Ir para o conteúdo principal

Introdução

Use this guide to replace the fingerprint sensor on your Google Pixel 2.

  1. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. This also makes a smooth surface allowing the suction cup to bond. Apply a suction cup as close to the volume button edge of the phone as you can while avoiding the curved edge.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. This also makes a smooth surface allowing the suction cup to bond.

    • Apply a suction cup as close to the volume button edge of the phone as you can while avoiding the curved edge.

    • The suction cup will not make a good seal on the curved portion of the glass.

    My screen is severly cracked. I would recommend clear packaging tape as it is wide enough to accomodate the suction cup. Thinner cellophane tape won’t seal properly.

    John Tippitt - Responder

  2. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure and insert an opening pick between the front panel and rear case. Do not insert the pick deeper than 1.5 mm, or you risk damaging the OLED panel. This requires a significant amount of force and patience. If you have trouble, rock the suction cup and screen to weaken the adhesive, or apply heat with an iOpener,  heat gun, or hair dryer.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure and insert an opening pick between the front panel and rear case.

    • Do not insert the pick deeper than 1.5 mm, or you risk damaging the OLED panel.

    • This requires a significant amount of force and patience. If you have trouble, rock the suction cup and screen to weaken the adhesive, or apply heat with an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer.

    • The display panel is fragile. If you plan to re-use your display, take care to insert your tool only as far as necessary to separate the adhesive. Inserting the tool any further can damage the OLED panel under the glass.

    They cannot emphasize enough how careful you need to be when separating the screen. The iOpener does not work well enough to prevent breakage (opinion). I spent a majority of the hour and forty five minutes replacing my battery on removing the screen, i.e. reheating the iOpener, warming the device, slowly, with multiple passes, separating the adhesive. Use a heat gun or blow dryer.

    Devin McMillen - Responder

    How many passes do I need? I do have a heatgun but I’m afraid to discolor or damage the screen. Anyone know the best temp before stopping to seperate the screen?

    Sen Lin - Responder

    try the alcohol as instructed instead of heat. “Do not heat your phone. If needed, you can use a dropper or syringe to inject isopropyl alcohol (90+%) around the edges of the back cover to weaken the adhesive.  “

    Rogerio Sa - Responder

    Make sure to remove the adhesive under the top and bottom speakers to make it much easier to remove the screen.

    Chibi Chica - Responder

    Isopropyl alcohol works well to loosen the adhesive. However - GO SLOW. Slide the pick a bit, then apply some isopropyl alcohol into the gap where you’re sliding toward. Wait a moment, then slide a bit more. Move very slowly, particularly around the corners!

    Raquel Smith - Responder

    Any idea on what to do when the suction cup pops off of the screen before there’s enough clearance to slide the pick in?

    Douglas Leenhouts - Responder

    I used a hairdryer to weaken the adhesive. If you place your finger in the path of the hairdryer you’ll have a good idea of when too much heat has been applied (when your skin becomes unhappy at the temperature). BE VERY GENTLE. I cracked my screen because I didn’t weaken the adhesive enough. I also chipped(dog eared) the corner of the OLED screen underneath with one of the plastic tools. Don’t stick it in too far. As the guide says, use the flat edge or the pick to help control this.

    Alex Lawson - Responder

    I did the 90% alcohol and the iOpener. Took a while but finally got the screen off. As others have mentioned, there is lots of adhesive around the top and bottom speaker openings. I ended up reaching in with a small brush and more alcohol to get it. I used a tooth pick to break the final adhesive.

    I also had a set of dental tools and a set of magnifying goggles (I’m a model railroader) which helped greatly.

    John Reagan - Responder

    Like others have said, THIS STEP IS THE MOST DANGEROUS!!! You must be extremely gentle (no real force should be necessary to separate the screen from the glue) with the screen and take your time. (IMO if it takes you less than 30 mins to get the screen loose, your going too hard at it). Two suggestions from my successful battery replacement that I can give, use alcohol instead of heat (seems to work better with this phone) and start with a much thinner plastic tool that is also flexible (I used a metro card from the NYC MTA). This will allow you to get at the tiny gap without using any significant force and then get some alcohol into the gap by dripping it down the thin plastic tool. Honestly, IFIXIT should make a small thin rectangular card to use for this with lines around it for measurements…

    Aleksandr Demidenko - Responder

    The first pry to get the pick inside the edge of the screen needs A LOT OF HEAT and a very firm pull, and just as someone else mentioned, the iOpener did not work well, instead, a regular hair dryer proved more beneficial in applying a controlled amount of heat until its almost too hot to touch. Then, once the pick is inside 99% isopropyl alcohol worked wonders, use a syringe or dropper to apple some at the edge, wait for about 15 seconds and move the pick centimetre by centimetre. Make sure to not insert it more than 2mm at the sides. I took more than an hour just to get the screen off.

