Intriguing problem...Difficult to diagnose without being there, but I'll take a shot. Here's what I would do if I came to your house to fix it... (1) Be sure the ice maker is turned on at the refrigerator's control panel. (sorry...I had to ask!) (2) You say it has water, but be sure there is sufficient water pressure and flow right where the supply connects to the fill solenoid. The supply for ice makers is often soft copper, which could have gotten pinched or bent during your recent moving of the unit such that water flow is restricted. (3) Check that the wires are connected, and there is voltage, at the fill solenoid when the ice maker calls for water. If so, be sure the solenoid is working. It should click when voltage is applied. More advanced...you can apply 110 VAC directly to the solenoid to test it. Disconnect the wires to the refrigerator first. Be very careful here...arcs, sparks, damage, and possible shock if you don't know what you're doing. Don't try it if you're not sure. (4) Lastly, it's...

You say water is coming out…how much? Perhaps it’s not enough to drive the arms around, as they are driven by water squirting out of the holes. If the water flow from the pump is partially blocked, that could be it. Clean the filters at the bottom of the machine. Also be sure the arms are not blocked by some object hanging down below the racks. This has happened to me a couple of times. Arms turn easily by hand when door is open, but closing the door moves something or other that then impacts the wash arms.

Does the phone have a mute button? It should reset after hanging up the call, but see if it might be stuck. I assume this happens with both handsets, correct? That renders the mute button idea a long shot, but have a look. Also, does the base station have a mute button? If that's on, that could cause this. Otherwise it sounds like the base station has the problem, and it's probably difficult or impossible to fix.

Unfortunately it sounds like you probably broke a connection in the handset, or maybe the circuit board. Very difficult to find and fix. If you are into it, take the case apart and look carefully under high magnification at everything inside for visible signs of damage. Take the battery out first. If you are even more into it, get a can of freeze spray and a heat gun and shoot the freeze spray at various parts of the circuits inside and see if you can get it to make the noise. Also heat it (carefully!) with the heat gun (or hair dryer) and listen for the noise. Using this technique you might be able to find the area that has been damaged. Then look very closely and see if you can find it. Thing is, once you have found it, you will have to do some micro surgery to fix it. What, exactly, that is, depends on the nature of the damage. You might have to glue the board back together, and resolder joints that were broken.

If you really have a refrigerant leak, you will most likely not be able to repair it yourself. I had that problem in my SubZero. The tech came out and put a new evaporator unit in the refrigerator part, then evacuated and recharged the system. All that required some specialized tools and knowledge. So, what, exactly, are your symptoms?

Is there a light dimmer somewhere in your house that is partially on? Or full on sometimes causes this problem. Try turning all dimmers off, if you have them. My pedal steel is very sensitive to this problem.

If it is the GFI unit, you could just replace it with a normal hardware store plug. But first, know what the GFI unit is for. These very handy devices come in several kinds, and all of them operate on the same basic principle. It looks at current going out, and coming back, to the wall receptacle. If those two measurements are essentially the same, it stays on. If they differ by even a small amount, it turns itself off and requires you to push the reset button, which will not turn it back on if the fault remains. It assumes the extra current is going through someone's body, and is about to electrocute them. So, if you replace the factory GFI plug on your dryer, know that you have eliminated a safety device. This become critical around water sources, such as bathroom sinks and showers, because wet skin conducts electricity quite well. A good practice when using electrical devices around water is to only use one hand...don't touch the dryer while touching the faucet. If you always use this practice you will...

You definitely need a trap. The trap prevents sewer gas from entering the house. The vent provides a vacuum breaker that prevents water from being siphoned out of the trap when you use the shower. The only exception to this is if your shower is on a greywater system of some sort, and not connected to a sewer or septic system. From the pictures it looks like the vent is the nearest pipe, and the brass pipe is the drain pipe from the tub, both main and overflow. Can you dig into the material in the bottom of the square hole and gain enough room for a trap? Maybe borrow a small jackhammer if it's concrete or other hard material? It looks like there would be enough room if you did that. The cast iron trap is larger than the new one you would use (probably ABS). Or you can fashion one out of flexible rubber 90 degree bends, in a pinch. Not the best way, though, as that would create rough spots for hair to get caught in.

Sorry to possibly be insulting to your intelligence, but are you absolutely sure you have the correct propellers in the correct places? I got one wrong once, even though I thought I was getting it right, and the machine did a nose dive right at takeoff.

All air conditioning units' evaporator coils (the one that gets cold) get wet from water vapor condensing on them, like a cold beer on a hot day. The more humid the air, the more condensation there will be, and it will need to drain. I don't know the Dakota specifically, but I will bet there is a condensation drain below your evaporator coil that is clogged. It will be a tube that is supposed to drain underneath the vehicle. If you can find it from either underneath the vehicle or under the dash, clean it out with a piece of wire (carefully!) or other such implement and all should be well. Question...after you have driven awhile, and you park your truck, is there ever a puddle of water under it? If so, the drain is only partially clogged, and you can find the drain by looking directly above the puddle. If not, it will be more difficult to find, but not impossible. Good luck!