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Introdução

Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with the help of an iFixit kit with adhesive remover. The adhesive remover will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease.

iFixit adhesive remover is flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery is swollen, take extra precautions.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics. Follow all instructions and take care where you apply the adhesive remover.

  1. Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs. Power on your Mac and launch Terminal. Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    lamajr - Responder

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Responder

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Responder

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Responder

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Responder

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Responder

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - Responder

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - Responder

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - Responder

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - Responder

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - Responder

    Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

    Ed Mechem -

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - Responder

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - Responder

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - Responder

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - Responder

    When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda - Responder

    When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

    Ed Mechem -

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici - Responder

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease - Responder

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena - Responder

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 6.2 mm screws

    • Two 5.3 mm screws

    • Two 3.4 mm screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    Before any repair is carried out that involves removing the bottom case, the machines auto-boot function has be disabled. This can be disabled via the terminal command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00” once the repair has been completed the auto-boot function can be re-enabled via the vermin command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03”.

    Aaron Dalziel - Responder

    I recommend that you have an organizer tray for all the small parts, and label it in advance with the numbered “step” associated with each removal of screws and other parts. It really helped me when I needed to put everything back in reverse order, after the new battery is glued in place.

    tommy404 - Responder

  2. Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro. Lift the suction handle to create a slight separation between the lower case and the chassis.
    • Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.

    • Lift the suction handle to create a slight separation between the lower case and the chassis.

    To replace the bottom just line it up just like it came from the factory. Make sure it clears the display connectors. And press firmly down until the clips connect to the bottom again.

    olivia drinkwine - Responder

  3. Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis. Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case. This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.
    • Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

  4. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.
    • Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.

  5. Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes. Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis. Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.
    • Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.

    • Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.

    • Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.

    My 3rd and 4th clips released simultaneously with clip 1 and 2.

    Therefore I was looking to do something which had already been accomplished.

    David Hutzler - Responder

    yeah be sure not to bend those clips by the display bottom. You pull towards yourself to get it off

    Grant Tyler - Responder

  6. Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case. It may help to pull first at one corner, then the other. This may require a lot of force.
    • Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • It may help to pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • This may require a lot of force.

    Difficult to explain clearly, but worked easily for me by gripping the adjacent bottom and top corners then pulling in opposite directions, rather than trying to grip the hinge corner which is too narrow to afford a strong grip.

    Andrew Gordon - Responder

    This helped me. It needed more force than what I expected. Basically grab the corner with 6.2mm screw with one hand and the cover of that same corner with the other. Then pull the cover and push the laptop. Careful, it pops off with force!

    Javier De la Garza -

    I initially tried shifting the whole panel off the front after using the separating tool to make some space at the back where the hinges are. I only had luck when I pushed the panel back to it’s normal state and using the separating tool again to open the front, then getting my fingers underneath the slide it off the front was easy. I guess the lesson is to not use the separating tool to “push from the back“.

    Josh Brown - Responder

    This step really through me through a loop. My last two MBP were a 2011 and 2013 and on those the bottom just lifted off when you removed the screws. The clips and this sliding lock design added in the 2017 model was frustrating the first time. I was following a youtube video first and he did not explain the sliding part at all. I should have come here first, this guide explains it pretty well. The second time I opened my 2017, I kept an “opening pick” between the bottom panel and the body on each side, and used my two smallest screwdrivers as levers in both “front” corner screw holes. Used the same method without the picks to put it back together at the end. Wayyy easier that trying to grip the panel or laptop body. Just make sure the screwdrivers/pins that you’re using as levers are small enough to be loose in the screw holes and have room to move

    Jambu Atchison - Responder

    I used a pick underneath one of the back corners and nudge it (push down and towards the front - to get it off the hinge). This will make it easier to do the same for the other corner. The lower case will move off the middle plastic L-clips (which you will see after you inspect it.) Cheers! =)

    Gerard Padua - Responder

  7. Remove the lower case.
    • Remove the lower case.

    I used the green prying tool in the air gap at the rear to nudge the bottom forward.

    That is far easier and more reliable.

    David Hutzler - Responder

  8. Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery. Remove the tape.
    • Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • Remove the tape.

    once the tape's back in place, it doesn't look tightly attached. not sure, did I do something wrong here or it should be so.

