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Released in 2010, the Logitech G27 is an electronic steering wheel designed for Sim racing video games on the PC, PS2 and PS3.

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Steering Wheel not activating

Plug in the USB cord and nothing happens .. the wheel should move both directions. everything else works fine. it seems that the power it's getting to the motors. i viewed a video that it my have to do something with the circuit board 12R. any ideas?

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Same problem with G25.

Checked and works:

  • power supply
  • Motor (one looks smoked)
  • USB (Pedals and Shift Gear works)

Isn´t Working:

  • Calibration dosn´t start
  • Wheel dosn´t work

I think it is something between the big chip (should be a mikrocontroller) and the motor. The motor is not starting and until the calibration isn´t done, no data from the X-Axis will be send.

I have checked the resistors mentioned in the video. Both are fine. I will check the others later.

The cover was warm, when the wheel broke. So i will add a cooling.

Update (23.12.2018)

I have repaired mine. After spending several days on just searching the Internet, i can say that there isn’t “the way” (see at the end) to repair this. For searching the error you should have a bit knowledge of electronics. The following is for G25, but should also be for G27 and G29. This is a collection of things that can be the reason the wheel is not working. You should check in the order i have written it.

  1. Check if you have a power supply, and check if it delivers the right voltage (24 V for G25). Without a power supply the DC motors can’t turn the wheel. Whithout turning the wheel, there is no calibration possible. Without calibration the padals, shifting and buttons are working, but the wheel (X Axis) isn’t working.
  2. If the wheel starts turning for ~ 0,1 Second, then the power delivery and the motor driving circuits are fine. There are good possibilities, that the encoder isn’t working. The encoder is under the black plastic cover on one of the two DC motors. But you have to dissassemble the whole wheel. If the encoder is loose, then fix it. If it isn’t loose, then search for replacement. There are several descriptions and videos in the internet. Search for G25/G27 Encoder.
  3. If power is good, but nothing happens, check the fuse and the big resistors. If Voltage is fine go to the next point.
  4. If nothing happens, but there is Voltage after the big resistor (maybe you need more force to turn the wheel), check the MOSFETs. These are the two 8 leg SOICs on the top of the circuit. Below the connectors of the motors. Measure the electrical resistance between the legs. If i remember correct, then it should be around 1,4 MOhm. If it is below, replace it. But be careful, some legs are connectet internal and over the PCB. For the checking and replacement you should have a bit knowledge about electronics, MOSFETs and SMD soldering. By the way, you don’t have to use the same. I have used stronger ones with the same pinout. Measure again after you have done the replacement and write it down (See next point).
  5. If the mosfets are burned the second time and maybe the wheel is calibrating in one direction but not in the second or you need more force to pull it in one direction and less force for the other direction, check if you have replaced both mosfets. If one of the MOSFETs is damaged it will kill the second one. Because one is connected to +24 V and the second to GND. Each MOSFET has 2 channels. One channel of both mosfets are connected together and are connected to one wire of the DC motor. The second channel to the second wire. So the motors can turn in both directions. If one MOSFET fails, the seond one is connecting 24 V to GND…. ouch.
  6. If both MOSFETs were replaced and burned a third time, check the DC motors. Disconnect them and measure there electrical and mechanical resistance. Try them on ~ 3 - 5 V. On one of mine the bearing was stucked, so the MOSFETs were overloaded. Some cleaning, a drop of oil and some MOSFETs later it works.
  7. If both MOSFETs were replaced and burned a third time, but it isn’t the motor, check the big diodes between the motor connectors and the mosfets.
  8. I have also read about a thin coal surface from the coals of the DC motors, that shorten the MOSFETs. Open the motors and clean it.
  9. There is also a video on the red video plattform, showing a guy replacing some resistors.
  10. Coolingmod is strongly recommended.

Maybe some one can translate it in a better english than mine.

