Minho

Alright, seeing as how I am always answering questions here, I thought I'd reverse the roles here for a bit of fun. I have...

Hello Mac Experts (@mayer, @danj , @reecee and others) I have an iMac 27", Late 2012 that is not booting properly. It is...

This iPad has a dead zone on the left edge of the digitizer, about 5 mm from the edge. I proceeded to do a standard...

Hello Mac Guru's (talking to you @mayer, @danj, @reecee)! I have another MacBook Air A1466, this one an early 2015. The...

Hi everyone. This is a follow-up to my MacBook Air 13” (2014) – Water Damage, will not power on. Thanks to everyone who...

Hi everyone. I have a water damaged (tea) MacBook Air that was dead as a doorknob. No light on the MagSafe, no fan or...

Can you link to this grommet you refer to? Does the button physically click or is not even clicking unless you get it just right? If the button doesn’t click, chances are what happened is that the bracket is either not aligned properly or it moved. Normally, I would apply a bead of two-part epoxy instead of superglue. The advantage is that you can do minor adjustments in the few minutes following application. After that, you have to let the glue set completely before applying too much pressure. Always be careful with the Home Button, the flex is really easy to damage and as Nick notes in his comment, glue and electronics don’t always mix well. Closely inspect the HB to see if erratic glue or misalignment is the issue.

This is not uncommon for water damaged phones. While the technician managed to clean the device enough to allow booting and general operation, in your case there is still something wrong with the camera/flash circuitry or modules. I would start by removing the front camera (battery first!) to see how just the rear camera behaves with the flash. If that doesn’t help, then you will need to try a new or known-good rear camera to see if this is a “parts” problem, if not then there is a problem at the logic board level that will have to be looked at by a micro-soldering tech.

Error 4005 is usually NAND related. However, before going down that path, you could try to disconnect all of the camera and sensor flexes (battery first!) to see how the phone behaves. Otherwise, the NAND may be corrupted or damaged. This requires a micro-soldering repair.

Was the front camera pre-installed with the replacement screen? If so, it’s not uncommon to have poor quality “small parts” installed in these types of screens. If you still have the original camera, I would put it back in to see if that solves your problem. If you transferred over the original camera, then you may have accidentally damaged the flex, not enough to cause immediate failure. In that case, open up the phone and inspect the flex and connectors to see if there is any damage (tears, kinks etc.).

You probably just got a poor quality screen. Please contact iFixit support and they should help you out.

There’s a lot wrong with this phone, more than you imagine. Here are my observations (1) First of all, this is a water damaged device. You can see the red sticker in the top left corner. (2) It also appears that some micro-soldering repairs (or at least an attempt) occurred because the CPU shield and SIM tray is missing the top sticker. (3) As you noted, missing screws are signs that it was repaired. Losing an occasional screw is not a big deal, they are easy to lose. Whenever multiple screws are missing, it says that the technician was not very skilled. (4) As for the screen, did you disconnect the battery before plugging in the new screen? If not, then you probably blew the backlight circuit, which is why the screen is dark. (5) To test for this, plug your device into a charger or an iTunes enabled computer. Then shine a bright flashlight on the screen. If you can see a dim image, then the backlight circuit has been damaged. If you can’t see an image at all, then it may be the LCD circuit that is...

With the amount of water that infiltrated your phone, it’s surprising that it even works at all. IF there was enough water to get into the speakers, then there is likely water that got under the shields and eventually corroded. It would appear that the only electronic damage affects the speaker subsystem so you will need to remove the logic board, remove the back shield covers (they’re made of conductive paper) and look for corrosion. Clean it off with alcohol and a soft brush to see if that helps. Otherwise, you can try replacement parts (loudspeaker, ear speaker) to see if that solves the problem. If it doesn’t, then it will have to be looked at by a micro-soldering technician.

The iPhone 8 doesn’t have a signature failure with the Audio IC but it is indeed possible. However, it could also be just discreet microphone issues. There are 3 microphones in the iPhone. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203792 (1) The bottom microphone is for Voice Memo and phone calls. (2) The (top) front microphone is used for FaceTime calls, Siri and selfie videos with the front camera (FCAM). (3) The (top) back microphone is used for videos with the rear camera (RCAM). Make sure you update your device to the latest version of iOS and then try to isolate which microphone is not working properly by trying each individual microphone with the related apps above. Check the microphone port holes for dust and debris which could be attenuating the sound.  If the issue affects more than one microphone, then it could be the Audio Codec IC on the logic board. Anything at the logic board level will require micro-soldering so you would need to find a repair shop that offers those services. Has something happened...

This isn’t something I have tried myself but I suspect it would. The iPad mini logic boards aren’t screwed into the housing like iPhones are so you don’t have to worry about proper placement of screw holes. The main difference between the two versions of logic board is that the WiFi only board has a large hole where the RF infrastructure would be. All of the other flexes are universal. So if you already have the two boards, I would certainly give it a try.

Sounds like a dead battery. You can replace it yourself by following this guide.