    Anton Monakhov - Responder

    The tape will likely not adhere as well as when it came out of the factory. This isnt an issue! As long as the tape is in place when the lower cover is put back on the device you should be good to go.

    Tarun Thiruma - Responder

    The underside of the tape is not uniform. Therefore, pay attention to which direction it is placed by looking at the underside when you remove it. Possibly mark one edge so that you can replace in the same direction during reassembly.

    Rick Jaffe - Responder

  9. Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector. The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.
    • Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.

  10. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.

    If this ribbon comes off on both ends, how do you re-attach

    Gord Alder - Responder

  11. Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket. Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.
    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

    the cable connector (where the twizzer tip is) should be cleaned with alcohol or acetone before insertion because the cover (where the tip is holding it back) will have glue deposit smeared on top of the connector circuit traces. Glue will prevent a good connection with the BMS.

    tarex7 - Responder

    The little tab that you pull back on, at least in my cable, was simple glued onto the rest of the cable. I tried to carefully remove the cable, and the tab came off. I did not have flat tweezers in the ifixit replacement kit and did not want to pinch the cable with sharp instruments. Therefore, be extremely careful when removing the tab as it is difficult to reattach the cable without it.

    Rick Jaffe - Responder

    Same problem with the tape coming loose and the cable not coming out. Go further back along the cable and pull gently on the cable with your fingers and the connector will come out easily.

    Robert - Responder

  12. Fold the battery board data cable back and out of the way.
    • Fold the battery board data cable back and out of the way.

    • If you're replacing your battery, you may need to completely remove and transfer this cable to your new battery. Disconnect both ends and carefully remove the cable. During installation, be careful not to install it upside-down or backwards—note the orientation in the photos.

    The new battery I received did not come with the battery board data cable, so I had to remove the existing one and transfer it. The lock at the smaller end is the same mechanism as the one at the end shown in steps 11 and 12, but smaller (and harder to see. It helps to gently straighten the left end of the cable before trying to insert it in the end of the replacement circuit board.

    MikeG1 - Responder

    I can corroborate MikeG1’s comment. My battery came without the long data cable as well. I had to remove it from the fried battery. Plastic lock tab mechanism on the ZIF connector is smaller. My inspection microscope helped to transfer the cable to the new battery board. Thanks Mike!

    lamajr - Responder

    Likewise - the new battery came without a data cable. The cable was successfully removed from the old battery assembly and installed on the new battery, but it was tricky and nerve-racking (the cable is delicate and the connectors are very small) without instruction provided! The instructions should be updated to highlight the missing cable possibility, and provide information/illustration on transferring the cable.

    Marc - Responder

    In step 13, notice the amount of the data cable that sticks out of the connector. When moving this cable to the new battery, it is difficult to tell how far to push the cable into the connector or when it is fully inserted because the cable is so bendable.

    Rick Jaffe - Responder

    AMEN!! This was the hardest part of the ENTIRE process! Hard to know when the small end of the cable was “fully” inserted. Cable is SOOOOO delicate!

    Kevin McAda -

    If your laptop is showing the x where the battery icon is, this cable is at fault. This cable is referred to as the BMU (Battery Management Unit) flex cable. If it’s damaged, replacing it should solve your issue.

    Josh M - Responder

    my old battery was working but could not hold a charge very long so I replaced the battery and now my mac does not recognize the new battery. Thought it was a bad battery at first but I purchased a new batter and still the same problem, My mac will work off power outlet but does not register it has a battery at all now. I tried putting my old battery back on but i damaged the very small clip when i slid out the flex cable so its gone now. Could this cable be at fault? I don/t know what else it could be, i only messed with the battery.

    Leo Ruiz - Responder

  13. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

    When the battery management “BMS” circuit board is re-installed, loosely install the two 3.7 mm screws, put a spudger on the left side of the BMS board to wedge theBMS board to the right then tighten the two 3.7 mm screws. The reason for doing this is that the two power traces on the board may not make physical contact with the battery connector (connector at where the spudger is on step 15). One clue that you didn’t have physical contact is if you reinstalled everything but there is no power unless the AC supply is plugged in (with battery meter on the top at 0%). This was what happened to me. The reason is that when you bend the battery connector in step 15, it’s no longer in alignment with the traces on the BMS board and hence, you have to shift the BMS board to the right to compensate. Once I did this, voila 64% power.

    tarex7 - Responder

  14. Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery. Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
    • Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

  15. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the trackpad cable connector bracket.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the trackpad cable connector bracket.