    A Sid - Responder

  3. In the following steps, extra caution is required in certain areas to avoid damage to the phone: Do not insert the pick more than 9 mm into the bottom edge of the phone. If the pick contacts the folded portion of the OLED panel it can damage the display.
    • In the following steps, extra caution is required in certain areas to avoid damage to the phone:

    • Do not insert the pick more than 9 mm into the bottom edge of the phone. If the pick contacts the folded portion of the OLED panel it can damage the display.

    • Only make very shallow cuts in the upper left corner, prying deeply can damage the front-facing camera.

    • Inserting an opening tool deeper than 1.5 mm into the sides of the device, or 9 mm into the top and bottom can permanently damage the display.

    This is inaccurate. The Pixel 2 phone’s back comes in two parts: a plastic main section and a glass back upper section. Only the glass section is required to be removed to replace the camera. Once the glass back is removed, the camera can easily be replaced without removing the motherboard, battery, or any other components. What is picture here looks like the original Google Pixel Phone.

    hunter alden - Responder

    Firstly, I disagree with hunter’s comment above - my Pixel 2 looked identical to this when I had it opened up.

    Secondly, the whole thing about 1.5mm at the sides - literally scared the cr*p out of me when I started this as it’s such a tiny margin - but what this doesn’t say is that you can see these limits on your phone - just turn the screen on and it’s where the display ends - the digitiser starts there and is a couple of mm deep - hence the need to be careful. You can also see it (though less obviously) when you have the screen off - the jet black part at the edge is where the adhesive is - just make sure you don’t push in past there. It’s not like you can’t make very gentle contact with the digitiser when clearing the adhesive - I believe it’s just any kind of real pressure which will render the screen useless.

    Dave Watts - Responder

    I think it would be helpful to highlight the adhesive patches around the microphone/speaker areas and that you do need to project your pick in quite a distance to break this adhesive. I think simply creating a highlighted tracing of all of the adhesive areas would be helpful and pretty simple to do. It is shown to some extent, but in my opinion it could be more clear. In all of the prefaced concerns for digging too deep, I spent extra time and effort carefully prying upward and cracked my screen and OLED rendering my phone useless. Eventually I decided to probe more deeply toward the mic/speaker and broke things loose which allowed me to remove the screen easily.

    Matt Escher - Responder

    Yes your right. I didn't e that and I disassembly the scree from it's digitiser layer. If i would know in advanced the adhesive borders it wouldn't happened.

    Ronen Stolarski -

    I took my time but a few times I slipped in more than I wanted. No harm. The bottom is the more tricky. The adhesive around the bottom opening goes right up against the ribbon cable for the screen. I got the edges unglued with alcohol & iOpener. I then gently pried the screen away and reached in with a small brush and more alcohol. I then used a toothpick to break the last pieces of adhesive.

    John Reagan - Responder

    Besides the adhesive at the edges, there are 2 rectangular shaped adhesive patches at the top (around the speaker) and bottom (around the microphone). These are pretty thick, but can be easily chipped away with the pick. You start to see these as you gently lift the screen upwards with the suction cup and peer inside (use a flashlight). I did not need to use a heat gun or blow dryer. Just the pick and some isopropyl alcohol.

    Hasan Akhter - Responder

    Use isopropyl alcohol with a syringe at the top and bottom speaker to weaken the adhesive, gently pull apart (about 2mm) and use a finer piece of plastic (like a milky file plastic sheet) to cut through the adhesive at the speakers, but still do not take the screen off completely yet! After extensively reading about failed attempts to get the screen off (instances where people damaged the OLED underneath) one thing is in common: few devices have little adhesive underneath the ribbon cable as well, which people failed to notice and while separating the screen and in turn, damaged the OLED because of the pull from the ribbon cable. Thanks to having this information beforehand I found the same issue in my phone after I separated the screen (not completely) from the frame, I used a piece of finer sheet of plastic to cut the adhesive holding the ribbon cable. You will have to be extremely patient and take your time.

