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The GE Microwave Oven model JVM1650BB 007 is a 1.6 cubic foot capacity, 1000 Watt microwave oven with outside venting.

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Pressing start and the microwave goes off and breaker trips

All features work, clock set, timer, vent, light etc. when I open the door to put food in and press start it goes off. The breaker trips so I fix the breaker and everything works as I mention above but when I press start it goes off again. Also a coffee maker is plugged into the same outlet. I tried using the microwave without the coffee maker plugged in but it did not make a difference. I thought having 2 appliances in the same outlet was the problem

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Hi @busy12

It could be any number of things in the microwave oven, that is causing it to trip the breaker e.g. faulty HV transformer, faulty magnetron, faulty turntable motor, faulty door interlocks, pinched wiring etc.

Microwave ovens are not the safest appliance to work on unless you know what you're doing. The HV capacitor in the oven can store >5000V DC for months, even if the power has been disconnected for this length of time. This amount of voltage can seriously injure you. The HV capacitor needs to be correctly discharged as soon as it can be accessed after removing the cover from the oven and before commencing any further work inside the oven.
You will need to have a digital multimeter and the wiring diagram for the oven to help find out what's wrong. The part number for the wiring diagram is GE 31-20925 but unfortunately I cannot find it online. GE used to place the diagram inside the oven along one side next to the circuit components, but I don't know if this is applicable to your model. If it is not there, the best I can suggest is that you purchase it as it will save a lot of time trying to locate the problem.

Here's a link to a parts supplier that may also help. If a part needs replacing, use the supplier linked to find out the manufacturer's part number for the faulty part and then use that number when searching online to find suppliers that suit you best.

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Hi Sharon,

I've had several microwaves that have had various issues over the years, and in most cases I've found that they can usually be traced down to the door switches. There are generally two or three door switches, and they most often have ones that tell the microwave the door is open and others that tell the microwave the door is closed.

These prevent power from being applied when the door is open and ensure it's closed. When one or more of them isn't working, the microwave can get into a state it's not expecting and can energize circuits at the wrong time, causing all kinds of problems, including ones similar to yours.

The door switches are generally fairly easy to check and fix, so that's pretty much where I always start in diagnosing the problem on any given microwave. So far I've only run into one case where the door switches weren't the problem, so I'd suggest taking a look at those first.

You'll need an ohmmeter or continuity tester to verify the proper operation of the switches; I've had some that sounded like they were clicking and working, but electrically they weren't functioning as verified by my ohmmeter. The switches come in two flavors; normally open and normally closed; the position of one of the electrical contacts is what differentiates them. You can buy ones that support both operations so you don't have to buy two separate parts; those will cover either case; it's just a matter of where you plug in the wire that determines which operation it's going to perform.

The door switches aren't a particularly dangerous part of the microwave to work on as long as it's unplugged from the AC power, but otherwise you do need to heed @jayeff's warnings about working inside a microwave oven.

Good luck; let us know what you find.

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Hi @dadibrokeit,

I disagree with your "The door switches aren't a particularly dangerous part of the microwave to work on as long as it's unplugged from the AC power,..." statement.

Mostly to access the switches you need to get past all the other components and the monitor and primary interlocks are connected to the HV circuit, so discharging the HV capacitor before working further inside the oven is in my view mandatory

Besides which it only takes a few minutes if done correctly and seconds if you just short it out (which I don't subscribe to, as this can damage the capacitor, although to be fair mostly it doesn't because they're very robust).

I have a 10M Ohm, 20W resistor test lead (2 x 20M ohm 10W resistors in parallel) that I use to discharge the capacitor. I connect between the +ve terminal and the chassis. It only takes 5 minutes, after which I short it out to be doubly sure ;-), but it seems that this is too long for most. Also have seen the results of people using the incorrect size pliers or screwdriver to short it out and have found it welded across the terminals. Goodness knows what may have happened to them when this occurred.

Cheers

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