Introdução

Use this guide to replace a scratched or damaged rear case on your iPhone 5s.

This guide requires removing the battery. The adhesive strips securing the battery are not re-usable, so you'll want to have a supply of replacement adhesive strips on hand before you begin. Alternatively, you can secure the battery in the case using a piece of double-sided tape.

  1. Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.9 mm Pentalobe screws from either side of Lightning connector.

    I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

    Magnus Dalen - Responder

    For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

    Raymond Willems - Responder

    This is a really helpful one! My battery caught fire but luckily it was only one cell and not the entire battery. So it was done after a few seconds and I could go on with the replacement.

    Matthias Blab -

    Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

    William Kolb - Responder

    ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

    Don Libes - Responder

    What are you supposed to do if the screws are stripped or won’t come out. No luck with the tweezers either.

    ibrokeit - Responder

    Yep i‘ve had the same problem. One screw out, one that won‘t budge!!!

    Stennett -

    “cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

    Carolyn Green - Responder

    In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

    Andre Silva - Responder

  2. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

      • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

    steven krieger - Responder

    This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

    TerryChang - Responder

    An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

    TerryChang -

    I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

    Daylen -

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

    yaterbob - Responder

    Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

    mark40 - Responder

    Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

    debsmcd6 - Responder

    As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

    debsmcd6 - Responder

    There is no need to over tape the screen; one strip is enough if wider to make a full cover. My screen was super fragmented and it worked beautifully with just one layer of tape.

    Andre Silva - Responder

    • In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.

    • Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.

    • If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.

    • If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.

    can this separation makes the screen stop working

    bassam_shallak92 - Responder

    In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

    Iver søbakk -

    If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

    Shara Nelson - Responder

    I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

    Zhian Kamvar - Responder

    • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip the next two steps.

    • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

    • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

      • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

    • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

    DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

    Izaac Post - Responder

    Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

    Thomas Hallberg -

    This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

    Magnus Dalen - Responder

    I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

    Andrew - Responder

    This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

    ldavis - Responder

    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

    • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.

    • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

    • Skip the next three steps and continue on Step 9.

    Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair(place zip-tie around home button area and hold in place while using the tool). Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Responder

    The iSclack tool is a no brainer. I simply cleaned both areas were the suction cup secured to and pushed the ends of the iSclack together. Could not have been easier! The use of a zip tie did interest me, but I went the easiest way for no mistakes (iSclack). Be sure to hold the top of the phone securely, when open the bottom, which ever options you choose.

    iScott - Responder

    This worked for me. Unfortunately I managed to pinch the fleshy bit of my index finger when closing shut the handles….ouch! So just be a bit careful!

    debsmcd6 - Responder

    • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

    My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

    cpwittenberg - Responder

    Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

    Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

    Craig Matthews -

    I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

    Caroline Russell -

    Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

    Malcolm - Responder

    I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

    paul -

    This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

    daveoline -

    Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

    Lukeapple1414 - Responder

    First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

    iGuys -

    My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

    Nathan - Responder

    @malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

    hari - Responder

    In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

    also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

    Robert Colvin - Responder

    The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

    I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

    johnsonjohnr - Responder

    Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

    daveoline -

    I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

    I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

    matttaylor - Responder

    If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

    Caroline Russell -

    i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

    sineglabs - Responder

    1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

    2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

    3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

    4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

    seijihuzz01 - Responder

    We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

    Chris Twomey - Responder

    I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

    Bill Pennock - Responder

    Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

    Bill Pennock - Responder

    Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Responder

    I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

    stuart40plus - Responder

    Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

    Don Libes - Responder

    Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

    Peter Bovey - Responder

    Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

    Andre Silva - Responder

    • The front panel is attached with clips, and there are several ribbon cables connecting it to the rest of the phone. Your goal here is to release the clips and open the phone only enough to disconnect the cables. Go slowly and carefully to avoid damage.

    • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.

    • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the home button end of the front panel from the rear case.

    • With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the edges of the rear case down, away from the front panel assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The front panel assembly is a much tighter fit than on most other devices.

    Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

    llcoreyll - Responder

    Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

    idmadj -

    Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

    Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

    Timothy Fry -

    Found it very easy to do with a single suction cup, just wiggle and pry.

    emiserry -

    It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

    Rosemary McNaughton - Responder

    Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

    Brian Riess -

    Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

    Konrad Tlatlik - Responder

    Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

    Chal Miller -

    Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

    Thor Lancaster - Responder

    Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

    W Fleming -

    Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

    bartonh - Responder

    Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

    Kyle Rogers - Responder

    I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

    adrt - Responder

    We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

    Chris Twomey - Responder

    The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

    leeprobert - Responder

    ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

    Scott Watson - Responder

    ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

    Erik Osborn - Responder

    during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

    Valerie Egan - Responder

    Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

    Christopher Flynn -

    I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

    stopsurfing - Responder

    This is a great idea! Works for me too!

    JC Alice -

    This comment definitely should be in the guide!! It is an awesome hint.

    Andre Silva -

    Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Responder

    Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

    Michal Pawlowski - Responder

    YES! I was just about to suggest this as I tore the home cable even though I was really careful opening it.

