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Information and repair instructions for White-Westinghouse Refrigerator

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Hey. I got a White westinghouse refrigerator, unable to find pinout.

I have a white westinghouse refrigerator, I am unable to find the pinout of this connector on the thermostat part. The connector is corroded Ang one of it burned. Maybe someone can help me troubleshoot and find the right wiring for this thing.

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It has 4 wires going to the thermostat, but I am unable to locate the wires for the 220v 1 Amp bulb that's normally on.

Update (12/14/2020)

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here is the model number

Update (12/14/2020)

Update. Everything's working now properly, heat shrink tubes did the job. I was on it for 4-5 hours and finally it's done. @jayeff thanks for the help. ELECTRIC tapes temporarily for the main connection, I'll fix the mess tommorow.

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. Made a small hole so I can see the tubing properly sealed. Still worried about the water dripping on that foam part.

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Hi @echo26 ,

What is the model number of the refrigerator?

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Hi @echo26 ,

The wiring diagram as shown on the product label shows the thermostat as having possibly 2 yellow wires on pin 6 (or 1 if there are two yellow wires on the door switch (it is marked as “switch” so I assume it is the door switch so that the light operates when the door is opened).

You would need to check the defrost heater harness wire colours if they are blue and white or black and white as B might mean black and BL might be blue

If the two defrost heater harness wires are blue and white then the thermostat connections are 2 x Yellow - pin 6, Blue - pin 3, Black and White - pin 4

If the two defrost heater harness wires are black and white then it is 2 x Yellow - pin 6, Black - pin 3, Blue and White - pin 4

The lamp should have a red wire going back to the overload protector near the compressor (or the red wire in the power cord) and a black (or maybe blue) wire going to the door switch. The other wire on the door switch is a yellow wire.

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Is there a way to avoid disassembling the entire refrigerator? Can I do this?

Try to pry out the door switch to see the color and do continuity with the pinouts, I know the placements of the yellow, white and Black wire? My only problem is where to harness the lamp and the extra yellow wire that's coming out of the thermostat guts.

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@echo26

If you pryout the door switch you should see a yellow wire and a BL (is it blue?) wire connected to it.

The yellow wire goes to pin 6 of the thermostst. The other yellow wire at the thermostat should also go from pin 6 to the power plug

The BL (blue? or black? i don't know which colour it is) wire goes from the switch to the lamp.

If you remove the bulb from the lamp socket you should be able to get continuity from the door switch BL wire to one of the pins that the bulb touches when it is plugged in. The other pin in the socket (if it is a screw in bulb the two points of connection - seen from the bulb side - are the centre connector and the screw thread of the socket itself) will connect to the red wire of the power plug because it should go to the overload protector red wire connection and be multipled to the red wire from the power plug i.e. 2 red wires into the overload protector and one wire to the compressor motor. (don't know the colour may be red as well) i.e. 3 wires at the protector 2 in joined together and 1 out

If there are only 2 wires on the overload protector (1 red , I don't know the colour of the other one it may also be red and goes to compressor motor) then it may be that there are two red wires at the lamp as it is the multiple point and not the overload protector

Basically the lamp is wired in series with the door switch directly across the power supply.

Power (red 220V active supply wire) is always present on one side of the lamp and when the door is opened the switch closes and completes the circuit to the neutral (yellow wire) return side of the power supply and the lamp glows. When the door is shut the switch opens and the circuit is broken and the lamp turns off.

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Yeah, found it. I pryed open the switch. Got the continuity confirmed the blue one goes to the lamp. One of the yellow goes to the plug. thanks for the help, I pryed successfully the connectors actually because I was unable to find replacement of this type of connector socket. Weird thing, it has been like 13 years for this refrigerator, The connector seems like dripping water, I wonder does the bulb the only one receiving 220 from my wall socket without danger in shorting s. Water in a socket seems not good for me.

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@echo26

As you say dripping water is no good.

Things to check:

With defrost fridges there is a drain tube that leads from under the evaporator in the freezer compartment to the evaporator pan under the compartments near the compressor.

When in defrost mode, the defrost heater (also usually under the evaporator unit), is turned on and melts the ice build up on the evaporator.

The meltwater flows away down the tube to the pan and evaporates naturally.

If the drain tube if blocked the water can't flow away and may backup and overflow through any gaps into the compartments or inside the cabinet.

Remove the panel that conceals the evap unit which is inside the freezer compartment (access through the front of the compartment) and find the drain hole under the evap unit and pour a measured amount of water (1/2 - 1 cup maybe) and check that it all gets to the evap pan.

With some fridges there is a J curve tube at the bottom of the drain tube above the evap pan and this is where the blockage can occur.

Also check that the door seals are OK as when a loose seal humid warm may enter and condense to water and this may eventually cause problems but you may notice this anyway.

Use a piece of paper and position it between the door and door jamb. With the door closed normally (no pressure from you) try to pull it out. It will come out but with a bit of effort and should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this on top, bottom and both sides of doors.

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@jayeff , I see, I wonder if I could seal the wirings with a sealant, as a measure as well preventing water from going into the wiring joints.

Regarding with the disassembly of the drip pan for the heater, I'll take a look at it , hopefully I can manage to find a way to get into that part. Is it fine to remove the back panel though? I wonder if that's the right way to disassemble a refrigerator, pretty much the back part is like a metal sheet, the condenser is actually at the bottom where the drip pan stays for the unit. Is the heater underneath usually of the freezer box? Sorry for having a lot of questions, I'm really new into refrigerators , I just work with electric fans.

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