Retro Gaming Repair

Not sure if it helps, but rather than doing the crazy thing and bridging it, (and without having a clue what ratings they are) I replaced the dead fuse with one I stole from a 3DSXL motherboard. It was tricky to solder as it was slightly too long to meet the solder pads properly but I managed it. Sure enough the PS4 I bought that refused to accept discs into the drive now works perfectly again! I know this is not quite ideal but it sure is safer than just bridging it.

I use a fine sewing needle, dig it down the corner of one of them as far as you can before levering the screw cover up, that way you're less likely to destroy them :) James @ RGR

Depends which cable is ripped. If it's the black one that's the camera. The thinner orange one is speaker flex cable. The thicker orange is the top LCD. Hope this helps. James @ RGR

For the record the barrel hinge (white part) slides out of the way much easier if you open the 3DS XL halves to the second 'click' before trying to nudge it. Not quite 180 degrees. Once done it slides out much more easily, just remember to put it back in the same way. James @ RGR

Don't know if you'll see my other reply but if your bottom screen flashes white for a second then there's a problem with the top LCD. Either the ribbon cable is damaged, or its not properly fitted into the connector (hanging out or wrong way round). If the cable is damaged (tears can be very difficult to spot) then you'll need a new top LCD. Hope this helps. James @ RGR

Sounds like top screen cable may have been damaged, or the ribbon cable for it isn't seated properly in the connector if you haven't fixed this already.

Please see my comment in step 29. I hope it helps. James @ RGR

Please see my reply, hope it helps. James @ RGR

Once free, gently pry the top screen out (it's stuck with an adhesive strip round the front of the screen) and flip it downwards. Pull the wifi cable through the ring and away from the ribbons, then roll your 3 ribbon cables up tight and gently pull those too though the ring. Don't forget to remove the black adhesive strip and plastic screen lens to put onto your new screen. Follow the directions in reverse to put your 2 halves together and follow the rest of this guide in reverse to get your 3DS XL working as good as new again. I hope this helps someone, if I get time one day I will take some photos to show how to do this. James @ RGR

Why has nobody posted explaining how to seperate the middle sections? It's actually pretty simple to do. Open the remaining parts of the 3DS XL to the 2nd widest setting (not 180 degrees, just before that). Once done, in the right hinge there is a shiny black piece with a gap in it. Through this gap you can see the white of the hinge. Use a small flathead screwdriver to nudge the hinge towards the center of the 3DS XL. Be gentle, it will slide far enough so you can almost seperate the top half. If you do it right it will be just shy of clearing, so gently bend the right hinge just a millimetre or two and you will be able to pull the barrel hinge side clear. Don't go nuts, as you still have to carefully thread the ribbon cables out through the slit of doom, making sure not to get them caught on the wifi cable. Continued in reply...

Don't know if you fixed this but it could be caused by a bad wifi board. Have you tried replacing that?