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Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement

Escrito Por: Craig Lloyd (e 5 outros contribuidores)
  • Comentários: 67
  • Favoritos: 6
  • Execuções: 33

Dificuldade

Moderado

Passos

18

Tempo necessário

30 minutos - 1 hora

Partes

5

Sinalizadores

0

Introdução

Follow this guide to replace a broken or faulty right Joy Con sensor rail on the Nintendo Switch game console.

The Switch uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste.

Note: This guide, and the part we sell, are compatible with the original Nintendo Switch model released in 2017, as well as the newer refreshed model released in 2019 (model numbers HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01), respectively).

  1. Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off. Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller. While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

    • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

    • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

    • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

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  2. Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console. Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con. Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

    • Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console.

    • Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

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  3. Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.
    Ferramenta utilizada nesse passo:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.99

    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

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  4. Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel: One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

    • One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

    • Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

    • To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won't come out.

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  5. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side). Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

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  6. Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device. If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

    • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

    • If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

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  8. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

    • Close the kickstand.

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  9. Open the game card cartridge flap. The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed. Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

    • Open the game card cartridge flap.

    • The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed.

    • Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

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  10. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

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  11. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it. During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.

    • During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

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  12. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

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  13. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port. If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

    • If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

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  14. Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device. Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

    • Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

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  15. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

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  16. Use a spudger, opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con rail data cable's ZIF connector. Use a spudger, opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con rail data cable's ZIF connector.

    • Use a spudger, opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con rail data cable's ZIF connector.

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  17. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

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  18. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the four 3.7 mm screws securing the right Joy Con rail to the frame of the device.

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the four 3.7 mm screws securing the right Joy Con rail to the frame of the device.

    • These screws are torqued down and can be difficult to remove. To prevent them from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try a different screwdriver if the screws won't come out.

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  19. Remove the right Joy Con sensor rail. Take care not to snag the rail's data cable on the device frame as you remove it.

    • Remove the right Joy Con sensor rail.

    • Take care not to snag the rail's data cable on the device frame as you remove it.

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Conclusão

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Answers community for help.

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Autor(a)

com 5 outros contribuidores

Craig Lloyd

Membro desde: 10/02/2016

24.705 Reputação

82 Guias de autoria

Emblemas: 41

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8 comentários

Would you happen to know how to take out the screws if they’ve been stripped due to corrosion/rust? The back and site plate screws seem to have corroded and started to strip when I tried to unscrew them.

MrColorless - Responder

I am running into same problem now. 3 out of 4 back screws are striped

Ryan Kindle -

This was a wonderful guide. Its straight forward, simple to understand, and doesnt pass over any steps large or small. Thank you to your team for what you do for us all.

Nicholas Bell - Responder

what can i do if the bracket has snapped off of the consel?

and where could i purchase replacement parts

joe mama - Responder

Do the parts exist yet to do this repair on the OLED model? The sensor rail is very slightly different from the original so just curious if there’s any ETA on when parts will start showing up for it

Matt - Responder

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