    A Sid - Responder

  4. In the following steps, use the flat of the opening pick, rather than a corner, to cut here. This will help prevent inserting the pick too deeply. Slide the opening pick up the right side of the phone to separate the display adhesive.
    • In the following steps, use the flat of the opening pick, rather than a corner, to cut here. This will help prevent inserting the pick too deeply.

    • Slide the opening pick up the right side of the phone to separate the display adhesive.

    • Take extra care with the side bezels, which are only 1.5 mm deep.

  5. Slide the opening pick around the upper-right corner and along the top edge of the phone. Slide the opening pick around the upper-right corner and along the top edge of the phone. Slide the opening pick around the upper-right corner and along the top edge of the phone.
    • Slide the opening pick around the upper-right corner and along the top edge of the phone.

    Leaving one pick inserted at each corner will help prevent it from sticking back.

    A Sid - Responder

  6. Slide the pick around the upper-left corner of the phone and down the left edge of the phone. Slide the pick around the upper-left corner of the phone and down the left edge of the phone. Slide the pick around the upper-left corner of the phone and down the left edge of the phone.
    • Slide the pick around the upper-left corner of the phone and down the left edge of the phone.

  7. Slide the pick around the bottom-left corner and along the bottom of the phone. Keep pick at a slight angle away from the screen to avoid damage to the OLED corners. Take extra care not to insert the opening pick more than 9 mm to avoid damaging the OLED panel. Take extra care not to insert the opening pick more than 9 mm to avoid damaging the OLED panel.
    • Slide the pick around the bottom-left corner and along the bottom of the phone. Keep pick at a slight angle away from the screen to avoid damage to the OLED corners.

    • Take extra care not to insert the opening pick more than 9 mm to avoid damaging the OLED panel.

  8. Reinsert the pick at the top edge of the phone and gently pry up the display. If the display doesn't readily lift, do some extra prying to separate the last of the adhesive. The adhesive near the upper speaker is thicker than other places.
    • Reinsert the pick at the top edge of the phone and gently pry up the display.

    • If the display doesn't readily lift, do some extra prying to separate the last of the adhesive. The adhesive near the upper speaker is thicker than other places.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as a fragile ribbon cable still connects it to the phone's motherboard.

    This for me was by far the hardest step. What this guide fails to say is just how much adhesive you’ll encounter - mine was heaving with the stuff - so I wouldn’t attempt this fix without the rubbing alcohol, and I would be prepared to spend 30 mins on this - the images above make it look like as soon as you can get the pick in and around the whole phone the display will come off - this wasn’t true on mine, and I put a small crack in the top of my screen as I applied a little pressure to lever the top - the edges were ok, but there was so much adhesive at the top and bottom - right down and around the speaker grills - that I used scissors to cut the remaining strands as I managed to lift the screen higher enough! Don’t be shy with the rubbing alcohol, it really helps - and you really need to feel all sides loosen properly before you attempt to lever - but if you’re patient, it’ll be ok.

    Dave Watts - Responder

  9. Carefully lay the display down on top of the rear case as shown, making sure not to crease or tear the display ribbon cable. Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws securing the display cable bracket.
    • Carefully lay the display down on top of the rear case as shown, making sure not to crease or tear the display ribbon cable.

    • Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws securing the display cable bracket.

  10. Remove the display cable bracket.
    • Remove the display cable bracket.

  11. Use the point of a spudger to lift the display cable connector up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Avoid touching the motherboard with the tip of your spudger. The components surrounding the socket are fragile.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the display cable connector up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Avoid touching the motherboard with the tip of your spudger. The components surrounding the socket are fragile.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

    • During reassembly, pause here and replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

    Wow, I think I damaged my motherboard on this step. It would be helpful if there was a warning in this step to avoid doing that! Now my pixel 2 is reduced to a cool paperweight with a static display.

    Zach Laporte - Responder

    Yep, there’s a small surface mounted component below the connector that is super easy to dislodge from the circuit board. Shown in this YouTube video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BEpgqpI.... Unfortunately, the part is smaller than a grain of sand, so not really practical for the average fixer to put back on the board.

    jlyonsmith - Responder

    I also knocked the tiny chip off of the board while removing the ribbon cable in this step. Use the spudger exactly how it’s shown in the photos.

