Marty Swartz

Internal speaker is not working. I have a spare (dead) machine I can use for parts. The speaker APPEARS to be fastened to the...

Hello, Alfonso - It depends on two things: 1) If the connector pulled off of the board cleanly, without structural or mechanical damage. 2) if you have the skills to do surface-mount soldering, or know somebody who does. Probably needs a microscope, very steady hands, paste solder, and a hot-air soldering station. It is a very challenging repair. Good luck!

"Ripped off" is indeed the right word. You got ripped off because Apple (and a lot of other companies) were ripped off in a case of industrial espionage. Here is a Wikipedia page that goes into the gory details. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_p... It's a no-win story for everyone involved. I have worked on a TON of G5 iMacs, many with bad capacitors. I have also seen iMacs of the same period that are still trucking along happily, not a single visible bad cap. It's just the luck of the draw. Apple did have an extended replacement program. So did Dell, and I'm sure others manufacturers as well. In terms of buying new equipment from Apple, the "capacitor plague" problem is now behind us. Support services are excellent, IMHO, especially if you can take the system to an Apple store and talk to them in person.

Absolutely! I had a similar machine, one with a failed display. I chose to remove the display + lid completely - hinges, cables, and all. It worked just fine: If you choose JUST to remove the LCD panel, and leave the frame and cables in place, for better cooling I'd leave off the "lid" and remove the magnet that's associated with the "lid closed" switch. Hope this helps!

Hm, what step of reassembly is causing trouble, Phillip?

My understanding is that the original Apple cable tends to fail, slowing the speed of hard drive access, but not stopping it outright. I replaced the cable, and changed to a SSD hard drive, and now my machine is SCARY FAST!! Happy, happy. :)

Sorry to hear this. Yes, you can use the machine without the subwoofer. To be safe, cover the subwoofer plug with some electrical tape so that it can't cause a short circuit somewhere.

Excellent! I took an MBJ58 apart to remove accumulated gunk, and the resistance spring jumped onto my worktable before I noticed where it came from. Thanks for the help, well done!

This is a good time to ask something that has puzzled me for a long time. What is the significance of the parenthesized sections of an LG Phillips display code? Here we have LP154WT1 (SJ) (A1) GD. I suspect that LP means LG Phillips, 154 is 15.4 inches, and W means Widescreen. Pretty simple. I'll ignore T1 and again ask, what does (SJ)(A1) stand for.

Bottom line here is that I am trying to figure out whether screens with the same MAIN code but different "parenthesis codes" are interchangeable.

Note that there is a black foam pad near the DVI connector at the right rear corner. This is not fixed in place, and may come loose. Be sure to replace it BEFORE you fasten down the keyboard tray.

The two screws closest to the optical drive have smaller heads. (May not be critical.)