    Arthur Shi -

    The tape suggestion worked great! I used the suction cup, and the tape limited how far the display lifted once the snaps released. I’m sure I would have ripped the cable without this. No need to buy the iSlack to do this (if you have a suction cup)

    spyder13b -

    What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

    Scott Nacke - Responder

    I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

    Graham Agnew - Responder

    The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

    At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

    Wolfgang Bauer - Responder

    Wish I’d read through these first.

    Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

    Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

    Leonard - Responder

    I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

    Peter Whitworth - Responder

    We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

    James M. Day - Responder

    I could not exert enough force using the suction cup that came with iFixit battery replacement kit

    to pull the bottom of the screen away from the case. However, an X-acto knife inserted between the

    screen and the bottom edge of the case near the left corner allowed me to lift the screen sufficie

    ntly to insert a stiffer blade (a tiny screwdriver). Lifting further with the stiffer blade I was

    able to complete the separation by sliding the edge of a credit card along the bottom and sides of

    the screen. A plectrum would have worked as well. Using a knife blade eliminates the risk of dama

    ging the home-button cable.

    JPF - Responder

    They really should include tips like a zip tie to prevent over opening and tearing the home button cable. Now I need to replace my home button.

    Lisa Jakubowsk - Responder

    • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several delicate ribbon cables connecting them.

    • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

    • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

    Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

    Scott Stathis - Responder

    I added a double face tape in the suction cup to make it work, and then, I did not try to remove it until I had unplugged the screen. It was inconvenient not being able to work with the screen in a horizontal position when removing the ‘home button’ but it wasn’t also the end of the world.

    Andre Silva - Responder

    • Open the phone just enough to reveal the metal bracket covering the home button cable.

    • Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that's too far.

      • Only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.

    • The next two steps apply to reassembly. Skip them and continue to Step 12 until reassembly.

    I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

    Nikunj - Responder

    Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

    John Doe - Responder

    mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

    Donna Godfrey -

    It's there to keep it firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    My bracket popped out when I opened the screen too far, so if you can’t see the bracket, look around inside your phone. it might be hiding out.

    lucy -

    Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

    Gabe - Responder

    I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

    Harry

    Harry Jones - Responder

    Genius. Pure genius.

    Aiden Baker -

    I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

    andy - Responder

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Responder

    You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

    Iver søbakk - Responder

    Yep. Bound to the phone CPU.

    Michael Walker -

    When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

    Zac Imboden - Responder

    I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

    Kris704 - Responder

    I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

    When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

    Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

    Completely bummed at this point….

    Alun Williams - Responder

    Sounds like you’ve got an iPhone 5. This guide is for the 5s. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

    N B - Responder

    Same here. I thought I was being very careful but ended up damaging something even though everything looked fine. No more TouchID for this old iPhone 5S…

    Michael Walker -

    There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

    Robert Smith - Responder

    Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

    Andre Silva - Responder

    Tape the screen to the case on the sides with some slack to keep the screen from opening too far.

    Nace - Responder

    Just wedge the sharp end of the forceps between the bracket and the plug and push until the bracket pops open. That way there is no danger of tearing out the entire socket.

    Imre Treufeld - Responder

    One way to easily access the bracket (for removal and for insertion) is to rotate the display around the cable connection horizontally, so that the screen is not above the bracket but rather to the side.

    When disassembling, note that the screen assembly is hinged to the bottom on the edge away from the home button. After first opening the screen to about 30 degrees as above, slide the screen in the direction where the home button was to disengage this hinge (this is the first bullet item in step 13 below). Then rotate to expose the bracket to eyes and tweezers.

    Yishai Sered - Responder

    This metal bracket snaps over the plug, and there appears to be a snap detent on the front of the bracket (side facing the charging port). The first photo for this step show the spudger on the side closest to the battery (above the holes in the bracket). I would recommend pulling up on the side closest to the charging port. Also, as others mentioned, when this releases it will go flying - mine did too.

    Take note of how it’s oriented before you pop it loose - it only goes on one way (can’t be rotated 180 degrees)

    When re-installing the bracket later, I inserted the side closet to the battery first (like the 2nd photo in Step 10 below), then rotated it down (pressing it down). It snaps back in place

    spyder13b - Responder

    • During reassembly, you will need to reinstall the Touch ID cable bracket. The top of the bracket needs to slide between the battery and Touch ID cable connector, in front of the metal tab. The bottom must latch down over the connector.

    • Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right.

    This is the hardest part lol

    Bob smith - Responder

    I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

    FierDancr -

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

    2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

    3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

    seijihuzz01 - Responder

    Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

    seijihuzz01 - Responder

    That was fun without tweezers :)

    Oscar - Responder

    Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

    natzulf -

    It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

    copeconsultancy - Responder

    I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

    Brent Hillyer - Responder

    After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

    Jere -

    After about 20 minutes I wonder if I could just snap it in place. I did it in about 15 seconds.

    The “slide part and accompanying images are really misleading.

    jpfranc -

    It took me 10 minutes to accomplish this step; 9’:55’’ I spent reading the comments and 0:05’’ plugging the bracket the way you describe. This step step should be edited in this guide. It is definitely misleading people.

    Andre Silva -

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Responder

    Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

    Bill Pennock -

    I'm not so patient, so I finally gave up and ditched the bracket. No problem so far. Anyway, ditch it at your own risk!