  16. Remove the trackpad cable connector bracket.
    • Remove the trackpad cable connector bracket.

  17. Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable by gently prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable by gently prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable by gently prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

    This step needs a warning on it. I somehow angled my spudger too low and it pried the connecting port loose which eventually broke off the logic board. It ruined my computer. BEWARE.

    JACOB HESTER - Responder

  18. Prepare an iOpener and lay it on top of the trackpad ribbon cable for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the trackpad ribbon cable to the top of the battery.
    • Prepare an iOpener and lay it on top of the trackpad ribbon cable for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the trackpad ribbon cable to the top of the battery.

    • If you don't have an iOpener, use a hair dryer to warm up the cable instead. The cable should be warm, but not too hot to touch. Be careful not to overheat the battery.

    If you don’t have the iOpener, use a dry heating pad (with rice inside) and heat for 2 minutes in the microwave.

    tarex7 - Responder

    there's nothing in this manual about how to secure the cable while reassembling. I used insulating tape.

    Anton Monakhov - Responder

    The air drier worked well for me, just need to be patient and and maintain a slight pull force to know when it's ready.

    I did not need to secure the cable, the glue on it was still effective, apparently.

    Adrien Bernede - Responder

    I really think the repair kit should have helped prepare for this. I neither have a hair dryer nor an iOpener! Fortunately, one of the included “plastic cards”, carefully wedged under the cable, with gentle pulling on the cable, helped release the cable from the battery.

    Kevin McAda - Responder

    para separar el cable del pegamente se puede humedecer yna tarjeta fina plastica con alcohol isopropilico y con eso separar despacio el flex del lugar donde eta pegado

    you can use isopropilic alcohol , humect slim card whit alcohol isopropilic for separate flex from grue

    karloz61 - Responder

    Hair dryer worked well while I gently pulled on the cable.

    tommy404 - Responder

    I was also able to do this without heating the ribbon. Just used a wide spudger device and maintained gentle upward pressure while sliding the spudger toward me.

    philstphns - Responder

    I used a microwaveable pet heat pad, but equally could’ve used an iron (with steam turned OFF) with a folded tea towel in between.

    Josh Beckett - Responder

    Kevin is correct. Use the plastic card. Lift the cable to about 45 degrees and the card to maybe 10 degrees. GENTLY pull up ribbon while wiggling the card left and right while simultaneously pushing under the cable. GENTLY!

    Richard Ness - Responder

  19. Carefully peel the trackpad ribbon cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way. Do not fold or tear the cable. Do not fold or tear the cable.
    • Carefully peel the trackpad ribbon cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way.

    • Do not fold or tear the cable.

  20. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the trackpad assembly:
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the trackpad assembly:

    • Two 4.3 mm screws

    • Eight 5.8 mm screws

    Important note when you’re putting your laptop back together: while you tighten the screws, verify that the trackpad is not crooked in its slot. I didn’t, and there’s a tiny but noticeable misalignment between left and right. It’s not critical, just a pain to fix once you’ve put the cover back on.

    David Chatenay - Responder

  21. Remove the trackpad assembly. You'll need to swing the display open slightly to remove the trackpad. Take care to feed the trackpad ribbon cable through the MacBook Pro's frame without snagging.
    • Remove the trackpad assembly.

    • You'll need to swing the display open slightly to remove the trackpad.

    • Take care to feed the trackpad ribbon cable through the MacBook Pro's frame without snagging.

    • Be sure not to lose the six small washers (two circular and four rectangular) resting on the underside of the trackpad.

    Well… I lost one :) Anyone know where I could get a spare round one?

    matic.klemenc - Responder

    I don’t get why this is necessary to change the battery?

    Marvin - Responder

    Hi Marvin, I expect you figured out why this is necessary as you continued. I seriously wondered the same. The center battery does not have a solid case beneath it. If you don’t remove the track-pad, you will get adhesive remover on the circuitry and possibly ruin the track-pad. :-)

    Kevin McAda -

    Is it possible to leave the trackpad installed if you don’t use the adhesive remover technique? I always use a bent piece of heavy plastic to separate the battery from the laptop on these newer machines. I can’t stand the thought of putting solvent in a client’s Mac!

    jiclark - Responder

    When you screw the trackpad back, please remember that you are going to click on this thing. If you screw it so tight your trackpad will not be clickable anymore. If you screw it to lightly, it might fall off someday. I don't understand the balance between this. How do you screw the trackpad properly so you can still press on the trackpad and feel the click?

