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Introdução

Use this guide to replace the I/O daughterboard in your Samsung Galaxy S8. Components that would warrant replacement of the daughterboard include a damaged USB-C connector or microphone.

This guide involves removing the rear glass cover, you will need replacement adhesive to reattach the back cover to the phone.

Before disassembling your phone, discharge the battery below 25%. The battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured, but the chances of that happening are much lower if discharged.

Vídeo de Apresentação

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Responder

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Responder

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Responder

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Responder

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - Responder

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Responder

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Responder

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Responder

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

    Regards,

    Cedric

    Cedric VINCENT - Responder

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - Responder

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - Responder

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Responder

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Responder

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Responder

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Responder

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Responder

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Responder

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Responder

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Responder

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Responder

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Responder

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Responder

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Responder

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Responder

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Responder

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Responder

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Responder

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Responder

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Responder

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Responder

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Responder

  3. Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Responder

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Responder

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Responder

  4. Opening your phone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement adhesive ready before you proceed, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your phone without replacing the adhesive.
    • Opening your phone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement adhesive ready before you proceed, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your phone without replacing the adhesive.

    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to a long edge of the S8 for about 2 minutes.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the phone warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the OLED display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

    • As you're waiting for the adhesive to soften, move on and read the following step to get an idea of where to pry.

    What type of adhesive should be used to seal? Or better said, what would you recommend.

    Ion Ion - Responder

    I’d recommend precut adhesive designed for the rear cover. If that’s not available, thin, hi-bond double sided tape like 1 mm wide Tesa 61395 tape will work well.

    Adam O'Camb -

    When using a plate to warm things up, at what temp (celsius) should it be to avoid over heating?

    offer423 - Responder

  5. In the following steps you will be cutting through the adhesive around the edge of the rear glass panel. The adhesive on the rear case is laid out as seen in the first image.
    • In the following steps you will be cutting through the adhesive around the edge of the rear glass panel.

    • The adhesive on the rear case is laid out as seen in the first image.

    • The prying pattern as seen from the outside of the phone is as follows:

    • Thick portions of adhesive

    • Thin areas of adhesive

    • Avoid prying here, to protect the fingerprint sensor.

  6. Once the back panel is warm to the touch, apply a suction cup as close to the heated edge of the phone as you can while avoiding the curved edge. The suction cup will not make a good seal on the curved portion of the glass.
    • Once the back panel is warm to the touch, apply a suction cup as close to the heated edge of the phone as you can while avoiding the curved edge.

    • The suction cup will not make a good seal on the curved portion of the glass.

    • If the phone's back cover is cracked, the suction cup may not stick. Try lifting it with strong tape, or superglue the suction cup in place and allow it to cure so you can proceed.

    • Lift on the suction cup, and insert a halberd spudger, or opening pick, under the rear glass.

    • Due to the curved glass, you will be pushing up, rather than inserting parallel to the plane of the phone.

    We can't seem to get anything between the edges even after heating the back panel. Any tips?

    Megan Kennington - Responder

    Hi Megan, unfortunately the adhesive is super tough on this one. I’d recommend carefully continuing to apply heat, very gradually so that you don’t accidentally overheat the battery. Eventually you should be able to get a little gap with the suction handle.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I’ve been attempting to get the adhesive to loosen for four hours now. Exactly how much time is this supposed to take? The pictures makes it look like it should be easy. The adhesive still hasn’t budged and I’m beyond frustrated.

    Lori Lucas - Responder

    Hi Lori, sorry to hear the adhesive is being extra stubborn! If reheating and reapplying the iOpener isn’t working, you can try heating the edge with a hairdryer or heat gun. That way you can get more heat onto the edge faster, but be very careful not to overheat the battery inside.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I used a stanley knife - very carefully, after trying for several hours to get the adhesive to loosen. I bought another back cover with adhesive for the assmbley, which is the best option in my opinion. Just be careful not the scratch the case of the phone, and be prepared for the back glass cover to break when removing it.

    James wright - Responder

    The iOpener was a good idea but it just didn’t work. I used the heat gun on low and got it off in about 7 min. 30 min to clean off the excess adhesive. The directions stopped at removing the battery. What the !&&*??? is there a trick to plugging in the battery. Mentioning the need to seat the loudspeaker assembly and the NFC antenna - charging coil would have been helpful. Also, directions on seating the adhesive for the battery. Finally, directions on placing the seal would have been good. I ham handedly got it but needed to use the added adhesive that was sent with the kit. Overall took about an hour. I’m kinda psycho over making sure all the old adhesive was removed. Used the heat gun to reseat backing. worked great! Need to revamp the directions with items above but the kit had everything (except heat gum) and things I didn’t need.(likely to cover other installs.) Worried about breaking glass back but no problem. Thanks for the kit.

