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Repair information for KitchenAid dishwashers.

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Dishwasher does not heat the water or dry the dishes

Hi Everyone, I am trying to get some help with a KitchenAid Dishwasher, Model KUDE60FVSS2, that is having problems with heating the water and drying the dishes.

I read other posts and already have done the following:

1) Replaced Heating Element

2) Replaced High Limit Thermostat

3) Rebooted the Control Board

3) Visually Inspected Control Board (No burns, loose wires)

What continues to happen is:

1) During Normal Wash cycle/Hi-Temp Scrub/Sani-Rinse: The water stays cool (cannot tell if the heating element heats up or not)

2) Heat Dry: The heating element does heat up some - but it does not get hot like it used to.

So, any idea why the water not heat up during any of the cycles? My initial thought was the Hi Limit Thermostat, but I checked it with a Multi-Meter and it has continuity (around 17 ohms). And then I replaced it just to be sure.

Is there an actual thermostat on the dishwasher? (I could not find one in the parts list)

Is there anything else to try before looking at the Control Board?

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I have had this problem as well. I have a kitchenaid dishwasher kdte104ess1. I tested my heating element and it had normal continuity. I also turned off the electricity thinking I was "rebooting" the dishwasher but still no drying. It turns out if you run the dishwasher and the water coming is not hot enough the heating system shuts off and will not reset until you do a diagnostic test. Behind the kick pad in the insulation there is usually paper work which explains how to do a diagnostic test and what the code means. With my dishwasher pushing 3 buttons in sequence 3 times put me in diagnostic testing. The dishwasher then automatically reset the heating system and it works fine. Would recommend running diagnostic test before testing heating element since it might save you a lot of time. Bob

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Hi Bob.......I have the exact same problem and the exact same dishwasher model kdte104ess1.......can you tell me exactly which 3 buttons and sequence I need to push to put me in diagnostic testing mode?

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you push heat dry then hi temp then sani rinse then repeat sequence 2 more times for a total of 3 times. that should cause all the lights to go on. I then pushed start which started the diagnostic testing and reset the heating system. if that does not work then I would test heating element for continuity. good luck

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@doityourselfbob Thanks so much.....that worked perfectly!!

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Bob, I am running a diagnostic currently. Thanks for the tip on the sequence. Do you know how to tell when the diagnostic test is complete? I cannot find the paperwork behind the kick panel.

Also, i was experiencing the heater stopping, but also since that begin, I am having random performance on some cycles working, some cycles not working. It was almost like once i tried one combination of cycle, prowash, normal, etc then adding in sani rinse etc, it would work one time on a combination, but not the next on the same combination. Now it won't even start. I am not sure if you had similar issues but this is so odd. To me it suggests a programmatic issue. Hopefully the Diagnostic test will correct.

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Hi @mcvu ,

With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?

Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?

http://www.partselect.com/Models/KUDE60F...

Update (04/12/2017)

Hi Michael,

By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem and the dishwasher probably won't start as it controls power to the control board.

Just wondering whether it might be the actual Dishwasher thermostat that is causing the problem or possibly even the Turbidity Sensor.

(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section, part # 19 Pump, Washarm and Motor parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-nu...,)

According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher thermostat is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level only and not both, but who knows):

"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the incoming water is less than the recommended temperature or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, heat and water as needed." (The italics are my addition to the quote).

I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..

Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water?

As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher's cold water inlet connection (it is the only connection available, via a tempering valve, dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash and rinse water heating time (and power used for the heater) is minimized because the water is usually near or over the required temp, usually set on mine for a 45-60 deg. C wash.

just a thought.

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Jeyeff,

Sorry for the long delay (life happened and I just got back to working on the dishwasher).

Yes, I have tested the continuity from the control board to the heating element.

The Ohms of the new thermostat were within one Ohm of the old one. I replaced it just on the chance it was causing the issue.

I did some more testing, and it turns out that the heating element is heating (to around 400 degrees F), but ONLY during the drying cycle.

If I put the dishwasher into either Sani Rinse or Hi-Temp Scrub, which should raise the temp of the water to 155 degrees (for Sani Rinse) - the water remains at the same room temp as the start of the cycles.

