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Backstitch on a Loose Hem

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  1. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Intro to the backstitch: passo 1, imagem 1 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Intro to the backstitch: passo 1, imagem 2 %32
    • The backstitch is one of the strongest hand sewing stitches.

    • Structure - This technique forms a solid line of stitches on the fabric surface while creating a double-length stitch on the backside.

    • Repair Use - Commonly used in hand sewn repairs as a substitute for machine stitching. Its looping structure provides strength, stability, and slight elasticity when pulled.

  2. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Assess the damage: passo 2, imagem 1 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Assess the damage: passo 2, imagem 2 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Assess the damage: passo 2, imagem 3 %32
    • Locate the area with missing stitching and trim away any loose or hanging threads.

    • Mark the new stitch line with chalk or a heat-erasable pen.

    • If stitch holes from the previous stitching are visible, these can be used as a guide for the new stitch line.

    • If the opening is larger than a few inches, use pins or binder clips to secure the pieces of fabric together while sewing.

  3. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Start the stitch: passo 3, imagem 1 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Start the stitch: passo 3, imagem 2 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Start the stitch: passo 3, imagem 3 %32
    • Thread the needle with a length of thread approximately 24 inches (~61 cm) long and tie a knot at one end of the thread. For more details see Needles and Thread.

    • The pictured repair uses contrast thread for visibility, but matching thread will make this repair almost invisible.

    • From the backside of the seam, pierce the needle through to the front, overlapping any existing stitching by at least 1/2 inch (~13 mm).

    • If the seam doesn't have a front and backside, choose either.

    • Pull the thread through until the knot lies flush against the fabric.

  4. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: passo 4, imagem 1 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: passo 4, imagem 2 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: passo 4, imagem 3 %32
    • From the front side, pierce the seam one stitch length behind the point where the thread emerges, moving in the opposite direction of the stitching path.

    • Pull needle and thread through to the backside.

  5. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: passo 5, imagem 1 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: passo 5, imagem 2 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: passo 5, imagem 3 %32
    • From the backside, pierce the seam two stitch lengths forward, moving in the direction of the stitching path.

    • Pull the needle and thread through to the front side.

    • Repeat steps 4 and 5 to create a continuous backstitch along the marked seam line.

  6. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Stitch in one movement: passo 6, imagem 1 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Stitch in one movement: passo 6, imagem 2 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Stitch in one movement: passo 6, imagem 3 %32
    • To backstitch without repeatedly flipping the fabric, insert the needle into the seam one stitch length behind the current position and guide it to exit one stitch length forward.

    • The working thread should lie in the middle of the needle's entry and exit points.

    • Pull the thread through to secure the stitch.

    • This method is quicker but more prone to tangling on the backside. Periodically check that the thread is pulling through smoothly.

  7. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Tie off the thread: passo 7, imagem 1 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Tie off the thread: passo 7, imagem 2 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Tie off the thread: passo 7, imagem 3 %32
    • Continue until the original stitch has been overlapped by at least 1/2 inch (13 mm) and finish with the needle on the backside.

    • Without pulling the needle all the way through, begin making a small stitch on the backside of the fabric.

    • Wrap the working thread around the needle point three times.

    • Pull the needle through the fabric and loops of thread. The wrapped thread will create a knot that lies flush with the fabric.

    • For a more detailed explanation see Knot Thread to the Fabric (2 Ways).

  8. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Trim the thread: passo 8, imagem 1 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Trim the thread: passo 8, imagem 2 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Trim the thread: passo 8, imagem 3 %32
    • Ensure the knot is secure, then snip away excess thread.

  9. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Quality check: passo 9, imagem 1 %32
    • Ensure the stitch securely closes the seam and can withstand tension.

    • Add additional lines of stitching if necessary.

  10. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Troubleshooting: passo 10, imagem 1 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Troubleshooting: passo 10, imagem 2 %32 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Troubleshooting: passo 10, imagem 3 %32
    • TANGLED THREAD: To address tangles or knots in the thread:

    • Start by using the tip of the needle to work the knot loose.

    • If this fails, gently tug on either end of the thread to pull out the knot.

    • If this method is also unsuccessful, cut the thread and start a new stitch, overlapping previous stitches by at least 1/2 inch (~13 mm).

    • Ensure any knot is cut out completely.

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