    Art Pablico - Responder

    Sorry, I was wrong, the technology on this thing is superb. Once you turn on your Mac, the trackpad automatically transforms itself into a clickable aluminum pad. I don't know how that happens. But you can check it out yourself. If you shutdown your Mac, it is not clickable, turn it on, then it clicks!

    Art Pablico -

  22. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 3.1 mm screws securing the battery board.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 3.1 mm screws securing the battery board.

    • These screws lie under the battery board data cable. You may need to gently maneuver the cable from side to side to access each screw.

    • Either screw may have a water damage indicator sticker on the top. If so, remove it with a pair of tweezers and set it aside before removing the screw.

    I tried (“Operation”!) to remove this water damage indicator sticker elegantly. Ended up hacking it apart. I think I’ll live.

    Ian Jelinek - Responder

  23. The battery board is permanently attached to the battery. Check to make sure it has adequate clearance to come out together with the battery, without snagging on other components.
    • The battery board is permanently attached to the battery. Check to make sure it has adequate clearance to come out together with the battery, without snagging on other components.

    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger under the battery board on the side nearest the logic board.

    • Lift the battery board to an angle of about 45 degrees. If necessary, lift the battery power connector out of the way to give the battery board extra clearance.

    A ce moment là, il faudrait déconnecter la nappe de données de la carte de la batterie et la mettre de côté

    Giovanni Gervasio - Responder

    At this point I Jump to step 30 . I do not use the liquid adhesive remover method. I use a silicone rubber kitchen food scooper. The scoop end is a soft, silicone rubber material with a beveled edge. The handle is a hard plastic. This tool I’ve used in about 50 retina battery swaps. No floss, credit cards or metal spatulas for me.. The angle of the ends and the rubber pliability combined with the hard plastic handle is ideal. After a few repairs you will get better at it. Be careful when applying pressure or leveraging to get between battery and base. You don’t want to slip & “overshoot” the scoop end into the logic board. EASY DOES IT…Save yourself the mess of applying the liquid. I can remove a battery in 10 minutes. Here’s the link to this tool that I found in my GF’s kitchen:

    https://www.amazon.com/Tovolo-Silicone-S...

    lamajr - Responder

    This and the dental floss are great ides that I wish I'd seen before following the method in this guide even though it worked, I think there are better ways.

    Kyle M Brown -

  24. The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display. To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    • Additionally, layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.

  25. Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself. iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
    • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

    Wenn das Trackpad ausgebaut ist, kann man den alten Akku auch ohne Klebstoffentferner relativ gut auslösen.

    Christian Düll - Responder

  26. Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover. Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip. This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

    Au moment de ma commande le kit complet avec le dissolvant ifixit n’était pas disponible, mais seulement la batterie sans accéssoires, j’ai utilisé quelques gouttes d’acétone à la place. la battéerie originale s’est décollée sans difficulté à l’aide d’une carte de credit

    Giovanni Gervasio - Responder

    Can I use isopropyl or ethanol instead?

    Johhnsy Jr. - Responder

    Petite astuce après une réparation fructueuse : pour simplifier cette étape, munissez vous d’un dissolvant fourni ou non, prenez les élastiques de masques chirurgicaux et imbibez le avec le dissolvant. À l’aide de cures-dents, l’insérer entre le châssis et la batterie puis faire un mouvement d’aller et retour tout en avançant au fur et à mesure que la batterie se décolle. Cette astuce m’a fait gagné beaucoup de temps et elle permet de ne pas endommager la batterie lorsque de son extraction. Plus sur, plus rapide et plus facile !

    A little tip after a successful repair: to simplify this step, take the surgical mask elastic bands and soak them with solvent. Using toothpicks, insert it between the frame and the battery then move back and forth while moving forward as the battery comes off. This trick saved me a lot of time and avoids damaging the battery when removing it. Safer, quicker and easier.

    Matthieu - Responder

    The glue remover is a mix of Acetone and Isopropyl alcohol I believe.

