The bolt fix which clamps the heatsinks to the main board is a horrible way to repair your game console. Get it reflowed or reballed using a proper heat compound and repair method and you will get many months of use from it. Use the bolt fix and the unit will no longer be a successful candidate for reflow or reball and the flex will break traces on your board when you send it for repair.

The only way to survive water drop is normally a unit that was off when dropped and completely dried before powering up. Problem comes in due to most units being on and under power when dropped. The first thing you should do after recovering from moisture is to power it off. Then you have to either send out for repair which you can do by packing it in rice or use some of those silica bags you get with a lot of electronics now a days and send out for repair without powering up. Or you need to completely open the unit up and place the pieces out on a piece of paper towel or paper or any non conductive surface - cardboard works well. Then using a hairdryer or something that blows "warm" air not a paint stripper - blow it dry or just enough to warm it up a few times till you can see no more evidence of moisture. Then reassemble and try it out. Electronics and water just really do not mix. It is luck which usually determines the final fate and main boards can suffer various damage issues when in contact with...

Wifi range when affected during a repair or upgraded glass is usually because the wire is disturbed (not tightly connected to the mainboard) or the wire is pinched or broken. The iPhone and iPod usually have a small black wire floating around inside that connects to the board and then runs to another antennae location. Make sure not to disconnect the wire and make sure to reconnect it fully. The connection can be a round ring of metal with the receive wire coming through a tiny pin in the center. If the center pin is not seated all the way back into the connection it will not transmit conrrectly.