    Daniel del Saz -

    On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

    Jeff Clayton - Responder

    All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

    Kim Mace - Responder

    I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

    Cory Powell - Responder

    This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

    After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

    Toby Moncaster - Responder

    I was sweting gallons during this step!

    Timothy Owens - Responder

    The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

    Ron Wagner - Responder

    HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

    Martin Chudomel -

    This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

    Whitney Hourigan - Responder

    Updated the text a bit, while correct, it didn’t mention the metal tab in relation to the battery and cable connector. Hope this helps the next person!

    Sam Lionheart -

    And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

    Jake Baxter - Responder

    It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

    Andre Silva - Responder

    I am having trouble connecting the home button connector to the phone cpu? Not sure why it's not staying connected but was wondering it there was any advice. I've tried for about 20 minutes just trying to line it up and press it down but no luck…

    Trayvon Banks - Responder

    3 times I’ve had to repair my 5S & this was the most frustrating part each time. This time I cheated & just placed the cover back on top of the cable & closed the phone up. No clicking or sliding or fumbling with it. Look at it from the left side & it’s a bit easier to see where it winds up, but I didn’t fuss with it. Phone works fine now anyway.

    seijihuzz01 - Responder

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to snap the front portion of the Touch ID cable bracket down over the cable connector.

    • If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit.

    It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Responder

    See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

    Elliot Fleming - Responder

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector up out of its socket.

    • Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

    Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

    Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

    Keystone - Responder

    Reassembly:

    The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

    That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

    The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

    seijihuzz01 - Responder

    Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

    Brian Riess - Responder

    这个地方必须小心,我上次就把底部接口搞坏了,害我换个电池的同时还换了一个尾插

    Zhou Lin - Responder

    • Once the connector has been released, pull the home button end of the assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

      • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

      • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

    maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

    Joop Roos - Responder

    Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

    Kelly Ann - Responder

    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

    I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

    Luke Lin - Responder

    See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

    Didier Daniel -

    Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

    Peter Pan - Responder

    Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Responder

    Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Responder

    Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Responder

    Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

    Vitaly Kirichenko - Responder

    I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

    Bruce Peffley -

    Same problem here

    Mikkel Albrechtsen -

    The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

    Tom Gleason - Responder

    The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

    Chris Wiley - Responder

    i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

    Pierre - Responder

    • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

    Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

    Daniel Goldschmidt - Responder

    Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

    Bryan Remely - Responder

    Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

    Someone Somewhere - Responder

    After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

    Scott Nacke - Responder

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

    pourquoi faire?

    Alexis Camper - Responder

    Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

    William Stein - Responder

    Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

    William Stein - Responder

    A way to skip step 17-22

    I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

    Rolf Enderes - Responder

    I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

    Daniel Melchior - Responder

    I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

    Ran Mika (Tshukimi Elune) - Responder

    I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

    Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

    Nancy Zan - Responder

    If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

    john lawn - Responder

    • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

      • One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

      • One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

      • One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

      • One more 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

        • This 1.7 mm screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing.

      • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 1.3 mm screw or one of the 1.7 mm screws in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

        • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws, and don't force them. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size.

    Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

    CLAUDE - Responder

    Hi Claude,

    Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

    So, I was wondering:

    1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

    2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

    3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

    Thanks in advance.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat -

    Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

    Ariel Drotter -

    Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

    Ariel Drotter -

    @Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

    iGuys -

    Hi Everyone,

    Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

    The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

    Hope this helps.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat - Responder

    The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

    RayBob - Responder

    Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

    W Fleming -

    i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

    William Boggs - Responder

    The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

    If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

    Please change all the versions including this step.

    Louis Torres - Responder

    I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

    lambdahindiii - Responder

    I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

    I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

    wmlee1 -

    I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

    Some things to look out for:

    - Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

    - The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

    - To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

    Take your time and good luck all

    wilten -

    I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

    Matt Reier -

    On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

    I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

    woods81 - Responder

    You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

    BJS -

    You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

    Drtofu -

    Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

    Jack -

    I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

    shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

    what is the correct way?

    alexaamo91 - Responder

    i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

    Apple logo then blue screen

    kgale4 -

    I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

    Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

    fredhdx - Responder

    The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

    mnoivad - Responder

    Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

    Pete H - Responder

    I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

    Daylen - Responder

    Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

    bartonh - Responder

    That is exactly how I did it; good hint. Thanks.

    Andre Silva -

    So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

    larserikkolden - Responder

    If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

    Mehmet Hakan - Responder

    I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

    Any suggestion?

    denis.g.94 - Responder

    Hi Denis, could you be a bit more specific as to which metal bracket you are referring to please? also, where did you put the piece of plastic? Thank you.

    jamesmclachlan -

    Denis, could you be more specific please? Which metal bracket causes the problem and where did you put the piece of plastic?

    I have the same problem, (lost touch screen function).

    jamesmclachlan -

    Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

    James Lee - Responder

    After aligning the bracket over the screw holes, I used the tweezers to pick the screw on its head and position it in the hole. Then, it was not difficult to use the screwdriver to fasten it.