So the heating element is NOT working for the washing cycle, or rinse cycle, but is working for the Drying Cycle.

Let me know if you (or anyone) has any ideas of where to go from here.

Thanks!

Michael

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Jeyeff,

Yes, I replaced part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section. I have not looked at the Turbidity Sensor. I will check it out and see if there is a problem there.

The cycles are NOT shorter than they used to be.

Thanks for the information and let me know if you have any other thoughts.

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Well, people, I just replaced the heating element AND the. High temp thermostat ($75 for both), and it made no difference. I have a Kitchen Aid. Looks like I've joined your club. John in SC

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Wanted to add a note here. I just went through this whole thing. Heater not working but tested fine on the MulitMeter, thermostat testing fine also. I replaced the element anyways. Nearly bought a new board and diverter motor (see other posts below) but decided against it. Ran test mode and I got an error code of 3-2 which is a short in the Theristor/OWI.

Since it said "short" and I am not skilled enough to mess with electrical, I gave up and called a tech. He called KitchenAid and had the whole conversation on speaker so I got the lowdown.

If you get a code 3-2 (oldest code) that means that the Thermistor cannot sense the water temp, so it goes into panic mode and shuts down all the heating, including the dry cycle. So you have to put in a new Thermistor/OWI. The kicker is you then have to run a complete diagnostic cycle in order to reset the heating element and the control board.

$26 part and $135 in labor...could have done it myself but wasn't sure about the wiring, so left it to the pros.

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Hello, I have been trying to run the diagnostic on my kitchen aid KDTE104DSS, but when I enter the sequence code the lights do not light up. Is there a different sequence code for my model?

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I had the same issue (water not heating and machine not drying) but was able to fix it today, thanks to this thread, with little effort and no parts at all.

Back in June 2019 I had to replace the circulation pump on my Kitchenaid KDFE204ESS2. The dishes were not coming clean and after a little troubleshooting I determined a bad circulation pump was the issue. I ordered and changed the pump and thought everything was fine because I could now hear the water spraying vigorously inside the machine when it was running. What I didn’t know was the machine was now leaving a film of undissolved detergent on some of the dishes and the inside surfaces of the machine. My niece (she does the dishes) never told me about the film and would rinse the dishes in the sink after the cycle and dry them by hand.

Last month when my niece moved into her own apartment and my wife and I were now on “dishes duty” is when we discovered the issue with the detergent film. After some troubleshooting I determined I was having the same issue as everyone in this thread. Water was not getting hot and the dry cycle was not working. I figured it was the heating element but after some research realized it could also be the high temp limit thermostat.

This morning I was getting ready to test for continuity of the high limit thermostat and if necessary the heating element as well. I was hoping it would be the thermostat since it’s an easier job to test and replace.

Before I started I was surfing for more info and came across this thread. That’s when I realized that earlier last year when I replaced the circulation pump, I had unplugged the wires to the high temp limit thermostat so they would not be in the way. Then I thought to myself that unplugging the sensor might have the same effect as replacing it and maybe I just need to do a diagnostic/reset cycle on the machine.

Here’s what I did:

  1. Power cycle - Shut off circuit breaker for 5 minutes then turned it back on.
  2. Diagnostic/reset cycle - For my model this involved pressing any three buttons in succession three times. The machine runs for a while switching between cycles and testing all components.
  3. Drain cycle - For my model this involved pressing and holding in the “cancel” button until the machine started the drain cycle.

After the above I loaded up the washer, started it, and hoped for the best. During the wash cycle I opened the door several times to check if the water was hot and was immediately met with a face full of steam. Then during the dry cycle I again opened the door to see if it was getting hot inside the machine… and it was.

When the wash cycle was complete I immediately opened the machine and there was no detergent film on any of the dishes or inside surfaces of the machine, everything was clean, dry and still very hot to the touch….

Problem solved!!!!

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Used the reset procedure above - problem solved! Many thanks!

