Students: Read this before claiming any of my pages.
If you are part of a student group and claim one of my Device pages or Wikis, please respect these guidelines:
- Only change content that needs to be revised. Leave working content alone.
- If the original content is mostly usable, it's best to do a revision with the original content and formatting preserved as much as possible.
- If any information is removed without replacement, verify it is inaccurate if known by others. If there is not enough time to verify it, please understand I did so personally before including it.
- If you find any content you can't verify but think it needs work (Ex: Information on how to use a certain game controller on PC), revise it in its current form.
- If such content is included, only replace the parts that need replacement - do not remove it or change everything. I've personally tested it and know it to work.
- Do not change the following:
- Non-patrol reputation (This is set high enough to prevent problems for me and established users).
If these guidelines are respected, I do not have a problem with student edits. I know how I handle it is more unconventional then other pages since I will centralize common problems (and their workarounds if I know what to do) to make the information easier to find.
Regarding major changes beyond normal editing: If you are considering a major change, it's best to err on the side of caution and use the existing formatting and replace that section. In most cases, the content is (generally) laid out in such a way that the only requirements are a rewrite on the section that is being changed. In most cases, there is no need to completely rework how I wrote the original content.
CompTIA A+ CE
PC Pro Certification
Marchman Technical School Certificate of Completion
School and Experience
- Sunlake High School (Dual enrollment)
- Graduation: 2014
- Marchman Technical Center
- Graduation: 2014
- Linux (I often have a second dedicated Linux computer)
- Intermediate board level repair and data recovery
- Gaming (Limited to older games without excess DLC and microtransactions; PC only since Xbox One and PS4 launch)
Desmontagens analíticas (teardowns) nas quais trabalhei
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Guias para os quais contribuí
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Guias que Ajudei a Traduzir
Meus guias favoritos
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Is it possible to install the dual input keyboard as-is?I have an E6440 i5-4300M/Intel HD 4600 IGP that needed a new screen* and an SSD. When I got the laptop, it shipped with...
When a high memory application is loaded, the system has video issues**READ: My memory configuration is based on a mixed module pair since the machine shipped with 4GB after the original 8GB...
How worried should I be about hardware damage? (E6220)When I was investigating the possibility of using an E6220 palmrest on an E6230 with a trackpad swap (which required...
Laptop sometimes boots to BIOS (E6220)*Read: I chose the E6230 device page since it is closest to the E6220* This E6220 is the one I use, but I primarily bought...
Where can I purchase factory recovery media/download images? p7-1227cI need the following set for this machine: Windows 7 64 Bit Recovery Kit C4G69AV When I got this computer, the owner...
How can I trick the recovery media into taking a smaller hard drive?I picked this machine up under one condition: Remove the hard drive; take the rest of it with an AMD A10-5700/12GB RAM. I...
(M401n) How can I reload the impression counts?When I was troubleshooting the USB issue after I set it aside, I inadvertantly erased the impression count data when I...
How do I get into maintenance mode with the TI-84 keypad?I got this untested for $18 with an offer, so I do not have a lot invested into this just based on what I paid. However,...
Are the knockoff NiMh batteries any good?One of my two DC970 batteries are at the end of it's life (6.9V/~1.01 A) from the original 18V/1.2Ah. My other battery...
Is it necessary to reset the SMC after an emergency battery swap?My 2012 MBP developed a battery bulge but in this case, I was extremely lucky that it wasn’t severe enough to hinder the...