    Andre Silva -

    If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

    Colm Noone - Responder

    Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

    Sandy Trevor - Responder

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

    yaterbob - Responder

    The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

    Richard - Responder

    Color coding the screw heads is an excellent idea. I used red for red - green for green - and black for orange - left the yellow one uncolored. Did a screen capture and labeled it to avoid confusion.

    Leonard - Responder

    Also color a small area around the screws on the cable bracket. Makes it real easy to see which screw goes where.

    Leonard -

    I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

    patjmccarthy - Responder

    I used colored sharpies to keep track of the screws. I color coded the screw heads and around their holes. Worked like a charm.

    Brigham Okano - Responder

    I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

    Sven Siggelkow - Responder

    Erroneamente ho sbagliato la combinazione delle viti e mi si è danneggiata l’iPhone.. che parte devo cambiare ?

    garino1990 - Responder

    You do not actually have to remove the screen to replace the battery. Just tilt up the screen at a 60 degree angle from the phone and tape it open or have someone hold it up. That way you don’t have to flex the screen wires or inadvertently damage anything.

    Imre Treufeld - Responder

    I also completed this repair successfully without removing the screen. I kept the screen at a 90 degree angle using the iPhone’s box and a rubber band as pictured in Step 13. I was nervous about bumping it while doing the rest of the steps and stretching the display cables too much, but it worked.

    garygrossman - Responder

    • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

    At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

    Michael Schöttner - Responder

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable.

    The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

    Magnus Dalen - Responder

    I did not try the spudger (but I think I should have), because this cable was the most difficult to me. It kept flipping (not aligning with the socket) and with one hand holding the screen and the other trying to connect was very difficult .

    Andre Silva -

    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

    • Disconnect the LCD cable connector.

    • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

    When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Responder

    After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

    Jules JUSTE - Responder

    And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

    Jules JUSTE - Responder

    Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

    Bryan Remely -

    No doubt about that.

    Bryan Thompson - Responder

    What can I do

    i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.

    NOW IT IS NOT WORKING.

    HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN ANYONE HELP IN THAT

    Faheem Sameer - Responder

    At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

    fele felix - Responder

    So what happens if you don’t disconnect the battery before dis/reconnecting the LCD connector? Can you damage something irreversibly? I have what looks like a bad display ertifacts, lines, overall bustedness…) and am not sure if because I didn’t disconnect the battery…. I was following the lady in the video instead of the guide like an idiot…. She didn’t disconnect the battery. :P

    Tom - Responder

    What’s the problem with my phone? It shows the Apple Logo but it shows a black screen after. What happened?

    Marcus Liu - Responder

    • Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

    When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

    Pete H - Responder

    I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

    ilsedorec - Responder

    pure genius, this works

    Oliver Markl -

    Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

    hermosillaignacio - Responder

    It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

    The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

    This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

    Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

    This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

    In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

    Mikereilly2009 - Responder

    Using the tool from the opposite side from what is shown here was many times easier (considering I had the front panel attach to a box with the rubber band trick)

    David - Responder

    Agree, did the same thing.

    Andre Silva -

    After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

    Melissa - Responder

    After I replaced my battery, I turned the phone back on and everything worked except the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen now. Does anyone know what I did wrong??? I do I fix this???

    Melissa - Responder

    after battery replacing the Volume and Sleep buttons don’t work anymore. What I did wrong and what I can do to resolve the problem?

    Thanks

    Nicola - Responder

    Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

    Sam Lionheart -

    • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

    I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

    For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

    As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

    IMG LINK:

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

    Oscar Vera - Responder

    Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

    Bob smith -

    Dear Oscar,

    I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

    Thank you very much,

    Alex

    Alex -

    The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

    Toby Parnell -

    To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

    It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

    Bryan Remely -

    Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

    WILL D -

    why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

    Cameron Shelley - Responder

    When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Responder

    thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

    Brian Hayes -

    I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

    Lance - Responder

    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray. This may require a significant amount of force.

    Adicionar comentário

    • Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    Adicionar comentário

    • Use a spudger to gently pry the button assembly cable up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

    What is this connector for?

    istylefix - Responder

    After assembly back that connector won't stick to logic board. it's not broken and on logic board nothing damaged but that connector won't stick back. And beacause of that my power button doesn't work.

    Sergey Ivanov - Responder

    This is the only connector I have struggled with, as it doesn't snap down that easily. Does anyone else have tips for an easier time reconnecting this connector? Thanks, it doesn't really want to snap back down.

    TheChicken - Responder

    when having a hard time putting the button assembly cable back on, check to make sure the prongs on wither socket are not bent. i had 3 bent, prayed them up gently, and made them as straight in line as possible and reattached the cable to the socket. take extra care with this cable and socket as it is difficult to get back on and doesn't snap in like the others.

    williamsmr84 - Responder

    ALTERNATIVE:

    As long as you're careful about removing the speaker so you don't damage the small plastic pegs on the top & left sides, you can skip Step 25 - 34 and save a lot of time.

    seijihuzz01 - Responder

    I'd agree with this. At I'd least give it a try.

    I didn't see this suggestion until after I had problems reattaching the back-facing camera and display assembly to the logic board. Actually damaged the camera connection and had to remove it so the display assembly connections were good.