    Luke Lanza - Responder

  27. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the front edge of the battery cell that lies nearest the fan. You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the front edge of the battery cell that lies nearest the fan.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

  28. Tip the front edge of your MacBook Pro up at a slight angle so that the liquid adhesive remover flows underneath the battery cell.
    • Tip the front edge of your MacBook Pro up at a slight angle so that the liquid adhesive remover flows underneath the battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes before you proceed to the next step, in order to give the adhesive remover time to work.

  29. After 2-3 minutes have passed, slide a plastic card under the edge of the battery cell where you applied the adhesive remover. It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case. It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case.
    • After 2-3 minutes have passed, slide a plastic card under the edge of the battery cell where you applied the adhesive remover.

    • It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case.

    This was the hardest step for me. You just have to keep at it and add a little more adhesive remover if needed, it will eventually come up.

    Avi Ramu - Responder

    Agreed, hardest step. “Several drop” was not enough, I had to add more twice, so take your time.

    Just like on the picture, the corner close to the track pad seem to be a weak point, strat pushing the corner of the plastic card there.

    Adrien Bernede - Responder

    I used a thin plastic kitchen spatula which was easier to slide in under the battery, and cover a wider area than the plastic card.

    tommy404 - Responder

    There is a metal lip that blocks you from pushing it in. I recommend you start from the corner with the lifted metal part. (top left corner of battery in picture)

    Javier De la Garza - Responder

  30. Gently work the card deeper under the battery cell to break up the adhesive securing it in place. This should not require much force—the adhesive remover does most of the work. If you aren't able to get your card under the battery cell, apply a bit more adhesive remover as instructed above and wait 2-3 minutes before trying again.
    • Gently work the card deeper under the battery cell to break up the adhesive securing it in place.

    • This should not require much force—the adhesive remover does most of the work. If you aren't able to get your card under the battery cell, apply a bit more adhesive remover as instructed above and wait 2-3 minutes before trying again.

    They are RIGHT, let the acetone do the work. It did need more than a few drops, but not much more. Wait 3 min, apply again. Wait 3 min again. Then take the card and aim the point of the card toward the middle of the adhesive. Wiggle wiggle wiggle moderate pressure. It will penetrate the first strip and then work it left and right. Repeat for the next two strips.

    Richard Ness - Responder

  31. Twist the card to raise the battery cell until it fully separates from the aluminum case. Don't try to remove the battery cell completely just yet—it's still attached to the remaining cells.
    • Twist the card to raise the battery cell until it fully separates from the aluminum case.

    • Don't try to remove the battery cell completely just yet—it's still attached to the remaining cells.

  32. Leave the plastic card temporarily in place underneath the battery cell.
    • Leave the plastic card temporarily in place underneath the battery cell.

    • This prevents the cell from re-adhering to the case while you work on separating the remaining cells.

  33. Repeat the previous six steps to separate the other outer battery cell, on the opposite side. Repeat the previous six steps to separate the other outer battery cell, on the opposite side. Repeat the previous six steps to separate the other outer battery cell, on the opposite side.
    • Repeat the previous six steps to separate the other outer battery cell, on the opposite side.

  34. To separate the center battery cell, first raise the back edge of the MacBook Pro and prop it up on a foam block or book, so that the adhesive remover will flow away from the logic board. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover along the back edge of the battery cell. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover along the back edge of the battery cell.
    • To separate the center battery cell, first raise the back edge of the MacBook Pro and prop it up on a foam block or book, so that the adhesive remover will flow away from the logic board.

    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover along the back edge of the battery cell.

  35. Cutouts in the aluminum case between the center battery cell and trackpad may prevent the adhesive remover from flowing all the way underneath the battery. To compensate, apply a few more drops of adhesive remover along each side of the center battery cell.
    • Cutouts in the aluminum case between the center battery cell and trackpad may prevent the adhesive remover from flowing all the way underneath the battery.

    • To compensate, apply a few more drops of adhesive remover along each side of the center battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes before proceeding to the next step.

  36. Slide a plastic card under one of the side edges of the center battery cell. Try to keep your card well clear of the logic board.
    • Slide a plastic card under one of the side edges of the center battery cell.

    • Try to keep your card well clear of the logic board.

    • It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case.

    I don't see how starting from the side is even possible, it's too steep and the card is not flexible enough.

    I started from the top. To do so, I had to lift the battery control card (step 24) enough to be able to put the power connector (step 15) back below it. That way I could slide the card all the way.

