Introdução

Use this guide to replace a scratched or damaged rear case on your iPhone 5c.

This guide requires removing the battery. The adhesive strips securing the battery are not re-usable, so you'll want to have a supply of replacement adhesive strips on hand before you begin. Alternatively, you can secure the battery using a piece of double-sided tape. The battery is pretty tightly secured in the device, but the tape will keep it from rattling.

You can also use this guide for reference when replacing the power button grounding cable.

  1. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

      • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

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  2. Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.8 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning connector.

    to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

    V. Jones - Responder

    • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5c that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair on an iPhone 5, 5s, or 5c. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 5.

    • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

    • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

      • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

    • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

    I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.

    V. Jones - Responder

    Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!

    Michael W Mason - Responder

    @mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

    • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.

    • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

    • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

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    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

    very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

    bromanmoon - Responder

    • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

    • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

    • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

    • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

    Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

    Dan - Responder

    Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

    duston -

    The pry point in this photo is spot on. Just be gentle and maybe come in at a little steeper angle.

    V. Jones - Responder

    • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

    • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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    • Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone.

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

      • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    Using a can works really well!

    Amy Dachs - Responder

    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

    These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

    Joe Shirghio - Responder

    I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?

    Michael Allen - Responder

    Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

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    • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

    Why do we need to disconnect the battery?

    Maria Raesch - Responder

    Sorry, I missed the comments on step 9 that detail the procedure.

    Maria Raesch - Responder

    Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

    Jona Wolff - Responder

    Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.

    Peter Hill - Responder

    • Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

      • Two 1.3 mm screws

      • One 1.7 mm screw

      • One 3.25 mm screw

    • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 3.25 mm screw or the 1.7 mm screw in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

    • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size—don't force them.

    In step 9: I think you are talking about the 3,25 and 1,7mm one not the 1,3 and the 1,7mm?

    Siegbert Waldner - Responder

    DO NOT Remove the battery, there is no need to and can cause unnecessary damage! There's a tutorial on YouTube that does it without!

    Alister Malcolm - Responder

    I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

    jacobstevens - Responder

    I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

    Fredrick Apel - Responder

    I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly

    K Jansen - Responder

    good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).

    travismlive -

    When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?

    Chandler Perez - Responder

    no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.

    akronymus -

    did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.

    matt - Responder

    *warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.

    akronymus - Responder

    • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

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    • Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

    • Be sure to only pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.

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    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD cable connector.

      • The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the LCD connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display.

    • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

    I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

    Harold Wallner - Responder

    This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

    vince -

    Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.

    terrymccallum -

    There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

    Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

    Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

    Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

    Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

    Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

    Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

    piet - Responder

    Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

    duston -

    When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.

    The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.

    jimbbo - Responder

    If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

    iBroke -

    • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    Very clear and percise.

    Jessica Fader - Responder

    • Shut your phone down completely before removing the SIM card and tray.

    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press the SIM card eject tool inwards to eject the tray.

      • This may require a significant amount of force.

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    • Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • During reassembly, ensure that the SIM card is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

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    • Remove the 2.0 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the SIM ejector.

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    • Use a set of tweezers to remove the SIM ejector from the phone.

    • Note the orientation for reassembly: the raised portion of the ejector should be closest to the bottom of the phone.

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    • Run the tip of a spudger between the battery and the headphone jack to unfold the battery adhesive tab.

    I didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightning connector assembly. Skip past steps 17 through 25.

    jacobstevens - Responder

    I agree, waste of time and you risk damaging the battery if the adhesive is too strong.

    GotMac -

    the adhesive tab is actually folded back upon itself. Gentle agitation on what appears to be the edge will in fact show you that it is flexible and can be "unfolded". When unfolded, it will allow you to see what they are talking about. GENTLE is the operative word !

    V. Jones - Responder

    I also didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightening cable. I'd say skip it unless you have big fingers, because it is a tight space.

    Benjamin Browning - Responder

    • Pull the battery adhesive tab away from the phone.

    It is a must to use a little heat. In my instance I used some hand warmers. My first attempt was with some older ones that didn’t get too hot. I then pulled out some others and using a little bit of time and several hand warmers it seemed to soften the grip of the tape underneath the battery. Using a hair dryer might have been my next step had my hand warmer trick not worked. USE HEAT!!!! It is your friend.

    V. Jones - Responder

    • Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.

    Pulling upwards with a gentle tug on the now exposed black end of the adhesive tab will reveal a white film (look at the end of the tweezers). This white/black interface will have a small cutout already in the middle. Cut the adhesive tab using this as a midpoint guide.

    V. Jones - Responder

    Use heat beforehand to soften the grip of the sticky double sided tape that is used to keep the battery in place. USING HEAT IS A PREREQUISITE if you want this to go smoother. I also ended up using a little dental floss the come from underneath and then used it to saw back and forth to loosen the grip of the tape. Just take your time and use the magic of heat to loosen the grip.