    Bruce Peffley -

    As I look back over all the comments, I'd try skipping steps 17-25 and 28-34. They don't look to be necessary to replace the Lightning connector and just make for more potential problems reconnecting everthing

    Bruce Peffley -

    This picture is also wrong, it is from a iPhone 5S, not from iPhone SE (have a look on the serialnumber) and the area by the powerbutton

    holgerklingelhoefer - Responder

    You would be surprised how much force is needed to put this cable back in. Just push a little more firm and it should click in. I played with this for 30 minutes LOL ( BUT CHECK THE CONNECTORS ARENT BENT BEFORE APPLYING MORE PRESSURE! )

    Dylan Collins - Responder

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    • Use a spudger to pry the Lightning connector cable up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Fold the Lightning connector cable out of the way of the logic board.

    Connector ist auf Logic Board festgeklebt, sorgfältig Kleber lösen

    Fabian Kunz - Responder

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

    Beim Zusammenbau muss man darauf achten, dass der goldene Kontakt des Antennenkabels NICHT die 2,8 mm Abstandsschraube (aus Schritt 27) berührt.

    During reassembly you have to ensure that the golden antenna connector does not touch the 2.8 mm standoff screw (from Step 27).

    johannesbrand - Responder

    Reassembly: The left edge of the speaker has a thumbnail-width groove into which you can seat the antenna to ensure it's out of the way. You can use your thumbnail in this groove to slide the antenna wire back & forth until it's in the proper position to snap it onto the connector. Trying to reattach it connector-first was frustrating as the part is very small & difficult to maneuver that way.

    seijihuzz01 - Responder

    Found it VERY difficult to reattach the antenna cable!!

    William - Responder

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera cable from its socket on the logic board.

    This is a picture from a iPhone 5S, not from iPhone SE. There are little different pieces near the powerbutton

    holgerklingelhoefer - Responder

    • Remove any tape covering the camera flash bracket.

    This picture is also wrong, it is from a iPhoen 5S, not from iPhone SE

    holgerklingelhoefer - Responder

    The same photos are used for many repairs for both phones. The procedures should be identical, despite a few minor visual differences.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Remove the following screws from the logic board:

      • One 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw

        • This screw also holds a small metal contact beneath the logic board. It's held in place underneath a plastic bracket, but if you see it slipping out, refer to this step to remove it.

      • Two 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screws

      • Four 2.8 mm standoff screws

        • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

        • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    Pl note > Under the main board at (Red) 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw, there is a small spacer plate with hole. It is at the bottom, below the main board and not visible when removing the main board. Remember to place it back before fitting the main board when reassembling.

    Bobby Patel - Responder

    Bobby can you post the exact orientation of the ground part, thanks

    hrn1203 -

    Thanks Bobby patel

    Alma - Responder

    Hi hrn1203, the orientation of the small spacer plate goes like this.... Align the longest edge of the spacer to the top edge of the housing, note also there are 3 pressed dots, these must face downwards against the bottom housing. Bobby's location of the spacer is 100% correct. This is an important part and so this guide should be updated to reflect this spacer. Hope this helps :-)

    Paul - Responder

    One of the standoffs are not magnetic. I'm not sure which one, I assume it's the one on the top.

    Josh Ginsberg - Responder

    As Josh mentioned, one of the 2.8 mm standoff screws is non-magnetic. It's one of the top two (i.e. two nearest the power switch). Can anyone confirm which one?

    kjmorley - Responder

    The standoff in the upper left of the picture is not magnetic on the phone I repaired, so I used my tweezers to place it. It said in Step #7 that that screw was not magnetic. On my phone it was. So, either I have different parts or the magnetism note was accidentally swapped.

    mnoivad - Responder

    i nid a help.. may i knw wat does the zone near the red circle works?is it for sim network?

    arjun22monster - Responder

    The stand off screw at top left (as per the above picture) is also very slightly longer than the other 3 stand off screws.

    steve keeler - Responder

    The non-magnetic standoff receives the non-magnetic phillips screw that holds the display plate. Those fasteners are non-magnetic because they're located near components related to telephony. I've seen reports that using ferromagnetic fasteners at this location can cause interference with the cell radio, but I've yet to personally confirm that. I try to use only non-magnetic fasteners at these points just to be on the safe side.

    E West - Responder

    • Use a plastic opening tool to lift the logic board up enough to grab with your fingers.

    Adicionar comentário

    • Pull the logic board slightly away from the rear facing camera.

    • Do not try to remove the logic board just yet, as it is still connected by an antenna cable on the back.

    • Flip the logic board toward the battery, as if you are turning the page in a book.

    During reassembly, make sure you flip the small ribbon cable up (near top grouping of 5 sockets) so it isn't trapped under the logic board. It's easy to focus on slipping the logic board in and the ribbon cable stays under the logic board, and then you have to remove all the screws again :-/

    VWrider - Responder

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable on the back of the logic board.

    • Remove the logic board from the iPhone.

    Do i need a carrier specific logic/mother board? I have a verizon model

    carlo piccolo - Responder

    Hi I would like to know one small iron plate with hole where it will be placed, I cannot fix it, I do not remember where I oppend it ? can you help me please ?