    John Ware - Responder

  12. Apply a heated iOpener to the proximity sensor on the top edge of the midframe for two minutes to soften its adhesive.
    • Apply a heated iOpener to the proximity sensor on the top edge of the midframe for two minutes to soften its adhesive.

    Isopropyl alcohol worked quickly for this

    Raquel Smith - Responder

  13. Slide the point of a spudger under the proximity sensor cable, starting from the side closest to the front-facing camera. Gently lift the edge of the sensor cable until the sensor is perpendicular to the midframe.
    • Slide the point of a spudger under the proximity sensor cable, starting from the side closest to the front-facing camera.

    • Gently lift the edge of the sensor cable until the sensor is perpendicular to the midframe.

    This piece is actually glued down - heat and rubbing alcohol really helped as at first I couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t get it to move.

    Dave Watts - Responder

  14. Peel back the small piece of tape covering the screw below the earpiece speaker. Peel back any tape covering other screws as well.
    • Peel back the small piece of tape covering the screw below the earpiece speaker. Peel back any tape covering other screws as well.

    • Remove the following screws securing the midframe:

    • Eleven 3.7 mm Phillips screws

    • One 4 mm T5 Torx screw

    On my Pixel 2, I also had to peel back a small strip of conductive tape that was directly above (and the same kind as) the “screw below the earpiece speaker” mentioned above. It appears to be a ground strap to the assembly underneath.

    Jonathan Dubovsky - Responder

    Me too! Please change the photo?

    Andrew Hoeveler - Responder

    If you don't peel the mesh tape up, it will year. I'm not sure if it plays into the screen potentially not working, but it seems to be a ground for the midframe and the display ribbon has a ground contact to the

    Wesley Krueger - Responder

    Many of the screws would not come out due to the original threadlocker on the threads. I found that if I just kept moving them around with a toothpick, I could get the out. I also had one of those telescoping magnetic bolt grabbers that pulled the screws out.

    John Reagan - Responder

  15. Insert an opening tool into the notch in the midframe near the hold button. Pry the midframe up enough to create a gap between it and the phone case. The midframe cannot yet be completely removed.
    • Insert an opening tool into the notch in the midframe near the hold button.

    • Pry the midframe up enough to create a gap between it and the phone case. The midframe cannot yet be completely removed.

    This is to pop a securing tab out it's place

    Wesley Krueger - Responder

    On re-assembly make sure the securing tab, near the notch you use to open it, is inserted back under the frame again - this caused me to have to re-open my phone as my screen didn’t sit back down properly after I had put everything back together.

    Dave Watts - Responder

    It is more effort than I anticipated. I really thought I was going to break it, but it was fine.

    John Reagan - Responder

  16. Lift the midframe up starting from the bottom edge. When the midframe starts to make about a 45° with the rest of the phone, lift the midframe straight up and away from the phone. As you lift the midfame, carefully guide the proximity sensor through the small slot in the midframe.
    • Lift the midframe up starting from the bottom edge.

    • When the midframe starts to make about a 45° with the rest of the phone, lift the midframe straight up and away from the phone.

    • As you lift the midfame, carefully guide the proximity sensor through the small slot in the midframe.

    While not shown here in the photo, there is a short braided cable between the midframe and the motherboard near the front facing camera that prevents separating the midframe completely (ground?). Be careful not to damage this cable when completing the remaining steps or carefully remove before trying to separate the midframe completely.

    ericdowens - Responder

    As ericdowens says above, there’s a small silver sliver of a connector (next to the front-facing camera). The guides on youtube said it was a grounding wire. This guide doesn’t mention it. Mine broke when I removed the midframe. No big deal. I stuck it back down with some tape when I put it all back together. Phone works fine.

    Alex Lawson - Responder

    I had a heck of a time levering up the midframe. I had popped the side with the opening tool, but the other side was really stuck. I used some alcohol along the edge thinking there was some adhesive. Not sure. I eventually used a dental pick to pop it loose.

    And when reinstalling, don’t forget to move the short braided cable back out of the way so you don’t trap it inside.

    John Reagan - Responder

  17. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector.