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I just found this thread while trying to troubleshoot my Kitchenaid dishwasher. I have a KDTE104ESS3. I had my house built, 4 years ago, next month, and I seriously didn’t use the dishwasher, until about my 6 month mark, and I first noticed that when the cycle was complete, I opened the door, and it just looked like someone sprayed a garden hose and closed the door. Nothing was getting clean, or drying. I figured it was just me not knowing how to use it. I forgot about it, and tried it, again, a few months later. Same outcome. Nothing was getting clean or dry. This thing is brand new! It’s never been used before. These 2 times are the only times it’s been used since new, and from day one, it hasn’t worked. I found the diagnostic test, and ran it. At the end, I opened the door and it was still wet inside. But what I did notice, was water dripping onto the heating element, and sizzling. That’s never happened, before. So, now, I’m running a full cycle to see what happens. I’ll report back.

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Thank you so much for this! My heater stopped working and I replaced it. Still no heat. I checked the hi-temp thermostat (the one under the front edge of the washing tub) and it has continuity, so I called for an appointment with a repair service. Then I found this page, ran the diagnostic cycle, and touched the heating element. I burned my fingers, and I am delighted, the heater is now working! I am running a wash cycle now, and when I open the door, my face is getting a blast of hot, damp air. You have saved me hundreds on a service call, plus I feel like a million bucks as I now think I’m a repair guy genius.

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Thanks for sharing this information. I had the same issue on a KDTE104ESS2, and running the diagnostics self-test cycle fixed my no heating issue. I had to replace the circulation pump and disconnected a sensor and removed the diverter motor to install the new pump. For anyone else who removed the diverter pump, be sure to order a new diverter pump grommet/seal to avoid getting a new leak! Also, anyone with the same model, I had to press the first three Options buttons in sequence. Pressing any random three buttons in sequence didn't work for me. Thanks again for sharing!

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I replaced the door latch on my KitchenAid, model KUDE60FVSS3 which solved the stopping in midcycle and displaying a flashing Start light. However, the heated drying wasn’t happening. I knew the element was OK, and after reading the above post, I realized I had the same problem. I got out the Technical instruction sheet stored on the backside of the floor panel below the door and followed the instructions for the Diagnostic “no codes” test. If I remember right, the process was to press the Heated Dry, Normal, Heated Dry, and Normal, buttons in that sequence and close the door within six seconds. The first thing that happened was all the lights came on, then it started a test cycle. I did not time the test, but It took about twenty minutes. When it finished there were no codes. Everything seems to be working correctly now, especially the dry cycle. Thanks for the help.

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Hi @Laura Demma

Here’s the tech sheet for your model.

Here’s what it says about entering the Service Diagnostics:

To invoke the Diagnostics Cycle, perform the following while in standby:

■Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses.

■The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed.

■To rapid advance 1 interval at a time, press the Start/Resume key. Rapid advance may skip sensor checks as some checks require 2 complete intervals.

Hopefully they will help you try find out what’s wrong.

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Always remember to reset the computer after replacing the part or it will not work.

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I replaced the pump on my Kitchenaid dishwasher, but then the heater did not work. The resistance of the heater and the thermostat checked out fine. I thought I reset the control panel by pressing 3 buttons 3 times in a row (which gave the code 7-1, indicating the heating element). The resistance of the heater and the thermostat checked out fine. The problem, I think, was that I canceled the diagnostic function after it gave the code, so it seems the panel was not fully reset. I had to let the washer go through the full diagnostic process and run through the different functions, (and not interrupt it). That fixed the heater.

-sb

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Hi @kgarnes

You need to check what has happened to the control boards.

Having so many failures in such a short time is too coincidental

Not drying the dishes and not properly cleaning could be several things, e.g. not drying could be faulty heater element, not cleaning could be the circulation pump not pushing enough water through the spray arms to clean properly. Both which may affect the control board as the power for these components comes through the control board.

If you have the old control board you may be able to check what is damaged and then hopefully work out what it controls in the dishwasher.

Without a schematic of the control board it will be very difficult but maybe it can be worked out by looking at where it is damaged and then tracing the tracks from the damaged section to the connectors on the board and see what wires are connected to it and then where they then go to in the dishwasher and testing whatever they’re connected to.

At least this is what I'd do.