    I do not know how to fix it again kindly help me please ?

    skhalid2004 - Responder

    Dove posso acquistarla che sia compatibile ?

    garino1990 - Responder

    • At this point, a small metal plate near the rear facing camera is loose and may come free from its recess.

    • Because it is very small and easy to lose, it's best to remove this plate and set it aside while you continue to work on your phone.

    • Use tweezers to remove the plate from beneath the bracket to the left of the rear-facing camera.

    • When reassembling, orient the plate with the small tab to the right and the longest flat edge against the top of the phone.

    The small metal plate step 31. If I remember correctly this loose metal plate lies below the logic board, another word logic board lies on top this loose metal plate, then there goes the bracket with a screw on top to hold both down. What is this loose metal plate for? What happen if I place the loose metal plate on top of logic board? Does it affect the rear mic, speaker and headphone jack? Thank you for yr times. N.

    eat646 - Responder

    FYI - If you forget to replace the little plate, your Lock button won't work. At least that was my experience.

    easleyjs -

    I would call that a grounding plate as it looks like it provides grounding for the power button assembly to the board. Without ground the power button would not be able to send current pulses when you short the power button by pushing it from the power button itself > power button cable to logic board.

    Not sure why they did this because they could of just provided ground on the cable itself. That's my understanding because that put should not of been designed like that.

    Ben -

    This picture is also wrong, it is from a iPhone 5S, not from iPhone SE. There is a little different between 5S and SE in the near of the Powerbutton.

    holgerklingelhoefer - Responder

    Can anyone post the correct picture or explain the correct position of the metal plate?

    Andreas Spannagel -

    Current title of this repair thread is iPhone 5S. Is title incorrect?

    zb7jpc -

    These same steps/images are used in iFixit guides for both the 5s and SE because the two designs are very nearly identical. But there shouldn’t be any difference that’s relevant to the instruction given here. That is, the plate and its position should be exactly the same regardless of which phone you are working on. (But if we got that wrong, please let us know.) If you’re sharp enough to spot a subtle visual difference in some other unrelated component in the background, give yourself a smile and a wink for being clever and then carry on with your repair ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thanks a lot for this one !

    Guillaume Blas - Responder

    hi every body i want help my i phone 5s it also restart usually and i trying sofwear or very thing and it do it agine and agine

    secound problem my two camera front and back not working and a i replacment as not working

    Tefa osman - Responder

    Hi, as this metal plate is under the logical GPS part , i think it is a connector between the GPS and the main body (as the GPS antenna), so if this piece get lost, the GPS signal will be Weak or inactive.

    mozafar - Responder

    • Using a pair of tweezers, flip the rubber camera cover out of its clip and toward the outside of the rear case.

    • Do not attempt to fully remove this cover. It is attached to the rear case and only needs to be flipped open, not removed.

    Que se passe t’il si le cache est complètement enlevée ?

    Ali Oukhrid - Responder

    S'il est déchiré, vous pourriez éventuellement essayer de le recoller avec un ruban adhésif une fois que vous avez sorti la caméra et si vous arrivez à attraper le morceau. Mais ceci nécessite beaucoup de doigté. Si vous n’y arrivez pas, vous pourrez juste le remettre par dessus pour qu’il ramène au moins un peu de stabilité à la caméra.

    Sandra Hiller -

    • Remove the rear-facing camera from the rear case.

    • During reassembly, the camera cable should bend in a 'U' shape to slot in behind the logic board.

    • If the rubber camera bumper has shifted, be sure to replace it before reassembling your iPhone.

    Can i juste skipped to this part before the sim tray part and all that ? Because there is dust on it i just want to wipe the dust and put all the pieces back together ?

    P.S: how can i know if somebody answer me ?

    rabekevin - Responder

    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket.

    Adicionar comentário

    • Remove the rear-facing camera bracket from the rear case.

    It was not noted in this guide but be sure to place the tab on the LEFT UNDER when replacing the rear-facing camera bracket

    DAXimus - Responder

    • Remove the rubber camera bumper from the case.

    Adicionar comentário

    • Insert the tip of a spudger into the hole in the battery adhesive tab near the headphone jack.

    • Lift the tab up slightly and use the spudger to unfold the tab from its recess.

    Adicionar comentário

    • Pull the battery adhesive tab straight up from the phone.

    • Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.

    Adicionar comentário

    • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip as it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

    Adicionar comentário

    • Guide the strip carefully around the corner and up the side of the battery.

      • Be careful not to snag it on the corner of the battery or on any of the other internal iPhone components.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling, re-grabbing the strip near the battery if necessary, until the entire strip comes free.

    Adicionar comentário

    • Repeat to remove the second adhesive strip.

    • If you removed both strips successfully, skip the next two steps.

    • If either of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strip, and then proceed to the next step.

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    • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

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    • Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the case side of the battery and the rear case.

    • Be careful to keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

    • Press the card in farther to break up the adhesive behind the battery.

    The iphone 3 and 4 were so much easier to fix! :)

    gibitzga - Responder

    • Remove the battery from the rear case.

    • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

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    • Remove the following Phillips #000 screws from the vibrator bracket:

      • One 1.7 mm screw

      • One 2.5 mm screw

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    • With a set of tweezers, remove the vibrator bracket.

