If you are part of a student group and claim one of my Device pages or Wikis, please respect these guidelines:
- Only change content that needs to be revised. Leave working content alone.
- If the original content is mostly usable, it's best to do a revision with the original content and formatting preserved as much as possible.
- If any information is removed without replacement, verify it is inaccurate if known by others. If there is not enough time to verify it, please understand I did so personally before including it.
- If you find any content you can't verify but think it needs work (Ex: Information on how to use a certain game controller on PC), revise it in its current form.
- If such content is included, only replace the parts that need replacement - do not remove it or change everything. I've personally tested it and know it to work.
- Do not change the following:
- Non-patrol reputation (This is set high enough to prevent problems for me and established users).
If these guidelines are respected, I do not have a problem with student edits. I know how I handle it is more unconventional then other pages since I will centralize common problems (and their workarounds if I know what to do) to make the information easier to find.
Regarding major changes beyond normal editing: If you are considering a major change, it's best to err on the side of caution and use the existing formatting and replace that section. In most cases, the content is (generally) laid out in such a way that the only requirements are a rewrite on the section that is being changed. In most cases, there is no need to completely rework how I wrote the original content.
CompTIA A+ CE
PC Pro Certification
Marchman Technical School Certificate of Completion
- Sunlake High School (Dual enrollment)
- Marchman Technical Center
- Linux (I often have a second dedicated Linux computer)
- Intermediate board level repair and data recovery
- Photography
- Gaming (Limited to older games without excess DLC and microtransactions; PC only since Xbox One and PS4 launch)
This is an old drive - buy a newer model on the open market.
Take the recovery part to Answers - you’ll get better responses there. I only know so much about how to deal with this and there are others with more information then I have. In addition, it doesn’t benefit as many people if I provided said information here rather then in Answers.
@captainsnowball And I figured out what the issue may have been almost 4 years later :-(. I assumed the Delta 00A supply was the common unit and common sense would dictate the information on the caps I have is specific to the 00A part, but that wasn’t the case.
It’s been fixed for a while, but the issue has been ongoing for a long time because it’s been patched to help rather then properly fixed. I’m going to keep it for cases like yours where you need a starting point, but it had to be clarified. The monitor really needs to come apart to be sure, so I may remove it as it isn’t definite and may vary.
Do you have the fat adapter or the slim one? The slim one is Win10 only.
Not sure if you’re being serious or sarcastic. If you’re serious, it says it in the line you quoted that from why it has to wait.
That one is Win10 only :(.
I don’t like that method because of Microsoft’s update track record. If you’ve never had an issue, do it.
Yep. Motherboard needs to come out on these.
I patched this up as well as I can. I got away with a #00, but I added or #000 to avoid more documented problems similar to this. It may be possible yours was #000 and I used a #00 system for the guide.
Check Step 7.
That’s why I rated it difficult and was quite blunt about how difficult the job is. I’m assuming you’re talking about the optical drive screw(s). If you can safely drill it out with a very small bit (while being very careful!), you’ll recover but that area will always feel looser then the other parts of the chassis.
It’s not impossible, but yeah… This is not someone’s first DIY job.
I can put it on Drive as well so we have a backup. I can give you my iFixit email
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