This is all wrong.

What's being done here is tightening the truss rod, which does NOT align the neck. You cannot change the distance between the bridge and the strings.

You do not want to fool with the truss rod unless you understand what it does and how to tell that you're doing it correctly, and this "guide" does not even begin to explain any of that.

STOP! When you buy a new bridge, it is NOWHERE NEAR ready to install on your violin.

Two modifications are absolutely essential before you proceed any further: 1. The feet must be very precisely shaped to match the curvature of the top. 2. The top of the bridge must be cut down so as to hold each string the correct distance from the fingerboard, and from the other strings. (That will assure that the bridge stays in place and doesn't damage the top, and that fingering is possible, but the violin's tone will be dull and muted. It will take more reshaping to address that problem.)

That is NOT "very easy", and will take a lot longer than 15 minutes.

TAKE THAT FIDDLE TO A LUTHIER. Please.

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-ri...

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-ri...

it's possible to change the HDD fan without completely removing either the main board or the power supply. After removing the 4 screws on the PS board, I only had to pull it outward a few mm to remove the plastic wall on the HDD side, which is the part which holds the heat sink (attached to the main board) in place, Once the wires were unplugged from the main board's edges, and the IR board detached from the case front, I was able (with some delicate wiggling) to tilt the board out at the top enough (without unplugging anything from the back side of the board!) to remove the fan. The only tricky bit was getting that one fan screw out, which I managed with a T10 bit fastened to a 1/4" open-end wrench with some masking tape. A little awkward, but it saved a whole lot of disassembly. Somebody probably makes a skinny little ratchet that takes 1/4 hex bits directly, which would have made it easy.

it's possible to change the HDD fan without completely removing either the main board or the power supply. After removing the 4 screws on the PS board, I only had to pull it outward a few mm to remove the plastic wall on the HDD side, which is the part which holds the heat sink (attached to the main board) in place, Once the wires were unplugged from the main board's edges, and the IR board detached from the case front, I was able (with some delicate wiggling) to tilt the board out at the top enough (without unplugging anything from the back side of the board!) to remove the fan. The only tricky bit was getting that one fan screw out, which I managed with a T10 bit fastened to a 1/4" open-end wrench with some masking tape. A little awkward, but it saved a whole lot of disassembly. Somebody probably makes a skinny little ratchet that takes 1/4 hex bits directly, which would have made it easy.