Introdução
Use this guide to replace the battery in your iPad Air.
For your safety, drain your iPad’s battery before you begin—a charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire or explode if accidentally damaged. If your battery is swollen, take additional precautions.
Warning: the battery isolation method in this guide is outdated, and may result in irreversible damage to the battery pins of the logic board, effectively destroying it. If you choose to isolate the battery this way, heed all warnings and work extremely carefully. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
O que você precisa
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next two steps.
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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
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If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
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Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
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The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
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Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
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Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.
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Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.
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Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:Polyimide Tape$9.99
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Remove the front panel assembly.
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If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit panels come with the proper insulation, and should not require the addition of any tape.
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Insert a spudger under the antenna cable closest to the edge of the iPad and lift upward to disconnect the antenna cable connector.
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Insert a spudger under the left antenna cable and lift upward to disconnect the antenna cable connector.
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Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the upper component cable bracket.
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There are two remaining pieces of tape securing the left antenna cable to the rear case.
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Peel the tape up from the rear case.
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Insert a plastic opening tool in the rectangular gap in the upper area of the logic board, and pry the logic board up from the rear case.
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While keeping the opening tool underneath the logic board, slide it down the length of the gap to free the upper end of the logic board from the adhesive.
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Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:iFixit Adhesive Remover$19.99
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Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds.
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Place the heated iOpener in the center of the back of the iPad. Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.
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Move the iOpener to the right (away from the rear-facing camera), and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.
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Finally, move the iOpener to the right-hand edge of the iPad for 90 seconds.
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Ferramenta utilizada neste passo:Plastic Cards$2.99
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Insert a plastic card under the lower battery cell, at the lower right-hand corner.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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56 comentários
I attempted the battery replacement and it all went to plan until I tried to boot up the iPad. Nothing happens until you plug it in, when you plug it in the apple logo comes up then it dies again. Any advice????
May be a faulty battery, try with a known working battery
Scott S -
Mason, did you find a solution? I’m having the exact same problem after replacing the battery…
Dustin -
I just put the screen less iPad on a hotplate at 65 to 70 degrees to warm up the case. Use dental floss under the battery to slice the adhesive away. No sharp tools needed
Best way to position?
Scott S -
