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Model A1297 Unibody: Early 2009, Mid 2009, Mid 2010, Early 2011 & Late 2011

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MacBook Pro wont turn on but charges

I got given this MacBook by a friend and he said that it was old so it took it as I need a new laptop. I came home to use it but when I plugged it in it stated to charge but nothing else would happen. I tried everything!

  • SMC Reset
  • PRAM Reset
  • Cleaning the logic board (there was no corrosion)
  • Tring BOTH MagSafe 1 power adapters I have but none did anything useful.
  • I checked if the SSD was working and t was I used another MacBook just to check. (It did work.)
  • Nothing so far has gotten me further does anybody have any solutions?
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Can you clarify which exact model you have as this series run between Core 2 Duo's to i5/i7 CPU's.

Plug in your systems S/N here EveryMac - Lookup let us know which.

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@danj so I checked at the website you linked it is very useful i bookmarked it thanks. It is a core 2 Duo variant.

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When you press the battery checker on your system

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Do the all of the LED’s light up and do they blink on and off?

Update (11/19/2020)

It does sound like the DC-In board has failed, here’s the guide to get to it MacBook Pro 17" Unibody MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement There is two versions which you’ll need to ID which yours is as you only told us you have the Core 2 Duo model which could be either as the last model uses newer part.

A common cause of this failure is using a knockoff charger! Its very hard to tell the difference between a real unit and knock off. The only way I can tell for sure is the weight! The heaver unit is the real unit. Here’s one tell tale sign of a knockoff!

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Here’s the REAL Apple charger you need directly from Apple! Apple 85W MagSafe Power Adapter (for 15- and 17-inch MacBook Pro)

Don’t buy it from any other source as the sellers lie!

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They unfortunately do nothing so far

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Well that tells us your battery is dead and/or the battery checker has a problem (less likely) Here's the needed part [produto vinculado ausente ou desativado: IF162-034-4] and the guide to putting it in MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Battery Replacement

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So going back to what yo are saying about the knockoff chargers I do have proper apple chargers because I know someone who has a MacBook from the same time as this and they bought it brand new so I know it is legit but I do know the board is getting power from using the jumper pads on the board.

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@Aaron Official - What do you mean "I do know the board is getting power from using the jumper pads on the board." ?? The system boots up or are you just measuring voltage?

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As in there are jumper pads labeled "SMC RESET" and "PWR BTN" and when i short them together the MagSafe goes from amber to green which means it is getting power right?

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What color is the MagSafe LED when it's connected to the system? Does it change when you perform an SMC reset? Sometimes a bad battery can prevent a machine from powering on. Try disconnecting the battery, holding the power button for 30 seconds, release, then reconnect the battery and connect a power adapter, then try to power on. If this doesn't work you can try an SMC bypass. To do that, disconnect the battery and power adapter, then hold the power button for 10 seconds, reconnect the power adapter while still holding the power button, continue to hold for 10 seconds, then release. If successful the machine should bypass SMC sensors and force a powered on state.

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@zpl So to start things of it turns amber but then green and then amber again but in some cases just green and sometimes dim green. But when it is amber and i do try a SMC reset it does go green. Unfortunately both of the solutions failed. The bad battery test yielded nothing sadly so did the SMC bypass. Thank you for your comment. Anyway :)

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@Aaron Official Since the charger light changes when you perform an SMC reset we know that the power button is working and that it's taking the SMC reset. Since the machine didn't power on even with an SMC bypass it may be the case that the MagSafe board isn't passing enough voltage to power on the machine. If you have one you can use a multimeter to read the DC-In voltage by correctly using the read out pins on the MagSafe board. If it's not the MagSafe board I would suspect the main logic board at this point. It's possible it's failed due to a short. Also, another thing you can try - if you have a friend with the same model you can try installing their battery in your machine - it's possible your battery is fully drained and is not charging because of logic board or MagSafe board issues.

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Sadly j dont know anyone who has a 17 inch model but I do know someone who has a 13 inch model from the exact time are the magsafe boards compatible throughout different models from the same year?

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As far as I know they are not cross compatible. You can double check by comparing the Apple part numbers - typically if two components have different part numbers they aren't swappable.

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Thanks I will try that

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