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Resposta para "bios Post Failure, display comes sometimes no"In my experience with the IGP Haswell Dell Latitudes, the issue is a mixed bag - on the ones where they crammed the i7 MQ/8790M (15” E6540), the GPU is usually bad - they’re cramming 82W of total TDP through ONE fan, so the GPU is usually bad. On the E6440 8690M/i5 M, it’s usually a display issue but the GPU could also be bad. On the i5/Intel HD configuration, typically a bad screen. What I would do first on a machine like this is strip it down to the bare minimum on what is installed based on what is there and what is likely the issue. If it was a no boot issue, I may opt to remove the keyboard and then disconnect any accessories like the trackpad and volume buttons. Once that fails, go for the CMOS battery, press the power button to remove any flea power and let it sit unplugged for 5-10 minutes to get a fresh BIOS to work with. If that doesn’t work, I go for the WiFi/WWAN cards, optical drive and SSD until I get it to boot again. Once it boots, it all goes back in until I know what did it. However, even...
Resposta para "wont start , black screen"Listen to the hard drive for any unusual sounds like headstack clicking or power issues - a lot of laptops struggle to boot when the drive has failed. If you can get it to boot with the drive physically removed, there’s an issue with the hard drive. Thankfully it isn’t hard to get to the hard drive (or RAM) like some of Acer’s other laptops where they bury these components like the E-11/V-11/ES1/E3. Part of the reason so many laptops have problems ignoring a dead hard drive during POST is the BIOS codebase is usually licensed from AMI. Few manufacturers modify it to stop trying to initialize the drive after X number of failed attempts and just let it error out (No boot device). In most cases, they only change the boot splash screen that shows up during POST. Once you’re in the BIOS, they usually use the reference AMI skin unless you have one of the few with a different skin. If removing the hard drive does not help, check and reseat the RAM while you’re in there just to be sure it’s properly connected...
Resposta para "When a high memory application is loaded, the system has video issues"https://youtu.be/nDIwHDydF5I As usual it's another PC port bug.
Resposta para ""Trying to load Windows,but says No Bootable device found""Is the hard drive original or has it been replaced in the past? Toshiba manufactures horrible hard drives and they use them in their own laptops despite the problems. The hard drive is usually first to go in a Toshiba laptop and it always seems to happen within 1.5-2 years. Any time you see one of these with a replacement drive, it either means a DIYer did a precautionary replacement or it died in the hands of a end user. If they’re purchased by DIYers it’s addressed before they leave the bench. We don’t get to find out the drive died in the field - yes, EVEN IF the drive works. Knowing how many of them are an easy fix I’d normally buy them with the dead drive and replace it (especially Haswell ones), but they abused the DMCA. I know they aren’t getting a cent on a used machine, but I don’t want to indirectly support them if I can help it. There are no guides here to do it, but this video details the procedure. Any drive will work, but your best bet is to put an SSD in. These days, 500GB SSDs aren’t much...
Resposta para "(Black Screen of Death with Integrated Graphics disabled) PLEASE HELP"The best way to deal with the BIOS video issue is just to pull the battery and start from ground zero - yes you may need to reconfigure some things, but it will get you into a better state then you are now at least on the firmware end instead of requiring you to tinker with it for hours. The problem is on the 15-p, the way you get to the battery is a proper nightmare since the motherboard needs to be pulled out. This guide is for the hard drive, but AT LEAST you’re halfway to the CMOS battery. The second issue is if this is a SOFTWARE LEVEL device disable, you may need to reinstall Windows if you cannot get in through the normal boot process since you disabled the way in that always works. You may be able to get in through the normal boot process, but I would be ready to do an OS reinstall if you want to hope to get anywhere. To rule out if it’s the hardware once the BIOS works, boot it into Linux or a Windows install DVD - if it was successful, you’ll get an image on the laptop.
Resposta para "easyshare printer printing only half a photo."The first thing I would do in this instance is isolate the printer, since the parts/supply issue is a totally different beast then it used to be. Since you really can’t buy ink for the EasyShare Printer dock series as it’s an Eastman Kodak product, even if you could repair it the market of NOS ink people have left dictates how long you can use it repaired. In addition to being an Eastman era product the new era of Kodak no longer supports, they stopped selling ink/paper packages for these years ago, it’s best to rule out the “unfixable” part first. Try printing the photo on another printer like an inkjet or Canon Selphy and see if it works. If it does, you likely have an issue with the printer. As a last ditch effort, you can try using the cable the camera came with (or buy one) and see if the USB port works*, but chances are there’s a issue with the printer. Since you really can’t get ink anymore outside of whatever is left on sites like eBay, I’d replace the printer and get something like a Canon Selphy...
