This just a comment more and nothing else, I've experience this issue with the first and 2nd generation of these machines and I was never able to really solve it. There has been a number of avenues explored and tried right from this website and still no "solid" solution found (the advise was sound but not a permanent fix. Now this is what I've been experiencing here for the last few days constantly with no "shutdowns:" Ever since I've attached an external device I experienced shutdowns, while powered up I've attached an external cooling pad (or anything utilizing the USB connections) and/or the power brick and moments later it shuts down. After one restart or two (while nothing was attached) it runs fine and without interruptions of power. So I've tried this method every time I used the Mac and in each instance I had no issues with random shutdowns. Try this, it's what has been (still is) working for me.

Hello there, it's been a while since I've access this site. Allow me to comment on this OLD matter that you had (assuming that you have resolved the matter by now), you know a lot these earlier Macbook pros appear to have this "common issue" that was never fully explained and although there are a lot of other factors that can contribute to the cause (compounding the initial problem) it would serve all users (who have these machines) to ensure that they have NO 3rd party software that the machine sites as a problem (by means thru the system profiler-Logs-Kernel log). Take the time and look thru the listing and see if you can identify any programs there that appears to be a problem, another way is to update all of your programs individually. Macs are very specific with their programs and there are some 3rd party software can give it problems you wouldn't expect and investigating this issue more deeply requires a lot of time and patience, it's not ALWAYS a defective logic board (now yes they can go bad i.e.,...

Hi, after you have tried everything suggested by everyone and you still get NO positive results then the ONLY reasonable thing left is to use a wireless keyboard. If that yields nothing then it would appear that there is a failure somewhere on the logic board itself. You should take it to a an Apple store for a Genius appointment and let them do a free diagnostic test on the entire machine.

Hi, as the last person (Max) said you will need to remove the logic board again. Chances are that there are still some dried stains on that board in different spots (some lighter than others) and you will need to look at it in bright light. Slightly shift that board at different angles under bright light and look for any "trails" of stains, when you find them make sure you wet that small area with alcohol and the immediately scrub it with a rather stiff brush (a small thin tooth brush will do). After that then look at it again to make sure that the stain is completely gone then, look for other stains and then do the same again. This is not a full-proof-error free procedure because some components may have already been affected by the spill (some components are very fragile/sensitive when it comes to liquid spills). The coated electrical thin metal strips on the logic board itself could have already lost some of it's protective coating (which can cause an "ark"resulting in a random shutdown).

Hi, it sounds like there may be a small screw lodged somewhere underneath or behind the push-button bar. I think you can remove that bar after you've removed the top cover. From there you can see if there is anything keeping that press bar from being fully depress.

Hello, May I (if you don't mind) suggest that you take a magnifying glass with a lot of good light and look directly at the very end of the two cables from each unit. What you want to do here is to look at the contact tips at the end of each cable ribbon (don't do a lot of bending with them). If you see where there appears to be a missing contact strip at the end then that will be your problem. The mouse/trackpad will work independently from the keyboard functions. All other suggestions that you've already received are very valid suggestions and like in anything else when trying to solve problems, always start with the simplest one first and then proceed from there. Hope this helps.

I can't speak with certainty on this but my initial feeling is: if you found black tape originally underneath that Airport Extreme Card then I would say go ahead and replace it with the exact same type (there are 2 different types of black tape). Remember, the shinny soft plastic black tape have a very "sticky" adhesive on it and you DON'T want any of that to get into/near any connection points on any part of the logic or I/O board. Black tape serves and an insolation between electrical components, if electrical metal connectors/wires are extremely CLOSE to any metal body ground an "arc" can occur (depending on the voltage that goes thru that component) which can damage some sensitive components and or cause a SHUTDOWN.

Hello, your screen flickering problem will likely be isolated to that LCD cable that attaches to your logic board. As time goes on (in addition to the heat within that compartment) the constant opening and closing of the laptop can cause that LCD cable to develop a "weak" spot in a certain part of the cable. At the connection end to the logic board, the wires that runs into that connector can EASILY break (those wires are VERY thin and cannot stand a whole lot of Up and Down movement or twisting at that end) which in turn will cause a sudden "shutdown" (aka-Hardware failure). Providing that the lower half of your screen was not exposed to any fluid, the concern of a replacement screen should not be a concern. Zero in on that LCD cable, that is where I would start and most likely your problem will END there.

Hello, I would like to suggest to you to get another ribbon for your entire top case cover. Chances are that there is a "BREAK" somewhere within that ribbon cable (most likely right at the connector head). These type of cables can only stand so much bending, if you keep bending it up (as in removing the top case cover a lot) you can cause a break at critical points on that cable. You can go to EBAY and purchase a use one for a minimal price since it is not a highly sought after item. Update: Hi, you can obtain that ribbon cable on ebay, the cost will not be that much at all since it's not a "HIGH" selling item but you will find some there. Now in "jumping" that cable to see if it is shorted, well I would not attempt to do that due to the possibility of creating another problem elsewhere in that electrical circuit. It's worth the wait.

Hey there, you can try this. The electrical connector on the back of the fan switch gets really hot because of the high current that flows across those internal contacts and through that switch. Remove that electrical connector and look to see if any of the plastic housing has melted, if that area is ok then you MUST replace that fan control switch because it is made of PLASTIC on the inside and the contact plates inside that switch have become loose (NOTHING WILL RATTLE THAT YOU CAN HEAR). Even though the switch feels fine it is NOT, you must replace that switch. The big problem you will have is COST from the dealership because they do not replace just that switch, instead they will tell you that you have to buy that entire "Environmental Control Panel." That is the only way you will get another one unless you find one from the junk yard thats in good shape (and that is hard to tell just by looking at it).