keys on the keyboard stop working

The problem isn't usually the board.. its the rubber contact that either need replacing or cleaning. Clean with pure alcohol.. I use Isopropyl alcohol and a lint free pad like chamois. Don't use cotton bids.

If the fault is on the first octave the part number for the contact is V3413800

Top Octave? V3413700

All the other octaves: V4313600

If it is the board its in two halves... lower half. Pt number is V3414200 and the top half is V3414300

Contact Yamaha in your country and ask for spares dept, In UK the number is 01908366700 You can pay by card.

cheers

Iain (the engineer)

Keyboard Repair Centre, Birkenhead. UK

My yamaha dgx 230 had the same problem too, except, if I pressed it lightly, it sounded as if I were pounding on it. And the bad thing is, it happened to 14 notes, which were the same G#'s and the same D's. But if I press on it normally, it doesn't make a sound. Do u think it has something to do with dust or the rubber pads?

I'm a Yamaha engineer at Keyboard Repair Centre in Wirral.

I have had this fault in the past. It may be the volume control which has gone high in value. If you need the part number then let's know. Its not a difficult job but you need desoldering and soldering skills.

Can you use spirit to clean the rubber contact or the circuit board....I also use Yamaha psr e423 and some keys seized to sound and I realized the problem is from either the rubber or the circuit board.. I need help please.

I tried disassembling & cleaning, and more keys "died". I found that if I hit the keys over and over and over, it seems to come back to life.

This site seems to offer some replacement parts:

https://syntaur.com/yamaha_dgx.html

I have yamaha psr i455, from yesterday its D# and A key of every octive was not working. I am trying many ideas which givesn on internet. I have a hair dryer i use on my keyboard and now my keyboard is working properly. I think its lhappend because of moisture due to rain… i purchased Silica Gel packet and kept near to keyboard then after no such problem happened.

I just had this problem where my E and Bb keys had stopped working entirely.

I used a firm slap directly to the right of the logo above the keys to jostle things back into place.

Works so far, will update if anything changes.

-Roon

Same thing here. I just got a brand new PSR 373 and after just 1 month the D and G# keys of all octaves stopped working. I sent it to the repair shop and I am waiting their evaluation to see what happened

The Yamaha YPG-225 has 4 ribbon cables attached to the keyboard. The keyboard is in two separate sections: The lower 33 keys (E to C) with a 6-wire ribbon cable going to the main board, and the upper 43 keys (C# to D) with an 8-wire ribbon cable going to the main board. These two ribbon cables carry octave sensing for groups of 6 keys, at most, across the keyboard. So if a group of 6 contiguous keys are not working, it will mostly likely be a problem with one of the wires in these ribbon connectors not making the connection to the main board.

There are also two ribbon connectors with 12 wires. There is one short jumper ribbon connector between the two keyboard sections and one long one to the main board. These ribbon connectors carry key note information, all the keyboard "C" keys on one wire, all the C# keys on another wire, etc. So, if all the "C" keys are not sounding, it is probably a broken connection in one of the wires in the two 12-wire ribbon connectors.

I was able to fix a problem on the upper part of the keyboard. All the "E" keys and "A#" keys were intermittently not sounding. If the 12-wire jumper cable socket on the upper keyboard side was rocked, the problem either went away or got worse with more keys not sounding.

First I tried disconnecting the jumper ribbon cable at its two sockets, cleaning the wires, and then reconnecting. Do this by using your fingernails to push up the two ends of the socket to unlock it. Pull out the ribbon cable, clean it, then reinsert the ribbon cable wires all the way and then push down the two ends of the socket to lock it back in. The sockets are on the bottom of the keyboard circuit boards, so yes, you do have to remove all the keys, and all those circuit board screws.

This didn't work. I assume there must have been cracked connections around the ribbon cable socket, or the socket was no longer holding the cable wires tightly. The plastic on one edge of the keyboard case was cracked open so, at one point, the keyboard must have been dropped.

I finally ended up overriding the jumper ribbon cable with soldered connections between the two sockets using single strand wire-wrapping wire. Make sure you get the connections right. There is one 12-pin socket on the upper key circuit board. Another one on the lower key circuit board for the jumper - these pins are in reverse order. And finally there is a third 12-pin socket on the lower key circuit board for the main long ribbon cable to the main board - these pins are reversed again. All the 12 pins in these 3 sockets should be connected. I soldered the first and third socket connections together with 12 wires.

A couple extra thoughts: First, the keys come off in octave or less sections. The sections are locked into place with two plastic clips at the top of the keys. Push in one clip at a time and gently lift at the top corner of the key section to remove it. If you are gentle, the black and white keys can stay together as one unit. Second, I don't believe the black carbon cylinders inside the rubber gaskets need cleaning as much as the circuit board traces that they contact. The traces are easy to clean. Remove the rubber gaskets, spray some isopropyl alcohol or Cramolin on a cloth and then wipe along the traces.