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Model Number: wa50k8600av/a2 Stainless steel 5.0 cu. ft. top loading washing machine

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Washing Machine Stopped powering on

My washing machine recently stopped turning on, it is a Samsung wa50k8600a. I took it apart and did some testing with a multimeter to check for bad parts. Visibly nothing looks wrong. In order here are the items I tested.

outlet -- receives 120 V power (A-Ok)

Power Cord -- continues the 120 V power, has no open circuits

Noise Filter -- output of noise filter maintains 120 V

wiring that connects to the main board from the noise filter. -- output inconsistent (attached image) technical documentation notes that this should still be 120 V Pin 1 CN1 to GND seems to output a consistent 120 V,. Pin 2 CN1 outputs anywhere from 0 to 45 V.

Fuse on Main Board -- Working fine, not blown

Other behavior I noticed after taking apart the top is that when I plug in the Washer I hear a small click sound. When I push the power button even though nothing turns on it sounds like I hear a spring or switch decompress. Might that be related?

So it seems to me that power is being lost from the wiring going to the main board from the noise filter based on the technical documentation. My guess is maybe this is caused by an open wire circuit or a disconnected neutral. I've jiggled and made sure most of the connections seem good and any bent bits got straightened. I haven't delved into the wires near the drum of the washing machine and wanted to verify I am heading down the correct route. I don't imagine I should need to replace the wire harness and just verify the integrity of my own, is that a correct assumption? Is continuing down the path of making sure I have no loose wires and a good ground connection seem to be the proper route?

Additional tests done:

pin 1 and pin 3 of CN1 is a constant 51.9V when it should be 120V

Note that CN1 pin1 to GND is 120V

pin 3 and pin 5 of CN8 is roughly 3.5-4 V when it should be 6.5V

Pins connecting the main board to the sub board get anywhere from 1.2-0.3V

I was unable to get the thermistor test to work at all likely due to the low voltage or perhaps lack of competence.

Wiring connection to main board:

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Wiring Diagram:

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Board Diagrams:

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Hi,

Have you go the technical information i.e. the service manual?

I couldn't find a free download online but looking at the wiring for a WA50K7000 series (I realize that it is a different series/model but was hoping that it might be similar) perhaps check if there is 3.3V, 5V DC and 12V DC on the sub board.

Here's an image of the wiring (best that I could manage from the screen) showing where they are. Hopefully it is shown in the documentation that you have.

Block Image

(click on image to enlarge)

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Thanks for your response!

I do have the technical manual and I can attach a screenshot of the wiring diagram that is on there. I will try this out later today when I have the free time. Out of curiosity while I'm not at the washer do you know where that sub board might be located? When I was pulling it apart I didn't immediately notice it from the top area of wires, nor immediately in the back of the washing machine when I took off the back plate. Specifically it is the longer, thinner board on the second attached image to the current question with the 'J' references on it.

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@Darren Kuefner

Regarding where the board is, I don't know.

It may be behind the control panel in with the display pcb, but this is just a guess.

The wiring diagram you posted looks almost identical to the one I found even though your wiring diagram only shows the one voltage reference i.e. 5V on pcb main board CN2 pin 1.

The "CN2" reference is an assumption by me that that is the board number of the connector plug - see the number(s) in a square to the left of each connector on the main pcb in your wiring diagram and notice that it is different for each plug connector

Hopefully the other voltage references shown on the the wiring diagram I linked are the same i.e. 12V pcb main board connector P1 pin 9 and 5V on pin 7.

You may be able to see where the long thinner board is by chasing the harness cable that goes from connector P1 on the main board and see if it ends up on connector P2 on the thinner board.

To prove it is the thinner board you could try doing the "thermistor test" as described in the last image you posted as this is from J10 on the thinner board

por

Absolutely thanks for this insight. My other guess is that the board is directly underneath the controls on the lid of the unit based on how some of the wires trail. Unfortunately I still have not had time to spend more time on this, but my goal is to dig back into this today and I should be able to get more insight on how the power is flowing to the other boards, and/or if the other board has obvious signs of damage.

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The board was in fact under the buttons/display.

Everything seems to be getting power and responding to button pushes in some manner without actually turning on.

It does seem across the board the voltage is low, but it is there. eg.

pin 1 and pin 3 of CN1 is a constant 51.9V when it should be 120V

Note that CN1 pin1 to GND is 120V

pin 3 and pin 5 of CN8 is roughly 3.5-4 V when it should be 6.5V

Pins connecting the main board to the sub board get anywhere from 1.2-0.3V

I was unable to get the thermistor test to work at all likely due to the low voltage or perhaps lack of competence.

por

I am going to try and order a new wire harness to see if that resolves any issues since I can't seem to pin it down past anything except for the wires coming in have a low voltage output, but the actual power cord and noise filter transition have no voltage issues.

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