It sounds like your rack and pinion is going bad. Sadly, it is a common failure on this generation (2001-2007) Chrysler minivan. Replacing the rack isn't a bad job, but since it would need to be aligned afterwards, you are probably better off taking it to a shop. I'd also recommend calling several shops to get a quote - include a reputable chrysler or dodge dealer in that list. Sometimes the dealer *can* be cheaper.

Let's start with the basics. Check your owner's manual for any fuel supply cut off switch. On Fords, they are often in the trunk of passenger footwell - the location of this will be located in the owner's manual. Once we've ruled that out as a cause, check the fuse for the fuel pump. If the fuse is good and getting voltage (you'll need a test light for this), move on to the fuel pump relay. Test the fuel pump relay by trying another relay in it's place. If this still doesn't fix it, check for power and ground in the harness that plugs into the fuel pump with the test light. If you get power and ground, then you've managed to isolate the issue to the fuel pump.

You may have a filler neck issue. If the issue is more pronounced when you have a full tank and the check engine light is on - that's likely what's going on. The fuel filler neck is a part that is often overlooked until it's gone bad, or a check engine light prevents the car from passing an emissions inspection. (this is generally true for cars made from 1996 onwards). I've seen a fair amount of GM fuel filler necks develop leaks from rust on cars in northern climates over the age of 7. One way to determine is to fill the tank of your car with gas, leave the gas station, and park the car. Then walk around the car sniffing around for the smell. If the smell is worst near the filler door - the neck has a problem. Since the gas tank is right below the rear seat and there are interior drains in the vicinity, it isn't unlikely that the smell could work its way in through there. Or, there could be more corrosion.

It sounds like you have some air in the system. I'm going to assume that the brake fluid has never been flushed, as that is not a common maintenance procedure. BMW, for instance has this as something you do every 24 months to ensure the brake fluid has as little moisture in it as bad. You're going to want to check on how much brake lining you have left. If the pads have more than 4/32" left, you should be fine. Most state inspections require a minimum of 2/32" of lining left, but it's generally not a good idea to let your brakes get that low. Assuming that your brake lining is good and you do not feel any vibrations, I'm leaning with the fluid flush. At minimum, while you get ready to do this process, you can check the condition of your brakes while the wheels are off. You will need the following: Brake Fluid (get whichever DOT specification your car calls for, typically DOT 3, but most German cars call for DOT 4) A jack and jack stands A set of metric and SAE (fractional i.e. 1/2", 3/8", etc.) wrenches...

Most likely what happened is that in the fall, your reed switch/inverter cable got damaged. It's a common issue after a drop - on your iBook, the cable is set up like this - it connects to the logic board on the side facing the floor (assuming computer is in normal use position), goes through the hinge, connects to the inverter, and then runs to the right hand side of the screen. There, on a board will be a glass capsule with two metal pieces inside. There is a vacuum in this chamber - which keeps those metal pieces apart. The magnet on top of your optical drive causes these two pieces to meet and create a circuit, prompting the computer to go to sleep. If you boot off of an OS X install CD - generally the inputs from the reed switch are ignored, but once the OS is installed - it will read the inputs and go to sleep at its earliest opportunity - i.e. after it has booted. From there, if you wake it, it'll go right back to sleep. You need a new reed switch/inverter cable. This repair should be covered in the...

Take a small rubber mallet and tap the key. This is assuming the car is in park (automatic only) or manual transmission. The key should come out without issue. This should be enough to loosen up the parts on the lock cylinder that are binding. You may want to replace the lock cylinder at this point to ensure this doesn't happen again. The ignition lock cylinder is a common failure item on 2000-2004 Ford Focus models. Assuming that your key is not chewed up, go to your local Ford dealer and order a new lock cylinder - you'll need to give them the Vehicle Identification Number so they can key it to your car. This should cost no more than $90. Installing it should take no more than one hour of your time if you take your time and have a couple screw drivers (phillips and slot).