Minho

Alright, seeing as how I am always answering questions here, I thought I'd reverse the roles here for a bit of fun. I have...

Hello Mac Experts (@mayer, @danj , @reecee and others) I have an iMac 27", Late 2012 that is not booting properly. It is...

This iPad has a dead zone on the left edge of the digitizer, about 5 mm from the edge. I proceeded to do a standard...

Hello Mac Guru's (talking to you @mayer, @danj, @reecee)! I have another MacBook Air A1466, this one an early 2015. The...

Hi everyone. This is a follow-up to my MacBook Air 13” (2014) – Water Damage, will not power on. Thanks to everyone who...

Hi everyone. I have a water damaged (tea) MacBook Air that was dead as a doorknob. No light on the MagSafe, no fan or...

I doubt anything “came loose” as everything is tightly secured in an iPad Pro. Everything you say points to a logic board issue. What is more concerning is the potential history of this device and how (and by whom) was it “refurbished”. There’s a very real possibility that this device was always going to fail at some point either due to a poor repair or that something more fundamental was going on at the logic board level. For example, the screen may have been damaged, repaired and sold as refurbished. But a series of drops over time meant that the logic board was a ticking time bomb, ready to go off at the next, slight impact or drop. As Peter suggests, you could open up the device and inspect it for anything obvious however keep in mind that the Pro series iPads are much trickier to work with the the Air/Air 2 and their clones (iPad 5/6) and you could easily cause a lot more damage just taking it apart. Take a look at the guide first. If it is a logic board issue, board-level repair can be considered but...

You might want to try a new Lightning Port Flex (or one that is known-good) to see if that solves the problem. If that doesn’t work, then consider the following suggestions. Start by testing a bare-bones setup. Disconnect the battery first (always!). Then disconnect the digitizer, LCD, front camera, rear camera and home button extension flex. Now re-connect the battery; you should only have the battery and Lightning Dock flex (new or known-good) connected. Connect a known-good, preferably Apple-original Lightning cable to an iTunes enabled computer. Does iTunes recognize your phone? If so, then you should re-connect one flex at a time until the phone stops working. I would start with the Home button flex first, then add the rear camera, LCD & Digitizer then from camera flex. If the bare-bones setup does not boot, then you most likely have a logic board issue. You could send it (or find a local) to a repair shop that specializes in micro-soldering repair. Sometimes the fix can be straightforward (i.e.  a...

Doing a housing replacement is a hornet’s nest of potential issues. So many changes at the same time, it becomes difficult to figure out what is causing what. I would remove the logic board and connect only the Lightning Flex and battery and then connect it to an iTunes enabled computer. If it is fully recognized, then add one component at a time (always remember to disconnect the battery first) until the phone stops booting and you should be able to identify the defective component. If the phone doesn’t boot even in a minimalist configuration, then you may have damaged Lightning Flex (rare)or the logic board (more common).

The connector for the Volume Button flex should have no impact on the device booting or not. The challenge here is that you made multiple changes at the same time and it becomes harder to understand what works and what doesn’t. Let’s eliminate some variables by disconnecting the LCD and Digitizer. While you’re at it, and depending on the state of disassembly, I would also disconnect the FCAM, RCAM and Headphone Jack flexes from the top part of the logic board. Remember to always isolate the battery first, as shown here. This is a critical step that too many people overlook or think not important. Essentially, you should have only the battery and the logic board connected (don’t forget to put the screw in place to secure the battery connection once your done). Now connect the iPad to an iTunes enabled computer to see if it is recognized. If it is, then you have a good logic board and you should add one flex/component at a time (remember the battery!) until you figure out what causes the issue. If it isn’t...

I would take a step back and start by re-installing the original screen to see if the problem is consistent with the screen or the phone (logic board). I would also closely inspect the flex and connectors to insure there was no damage from the repair. Quick question - did you disconnect the battery prior to removing the display, and connect it only after the display was re-connected? The other thing to try is to remove the screen altogether and connect the phone to an iTunes enabled computer to see if it is recognized. While you’re at it, you could also remove the RCAM and button flexes and keep the phone in a minimalist state. My concern here is your cleaning process. In theory, distilled water in contains no minerals and is non conductive, so you’re approach to cleaning the device is sound. However, in practice, its possible that the “pure” water you used was not as pure as you thought or were led to believe.

This sounds like you may have a logic board issue and certain screens are more or less “demanding” in regards to current draw. Take a close look at the screens your are trying. There isa difference between an original screen, a good quality aftermarket or a cheapy screen. Ironically, some cheap screens work really well and in other cases, they don’t work well at all. If you are a shop, or have access to multiple screens, try to see if the is a relationship between the type of screen and the problem. IMHO, if an original or high quality screen doesn’t work (assuming no flex or connector issues), then you may have a partially damaged LCD drive or backlight circuit.

Chances are that this is a defective replacement screen. However, as you noted, if the inside is very dusty, check the connectors to insure they are free of debris. I would also re-install the original screen, if it still “worked” to see if the problem is consistent with the screen or the phone.

When you say the screen is shaking, I take it to mean that the image is shaking. If that’s the case, then I suspect a defective replacement screen. Touch Disease mainly affects the 6 Plus and the picture you included shows a jittery screen image.

There’s a pretty good chance that the screen was damaged by the drop and that would require a replacement screen. However, you may be luck and it could be a partially disconnected screen. So check out this guide and re-seat the screen connectors. Be careful when you do this and follow the guide to the letter, especially about disconnecting the battery first. If the screen is properly connected, and a replacement screen doesn’t solve the issue, then you have a logic board issue.

It sounds like you may have a defective FCAM module, that is causing excess current draw and shutting down your phone, either because of heat or simply battery drain. Open up your phone and disconnect the FCAM flex to see if the problem goes away. If it does, then you need to replace the FCAM assembly. If this was following a DIY screen repair and the replacement screen was fully populated, then just put your original FCAM Flex in the replacement screen.