If you are part of a student group and claim one of my Device pages or Wikis, please respect these guidelines:
- Only change content that needs to be revised. Leave working content alone.
- If the original content is mostly usable, it's best to do a revision with the original content and formatting preserved as much as possible.
- If any information is removed without replacement, verify it is inaccurate if known by others. If there is not enough time to verify it, please understand I did so personally before including it.
- If you find any content you can't verify but think it needs work (Ex: Information on how to use a certain game controller on PC), revise it in its current form.
- If such content is included, only replace the parts that need replacement - do not remove it or change everything. I've personally tested it and know it to work.
- Do not change the following:
- Non-patrol reputation (This is set high enough to prevent problems for me and established users).
If these guidelines are respected, I do not have a problem with student edits. I know how I handle it is more unconventional then other pages since I will centralize common problems (and their workarounds if I know what to do) to make the information easier to find.
Regarding major changes beyond normal editing: If you are considering a major change, it's best to err on the side of caution and use the existing formatting and replace that section. In most cases, the content is (generally) laid out in such a way that the only requirements are a rewrite on the section that is being changed. In most cases, there is no need to completely rework how I wrote the original content.
CompTIA A+ CE
PC Pro Certification
Marchman Technical School Certificate of Completion
- Sunlake High School (Dual enrollment)
- Marchman Technical Center
- Linux (I often have a second dedicated Linux computer)
- Intermediate board level repair and data recovery
- Photography
- Gaming (Limited to older games without excess DLC and microtransactions; PC only since Xbox One and PS4 launch)
It helps but it's not 100% necessary for the entire cleanup. Soaking the printheads screens for part of it is usually sufficient. Better to do it at the end to catch any ink that floated in the beginning then throughout unless you want to do it through the main cleanup and the final purge. I generally do not bother when it pulls tons and tons of ink out; you'll be wasting water - worry about the bottom part first where it will all be “forced out” from.
The water also creeps up due to being soaked at the bottom.
Late response, but some laptops and Windows based tablets (notably HP) always show 0% wear in Batteryinfoview. You need to go into the UEFI diagnostics or use use HP Support Assistant and grab it from the advanced data on HP. If it’s Dell, UEFI SupportAssist (newer systems) or ePSA (legacy).
Nothing to worry about, but another quirk like the EOL capacity reporting response on some Dell batteries. Added a note in the quirks section about this.
The trick I’ve used on this HP chaissis is I will go over the back tabs with more attention then the rest, and then go over it again just to be sure.
The alternative is to buy anything else that isn’t awful to service, but sadly if you own it you can’t do much about it.
No - I do not.
The screw seems to be #000 for most. #00 worked for me (15-p263nr) but I marked it as or #000 because it seems to vary.
Try a Phillps #000 screwdriver. It worked for me with a #00, but #000 is a better fit when I revisited this.
Some people in the comments here have reported it works when you get the driver through Windows Update. I'm waiting until 2004 stabilizes to cover that on a fresh machine that I haven't made work yet to cover it.
Too many issues to go near it on production hardware for now.
@captainsnowball And I figured out what the issue may have been almost 4 years later :-(. I assumed the Delta 00A supply was the common unit and common sense would dictate the information on the caps I have is specific to the 00A part, but that wasn’t the case.
It’s been fixed for a while, but the issue has been ongoing for a long time because it’s been patched to help rather then properly fixed. I’m going to keep it for cases like yours where you need a starting point, but it had to be clarified. The monitor really needs to come apart to be sure, so I may remove it as it isn’t definite and may vary.
Do you have the fat adapter or the slim one? The slim one is Win10 only.
Not sure if you’re being serious or sarcastic. If you’re serious, it says it in the line you quoted that from why it has to wait.
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