Flip the unit upside down and remove the screws sitting in the four deep holes in the corners using a 4.5mm gamebit driver. Don't remove the enclosure yet!

Turn the device right side up again, and now lift the top case off. It'll come up easily.

Unsnap the controller port cover and the rearmost I/O-cover by unsnapping the two snaps on the sides of each cover. Don't remove the controller panel yet.

Then remove the heatsinks of the memory card slots (necessary step).

Now start removing the 'normal' Phillips #2 screws.

Start by removing the fan assembly.

then unscrew the 12 visible screws on the edging of the now not so cube-shaped GameCube.

Now you can lift the drive assembly up. You maybe have to loosen it a bit with a screwdriver or a heavy duty spudger.

The mainboard is now visible.

Now remove the heatsink. Unscrew the six screws holding it.

Now use anything flat and durable to carefully lift up the heatsink by putting it under the aluminum and using it gently as a lever.

If there are thermal pads remaining on the processors and/or ram chips, remove them with a plastic spudger.

Now disconnect the controller port panel connector by lifting and jiggling it carefully. It should come off easily.

24 MB MoSys 1T-SRAM

ATI 'Flipper' GPU, 162 MHz with 3 MB 1T-SRAM embedded within the die

IBM 'Gekko' CPU, 486 MHz (PowerPC 750CXe-based core)

Connectors (2nd pic):

'Hi Speed Port'

'Serial Port 1'

'Serial Port 2'

If you lift the mainboard up, you'll see a metal plate, probably for EMI-protection. Remove the two screws holding it and you have access to the internal power supply.