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    • Remove the 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the vibrator to the rear case.

    I can't get this screw out and I think I'm starting to strip the threads. Help!!

    Andy Byrd - Responder

    • Use a set of tweezers to remove the vibrator from the rear case.

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    • Remove the following screws securing the volume button and ringer switch brackets to the side of the rear case:

      • One 1.9 mm Phillips screw

      • Two 1.6 mm Phillips screws

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the ringer switch bracket from the side of the rear case.

    • Remove the ringer switch.

    • Note the orientation for reassembly: The red line should be at the top of the button. The notch in the back of the ringer switch button should be in the same position as, and mate with, the mechanical switch on the cable.

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    • Use a spudger to pry the volume button bracket from the side of the rear case.

    • Remove the volume buttons.

    • During reassembly, make sure the '+' (volume up) button is in the hole closest to the ringer switch.

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    • Use tweezers to pull the rubber rear-facing camera cover out of its slot in the rear case.

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    • Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the logic board antenna bracket to the rear case.

    This is actually the GPS/cellular DRX antenna connector, don't screw up.

    Tom Chai - Responder

    Isn't the cellular antenna on the bottom portion (connected via the smaller antenna type connection at the bottom of the main board)? I ask because after replacing my back housing I get a bar or two less than usual so either I missed something or the aftermarket housing I bought isn't good enough. The only thing that didn't fit properly with mine was a metal bracket that is actually below the two mentioned on Step 70 didn't fit properly around one of the standoffs which left me to believe something might not be contacting properly. WiFi and GPS seem to work perfect. This guide seems to end prematurely.

    chris -

    What do you mean don't mess up? Don't you just screw it in?

    Timothy Rappaport - Responder

    • Remove the logic board antenna bracket.

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    • Remove the 2.1 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the contact clip and power/sleep button bracket.

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    • Remove the contact clip from the iPhone.

    • During reassembly, be sure the bracket is properly seated between the rear-facing camera flash and the top edge of the case.

    Where can i buy this or what name this have ? i find nothing about this, please help me

    Dominik Wendelmuth - Responder

    • Slide the flat end of a spudger under the upper component assembly cable to free it from the rear case.

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    • Run the flat end of the spudger under the portion of the cable near the volume control buttons.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to free the adhesive securing the vibrator contact portion of the upper assembly cable from the rear case.

    • If the flash assembly has not already popped out of its hole in the rear case, use the tip of a spudger to push it free.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to free the microphone portion of the assembly from the case.

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    • Use a set of tweezers to swing the power/sleep button bracket away from the case.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the power/sleep button into the phone slightly.

    • Use a set of tweezers to remove the button.

    • Double check the orientation of the button for reassembly. The two "L" shapes should be upside down, and the metal bar should be folded onto the top of the button.

    Thanks so much for the diligent documentation and pictures -!

    TadhgR - Responder

    If you are going to move metal bar from old power button to new one, make sure you put it right. It's not indifferent which way you insert it because metal bar is not symmetric. If you insert it wrong you can't push power button after assemble. Power button stuck after rear case replacement

    Asko Pesola - Responder

    Thanks a lot :)

    Didier Daniel -

    • Unclip the power/sleep button bracket hinge from the post holding it in the iPhone.

    how should one remove the bracket without damaging the cable? I still cannot take it off the hinge!

    Nicola Maggi - Responder

    • Remove the upper component assembly from the iPhone.

    • This cable has many delicate ends and can tear very easily. If you encounter any resistance when you lift the cable, stop immediately. Run a spudger under the entire cable and try lifting again.

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    • Remove the following Phillips #000 screws:

      • Two 2.9 mm

      • Two 1.5 mm

      • One 3.1 mm

      • One 3.6 mm

      • One 3.4 mm

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    • Remove the speaker by lifting it up and out of the rear case.

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    • Slide the flat end of a spudger under the right-hand side of the lightning connector cable assembly to free it from the rear case.

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    • Continue to detach the lightning cable assembly by sliding the spudger under the port components.

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    • Remove the lightning cable assembly from the rear case.

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    • There are two small metal pieces—a bracket and washer that may come loose and fall out of the phone with the Lightning connector assembly removed.

    • Take these pieces out and set them aside for safe keeping.

    I lost both metal pieces..... is this going to cause me any serious issues?

    Andrew - Responder

    Do you have issues with reception?

    chris -

    control talk stopped working after changing dock (step 70) and everything is in its place

    eu mesmo - Responder

    There's also a bracket below these two metal pieces that it taped down that goes around the two screw standoffs at the very bottom. My aftermarket case did not allow me to properly seat this additional bracket. I'm not entirely sure what it does.

    chris - Responder

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

175 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Sam Lionheart

Member since: 18-10-2012

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There appears to be steps missing from this guide. I am finished but the antenna is still attached to the inside of the case. I see it in the image of step 60, but not after. I also have 2 clips remaining on one side of the case.

scott56 - Responder

I quote scott56 except the last pic I see the piece is #61 and I have two clips per side plus the spring of the SIM card.

stenjidiver - Responder

The guide is excellent, but few things are missing. You will need double stick adhesive to reattach the battery otherwise it will rattle inside the case. Also the lightening cable need double stick tape to stick to case. Its highly recommended that you have a roll of 3M thin double stick tape before you start. The guide also left out that you need to remove and reinstall SIM card lever and three mounting clips. Plus you need to pull off various rubber components all around the old case including those that secure lightening, speaker, audio jack etc to the case and reinstall them in the new case.

