Yeah, all batteries generally come with the wires but would be way more difficult to solder this side than on the board, the other side where you soldered is the same I did as well as others, those who soldered from the battery side are either wicked solders or brave as !&&* haha!
STEP 3, PIC 2: This is the area on the far right side of where to work from for others coming to this guide! :)
Had this headset since 2014, best headset I’ve ever owned and the only issue I had which is no fault of anyone but wear and tear over the years; battery depletion haha! Anyway I came across this guide and was so happy I didn’t have to go out and buy a new headset as I wanted my wireless functionality back, I had to source the battery elsewhere due to shipping restrictions, I bought the same one looking for SRP603443.
All in all, the guide was perfectly fine for me, but as bigalsworth1 pointed out, some people might have attempted to solder the wires off the battery and not directly from the board inside the speaker cup! So only pin point to address on the guide is to say about soldering the wires from the new battery to the points in Step 3, picture 2. This would be a massive help for those who need a dummies guide (this isn’t a dig at anyone before I get shot at, just an added help as bigalsworth1 pointed out too! :)) but again, thank you so much for putting up this guide, it was a god send for me! :)
Not quite as thorough as the other Joy-con tear down but always a handy thing to have, going by the pictures it gave me all the information I needed personally concerning the screws, so I was able to strip the whole controller down and swap it into another shell. It is straight forward once you get in to it and have to give the author their much deserved credit for posting this up!
Used this guide for reference on the tools needed, someone else pointed out to use the J00 bit instead of the P00 and I’ll second that as the fit for the screws was much better, thanks for the guide much appreciated!
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