If you decide to try this yourself, also start a new question on ifixit giving details e.g. make and model and a brief history of the problem etc as you have already done ;-), (include the control board “board number” - printed on board itself - if it has one, maybe there is a schematic online) and post some close up images of the control board as well showing the damage if there is any in evidence or even not. Perhaps something will be spotted that you may not have noticed. Here’s how to do this Adding images to a new question

It may take a while to find out what is happening as I said it will be difficult. It depends on how much time more than anything you’re prepared to wait without perhaps a conclusive answer.

The alternative is to cut your losses and invest in a new dishwasher

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Did you ever get this fixed? I seem to be having the same problem (not heating during wash, but seems to be drying ok). Any suggestions?

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I am interested in the solution as well, since I am having the same issue. Replaced heating element and the thermostat, and the drying cycle does not work nor does the water heat during a wash cycle.

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same problem on 3rd warranty repair call for it. anyone figure out what is really going on?

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Hi everyone. I did fix it by replacing the Diverter. Replacing the Heating Element did not work, replacing the thermostat did not work. But once I replaced the Diverter, the water started heating to the right temp, and the drying cycle then performed perfectly - dishes were nice and dry and very hot to the touch. Hope this helps.

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Hi Michael,

I'm trying to find the Diverter in the repair parts. Can you give me an idea of where it is located?

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Hi Scott,

Sorry this is late, but the part I bought is:

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-nu...

Part #: W10208691

It was easy to install and made the dishwasher work like a champ again.

Regards,

Michael

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With COVID there is limited availability of new machines. Plus, I here the new machines do not have a drying cycle that uses the element. I had reset mine and it worked well for a week or so. I called for service and since my circulation pump was changed 3 years ago , the technician believes it may be the wiring harness. He’s coming tomorrow. The machine is only three and a half years old. He also recommended dishwasher cleaner be used regularly. I had never heard of this but with fine mesh filters in mine and a turbidity sensor it makes sense. I’ll see what happens tomorrow. But I’m not very confident that only this will do the trick.

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Well the technician came. And after changing the wiring harness he had to change the pump motor again. When I push “heat dry” “Sani rinse” and “high-temp wash” the dishes come out clean, but only when I press those three. Also I don’t believe the “heat dry” work. Wooden handles on knives are soaked. Anyone else end up where I’m at? No “heat dry”

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Sounds like it could be the heating element but before changing it you should try the diagnostic/reset cycle I previously posted.

1. Power cycle - Shut off circuit breaker for 5 minutes then turned it back on.

2. Diagnostic/reset cycle - For my model this involved pressing any three buttons in succession three times. The machine runs for a while switching between cycles and testing all components.

3. Drain cycle - For my model this involved pressing and holding in the “cancel” button until the machine started the drain cycle.

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I have a kitchen aid also. Bought used(Could've been a mistake) and it apparently hasnt washed or dried dishes since we installed it. No heat or very little and no steam. I'm trying the reset steps mentioned in this thread. Need more clarification on the 3 buttons. Any 3 buttons? Is the start button one of the three? Is it the same 3 buttons 3x? Repair man said could be pump but it seems to move the water and drain it just doesn't heat. Or is it ready to be scrapped?

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Hi @dansdish

What is the model number of the dishwasher?

To check if it washes but just not heats the water, place both of the spray arms in a remembered position and then start the dishwasher.

After it fills give it a few minutes to start washing (can you hear the circulation pump operating?)and then open the door to stop the cycle and check if the arms have moved from their "set" position and also if the upper and lower racks are wet at all.

If so this proves that it is washing at least. The circulation pump forces water through the holes in the spray arms which causes them to turn

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I have the same problem. Computer thinks heater isn't heating, but really the circulation pump is not spinning. I can get it spinning by hitting it with a hammer, but then it leaks water out of its housing. If there is no circulation, there is no heat transfer from the heater I'm guessing, and then the dishwasher infers the heater doesn't work but can't detect that the circulation motor is seized.

UPDATE: yep, the circulation pump was leaking, rusted, and seized. Replacing it fixed the "Heater not Heating" error code and fixed everything else. It's an easy fix, just be careful not to rip the rubber grommet holding the intake side of the pump. The entire grommet simply slides out of the sleeve it's in. Don't use a screwdriver to pry it out. Just twist and pull it.

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