    This photo and tutorial doesn't show the shielding on the chips of the motherboard. And the glue…My pixel 2 had the volume button ribbon cable glued to the shielding. Carefully pry the cable off. Very carefully slide under it. Maybe use a little heat to soften the glue. You cannot just remove the motherboard with removing the ribbon cable for the volume buttons.

    A and S Frostad - Responder

  18. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the charging assembly connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the charging assembly connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the charging assembly connector.

    Removing the battery is not necessary to replace the motherboard, steps 19-21 can be omitted

    Robert - Responder

    Hi Robert,

    Thanks for the input! I’ve re-ordered the guide to remove the unnecessary steps.

    Arthur Shi -

    Thank you Robert

    shady mohamed -

  19. Fill a plastic dropper or syringe with high concentration isopropyl alcohol and apply a few drops of alcohol under each corner of the battery. Give the alcohol a minute to weaken the battery adhesive.
    • Fill a plastic dropper or syringe with high concentration isopropyl alcohol and apply a few drops of alcohol under each corner of the battery. Give the alcohol a minute to weaken the battery adhesive.

    • Alternatively, apply a heated iOpener to the back of the phone over the battery for at least two minutes. Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed until the battery adhesive is sufficiently weakened.

  20. Hold the charging assembly cable out of the way and insert an opening pick along the bottom edge of the battery. Apply steady, even pressure to slowly lever the battery up and out of the phone.
    • Hold the charging assembly cable out of the way and insert an opening pick along the bottom edge of the battery.

    • Apply steady, even pressure to slowly lever the battery up and out of the phone.

    • Only pry from the center of the battery to avoid damaging the delicate ribbon cables beneath either side of the battery.

    • Try your best not to deform the battery during this process. Soft-shell lithium-ion batteries can leak dangerous chemicals, catch fire, or even explode if damaged. Do not use excessive force or pry at the battery with metal tools.

    • If you are having trouble, apply some more alcohol under the battery and try again.

    This is another place where the amount of adhesive they’d used in the factory seemed understated - it took ages and plenty of heat and rubbing alcohol to get the battery out. Again, patience was needed - and I thought I might have messed it all up as I must have missed the “only pry from the centre” comment in the guide and went under the right and left bottom corners with a cotton bud and rubbing alcohol - I was lucky I think.

    Dave Watts - Responder

    With the bottom of the phone resting against the iOpener, I used leverage with one of the plastic picks from the top and bottom of the batter and blue opening tool from the left side (below the volume rocker). It gripped it perfectly where I could pull it up a bit and slide the pick further underneath. Be careful of the volume ribbon cable (thin copper color at the top right of the battery) and what I assume to be an antenna cable. - a single thin black wire leading around the bottom left of the battery itself.

    Avi Baron - Responder

    I think those cables to the left and right are for the “squeeze” sensors on the case.

    I used lots of alcohol as other suggested. I got it out.

    John Reagan - Responder

    • Remove the battery.

    • Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

    • To install a new battery:

    • Use a spudger to scrape away any remaining adhesive from the phone, and clean the glued areas with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.

    • Secure the new battery with pre-cut adhesive or double-sided adhesive tape. In order to position it correctly, apply the new adhesive into the phone, not directly onto the battery. The adhesive should not touch any of the cables under the battery.

    • Press the battery firmly into place for 20-30 seconds.

    Why I have to replace the battery if it doing well??!!

    And is it necessary to remove the battery to reinstall the rear camera?

    shady mohamed - Responder

    Lithium-ion batteries are susceptible to damage when they are bent or creased—the thin layers inside the battery may short, resulting in swelling and potential fire hazard.

    You should be able to replace the rear camera without removing the battery. I will adjust the rear camera guide to reflect this.

    Arthur Shi -

    Re-assembly note -

    Getting the battery to connect to the charging cable was a challenge for me. However, once it’s connected, if there’s any juice in the battery or if you want to be brave and plug it in, you can test to see if the phone is receiving power by trying to start it up and seeing if it vibrates. The combination of gently adjusting the charging cable, testing power, testing power with the phone plugged in got me to identify when the cable was attached properly.

    Using my squishy finger worked better for re-attaching that cable than using the spudger.

    This is a much better place to test for power than continuing reassembly and finding out it doesn’t work. If the phone cables are connected correctly and the battery has power (mine shipped with some charge in it), the phone will vibrate when you hold power.

