Email: craig@ifixit.com | Twitter: @craigelloyd | Instagram: craigelloyd
Hey there! I'm Craig and I’m the Head of Repair Guides at iFixit, overseeing guide creation and leading our incredibly talented team of technical writers.
I graduated from Purdue University in 2012 with a Bachelor’s in Media and Public Communication and a minor in Media Production. I started out writing articles for the student newspaper, eventually overseeing the publication’s web content and earning a spot as an Online Pacemaker Award finalist from the Associated Collegiate Press in 2011.
After graduating, I spent seven years writing for a handful of online publications, including Lifehacker, SlashGear, Digital Trends, How-To Geek, and more.
I started at iFixit as an Editorial Staff Writer and eventually transitioned to Technical Writing. A few months later I was promoted to Project Manager and Head of Repair Guides, where I get to play around with spreadsheets and plan things—my secret calling—but also continue to create awesome repair guides.
My love of tech and repair goes back to my adolescent years when I began tinkering with the family computer as a young and naive teenager. To this day, I love getting my hands dirty with projects around the house and in the garage, and I'm a strong advocate for the DIY movement. In other words, I don't call a guy when something breaks; I am the guy! And I always encourage others to pick up some tools and take matters into their own hands.
Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!
Yes, the digitizer is compatible with both models!
Yikes! Sorry to hear this. How did you pry with the spudger exactly? If you kept it around the top edge of the battery well then I would assume it wouldn’t damage the screen, but if you inserted the end of the spudger deeper in the battery well and used that point as the fulcrum, then I could see that putting a lot of pressure on the back of the LCD.
It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.
The battery is definitely pretty difficult to remove. It just takes time and patience! Our guide details the process: Nintendo Switch Lite Battery Replacement
Fanning a soldering iron back and forth on the soldered connection should do the trick!
The on/off switch is the red switch to the right of the photo. It is not needed for this repair.
It’s all one component! I suppose it’s possible to separate them, but the part we sell includes the screen and the frame in one piece.
Thanks everyone for the heads up! We’ve gone back and remeasured the screws to confirm, and have updated the guide appropriately.
Hey Tim, we’ve updated this step with screw measurements!