    Richard Werbelow - Responder

  7. Once you have the tool firmly inserted into the glass, reheat and reapply the iOpener to soften the adhesive.
    • Once you have the tool firmly inserted into the glass, reheat and reapply the iOpener to soften the adhesive.

  8. Slide an opening pick or the blade of a Halberd spudger down the side of the phone, separating the adhesive. Go slowly so that the tool doesn't slip out of the seam. If cutting becomes difficult, reheat and reapply the iOpener.
    • Slide an opening pick or the blade of a Halberd spudger down the side of the phone, separating the adhesive.

    • Go slowly so that the tool doesn't slip out of the seam. If cutting becomes difficult, reheat and reapply the iOpener.

  9. Repeat the previous heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone. Leave an opening pick on each side as you continue to the next to prevent the adhesive from resealing. Leave an opening pick on each side as you continue to the next to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
    • Repeat the previous heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone.

    • Leave an opening pick on each side as you continue to the next to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

    Petite erreur: le guide dit iPhone au lieu de S7 :)

    Nicolas Duthilleul - Responder

    Bonjour Nicolas ! Merci pour la remarque ;-) Nous l’avons prise en compte et corrigé la traduction. La prochaine fois, n’hésitez pas à corriger directement en cliquant sur le bouton Traduire en haut à droite de l’étape.

    Claire Rapp -

  10. The fingerprint sensor cable connects the phone to the rear glass near the main camera. The cable is very short and should disconnect as the rear glass is removed. As you lift the glass, peek in to be sure the orange cable with a blue connector has disconnected.
    • The fingerprint sensor cable connects the phone to the rear glass near the main camera. The cable is very short and should disconnect as the rear glass is removed.

    • As you lift the glass, peek in to be sure the orange cable with a blue connector has disconnected.

    • Use the opening picks to slice through any remaining adhesive and open the phone slightly.

    • If the fingerprint sensor cable seems snagged or stays taut do not open the phone any further. Disconnect the connector with the point of a spudger before proceeding.

    • During reassembly, in order to reconnect the fingerprint sensor cable, first angle the back cover into position until the cable connector lines up perfectly over its socket. Then, use the flat end of your spudger to gently snap the connector into place by pressing it straight down.

    • Remove the glass from the phone.

    For reassembly, if the fingerprint scanner is removed from the back cover: it’s much easier to place the fingerprint scanner in the small compartment on the back of the phone, connect it and then finally put the replacement back cover on. The adhesive on the inside of the back cover will get connect to the fingerprint scanner and hold it tightly.

    Brian Hoffmann - Responder

    The NFC antenna and coil assembly might get stick to the back cover due to adhesive spreads while trying to pry the back cover to open the phone. Take a look inside to ensure the assebly has not got sticked. If so, try using a credit card like plastic to get it peeled of from back cover without breaking the assembly always paying attention to the fingerprint sensor as well.

    dcode - Responder

  11. Follow this guide to reinstall the back cover and replace the adhesive.
    • Follow this guide to reinstall the back cover and replace the adhesive.

    • Be sure to turn on your phone and test your repair before installing new adhesive and resealing the phone.

    • If desired, you may reinstall the back cover without replacing the adhesive. Remove any large chunks of adhesive that might prevent the back cover from sitting down flush. After installation, heat the back cover and apply pressure to secure it. It won't be waterproof, but the glue is usually more than strong enough to hold.

    Bonjour,

    Vous parlez d’ajouter de l’adhésif, comment et où le trouve-t-on cet adhésif ?

    Difficile à appliquer ?

    Cordialement,

    Stéphane

    Steph D - Responder

    Mille excuses, je viens de voir les “adhesive strips” :)

    Steph D - Responder

    I broke the rear glass trying to get all the adhesive off! Be very careful!!

    jimhunz - Responder

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  13. Remove eleven 3.7 mm screws.
    • Remove eleven 3.7 mm screws.

    Are all the screws the same size? I do not have a way to organize every little screw and part of this phone.

    Gavin Clark - Responder

    Hi Gavin, all the screws in this step are 3.7 mm long, so you can safely swap these screws with one another.

    Adam O'Camb -

  14. Remove the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly. Remove the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly.
    • Remove the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly.