Paul Pryor - Responder

I don't get service please help ?

Ahmed Raza - Responder

Are you in the restaurant and waiting to be served? Wrong place and definitely not good question - why are you not asking what is wrong because the phone is not working? Come on!!

Bojan Bilbija -

After Step 64, you must also carefully Peel up and Remove the Antenna Cable Assembly. This is the cable assembly shown in Step 30, that the logic board antenna gets disconnected from. The rear case that I purchased did not have this cable attached to it, so it must be transferred from your existing case to the new one.

cretamk - Responder

The guide with all comments worked well for me. Thank you to everyone for their input.

I can confirm the additional steps mentioned in the comments:

* Part under vibrator last visible in step 60/61

* Three Mounting clips e.g. visible in step 51

* Two rubber / mesh parts left and right to lighting connector

* One rubber part under that chip visible in step 61

To attach the battery in place I used iPhone 5s/5c/SE Battery Adhesive Strips mentioned in How to replace the battery in your iPhone 5s. I cut a small piece off it to fix the lightning assembly in place.

The iFixIt Phillips 000 screw river did not work for me. It seems to be just a tick to large and I damaged two screws with it. I used small Phillips screw driver labelled 1.5 x 45 that I bought locally.

Martin Heinrich - Responder

Can somebody suggest me shall i go to apple store for complete body changing or i can do it at home using the tips above? is it risky?

imrozk09 - Responder

I want to buy a back housing for my iphone SE .. is it the same as the one of iphone 5s meaning I can buy a 5s housing for my iphone SE?

kylefal - Responder

Did you try it? have the same issue here in Germany...

Mo -

I wish to replace my rear case on my iPhone SE. Will this guide also work for that phone?

sorenlindegaard - Responder

In general yes, this guide will work for iPhone SE, although you'll encounter a few minor differences. For example, the contact clip on Step 59 does not exist on iPhone SE—instead, the power button has a cable with a loop that connects to the right side of the case. If you're comfortable jotting down notes when you encounter small differences like that, you should have no problem. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

The most testing issue is the removal of the tiny metal pin that holds the power button bracket. Most rear cases don't come with this pre-installed, so you'll need to transfer it from your old case. This was particularly difficult. It's so small that it's very difficult to get any tools on it and even if you do, there's very little room to get any real leverage to get it to move. The only thing that worked for me was to very carefully destroy my old case and try and cut away the area around the pin with a small pair of cutters (trying not to damage it). A bit of time and patience and it came free. Overall if you can follow the instructions in this excellent guide (and keep comparing your new and old cases) you should be able to get through this project without issue even if one or two steps are missing. Good luck!!

Bigphilly71 - Responder

I used the following method to remove the tiny metal pin that holds the power button bracket:

I used a fine wire cutter (found in an electronica store) and pushed the pin up. Just enough so that I could remove the pin along the top without damaging it and have it placed in my new case

clbr -

Hey! There is an ULO (unidentified lying object) on Step 33. it seem to appear from nowhere, and is not pointed out in ANY video or tutorial i have seen. Its lying on the left side of the flash mount. Silver thing with 3 dots on it. Anybody knows where this piece is coming from? I cant find out where it belongs on my iphone 5s. Thanks in advance! -Are

Are Storholm - Responder

Hi there! Looks like that's a spacer bracket that belongs under the screw marked red in the logic board screw removal step (step 30), Paul's comment mentions the intended orientation. We'll update the guide to reflect this!

Sam Lionheart -

TNX! Awesome job you guys doing :D The phone works perfectly without it, but i will put it in if i have to open the $@$* again :D Ty for reply! =)

Are Storholm -

The exact positioning is detailed in this step here. Might be a good idea to pop it back in there before you lose it, or start having issues :P But you might be able to get away with it. Glad the guide worked out for you!

Sam Lionheart -

I have white 5s will black case or white case will be good...

I have lots of bumpers and back covers are with me will be it go waste.

Can I use it in the new case. Will it fix in case.... Please reply to this to my mail. My friend is coming from us this weekend.....

p_niyaz - Responder

If you have any image of the phone in black and white pl send them.

Thanks Niyazu

p_niyaz - Responder

I spent 6 hours and the result is : dead iphone. I also have 1 part left; its concentric with a hole in the middle and i dont see it anywhere in this manual.

Also, after step 73 there are several parts left inside the rear case..

max - Responder

Pretty easy, just very time consuming. Used this guide to replace my space gray iPhone 5s to a gold/black combo iPhone (using OEM parts). I would recommend using a bit of heat once you get the battery and logic board out, in order to safely remove some of the flex cables adhered to the board.

Edward Pedemonte - Responder

Is iphone 5s back housing compatible with iphone SE?? If not then someone plz suggest me a link for iphone SE OEMs.. Thank you!!

Jay - Responder

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