    Because of the way the tutorial describe it, I was conservative on the quantity of remover. That may be why this step was not easy.

    Adrien Bernede - Responder

  37. Use the card to lift the battery cell until it fully separates from the aluminum case.
    • Use the card to lift the battery cell until it fully separates from the aluminum case.

  38. Lift and remove the battery. Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.
    • Lift and remove the battery.

    • Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each strip of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with a plastic tool. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

    • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

    Hi Jeff,

    Thank you for the great instructions! With a piece of dental floss it goes even better. Also it’s good to explain to shift the back cover out after removing the bolts. At the moment to put in the new batteries it’s the best to tighten the batteryprint first and at last to fix the batteries. Put three pieces of plastic under the batteries to prevent fixing too early to the bottom.

    Frans.

    Frans Beentjes - Responder

    Thanks for your comment! It was really essential since dropping the battery in the case without its control card being attached could have resulted in the impossibility to connect it.

    Adrien Bernede -

    I had a non-ifixit battery replacement fail due to battery wiring (flat coated copper) touching the sharp edge of the case aluminum. Eventually vibration caused the insulation to wear off and short the middle cell to the case. Failure after a couple weeks.

    Jeremy Hale - Responder

    Tuto au top.

    J’ai remplacé la batterie de mon MacBook Pro en suivant à la lettre ce Tuto.

    Un grand merci.

    Stephane RUE - Responder

    Overall good guide. The battery removal was by far the most difficult and time consuming.

    It's important to understand stand that the battery is separate from the mother board so you can get somewhat aggressive when removing the old battery without worrying about damaging it.

    Kyle M Brown - Responder

    As a general rule do not be rough with a lithium battery unless you like out of control lithium fires. It is best to use plenty of solvent and be as careful as possible while removing the old cells.

    London Kassner -

Conclusão

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Then use your device until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted back to 100%.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

61 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Jeff Suovanen

Membro desde: 06/08/2013

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24 comentários

Does the replacement battery comes with the same strong adhesive as the original battery?

Surgie - Responder

I ordered my battery for the 2017 version of the Macbook Pro with function keys from ebay and it didn’t came with a adhesive strip. I am sure you can use your own adhesive strips or double sided tape, as long as you mind the gabs on the aluminum frame,

Serj Nko -

Thanks for the great guide! Can you copy the guide to the Macbook Pro 2017 thread, as it’s exactly the same procedure for the function key version? It might be obvious for some “Pros” but I realized it after some trial and error odyssey.

Serj Nko - Responder

Hi Jeff,

Thank you for this great work to beat Apple greediness. I followed the exact steps and everything went well, but my battery is not charging nor the status is shown on the bar! I tried restarting and resetting and even restoring and it did not work would that be something you can help me with?

Bashar Khiatah - Responder

If the old battery still works, try putting it back in, and see if that clears up the problem. If it does, the new battery is defective.

Jeff Suovanen -

i did this one today with just 1 bankcard in 30min time no adhesive loosener needed no head needed…. you don’t even have to remove the mousepad…

i might have to start making my own repair guide….

demeyermike - Responder

Glad yours was easy! The strength of the adhesive can vary a lot depending on age, heat cycles, how much was applied at the factory, etc. I’ve seen a few that were easy and quite a few that were absolute monsters to remove. Most fall somewhere in between. This guide should have you covered in all cases, but it probably doesn’t hurt to poke and pry a little before you start, in case you lucked out and got an easy one. Just be very careful not to puncture the battery. Thanks for your comment!

Jeff Suovanen -

I can confirm that this guide also works word for word for a 2017 MacBook Pro with function keys. All I would add is that Step 7 requires considerable force!

Jon Worth - Responder

I did not remove the trackpad or use adhesive remover (Macbook Pro late 2017). Just need to get underneath the battery cells and push through the factory adhesive/tape. The entire process took around 30 min doing it this way; I’m handy, though no pro.

renob - Responder

Thank you! This excellent guide gave me a lot of confidence in the replacement of the battery. All went precisely according to plan.

Giovanni Gervasio - Responder

Excellent instructions. I did it slowly as it’s my first time with a Macbook Pro. Took me 90 minutes. I added some comments in steps 13-15 because the battery wasn’t connected properly on the first time.

tarex7 - Responder

I just completed the swap… awesome guide and really easy.

