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Introdução

Things heating up inside your MacBook Pro with Retina Display? Could be trouble with the heat sink. Use this guide to remove the heat sink in the Mid 2015 MacBook Pro 15" with Retina display.

Don't forget to clean and re-apply thermal paste if you remove the heat sink. Follow this guide to learn how.

  1. Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.1 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - Responder

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - Responder

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk - Responder

    Battery Recall for 15-inch MacBook Pro Retina mid-2015. Check Apple’s site for recalls, and put in your serial number. They replaced my swelling battery for free, regardless of warranty.

    Steve -

    I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

    henry_k_wong - Responder

    All the screws on mine are the same length for some reason.

    ccfman2004 - Responder

    I would recommend the first step is: Run the battery down to ZERO before doing any next step. This reduces risk to you, people nearby, to the MBP and greatly reduces the risk of fire. Step 2 should be: Double-check that the battery is at zero.

    I like others listed below and on YouTube, disagree with these full tear down 70+ steps being the only focus. I get that I have to be careful not to get the acetone solvent near the speakers. I skipped 25+ steps by: tilting the MBP away from the speakers and using very little acetone solvent. More pressure with the plastic cards and only a few drops of solvent. While giving the full set of instructions is fine it should be very clear that you can (at the user’s own risk) do this.

    Kenneth Schleede - Responder

    As above—I consider full disassembly to be far riskier to fragile cables and connectors than the risk for solvent spillage. I did steps 1-5 and 46-74. No issues. I HIGHLY recommend the iFixit magnetic Project Mat. It’s a white marker board surface gridded into squares and invaluable for labeling part sizes/steps in disassembly.

    philtrit - Responder

    As above too. I benefitted from the advice. From step 51 onwards, I found a easier way using tip from China battery seller. Use a 2” width plastic scraper/plastic paint scraper to poke under the battery. Use moderate strength to poke and avoid rough handling of the battery so as not to puncture it. There is no need to pry the battery to avoid stressing it, just use a firm poking action under the battery and the double sided tape adhesive will yield. After 5 min of such poking, the entire battery pack can be removed without the hassle of pouring the adhesive remover from step 51 onwards. Get a scraper with a stronger handle so that it is more comfortable to poke.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889670...

    Emma Pn - Responder

    Heads up as you go…we (husband/wife team) had a notebook that when screws/covers were removed, we marked the step # and actually taped the screws into the notebook noted by the step number. This was very helpful on reassembly and we knew we would be using the exact screw into the original screw hole.

    Ann Brainard - Responder

    Totally agree with philtrit’s comment above: “I consider full disassembly to be far riskier to fragile cables and connectors than the risk for solvent spillage.”

    I’ve disassembled several MacBooks before. The tiny cables and connectors are *very* delicate, and easily broken. Even for someone with experience, it’s not worth the risk. One little mistake, and costly damage could result.

    Considering the price of the replacement battery, plus whatever additional tools are needed, plus the possibility of something going wrong—is it really worth the risk to save $150 by doing it yourself?

    Lastly, I’ve purchased aftermarket computer batteries before, and had poor luck with them. Most degraded significantly in under 6 months. Maybe it’s that I’m getting too old for this stuff, but I think I’ll leave this repair to someone with more experience.

    At the moment, I’m quite upset Apple has refused to repair this for me at no cost. Clearly the expanded battery is defective, which is the reason for the recall. GRRRRR!

    AnnoniMoose - Responder

    This morning I realized something: The battery is attached with double stick foam tape, not glue. That means solvent isn’t necessary, because that kind of double stick tape will tear apart without solvent. All you need is a spudger and patience. Working from the side of the battery, firmly push the spudger under the battery a little at the corner, and gently pry up a little. Then pull the spudger out, move to a different spot, and do it again. Keep doing this, over and over, slowly tearing the tape, working the battery loose a tiny bit at a time. Using this method, each section of the battery can be pried off in only a few minutes. My entire battery came loose in under half an hour this way. No need to use dangerous solvents or buy anything special. No risk of damaging the speaker. No need to pull the computer apart. All you need is patience. The battery can be replaced safely this way in under an hour.

    AnnoniMoose - Responder

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

    If you buy the entire kit, make sure you use the opening tool! I cut both of my index fingers trying to slide it off.

    Catherine Nath - Responder

    Additionally, this is an “opportunity” to clean the cooling fans - and any other obvious dust magnets - with a can of compressed air. On the laptop I worked on, the cooling fans had sufficient dust to not “spin” freely - showing signs of “drag”. After blasting each cooling fan with compressed air (including from the exhaust vent side, as hitting the fins alone wasn’t adequate), they both spin freely now. No obvious signs of battery swelling on mine, but lack of adequate airflow could have been a factor with original battery aging/failure.

    J G - Responder

  3. The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange). During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.
    • The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - Responder

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - Responder

  4. Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.
    • Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - Responder

    +1 to above comment

    Andrew Saunders - Responder

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - Responder

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Responder

    It is just the top layer of tape that you want to lift, you need to seperate it from the bottom layer.

    Kelv - Responder

    You don’t actually need to remove the tape or even peel it off at all. Just pull up the battery connector up with the tape still attached.

