Jon

We received a Pixel 2 XL that had camera issues. So we ordered a replacement camera for it and replaced the old camera....

There are so many solutions out there, but I haven’t found any solution for this issue yet. We have seen it on a few...

The short answer is that the two most common reasons touch on the home button becomes too sensitive are that the cable has ripped, or there is liquid damage to the home button. If the cable is ripped, you can try to “fix” the traces, but they are ridiculously small. If it has water damage, you can modify the resistors. (I wrote a blog post explaining in more about how to fix these issues in more detail. See link below) https://www.macaleginelectronics.com/blo...-7-home-button-issues/ The cable usually gets ripped when you tighten the screw for the home button flex grounding plate (see image)

I have yet been able to find a solution to the problem, but I have found a fairly definitive way to test for the issue. Answer to your first question: If an LCD is changed and you do not swap the components on the LCD, Face ID will error out when you try to set it up. It will also tell you that Face ID failed to initialize when your phone first boots up. To answer your second question there is a lengthy explanation, but I will try to keep it short. I made a compilation of images including using the image provided by iFixit. The iPhone X flex has a proximity sensor (Red circles) and Flood Illuminator (Orange Square) - The second flood illuminator is with the camera assembly, but it won’t turn on until it starts to “record” your face. I have found that the flood illuminator on the flex will not turn on for phones that have an issue with recognizing your face. This is where it will say “move your iphone higher, then move your iPhone lower” over and over again without ever successfully recording your face. You...

I had this same issue after replacing a charge port on the A5 A520 I finally found the Thermistor near the charge port. It is covered in a somewhat clear glue. Just heat up the glue with a heatgun and you can scrape off the glue. 200-230C should be plenty for this. In my case after scraping off the glue, I found that the Thermistor was not actually soldered to the board, but loosely just glued on to the board. Simply re-solder that darn thing back on, and you should be good to go. If you get an error, temp is too low, this is likely your issue. If you get an error, temp is too high, you will likely need to replace this, or there is a secondary issue. Here is an image showing it’s location. Hope it helps

I know that without this chip, the Wi-Fi will not work. It is called the UTRIP_RF on ZXW, but I am not sure where to find a replacement besides on a Donor Board. You will need a hot air station and you will want to ideally pre-heat the board. Remove all of the underfill from around the chip. Add flux and hit it with hot air. I like to use around 360C. Here are some images of my repair. Good luck. Hopefully you don’t have to run new traces.

In my experience the most common cause of a bootloop an an iPhone 7 is the Audio IC chip… or rather the lack thereof. This chip will loose some of its solder joints similar to how the touch IC would on the iPhone 6 plus. Here are some images showing where it is and how to get to it. The only real way to fix it is to remove this chip, re-ball, and re-solder it back. This does come with some risk and should only be done by an experienced professional. Also, with some of the later updates of iOS, most iPhones will boot up showing only a black or white screen before showing an Apple logo. This alone doesn’t indicate any kind of issue with your phone.

The moisture sensor is fairly sensitive, so if you have been holding the phone while covering the charge port, it is often enough to trigger the sensor. If you are sure the phone is completely dry and you are still having the issue, the only real fix is to replace the charge port flex as it has the moisture sensor on it. If you really need an immediate way to charge it, you can charge it wirelessly until you get it fixed. Some people have had success powering off their phone, then plugging it in, then powering it back on. Once the moisture sensor is faulty, this trick will not always work though.

I am not sure if this will speak to your issue specifically, but the simplest solution is often the correct one, so here is what we have found. The most common issue is that the device is locked to Sprint. Even if you put in a sprint card, the phone will often revert back to the activation screen because Sprint has not activated the phone on their end. From my experience this is the case only when you leave a sim card in the phone once it is past the activation menu, if you don’t have a sim card in the phone, it should remain there without reverting back to the activation menu. If it still reverts back you may have a more serious issue.

For the iPhone 6 in particular, the pressure-spot will occur if the ribbon Cable is slightly longer than the section on the frame (See Image) allows for. This is an issue that can occur when using an aftermarket screen. If you purchased the screen recently, I would suggest asking for a replacement as this is a manufacturing defect. This issue happens when the size of aftermarket chips, frame, and even ribbon cables are not proportioned the same as OEM screens.

Is anyone else questioning this video? That IC chip is responsible for the home button click. Not the Touch ID. If you were to put it on a new home button and then try to use the new home button, you would be unable to use Touch ID.