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while. You're buying time, not a permanent solution. Enjoy it while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping. Don't rely on this camera for a critical photo session if the camera is internally degrading like this, you may want a new one alongside the failing Canon. The main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras.***
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[quote]
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****This is required reading. EOL WARNING: THE CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS IS IT TENDS TO POINT TO A BOARD FAILURE AT THE COMPONENT LEVEL WHEN NOTHING ELSE HELPS :-(! Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while.***
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***This fix is to get a bit more time out of a camera that is confirmed to be on "borrowed time", not a permanent solution. It can fail for good at any time; don't rely on it for critical shoots!***
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***Enjoy the lifetime extension while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping. Don't rely on this camera for a critical photo session if the camera is internally degrading like this, you may want a new one alongside the failing Canon. The main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras.***
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well).
+
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the bare cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well due to a broken case, and the parts cameras having the SAME PROBLEM!).
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails.
***WARNING: THERE IS A CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS! When it refuses all but the Ultimate Lithium batteries, the cameras are slowly dying internally, and it REQUIRES THE EXTRA INITIAL CHARGE TO FUNCTION :-(. Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while. You're buying time, not a permanent solution. Enjoy it while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping. Don't rely on this camera for a critical photo session if the camera is internally degrading like this, you may want a new one alongside the failing Canon. The main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras.***
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well).
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails.
-
***WARNING: THERE IS A CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS! When it refuses all but the Ultimate Lithium batteries, the cameras are slowly dying internally, and it REQUIRES THE EXTRA INITIAL CHARGE TO FUNCTION :-(. Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while. You're buying time, not a permanent solution. Enjoy it while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping. Don't rely on this camera for a critical photo session if the camera is internally degrading like this, you may want a new one alongside the failing Canon.***
+
***WARNING: THERE IS A CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS! When it refuses all but the Ultimate Lithium batteries, the cameras are slowly dying internally, and it REQUIRES THE EXTRA INITIAL CHARGE TO FUNCTION :-(. Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while. You're buying time, not a permanent solution. Enjoy it while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping. Don't rely on this camera for a critical photo session if the camera is internally degrading like this, you may want a new one alongside the failing Canon. The main board in these cameras are beginning to have component level issues, and the time required to properly repair the fault costs more in time and labor then it costs to replace the cameras.***
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well).
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails.
-
***WARNING: THERE IS A CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS! When it refuses all but the Ultimate Lithium batteries, the cameras are slowly dying internally, and it REQUIRES THE EXTRA INITIAL CHARGE TO FUNCTION :-(. You're buying time, not a permanent solution. Enjoy it while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping. Don't rely on this camera for a critical photo session if the camera is internally degrading like this, you may want a new one alongside the failing Canon.***
+
***WARNING: THERE IS A CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS! When it refuses all but the Ultimate Lithium batteries, the cameras are slowly dying internally, and it REQUIRES THE EXTRA INITIAL CHARGE TO FUNCTION :-(. Save the "dead" cells, as they will run other devices for a while. You're buying time, not a permanent solution. Enjoy it while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping. Don't rely on this camera for a critical photo session if the camera is internally degrading like this, you may want a new one alongside the failing Canon.***
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well).
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails.
-
***WARNING: THERE IS A CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS! When it refuses all but the Ultimate Lithium batteries, the cameras are slowly dying internally, and it REQUIRES THE EXTRA INITIAL CHARGE TO FUNCTION :-(. You're buying time, not a permanent solution. Enjoy it while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping.***
+
***WARNING: THERE IS A CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS! When it refuses all but the Ultimate Lithium batteries, the cameras are slowly dying internally, and it REQUIRES THE EXTRA INITIAL CHARGE TO FUNCTION :-(. You're buying time, not a permanent solution. Enjoy it while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping. Don't rely on this camera for a critical photo session if the camera is internally degrading like this, you may want a new one alongside the failing Canon.***
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well).
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If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Energizer Ultimate Lithium. I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails.
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If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Panasonic Eleloop Pro first and see if it rejects them. If it does, you may want to try the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (primary Lithium, $$). I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails.
***WARNING: THERE IS A CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS! When it refuses all but the Ultimate Lithium batteries, the cameras are slowly dying internally, and it REQUIRES THE EXTRA INITIAL CHARGE TO FUNCTION :-(. You're buying time, not a permanent solution. Enjoy it while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping.***
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well).
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Energizer Ultimate Lithium. I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails.
-
***WARNING: THERE IS A CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS! When it refuses all but the Ultimate Lithium batteries, the cameras are slowly dying internally :-(. You're buying time, not a permanent solution. Enjoy it while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping.***
+
***WARNING: THERE IS A CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS! When it refuses all but the Ultimate Lithium batteries, the cameras are slowly dying internally, and it REQUIRES THE EXTRA INITIAL CHARGE TO FUNCTION :-(. You're buying time, not a permanent solution. Enjoy it while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping.***
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well).
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Energizer Ultimate Lithium. I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails.
-
***WARNING: THERE IS A CATCH WITH CANON CAMERAS! When it refuses all but the Ultimate Lithium batteries, the cameras are slowly dying internally :-(. You're buying time, not a permanent solution. Enjoy it while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping.***
+
***WARNING: THERE IS A CATCH WITH CANON'S 2X AA BATTERY CAMERAS! When it refuses all but the Ultimate Lithium batteries, the cameras are slowly dying internally :-(. You're buying time, not a permanent solution. Enjoy it while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping.***
It's usually dirty negative terminals, or battery corrosion when this occurs. In most cases it can be repaired by cleaning the contacts with something like isopropyl alcohol (99% preferred, but 97% works) and that can fix it, but if that doesn't help then you need to use something like denatured alcohol. If neither of those works, you need a new battery cover (find a donor camera, the cost of the cover vs these commodity P&S high zoom cameras will kill any chance of doing the repair economically. I had to abandon my SX150IS due to repair cost to fix the damaged battery cover as well).
If that, isn't it try better batteries, like Energizer Ultimate Lithium. I mainly use them in my Maxxum 7000 to mitigate yet another corrosion cleanup from being needed as (relatively) cheap insurance since I may need a new cover the 2nd time since I lost a LOT of the nickel plating. I say relative because it's cheaper to get another body, but you often run into the same corrosion problems. In the end, I'd have a 7000 in need of a cover, plus a replacement 7000 which I need to be careful with. The runtime isn't anything close to a rechargeable cell or even the 2X 3V 123/CR2/2Cr3 6V primary options some early P&S models used, but these will satisfy stubborn cameras when all else fails. You can get a 4 pack for ~$8 and that will solve the issue when all else fails.
***WARNING: THERE IS A CATCH WITH CANON CAMERAS! When it refuses all but the Ultimate Lithium batteries, the cameras are slowly dying internally :-(. You're buying time, not a permanent solution. Enjoy it while it lasts, and part ways with it in the form of selling it for parts when that fix is no longer helping.***