    AJ Lorenzo - Responder

    pay attention that the macbook in this picture is presented the “wrong side”: if you accidentally remove the tape covering the trackpad cable and thereby also take the trackpad cable out of the zif-socket, your keyboard and trackpad won’t work anymore. putting the trackpad cable back into the (tiny) socket will fix the issue though.

    sam - Responder

  5. Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board. Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
    • Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - Responder

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Responder

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - Responder

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - Responder

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - Responder

    There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.

    Ellie B -

    There is a battery cover with two T5 screws that must be removed before prying on the connector.

    Dennis Newton - Responder

    Hi Dennis,

    Thanks for bringing this up! I’ll work on verifying this and adjust the guide as needed.

    Arthur Shi -

    My battery connector had another layer of plastic on it that I removed first

    Kelv - Responder

    For an A1398, the screws on the adjacent cover were T6, not T5; one of the tips in the battery kit was suitable.

    J G - Responder

    I need dis board hw much

    Ebuka Ofodile - Responder

  6. Peel the rubber cover up off the right fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the rubber cover up off the right fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the rubber cover up off the right fan and fold it out of the way.

  7. Peel the rubber cover up off the left fan and fold it out of the way. Peel the rubber cover up off the left fan and fold it out of the way.
    • Peel the rubber cover up off the left fan and fold it out of the way.

  8. Remove the small rubber cap from the screw at the end of the heat sink. Remove the small rubber cap from the screw at the end of the heat sink.
    • Remove the small rubber cap from the screw at the end of the heat sink.

    I lost this little cap. Will this cap cause any issues?

    diego - Responder

  9. Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:
    • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws

    • When you remove these screws, springy metal brackets securing the heat sink will be released. Take care not to lose these screws when the brackets spring free.

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    1. What are the dimenssions of the “Two 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws“?

    2. Are there any alternative screws that can be used?

    Note: I am asking as inside my macbook I have the screws missing and I cannot manage to find them online, I just managed to find the springy metal brackets.

    Mihai Iusan - Responder

    Remove also the screw for the video card if fitted!

    Petar Dzhuninski - Responder

    Attention, sur les modèles 2015 avec 2 cartes graphiques (carte Radeon et Intel), il faut aussi dévisser 4 vis autour de la carte AMD. L’implantation est légèrement différente de la photo présentée. La puce AMD est située à droite du processeur.

    Rémi GILLE - Responder

  10. Flip the two spring clamps out of the way of the heat sink. Remove the heat sink from the MacBook Pro.
    • Flip the two spring clamps out of the way of the heat sink.

    • Remove the heat sink from the MacBook Pro.

    • On reassembly, be sure to clean the CPU and heat sink and reapply thermal compound to the CPU. Follow this guide to learn how.

    Dual graphics card versions have a secondary heat sink with clamps right next to the CPU. Unlike CPU clamps, this one has four screws in four edges. All four need to be removed to release the heatsink altogether. Be careful about the springy metal brackets as they can shoot the screws to the other side of the room never to be found again.

    Firat Birlik - Responder

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

66 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

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On my macbook Pro 2015 it has an extra Square on the heatsink to cover the graphics card. So the Pictures does not look right on this guide. I would share my pictures but it’s not possible in the comments.

Mark Barner - Responder

I don’t have much to add other than that these squares on the GPU and CPU were hindering my ability to completely clean off the previous thermal paste. I actually would like to remove the squares, but would like to hear from folks who might have a sense of how essential it is for thermal transfer (or any other purpose it serves).

Rahul S -

Hey guys when I refreshed the thermal paste on my 2015 15” (top spec) mbp, I noticed four little metallic sponges in that area, one of those came off… I still have it, how critical is it? Should I replace it? If so are there any guides?

Many thanks

AlexMorse - Responder

I have the same issue as well— 2 of mine came off, and I just stuck them back where they were before and let the pressure of the heat sink hold it in place for now. But any expertise on this issue is appreciated!

Rahul S -

Hola el mio tiene un disipador con 4 tornillo para el Chip Grafico a diferencia de este.

vparra - Responder

Attention sur certains modèles, il y a 2 cartes graphiques, donc 4 vis à dévisser en plus, et la pâte thermique à mettre sur la carte AMD également.

Enorme différence de température de processeur suite à cette opération, 20° de moins ! Les ventilateurs ne s’allument plus intempestivement.

Je conseille à tous ceux qui ont les ventilateurs qui se mettent en marche à la moindre occasion.

Rémi GILLE - Responder

I’ve done this method earlier today. Took out the old thermal paste and added a new one and now my fans blast at full speed for no apparent reason even on idle and the processor is throttled. Is there a solution?

Jason Madrigal - Responder

hello, my trackpad and keypad are not working anymore. what did i do wrong?

sam - Responder

Check to see if they are connected properly.

Daniele Carminati -

i’ve already fixed it. the problem occurred in step 4, because the macbook in the picture is displayed the wrong side: while accidentally removing the tape covering the trackpad cable, i also took the trackpad cable out of the zif-socket. putting the trackpad cable back into it fixed the issue.

sam -

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