mnoivad

This info was not included in your original post. Had it been then the diagnosis changes: The micro USB-B port needs to be replaced. MicroUSB ports are designed for failure, thanks to their small size & usual lack of any additional means to secure them to the board (I notice your model does have additional clips that secure it). After a lot of use the insertion force required causes the solder joints to fail or the pins attached to the socket to break. [MiniUSB ports that are slightly larger and have a “T” shape are much more durable.] MicroUSB-B ports are mounted (soldered) onto the board by precision machines, and not replaceable—however if you are adept at soldering you could get a center mount port & try it. Otherwise the guide for replacing the mother board is here: Kindle Paperwhite 1st Generation Repair That is assuming you can find a MoBo [Motherboard]. These cheap electronics are meant to be disposable so, you could try to replace the port knowing you might make a mistake and end up having to buy...

The fact that it recognizes a device is connected means the port isn’t broken. What it means is that you need to install the driver for the KindleWhite to be recognized OR install an application that works with the Kindlewhite so that the computer knows how to talk to the device. I do not own any Kindles, but I do recognize that error message. It is a driver issue. I would check on Amazon’s support page for the proper driver/application. Not owning one means I can’t tell you exactly what is needed unless I went and looked. Plus, giving you the answer with a URL wouldn’t teach you how to do this for yourself the next time a new devices isn’t recognized, & practice drills in what you learn. Good luck.

Not sure what you are asking. The 5th Gen iPods were called iPod with video & the iPod Classic line started with the 6th Gen. If it’s a 5th Gen you need to format the drive correctly but if it’s a 6th Gen you need to check compatibility. 6th Gen are limited to 120GB (non-native drive I am assuming) according to info on MacSales.com (link below). If it is a 5th gen — not a classic & it’s not working I found this dated guide: https://command-tab.com/2007/03/11/upgrading-ipod-hard-drives/ Fifth Generation can be upgraded beyond 160GB or even 240GB with a Tarkan iFlash SD adapter (single https://eshop.macsales.com/item/Tarkan/B... or dual https://eshop.macsales.com/item/Tarkan/D... ). I purchased a used 5th Gen (~$40 on ebay) and dual Tarkan SDXC card adapter ($80) & threw a 512GB SDXC ($200—Kingston listed on MacSales page purchased from B&H Photo) card (left one slot free for now) in the iPod using the guide and after about 24 hour sync the 5th Gen iPod recognizes ~500GB. (formatting & software eats many...

If the battery is in fact charged (you can check with a meter), then the connection relay could be fried on the board or the cable could simply be mis-seated. Try recheck the connection from the battery (reseat the cable it for good measure), and hope the power section isn’t blown. If you paid for this repair, then take it back the shop and get them to fix their mistake.

Since the problem changes based on startup and what graphic is displayed it is probably a bad graphics chip. If a machine is okay upon first start up, but something gets worse it remains powered on, that usually points to a heat issue. The fact that the quality degradation depends on what the OS is trying to display and nothing else is affected, indicates a hardware or firmware video chip issue. Given that heat is a factor, I would lean toward it being a hardware issue.

That indicates an incorrectly seated video cable. If all the pins are not seated into their socket properly thanks to damaged pins or careless assembly, you’ll get vertical lines across the display. Most likely, when you dropped it the display cable that attaches to the logic board became dislodged slightly. You probably just need to pop it open and reseat the cable. If the cable isn’t permanently attached to either end, reseat both ends.

When an iPhone touchscreen fails to respond to touch events that means either the digitizer which is permanently fused to the display is bad or the cable from the digitizer to the board is either broken or incorrectly seated. (1) examine the connector for any sign of damage (especially where it connects to the logic board). if it looks okay (it might not be even with careful inspection): (2) try carefully reseating the display connector If that fails then replace the display assembly. It is exceedingly rare that the logic board is the culprit with light water damage since they usually short out completely when water gets into them. What usually happens in moisture gets somewhere in between the display and the digitizer and shorts out the digitizer. I’ve seen this happen on more than one capacitive touch screen when water doesn’t completely destroy the device.

Without the exact drive model there is no way to find out the exact wattage each drive uses. (I wish iFixit printed drive specs like OWC does.) I tried to find the specs sheets for each, and it looks like the Hybrid use a bit more power — between half a watt and a watt depending on activity (active 2.5W vs 1.5–2W) and about half a watt more while idle (.9W vs. .55W). It could be ~5% less battery life with the Hybrid. So, over 5Hours that would be about 15m less operating time. (This is assuming I found the right specs sheets.) If this is the seagate hybrid you are considering. it uses more power all around: http://origin-www.seagate.com/files/www-content/product-content/momentus-fam/momentus-xt/laptop-sshd/en-us/docs/laptop-sshd-laptop-thin-sshd-data-sheet-ds-1784-1-1302us.pdf Toshiba MQ01ABD Specs http://storage.toshiba.com/storagesoluti...-notebook/mq01abd-series FYI: I had this model MBP and upped the RAM to 16GB, and the performance difference was significant. I recommend everyone running 10.7 & up to...

I was in and out of the device within 30 minutes while taking pictures to tweet later. It would have only been 15 at most without pictures. This is my second time in this iPod (the first time to replace he HD with a SDXC adapter to up the capacity by >10x. Fun Fun. It went smooth as always, but the battery was a PAIN to remove since the adhesive was practically baked on. I broke one of my opening tools too this time. But my iFixit toolset is like 5 years old, but was worth every penny. Buy a prokit & you’ll use it all the time if you have a lot of electronics & friend who break their phones :).

The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

The standoff in the upper left of the picture is not magnetic on the phone I repaired, so I used my tweezers to place it. It said in Step #7 that that screw was not magnetic. On my phone it was. So, either I have different parts or the magnetism note was accidentally swapped.