    V. Jones - Responder

  3. GIVE TOOLS. FIX FOREVER.

    GIVE TOOLS.

    FIX FOREVER.

    Spread the Fixmas cheer.

    GIVE TOOLS. FIX FOREVER.

    Spread the Fixmas cheer.

    • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip as it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

    • Guide the strip carefully around the corner and up the side of the battery. Be careful not to snag it on any of the other internal iPhone components.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling, re-grabbing the strip near the battery if necessary, until the entire strip comes free.

    I pulled the first tab straight up and it snapped. I tried to see if I could pry the battery out but couldn't without bending the battery. So I left the battery in and was able to complete this without removing it. However, I'm pretty sure I damaged the battery. Waiting on the replacement battery now to confirm. Long story short, leave the battery in for this fix!

    lew - Responder

    When I tried to remove the adhesive, it snapped on both sides. Even though I was careful not to bend or twist. But now the battery is still stuck in place. What do I do now?

    lynn - Responder

    Keep reading; there are some additional steps you can take toward the end of the guide. The battery is much easier to remove if you keep the pull tabs intact, but they can be tricky.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My tabs broke. I had to pry the battery out. Took my time and it came out okay. The adhesive residue was a pain to remove though.

    mwtort - Responder

    My tabs broke as well, quite close to the battery's lower corners. Then I discovered a reasonably hot surface to place the phone - my quite old Apple Airport Extreme. I warmed the phone for a couple of 3 minute sessions, that didn't loosen the glue but made it more malleable. Then proceeded to carefully pull the tab on the logic board's side with tweezers, which was a success. After that I could get an old ID card under the battery and push the other tab into itself. That done, the glue basically gave out and the battery was free.

    So my advice would be to use some sort of heat before pulling on the tabs, which will make them a bit easier to work with. It does take some time but result counts, right?

    jukkaharkonen - Responder

    This is the most awful thing: removing the battery. The adhesive holds sooo strong. I ripped it off very soon. So i heated the back of the iPhone with a hair dryer up and opened the battery with scissors. Then i could draw the battery off.

    5c is much better to repair then my last repaired iPhone. A 3gs :-)

    Tanx ifixit. You are the best.

    Achim Graether - Responder

    I don't thnk we need Steps 9 to 12 to remove the battery

    Leave the display attached is you only need to replace the battery !!!

    lmusolino -

    @lmusolino of course you can skip those steps (9-12) but it's risky for those digitizer to be damaged if you are careless while removing the battery.

    John Mark Booc -

    This was more tricky than I thought. I bent the original battery quite hard to get it of, while blowing the phone with a hair dryer. I fixed two 5c's for my kids and I ordered one kit and a extra battery. I didn't understand when ordering that just one pair of adhesive strips came along, with the kit. I partial them using one strip each on the phones. Hope that it will work. Everything seems to work with the phones.

    Peter Rousu - Responder

    Don't pull too hard or it will break just gently apply presaure

    Shsjsjakkaka - Responder

    If u do break the tabs the lift the top end of th battery and get them from that end

    Shsjsjakkaka - Responder

    the adhesive is very strong and does NOT pull free. you MUST use heat (iopener) or similar to apply heat to it. go slow and when (not if) the adhesive snaps you will have to find a way to shove a spudger or an old credit card under the battery. after that, just rub your finger over the adhesive firmly and “roll” it out. this stuff is really nasty.

    matt - Responder

    Whilst pulling the adhesive strips from beneath the battery, I was making sure to not pull too fast and also to keep in flat, not twisted, and it still snapped on both sides way before I even got half way… I haven’t had my battery replaced at all so the adhesive should be authentic Apple factory standards. Be SUPER careful at this stage people, I’m going to try and remove the battery with the adhesive in place :S

    Steve Hind - Responder

    • Repeat to remove the second strip.

    I was able to remove the first strip as the guide discusses in Step#20. When I attempted to peel the second strip, as in Step #21 above, it broke. This left the adhesive strip on half of the battery and I was unable to grip anything. I got some dental floss and threaded it underneath the already free side. I then used a slight back and forth motion to loosen the grip of the other half of the strip enough that I could "GENTLY" pry the free side of the battery up. Taking extreme care not to pry against any components of the phone. I then gently pried the battery up a little at a time along with using a sawing motion on the dental floss to eventually free the battery from the underlying adhesive strip. Takes patience and persistence. GENTLY being the operative word.

    V. Jones - Responder

    At this step, be VERY careful with the two gold-colored prongs (pins) right next to the lightening cable port. If you crush/bend/collapse these pins, they won’t make contact with the screen side when re-assemble the phone, making your Home button non-functional.

