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LG 55EC9300 OLED TV has no picture or audio

I'm hoping to revive this thread a little as I have the same model LG and similar problem but not exactly . I have 3.5v standby power @ p201 proper pins but no 12 or 24v when power switch is pressed or not. When I press power switch I can hear relay(?) clicking and then immediately clicks again. The remote will also generate the same click. Standby light stays on steady at all times, but no screen action or audio. I've checked the 3 onboard fuses as well. The tv pretty much quit working suddenly with no issues leading up to failure. Any guidance as to logical next check ?

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@pdb82581 that is the good thing about iFixit. We don't do threads. Here it is about individuality. WE try and answer people's specific question to their specific device. This allows us to focus on the device and it allows the OP to interact with their repair. That way nothing gets lost in the sea of the "Me too" comments you will find in other forums. To make it work, it is important that the OP comes back to their question so that any question should get resolved. No, not every device will be fixed but we darn well try to fix this planet one device at a time. We all know that sometimes live happens and things do get away from us. After all, we are all volunteers that try to help each other.

Anyhow, we will need to see your boards as well as how they are mounted on the inside of your TV. Those pictures need to be well focused since we most likely will have to zoom in close to check certain things :-)

The clicking of the relay means you are getting power but "something" prevents it to turn the TV on. Could be an issue with the relay itself, the power board or an error code somewhere in between. I have not had an opportunity to check but I assume you TV has a main board that integrates the T-Con circuitry. See if there is some sort of "_err line" between the mainboard and the power board.

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Hi @pdb82581

Here's the Lg55ec9300 65ec9700 Oled Smps Testing guide that may help you to find out what's happening with the power supply in the TV.

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Thanks for the guide.

My results and related questions .

Test 1- with the proper jumpers in place, gives me correct voltages now at proper pins.

Test 2 - with light bulb jig connected to CN7 as instructed, and jumpers from test 1 still in place(although P813 referred to in step 6, was confusing). AC on, light bulb remains lit(brightly) after several minutes. The guide says this indicates a bad T-Con and/or panel.

Ques.1 Is there further testing to tell if it's one or the other without special equipment?

Ques. 2 Thinking about the initial failure, it actually occurred when tv was muted and I switched to unmute....immediately lost picture and sound. Could it be the audio amps drawing excess power rather than T-Con and/or panel? If so, is there a practical way to isolate or them and see what happens?

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So I ordered a supposedly good t-con board as the testing guide suggested could be the problem if not the panel it's self. I couldn't find a test to rule out one or the other. I'll post results when panel arrives.

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The T-con board arrived. Installed it and no change in TV's operation. I still haven't found a method to rule out the display panel so am left with trying another main board? I haven't found one yet that is out of the exact model as mine...specifically the -UA designation of my model #55EC9300-UA . There a few available out of China with -CA, but from what I'm reading that may have a tuner for somewhere other than the US.

Other than that, I've thought of trying the BGA re-flow, but can't figure out how to safely remove the heat shield from the micro.

And so it goes...

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@pdb82581 disconnect one of fate 2 ribbon cables from teh T-con board that go to the LCD driver boards. Then turn your TV on. What happens? Next, turn you TV off, disconnect the power cable, reconnect the ribbon cable and disconnect the other cable. Plug your TV back in and turn it on? What happens?

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Ok, but without the jumper between the 3.5v STBY pin and PWR_ON pin at connector p2300 (pwr board to main board), I have no power going to the t-con board. I think that's what test 1 from the LG guide is all about and then test 2 is added to see if power to t-con remains under a load (light bulb connected)? Would it be kosher to pull the panel ribbons with all power cables connected and still use the jumpers (main board triggers)? Maybe I'm seeing this wrong, but isn't that the troubleshooting dilemma here, that the main board won't let the power board come up because it senses an overload somewhere or that the main board itself is bad?

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It sounds like the relay is going on then off which would indicate and overload condition on the PSU. If it is possible, disconnect the power to the T-Con board to see if the relay stays on. If it does, then disconnect the T-Con from the panel and try again.

If it does not stay on, then the problem is b4 the T-Con. Just keep disconnecting things until you find what is causing the relay to trip off.

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