Rdini: Can be the MOSFETs

Dodger 76: Can be the motors

Luca Weltert: 41.6 V sounds strange. G25 is 24 V. Maybe G27 or G29 uses 48 V and the 41,6 V are to low.

Sugar Bomb: You can’t calibrate it manual. If the encoder fails (~ 0,1 s) the calibration is stopped. Like you have found out: You need a power supply.

Magnus Buinevits: Can be the Encoder.

So this is not the same problem. I think every one of your G25/G27/G29 has a diffrent problem.

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what mosfets substitutes are u used ?

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Thing is I've opened up the g25 countless times now and after that first post I found I needed a power supply so got that and it's worked for about 8 months then sold it to my mate and it just stopped working when I got to hit house, I used it 10 minutes before we went over and the encoder disc looked fine, no cracks and it was still on the shaft. But it does pulse for 0.1 and the light on the shifter just start blinking.

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the solution is you have to make sure that the port is USB 2.0

not 3.0

had this problem before

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Personally with my PC my wheel doesn't care about USB 2.0 or 3.0 but I just us 2.0 to be safe and the wheel has been working a dream since I got the necessary power supply it's meant to come with.

por

Before posting such solutions please make some research or testing. Such postings dosn't help anyone. For Sugar Bomb Gaming and me this wasn't the solution.

In a USB connecter the USB 2.0 and 3.0 are indipendently. The USB controller translates the USB 2.0 tu 3.0. So "the" problem is not the wheel, "your" problem is your USB controller or USB hub. Try if other USB 2.0 devices dosn't work.

por

@luckybear...well it's funny you are going out of your way to make this point, prob years old now, but i recently had this issue, and logitech themselves replied that the device is NOT compatible with USB 3.0, and frankly i can't figure out the reason if this is wrong, and iv'e been trying to solve it for months the guy going on about circuit boards etc...is way of...this is a config problem be it hardware or software, of that i'm sure

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I have the same problem so far I have changed the the main board and the optical enhancer I'm now waiting for a new USB cable I will let you know what I find to be the problem

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Hello, I have a similar problem, I wanted to ask if they could solve.

por

Did you determine the issue? Having the same problem.

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Hi there, sort of similar problem, I enclose a Link to a video, maybe someone konows what is it going wrong.

Without force feedback everything seems fine, but the wheel only turns slowly, never gets hard, voltage out of the amp is 41.6 v, isolation of the cable is good.

https://goo.gl/photos/tHGf3QA3Bzcccdw56

Any solution?

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I'm have the same problem to but with my g25 and when i turn the wheel to calibrate it for the steering in a game it doesn't pick up the x axis of the wheel, and my clutch pedal does work either. if someone find a way to fix it that would be awesome!

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Same kind of problem, but it's pulsing ever so slightly, not enough to move itself though. Something about the encoder seems to be broken, did the exact same thing when I removed the cable connecting the optical encoder.

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has anyone found a fix for this. I am getting very frustrated with this. been trying to fix it for 3 days now and I’ve tried everything the internet says but nothing works

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I found out after looking around that the wheel is meant to have a power supply but mine didn't come with one so I got one off eBay and it now works mint

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lol....if only mine was that easy to sort out...

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I have a g27 wheel...i have verified my wheel,my optical enconder and g27 and all motors are ok...my pedals,shifter and all buttons are working properly...Do u have a ideea what s the problem?The wheel don t calibrate when i start the pc and don t work anyway....but butons and all are working...maybe be the power adaptor? I had lucky one time to calibrate properly but when i restart the windows this has stopped working..(I kept putting and unplugging it and it started to turn)...the power adaptor i think it it..the green light from the shifter is on 50% and must be 100% when calibrate....i don t know why all working..maybe it doesn t have enough power i think..i don know Say me one ideea if u want.Thank you so much!

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If the wheel starts to turn every time you plug in the power adapter, then it could be the encoder, the chip or something between.

If the wheel dosen't start to calibrate, then there is something on the power side. From power adapter to motors. Or something between.