    Thomas - Responder

    Like Thomas, getting the battery cable back was a pain as my positioning of the new battery made the u-shaped cable slightly askew. I finally got it. I was afraid I was going to bend a pin but all good. And I also did the “press power and check for vibrate” trick. The battery (as I would later see) was 52% out of the box.

    John Reagan - Responder

    Once you remove the battery, you may notice parallel lines of adhesives on both sides of the surface, where the battery was. No need to scrape away these lines. They should be still sticky and usable. Removing these would be a hassle. Just add a strip or two of the double sided adhesives in the middle where the battery was, before putting in your new battery.

    Hasan Akhter - Responder

    after adding the battery, the turn on a vibrate trick does work, it vibrates, but then it never does again, and the display does not turn on:/ charging it for 10 min did nothing

    Martin The Orange - Responder

    Thanks to Thomas, I did the turning on to know if it vibrated or not trick, and in my case, it did not. I had to plug out the battery connection and plug it in again with a finger and it was then when I heard a little “click” sound, and then the phone vibrated. You have to ensure that the battery side connector, sits right over the battery connection, before pressing it firmly.

    A Sid - Responder

  21. use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the charging assembly connector from the motherboard. use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the charging assembly connector from the motherboard.
    • use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the charging assembly connector from the motherboard.

  22. Insert a paperclip or SIM eject tool into the small hole on the left side of the phone and push until the SIM card tray pops out. Remove the SIM card tray. Remove the SIM card tray.
    • Insert a paperclip or SIM eject tool into the small hole on the left side of the phone and push until the SIM card tray pops out.

    • Remove the SIM card tray.

  23. Remove the two 2.5 mm PH00 screws.
    • Remove the two 2.5 mm PH00 screws.

  24. Disconnect two connectors at the bottom edge of the motherboard. Disconnect two connectors at the bottom edge of the motherboard. Disconnect two connectors at the bottom edge of the motherboard.
    • Disconnect two connectors at the bottom edge of the motherboard.

  25. Pry up the motherboard using a plastic opening tool. Remove the motherboard.
    • Pry up the motherboard using a plastic opening tool.

    • Remove the motherboard.

  26. Flip the motherboard over. Disconnect the fingerprint sensor cable. The motherboard is now completely detached from the phone.
    • Flip the motherboard over.

    • Disconnect the fingerprint sensor cable.

    • The motherboard is now completely detached from the phone.

  27. Flip the device over so that the display side is facing the ground. Use your hand to push the fingerprint sensor down toward the inside of the phone.
    • Flip the device over so that the display side is facing the ground.

    • Use your hand to push the fingerprint sensor down toward the inside of the phone.

  28. Flip the device over again so that the display side is facing up. Remove the fingerprint sensor.
    • Flip the device over again so that the display side is facing up.

    • Remove the fingerprint sensor.

Conclusão

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

4 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Taylor Sanders

Membro desde: 24/01/2018

515 Reputação

2 Guias de autoria

Equipe

Cal Poly, Team S18-G5, Livingston Winter 2018 Membro de Cal Poly, Team S18-G5, Livingston Winter 2018

CPSU-LIVINGSTON-W18S18G5

4 Membros

11 Guias de autoria

Replacing the fingerprint sensor. I’m a Medical Device Electronics Technician. Specifically electronic repairs. Everything I repair is designed to be repaired and I have the facilities at hand, to make professional repairs that are FDA certified processes. I’ve tried replacing displays, batteries, and now a fingerprint detector. Thing about most phones is they require heat to both open and re-seal. Think Ametek Hermetic Board sealers. Douglas sandwich sealers. My Pixel 2 finger print sensor got scratched and stopped working. For my Pixel I was unsucessful in reinstalling the display. I got it all back together and working . After 2 weeks the device stopped working reliably. The display peeled off and I was unable to get it to recognize touch. VERY sensitive repairs. It’s why they are assembled in Class 100 clean rooms. A piece of lint is all it takes to short a pixel.

Incredible they charge what they do for a device that cannot be repaired. The phone itself is a inegrated circuit. Insane.

William Hilow - Responder

Adicione um comentário

Exibir estatísticas:

Últimas 24 horas: 1

Últimos 7 dias: 3

Últimos 30 dias: 17

Duração total: 3,323