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A standard cordless compact DeWalt 18V drill with a high performance motor that delivers 380 watts. Equipped with easy to hold design that allows you to work in difficult spaces.

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Why won't my battery charge?

My battery will not charge even when it is hooked up to the charger.

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If your battery won’t charge, first look to see if the light is flashing on the charger you plug into the wall. If the light is not flashing then there may be a blown fuse in the battery charger which can be replaced. If it is not a blown fuse it may just be a defective battery or an old battery since batteries over a period of time may not be able to hold charge as well as when you first got them. So in that case I recommend buying a new charger if you can not replace the fuse on your drill.

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A little confusing (no pun) You suggest buying a new charger if the batteries are defective???

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Confusing to say the least, all of my dewalt batteries are approx 24 months old and same goes for my chargers. I get one flash of the red light then nothing...none of my batteries should be depleted and the chargers should still be okay too

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I know this Answer may be a bit delayed but I had exactly the same issue after using my Dewalt 18v lithium ion battery to run Christmas lights. The battery got totally depleted and when trying to charge it all that would happen is one flash of the charger then absolutely nothing. No indication of life while pressing the indicator button on the battery either. Apparently these batteries can go into sleep mode if totally depleted.

To cure the issue I got a fully charged identical battery and connect wires to the outer + and - slots. I then connected the dead battery to the other end of the wires in the same slots…..make sure + goes to + and - goes to - . I found I only had to do this for a few seconds then Disconnected all wires. On pressing the indicator button on the dead battery I then got a faint flash…..next I place the battery in the charger and it started to charge as normal and after an hr it was fully charged and worked as normal.

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I have had this a few times patience is the answer put flat battery in charger and leave for about an hour until red light comes on without flashing then remove battery and plug back in should charge fully then

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These days, it’s usually tired original NiCd batteries. I have a DC970, and both of my batteries are done. However, my recommendation here is not to get new OEM or cloned NiCd/NiMh batteries - don’t bother. If you want to jump them and see have at it but if the battery is old it usually doesn't run very long, or permanently dies within short order. Yes it sometimes works, but it's not something that I consider worthwhile after 11 years of use and abuse.

What I usually recommend for these older DeWalts is the DCA1820 adapter, and the 20V Lithium batteries (these batteries completely ditch the memory effect problem). However, if you buy the batteries on their own it may be more expensive so the more cost effective method to do this is to buy a drill kit (especially if it’s a refurb or on sale; even better if it comes from a DeWalt authorized reseller who has CPO brushless stock) and the DCA1820. You get the batteries and charger that way, and a secondary drill. In addition to the battery and additional tool, you don’t need to buy the charger; it came with it. Unless you were to get the 20V conversion kit (DCA2203C) on sale at an excellent discount, the cost of skipping the extra tool usually doesn’t make sense as it comes to around the same price both ways, especially with stores who run tool sales somewhat often.

Being as I own one of these NiCd drills, I did my research on this and when I looked at the DCA2203C vs CPO refurb with 2 batteries option+separately purchased DCA1820 tend to cost about the same. There’s a chance it may be a few dollars more if you buy a drill kit and the adapter, but it’s usually not much (if any difference at all, especially if you can get a refurb with 2 batteries) - think ~$40-50 new, less as a factory refurb (prices fluctuate).

My NiCd charger is in a box since I do not intend to bother with anything other than the 20V packs since they can be made to work and it's officially supported.

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