Thats the first step to go.

por

I think I'm having a similar problem with my old G25 (sold it to a mate then it died a week later), it jolts a little a few times when it gets plugged in but power light keeps flashing, no force feedback, don't think the buttons work but can't remember but my mate said he saw a flash from inside the wheel and some sound right before everything died

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I have the same problem with my g27 all the buttons are working but the steering is not

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Hi. I had some problems with my G29. Time ago started to smoke the engine on the right side, the one without encoder. so i decided to buy a new one. I mounted it and then i’ve reassembled all, but the wheel is not working again. It only make the blinking light like when there’s only the usb connected but not the power supply.

I tried changing the 24V power supply (yes, for G29 is 24V). Nothing changing. Also the pedals are working but not the ffb or the wheel axis.

What can i do?

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I'd say make sure you've got power to the motors, if not trace up the circuit board to the supply because you may have cooked the board. Also NEVER, EVER! use the $@$*!& ebay supplies that say they're for g25-29 and are 24v 2a, you want as close to the original 1.75a if you need more help just add me on discord and say your the guy with the cooked g29, Sugar Bombs #8689

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Hello! Having the same problem. Simply stopped working out of the blue. Connecting the USB cable does nothing. No lights.

Found the USB connector port on the motherboard's side to be shorting red and grounds out (cable is 100% fine, luckily). R12 resistor was burnt, so I replaced it with a structurally stronger one, but with definitely similar stats. Now when I plug the wheel into USB, that same resistor gets extremely hot.

The power adapter is also apparently fine (23.6V).

Help really appreciated, as buying a new motherboard is out of the question and definitely looking into proper repair.

Hopefully it's not too late.

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UPDATE: Bad news. Got news that the controller on the board is shorted and apparently can't be repaired/switched out. New motherboard being pretty much the only way to go.

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Hi i have a logitech g27. My problem is when i try to put it in my pc and power supply nothing work no conection from windows and nothing led in gears i have measure the volt and its fine 24V and the usb voltage its fine i cant find any solution in my problem.

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Please I have Logitech G25 but is it not working anymore the light on the shifter do not turn on at all if I plug it. Please I need help.

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Try all the ways to get it to work

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just got notified of this thread from my email, i guess nobody has posted since, must be 6 months or more now, anyway i have 2 g35,s one developed an issue where after a few seconds the steering went lose so i bought another (wheel only) didn’t try it for ages then when an nvidia update was pending i decided to try it and it worked, for some 5 mins or so, so i knew it was working, and that i had not accidentally plugged in the wrong one, this is win10 of course….anyway i was going to properly use it later, , but decided to reboot the request from nvidia which was pending, unusual because nvidia updates don’t usually require an update, so i rebooted and tried the wheel shortly afterwards and nothing/// the wheel still shows in the logitech software as do almost all the inputs except the most crucial one the steering, as well the wheel wouldn’t do it’s self calibration routine when i plug in the USB, after that i tried many things contacting logi and nvidia and i could not get a fix…..since then that pc has blown for different reasons and i now have an all USB3 mobo, and a reinstall of the OS, and i still have the wheel and it still won’t work, though i KNOW it is still working something to do with those updates or windows settings or possibly now the usb3 interface means it won’t work, but i know there is no fault, hust hoping this maybe re-energierses this thread, though unfortuneately as you can see i don’t know the answer to your proble, other than say, it may be nothing to do with the wheel itself because i know that’s the case with mine…

this board could do with fixing, seems as if you try to edit a post, it causes problems with posting…p

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The most common problem is that overtime the motor brushes, leave carbon on the commutator. This causes the power transistors to burn out.

Either replace the motors or clean them, and then replace the power transistors. On ebay they sell spare boards but if you have not repaired the motor , you will just burn out the transistors again.

I am probably going to buy the Fanatec CSL DD hub (costs about $599) and somehow get it to work with the Logitech wheel.

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