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iPhone 8 Plus Taptic Engine Replacement

Escrito Por: Jeff Suovanen (e 3 outros contribuidores)
  • Comentários: 27
  • Favoritos: 2
  • Execuções: 16

Dificuldade

Moderado

Passos

29

Tempo necessário

1 hora

Partes

6

Sinalizadores

0

Introdução

The Taptic Engine produces your iPhone's vibration and haptic feedback functions. Use this guide to remove and/or replace the Taptic Engine in an iPhone 8 Plus.

This guide instructs you to fully detach and remove the display assembly; this is intended to make the phone easier to work with and to prevent accidental damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable removing the Taptic Engine while keeping the display cables attached, you can skip the steps for disconnecting the display.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws from the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

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  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

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  3. Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

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  4. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick or other thin pry tool a few millimeters into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick or other thin pry tool a few millimeters into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

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  5. Slide your pick around the corner and up the left edge of the phone, moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place. Stop near the top left corner of the display. Stop near the top left corner of the display.

    • Slide your pick around the corner and up the left edge of the phone, moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

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  6. Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

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  7. Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

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  8. Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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  9. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

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  10. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

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  12. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

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  13. Remove four Phillips (JIS) screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths: Two 1.3 mm screws
    Ferramenta utilizada nesse passo:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.99

    • Remove four Phillips (JIS) screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.4 mm screw

    • One 2.7 mm screw

    • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

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  14. Remove the lower display cable bracket.

    • Remove the lower display cable bracket.

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  15. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

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  16. Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the large lower display connector by prying it straight up from its socket. To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the large lower display connector by prying it straight up from its socket.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

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  17. Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step. Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step.

    • Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step.

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  18. Remove the two tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector: One 1.0 mm screw

    • Remove the two tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

    • One 1.0 mm screw

    • One 1.2 mm screw

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  19. Remove the bracket covering the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket covering the front panel sensor assembly connector.

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  20. Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket. Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket.

    • Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket.

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  21. Remove the display assembly.
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  22. Remove the three screws securing the L-shaped bracket next to the Taptic Engine: One 1.3 mm Y000 screw

    • Remove the three screws securing the L-shaped bracket next to the Taptic Engine:

    • One 1.3 mm Y000 screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 3.5 mm Phillips screw

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  23. Remove the bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

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  24. Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhered portion of the antenna flex cable from the top surface of the speaker. This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This makes it easier to separate (and re-adhere) the flex cable safely. This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This makes it easier to separate (and re-adhere) the flex cable safely.

    • Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhered portion of the antenna flex cable from the top surface of the speaker.

    • This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This makes it easier to separate (and re-adhere) the flex cable safely.

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  25. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from the logic board.

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from the logic board.

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  26. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the other end of the antenna flex cable from its socket, next to the Lightning Port. Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place. Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.

    • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the other end of the antenna flex cable from its socket, next to the Lightning Port.

    • Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.

    Editar

  27. Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.

    • Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.

    Editar

  28. Remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine: Two 1.5 mm Phillips screws

    • Remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine:

    • Two 1.5 mm Phillips screws

    • One 2.4 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

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  29. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.

    • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.

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  30. Remove the Taptic Engine.

    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

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Conclusão

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

16 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Autor(a)

com 3 outros contribuidores

Jeff Suovanen

Membro desde: 06/08/2013

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4 comentários

Hello

Thank you for the guide. I have read that it is possible to transfer the vibrating motor data from the original taptic engine. Do you know what difference it makes whether or not the data is transferred?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Best regards

thalley - Responder

After that , printfinger will work ?

Mohamed Ali - Responder

This guide was very helpful! I ended up just needing to tighten the screws retaining the Taptic Engine rather than replacing the whole thing, but this guide got me to that point! Thank you!

Nick - Responder

iPhone had back glass crack and vibration feedback from the haptic engine and thought “dang, engine must be messed up from being dropped and cracked”. Well looking online and seeing common issues with “screws being lose”, I figured… Let us tackle this fix. 10 minutes later, screen is removed carefully and professionally and 2 screws were sliding around in the phone with 2 more barley holding the engine. Screwed in. Phone haptic is feeling good as new :D

Jonathan - Responder

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