Resposta para "Disc read error but only right after startup."Original Xbox drives are famously known for DRE issues sadly. I bought 2 for $40 and one of them had a bad drive from the beginning that just wouldn’t work, but the other one was fine (likely Phillips based on the tray). Thompson and Samsung SDG-605 -006 drives are known to have DRE issues more often the other drives used in these consoles. With the original Xbox, you can buy whatever drive you want since they are not paired and Live V1 has been dead since 2010, so if you have a SDG-605 -006 or Thompson it is advisable to buy the Phillips or Hitatchi drive. However, Hitachi drives are rare and expensive, while Phillips ones come at a premium but are easy to find. As far as the Samsungs go, do not bother with the SDG-605 unless you get a good price AND make sure it’s a -005 revision, since these are the better of the two Samsung models. However, these are hard (but not impossible to find) since they work with backup games so well and people drive swap modified consoles. If you need additional information,...
Resposta para "Changing the motherboard can remove iCloud"You actually may be in a better situation then most people. Depending on how much he remembers (or if he can reset the password), he can get the phone working again. If that’s not the case or it actually came from eBay/Craigslist/OfferUp/Mercari, read on. However if you have a proof of purchase from an authorized reseller Apple will remove the lock. Generally speaking, the cost of the boards for iPhones is about as much as a new phone. Since you’re getting a new phone by replacing the board anyway (with the downside of the SIM tray IMEI not matching) you’re usually better off dumping the locked phone online “as-is” to offset the replacement cost, sad to say. The other problem is there are NO GUARANTEES the new board is clear to activate or it isn't hiding a payment plan (which will inevitably be defaulted on and your new board is blacklisted). These issues make it hard to recommend saving these iCloud phones, especially with 2.5 year payment plans. Let's just leave it at he won't forget ever again. Since...
Resposta para "Can it be repaired?"Well technically anything can be repaired, but you can also have a machine that is mechanically totaled. Usually when you need to replace both the screen and palmrest, it tends to be about as much as a new machine. If you need a bottom cover, then it’s usually cheaper to buy a new computer. In this case, the display is $300 and the palmrest runs for $150. For another 2015 13” MBA on eBay, they’re going for anywhere between $500-569 for a 8GB version, so you’re coming very close to replacement cost at $450 in parts, assuming the bottom cover is fine. If that’s dented, add another $70. Usually if it’s just a display issue you’re dangerously close but it often isn’t close enough to economically total it out if your threshold isn’t sensitive to expensive repairs. If you want to try and save this one, you may need to buy a parts machine with power issues (no liquid damage!) and move all of your old parts to the new chassis.
Resposta para "My laptop is stuck on the repair screen"Usually when it sticks on the repair screen for 10-15 minutes, the drive is failing or has failed bad enough it’s half dead and you can at least retrieve the critical data. STOP USING THE LAPTOP AND PUT YOUR DATA ON AN EXTERNAL DRIVE IF IT STILL WORKS! What you really need to do now is buy a new drive locally if possible since it’s usually time sensitive once you see long running automatic repairs that persist. As far as what to get, SSDs are becoming so cheap unless all you can afford is a spinning drive, don’t bother with anything less then an SSD. Once you’ve repalced the drive, you’ll need to reinstall Windows - use the Win8.1 Media Creation Tool to get an image. While you can potentially use a DVD, many of the Aspire E15 SKUs include a dummy drive, so I am going to assume you may have one of those. You can either create a bootable USB drive or get an external DVD drive and write the image to a disc, providing your laptop doesn’t have one. For the replacement of the hard drive, refer to this video.
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