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The Canon EOS Rebel XS, is an entry level DSLR released on the 10th of June 2008.

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Camera giving Error 99.

I called a repair man and he said a part needs to be changed. He is asking too much for the repair. I see that parts on your site is not as expensive. I just wanted to know which part exactly needs to be changed with this kind of error. So that I can order it from you. Hope to hear from you soon.

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what part did you order

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@arsenderkach NLA at this point with the Xs/Xsi.

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The part in question when it isn't the lens with Canon will be your shutter; it's the part that covers your sensor. Often the failure is due to a high click count; these had the infamous "50k click" shutter and were prone to breaking down very early when they were used hard and not as a hobbyist camera body. The 50k shutter on these entry-level bodies was pulled straight from the APS film parts contract graveyard retrofitted into a DSLR body and reused knowing the people buying them won't hit that point anytime soon; it'll be OOW and cut off from service with most of these; even today with the non i bodies. Canon used a bespoke part in the prosumer and pro DSLRs, even in their infancy. They'd be doing shutters a lot if they did. AFAIK, it was not until the T1i Canon retired this APS part nonsense and put the same 100k shutter into the entry-level body. It was purely a cost savings issue on early Digital Rebels that nerfed their long-term reliability.
Despite the change to 100k parts, I remain leery these cheap bodies will ever make it to 100k when it comes to the non-i and bodies without the "D(1)" designation due to cost binning; it may happen, but it's not as likely as an 80D or 77D (the 77D dangerously similar to the T7i, but with a top LCD like the ones found on the "2-digit D" bodies with the 1/4000 mech shutter compared to the 1/8000 baseline set with the true "2-digit D" bodies. Even I'd put money down before verifying the click count on a well used 77D doing it without issue comparing it to a non-i body despite being so similar to the T7i.
(1) 2-digit D like the 80D, or KNOWN rarities like the Japan native 9000D (JDM 77D). The general rule is this:
NOTE: With RF mirrorless, forget every bit of this rule set. It's a global nameplate; the only way to know is incorrect S/N deviations, "issues" like Canon's language lock on the "sold in Japan" bodies; or in some cases, being told by Canon it's grey market.
On that note... unless you know better (or just don't care if the discount matches the grey status, which is my take on it) it's going to be easy to get burned by a "gray" RF body because they don't use different nameplates outside of ones destined to be sold in Japan. The EEA/ROW bodies lack the JDM language lock. You may need to ask the country of origin it was meant to be sold in if it has gray market red flags.

  • EOS Rebel: USDM camera designation for non "D" bodies; we use Rebel and "D" with 2-digit numbers here.
  • 2-digit: "real" "D" body. Note this designation is "global", even in Japan; the indicator determining if a body is grey market is the S/N or language options as in the case of the Japan cameras. For example, a US body will be different from an EEA region camera.
  • 3-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW "i" bodies for markets outside of Japan with a nameplate change; for all intents and purposes, these are ALWAYS considered "grey market" unless you are in an EU member country or UK where they were an EU member. Very common gray market cameras across the world people buy as these lack the Japanese language lock.
  • 4-digit "D": EU (EEA)/ROW non-i bodies for markets outside of Japan (Ex: Rebel T7 US, 2000D Europe); entry level. This is just another nameplate change to "designate" if the camera is a grey market model or not in the country you are in; it's the same parts bin special as the US version, like the Rebel T7 example. These are also as common as 3-digit "D" bodies when sold at a discount as an "international version". Nobody who does this with the knowledge of to navigate the grey market so well that they import the camera sans a middleman like a reseller marking it up WILL BUY ONE OF THESE TURDS (2). I can buy the USDM version from Best Buy like the T7 for ~$480 or less, so there's near zero savings; plus lacking a warranty. No thanks... Not worth burning your Customs allowance (internet purchase or travel) on this waste. Get a nice body at that point and treat yourself at that point (ex: 80D/90D/Prosumer and high-end EOS R).
    (2)While nobody who buys grey with the knowledge of it being grey touches these, sometimes novices often unknowingly buy these things from unauthorized resellers who imported them in bulk and hide the issue with cheap accessories that are worth more dead, or overpriced. They also hide the issue from the buyer and only find out when they need a repair.
  • JDM oddballs like the 9000D (77D ROW): Rare, these are known as needed. EN/Japan language locked until "fixed" with Tornado EOS.
  • EOS "Kiss" X: Japan's "JDM" version, grey market ROW. Language locked, but can be removed with Tornado EOS. Easily identified as grey market.

These were some of the first cameras checking it was easy; the early bodies like the 30D and many entry-level bodies were DOS-based, so there was no easy way to get to it; it may not even have been possible on those.

This is an example of what it will look like when you run it through a tool to check:

Block Image

If it has over 50k clicks and the issue occurs with a 2nd lens, your shutter is mechanically "expired". 100% chance the shutter you need will be NLA, so you will probably be finding yourself buying a newer camera body.

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When i checked out this problem i found a lot of people with older cameras were having the same problem

The camera repair guy wanted a lot to repair it so i looked up the cost of a new one on e bay gess what full kit was for sale for 99 $ US

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