The only Problem i had was the missing data cable from the battery board to the logic board which was not included with the new battery. Thanks to some comments from other users I used the cable from the old battery.

Everything Else worked as described.

Mirko Bjelic - Responder

Great guide, thank you. I am replacing my battery and have a question about Step 13. Would it be possible to show how to disconnect this end of the cable (the hook end). I am having a hard time getting it out.

Thank you in advance for any help/advice.

r8w8 - Responder

Vielen Dank für die gute Anleitung. Der Akkutausch hat ohne Probleme sehr einfach in ca. einer Stunde geklappt.

Christian Düll - Responder

Thank you Jeff for the detailed and accurate guide.

Mario W - Responder

Worked just perfectly, thank you iFIXIT for doing what you do. Truly appreciated. Perfect instructions- just perfect!!

tgsavel - Responder

Thank you for the great guide! I did not want to ship my Mac to official Apple service centre - as I was advised I would need to wait one week for battery replacement and I needed laptop for my daily work. Decided to replace battery on my own. Thanks to this comprehensive guide I made it in 2 hours. I do appreciate clear and comprehensive way author has explained the procedure. Again big thank you! Also useful comments of users are appreciated. Thanks. Andrew

Andrew Pernisch - Responder

Petite astuce après une réparation fructueuse : pour simplifier cette étape, munissez vous d’un dissolvant fourni ou non, prenez les élastiques de masques chirurgicaux et imbibez le avec le dissolvant. À l’aide de cures-dents, l’insérer entre le châssis et la batterie puis faire un mouvement d’aller et retour tout en avançant au fur et à mesure que la batterie se décolle. Cette astuce m’a fait gagné beaucoup de temps et elle permet de ne pas endommager la batterie lorsque de son extraction. Plus sur, plus rapide et plus facile !

A little tip after a successful repair: to simplify this step, take the surgical mask elastic bands and soak them with solvent. Using toothpicks, insert it between the frame and the battery then move back and forth while moving forward as the battery comes off. This trick saved me a lot of time and avoids damaging the battery when removing it. Safer, quicker and easier.

Matthieu - Responder

good guide, but that adhesive did not come off easy. Used a Bank card and adhesive remover. everything else was smooth ad though ;)

Tommy HARDT - Responder

I suggest examining the two connection points of the skinny battery data cable. Possibly you failed to either, fully insert the cable or forgot to press the clamp down. Also, I believe Fixit fails to tell you to lift the clamp before removal and it is impossible to insert without lifting the clamp. You might need extra strong reading glasses to see it properly. Good luck.

David Hutzler - Responder

I need to buy one, but you guys don't ship to India, is there any way you guys can help ? i needed urgently/

Rohan Singh - Responder

Great guide, [br]

got the spare battery from your store and followed the guide. But now I have the issue that my macBook sometimes needs to be plugged in to wake/start even tough the battery got enough charge. could this be a battery related issue?

Tommy HARDT - Responder

Terrific guide, thank you very much!

Got a replacement battery from eBay (UK supplier) and didn't need any battery calibration or the like afterwards.

This was only my second replacement, and it's actually not that complicated. But the tiny screws and clamps and the sh%$&§y glue...

Speaking of glue: I can handle solvent (isopropanol etc.) but I wanted to minimize damage to the screen. So I took the butcher/surgeon approach and cut the battery out with the "plastic cards". Took a while but worked. Total time for first replacement 2 hours, second one 1 hour.

The adhesive strips of the replacement battery were not as strong as those of the original battery, but that may actually reflect aging and effect or repeated heating of the glue. In any case, the replacement battery sits tightly enough to not require any correction.

Cheers

Jochen Bergmann - Responder

I just did this and it worked a treat. Bought a replacement item from Amazon that had plenty of positive feedback and went to work. I used a plastic scraper and some solvent to get the batteries out and it was definitely the hardest part of the job - took at least an hour - that plus cleaning and prepping the surfaces for the new battery. [br]

[br]

But it was really therapeutic and when the computer booted up and Coconut showed me a healthy 100% functional battery the feeling was GREAT!

I made the mistake of removing the trackpad and had to realign it a couple of times but with this operation, I don't think it is necessary to remove it. I'd definitely be able to do it in half the time if I ever needed to again. :D

Adam - Responder

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