Introdução
Apple has paired a couple of assemblies to the logic board, presumably for security purposes to ensure that Face ID can't be hacked. Therefore it is impossible for the do-it-yourself repairer to replace any of those three parts and still have Face ID work.
The only thing an average person can do outside of taking the phone to Apple for repair is to replace all three parts together with ones salvaged from an original phone. Here's what's needed:
- Logic Board
- Front Facing Camera Assembly (Paired to that logic board)
- Proximity Sensor / Earphone Assembly (Paired to that logic board)
That being said, there are other repairs that can be made if Face ID stops working, but they generally require skill in microsoldering; not something just anyone can do. For example, the flex cable that connects the front camera to the logic board can get damaged and it is possible to replace it; it's just that it's very difficult without precise equipment and a particular set of skills.
This guide will step you through replacing the three paired components from a damaged phone into a new phone.
O que você precisa
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Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located near the side button on the edge of the iPhone.
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Press firmly to eject the tray.
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Skip the next three steps.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
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Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
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Three 1.1 mm screws
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One 3.1 mm screw
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One 3.7 mm screw
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Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
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Remove the 1.2 mm Y000 screw on the back of the display assembly, near the infrared camera port.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.
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Carefully slide the flat edge of your spudger underneath the flex cable below the microphone.
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Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.
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If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.
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If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below.
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If the white diffuser strip detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier.
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Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic Engine and speaker:
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Two Y000 1.9 mm screws
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One Y000 1.2 mm screw
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One Y000 1.6 mm screw
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One Phillips 2.4 mm screw
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One Phillips 1.7 mm screw
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One Phillips 1.5 mm screw
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Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the side edge of the battery.
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To increase your odds of success:
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Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
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Keep the strips flat and unwrinkled as you pull.
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Pull very slowly, giving the strip time to stretch and separate. It takes around 15-30 seconds of stretching to remove each strip.
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Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag along the bottom edge of the battery.
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If a strip does break off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, move on to the other strips and then continue with the additional steps below.
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If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
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Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.
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Wrap the ends of the string around a cloth (or wear gloves) to protect your fingers.
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Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion all along the length of the battery to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.
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Using the flat end of a spudger, disconnect the three front camera assembly cables:
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The dot projector.
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The front camera.
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The infrared camera.
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Disconnect the following cable connectors.
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The WiFi Antenna connector.
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The Wide-Angle Camera connector.
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The Power Button / Flash / Microphone connector.
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The Telephoto Camera connector.
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The Dock Flex connector.
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The Button / Wireless Charging connector.
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The Cellular Antenna connector.
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Disconnect the Power Button / Flash / Microphone cable connector.
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Disconnect the Dock Flex cable connector.
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Bend the cable 90 degrees straight up to allow clearance to remove the logic board.
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Disconnect the Button / Wireless Charging cable connector.
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Disconnect the Cellular Antenna cable connector.
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Bend the cable out of the way.
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When the SIM card is ejected, a pin slides out from the frame and pushes on the eject lever in the SIM card carrier. The pin needs to be pushed back into the frame so it will not block the removal of the logic board.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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4 comentários
this is bad... basically just buy another phone. why make such a useless guide?
Well, just because it's not worth it to you doesn't mean someone else doesn't find it valuable. There are at least eight other people who have used this guide to replace their motherboard and the other parts needed to keep Face ID working, so obviously it's not useless to everyone.
If I change the upper screen speakers can my face if start working back cause the one that is there before is not working again
It may be a language issue, but I am not completely clear about what you are asking.
The upper speaker is attached to the earpiece speaker assembly that also has the flood illuminator, which is part of the Face ID system. That same assembly also contains a microphone and proximity sensor, but only the flood illuminator is required for Face ID to work.
So as long as you have the original flood illuminator, the other parts of that assembly can be replaced, given a technician with sufficient skills and equipment. The earpiece speaker is held on with just two solder points and is relatively easy to replace, but the other components require microsoldering skills.
So as long as you have the original earpiece speaker assembly, Face ID should work. If you replace the entire assembly, you will lose Face ID. You can, however, replace just the speaker itself as long as you keep the rest of the original assembly.
iPhone X Earpiece Speaker Replacement Without Losing Face ID