    I had to pry off the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly from the back cover. The adhesive probably spread a little bit while prying around the phone sticking some part of the NCF antenna and coild assembly sticked to the back cover. I had to use a credit card like pice of plastic to get it unsticked from the back cover without bearking it.

    dcode - Responder

  15. Remove three 3.7 mm Phillips #000 screws.
    • Remove three 3.7 mm Phillips #000 screws.

  16. Remove the loudspeaker assembly.
    • Remove the loudspeaker assembly.

    I was able to pry the battery without having to removing the loudspeaker assembly.

    dcode - Responder

  17. Insert a SIM card opening tool into the small hole on the left side of the top edge of the phone. Press to eject the tray. Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.
    • Insert a SIM card opening tool into the small hole on the left side of the top edge of the phone.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

  18. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector. Although the battery is not shown in the next steps, there is no need to remove it for this guide. Just disconnect the battery and you're good to go.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector.

    • Although the battery is not shown in the next steps, there is no need to remove it for this guide. Just disconnect the battery and you're good to go.

  19. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the sensor array connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the sensor array connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the sensor array connector.

  20. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera connector.

  21. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display and digitizer connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display and digitizer connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display and digitizer connector.

  22. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect two antenna cables that connect the motherboard to the daughterboard. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect two antenna cables that connect the motherboard to the daughterboard. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect two antenna cables that connect the motherboard to the daughterboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect two antenna cables that connect the motherboard to the daughterboard.

  23. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect an antenna ribbon cable that connects the motherboard to the daughterboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect an antenna ribbon cable that connects the motherboard to the daughterboard.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect an antenna ribbon cable that connects the motherboard to the daughterboard.

  24. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the motherboard and disconnect it from the daughterboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the motherboard and disconnect it from the daughterboard.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the motherboard and disconnect it from the daughterboard.

  25. Lift the motherboard out of the phone. Careful not to snag the battery connector if you chose not to remove the battery.
    • Lift the motherboard out of the phone.

    • Careful not to snag the battery connector if you chose not to remove the battery.

    Comment enlever l'appareil photo arrière ?

    Easy Repair - Responder

  26. Remove one 3 mm Phillips #000 screw.
    • Remove one 3 mm Phillips #000 screw.

  27. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack connector. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack connector.

  28. Insert the point of a spudger in between the headphone jack and the board, against the corner of the jack closest to the ribbon cable. Use the spudger to gently pry the headphone jack out of the board. Remove the headphone jack.
    • Insert the point of a spudger in between the headphone jack and the board, against the corner of the jack closest to the ribbon cable.

    • Use the spudger to gently pry the headphone jack out of the board.

    • Remove the headphone jack.

  29. Use tweezers to pull the two antenna cables out of their slot next to the battery compartment. Use tweezers to pull the two antenna cables out of their slot next to the battery compartment. Use tweezers to pull the two antenna cables out of their slot next to the battery compartment.
    • Use tweezers to pull the two antenna cables out of their slot next to the battery compartment.

  30. Use tweezers to continue to remove the antenna cables from their slot. Use tweezers to continue to remove the antenna cables from their slot. Use tweezers to continue to remove the antenna cables from their slot.
    • Use tweezers to continue to remove the antenna cables from their slot.

  31. Remove five 3 mm Phillips #000 screws.
    • Remove five 3 mm Phillips #000 screws.

  32. Gently fold the motherboard connector toward the bottom of the phone and out of the way of the antenna ribbon cable. Gently fold the motherboard connector toward the bottom of the phone and out of the way of the antenna ribbon cable.
    • Gently fold the motherboard connector toward the bottom of the phone and out of the way of the antenna ribbon cable.

  33. Use tweezers to gently peel the antenna ribbon cable off of the side of the case. Use tweezers to gently peel the antenna ribbon cable off of the side of the case.
    • Use tweezers to gently peel the antenna ribbon cable off of the side of the case.

  34. Use tweezers to lift the daughterboard out of the case. Use tweezers to lift the daughterboard out of the case.
    • Use tweezers to lift the daughterboard out of the case.

Conclusão

After reapplying adhesive, follow these instructions in reverse order to reassemble your device.

25 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Adam O'Camb

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Something you should add is that the battery temperature sensor is actually on the wireless charging coil. Unless you screw that part on, adding a new daughter board and plugging it in will result in the phone thinking the battery temperature is too low and thus it won't charge

Chinook Piroh - Responder

Hi i just change the motherboard and the battery is new the display show ( ! ) is not working. Can you help me to solve the problem. Thank you

kee nguang Tan - Responder

Step 22 does not apply to the Samsung galaxy s8 SM-G950F, the daughterboard is different and does not have that connector for anyone trying to source one !

Aidan Mongan - Responder

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