    If accidentally collapsed the pin because you pushed on it, be VERY careful bending it back. You have one shot at getting this right. Over-bending leads to the pins breaking off, and then you’re really f’ed. That’s what happened to me, and I had to solder some tin onto the base to build-up to the right height; very tedious.

    https://s.real.com/jnjcW3 This shows photo of what I’m talking about.

    Jack Chang - Responder

    • Remove the battery from your iPhone.

    • If one, or both, of the adhesive strips tears, and you are unable to retrieve it with a set of tweezers, do not pry the battery out of the phone. Continue on to the next steps to safely remove your battery.

    Use heat before attempting to remove adhesive strips. They will break. Heat helps tp loosen the grip and is your friend. Dental floss can also be a good helper to saw back and forth once you get it under one corner of the battery. Go slow and take your time. USE HEAT BEFOREHAND. I FOUNF THAT IT TOOK A GOOD 3-5 minutes to get everything hot enough to loosen the grip of the tape.

    V. Jones - Responder

    • Follow our iOpener heating instructions or use a hair dryer to heat the adhesive securing your battery to the rear case.

      • Lay the iOpener flat on the backside of the iPhone to the right of the camera. Smooth it out so that there is good contact between the back of the iPhone and the iOpener.

      • Let the bag sit on the iPhone for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to remove the battery.

      • If using a hair dryer or heat gun, heat the back of the iPhone until it's slightly too hot to touch.

    • Do not apply heat directly to the battery.

    you can substitute a 'bed buddy' or similar microwave activated heating pack here for the iOpener. i eventually wound up working on-top-of the heading pad as at softened the adhesive. take your time and let the heat work

    Pritchett Harris - Responder

    A hairdryer works too. Aim it at the same spot on the back of the phone, don't let it get too hot though.

    Dan Harris - Responder

    Instead of using the iOpener, I opted for my “patented” “Rice in a sock” and heated the sock for 1 minute, which worked perfectly. I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip! My wife uses this for when she has head aches, which caused “me to not have a headache”, when peeling back the adhesive strips!

    iScott - Responder

    • Carefully wedge a plastic card under the battery on the side nearest the logic board.

      • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

      • Avoid prying near the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the upper component ribbon cable.

    • Slide the card from the top of the battery to the bottom, pushing toward the edge of the case.

    • If necessary, repeat the same procedure with the case side of the battery.

    A picture of the position of the upper ribbon cable would be useful here. I have falsely thought that you only have to be careful around the top edge of the battery that is near the logic board, and have managed to cut the upper component cable with the plastic card.. :(

    Daniel Boros - Responder

    The third bullet of this step has a link to two photos of the cable.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you’ve pried the battery out near the bottom, you might want to reseat the speaker assembly after putting the new battery back in - it’s very easy to knock the speaker and lightning connectors loose when getting the battery out this way.

    Tom Reeve - Responder

    I destroyed the ribbon cable that runs down the side of the case toward the headphone jack (not mentioned in the instructions!) while trying to wedge the battery out with a credit card. Am I SOL or is there a fix?

    Peter Hill - Responder

    Sounds like you hit the upper component cable mentioned in red in the instructions. “Avoid prying near the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the upper component ribbon cable.” You’ll likely need to replace the cable, or use on-screen accessibility button replacements. If you’d like to post photos to our Answers Forum, you may get more specific help for your situation. Best of luck!

    Sam Lionheart -

    • Lift and remove the battery from the iPhone.

    • There should be no resistance. If the battery remains stuck, reheat the iOpener and pry again.

    • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove it before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

    • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

    • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

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    • Use a plastic opening tool to peel the home button spring contact cable up from the speaker enclosure.

    Ensure you note the routing of the antenna cable. Reassembly will require that the antenna cable goes above the corner of the speaker enclosure.

    plisi - Responder

    • Remove the following screws securing the speaker enclosure to the rear case:

      • Two 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screws

      • One 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

    These screws didn't fit our brand new Phillips #000 at all, but they did fit a J #000 just fine.

    Daniel Beardsley - Responder

    The light is not Working if I can get new iPhone 5c if okay with you

    Yashira Cancel - Responder

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the speaker enclosure up from the rear case.

    Adicionar comentário

    • Remove the speaker enclosure. Be careful not to snag it on the antenna cable.

    I’ve done this twice and still cannot understand why we are removing the speaker before removing the antenna on top of it. It gets in the way, and again when you reverse the instructions when you put the antenna on first and then the speaker… I’ve been swapping those steps instead.

    domarius - Responder

    • The far right screw hole on the speaker has a contact bracket wrapped around it. This small part may fall off unexpectedly, so it's best to remove it and note the orientation for reassembly.

      • The flat portion of the contact clip should rest against the speaker, as shown.

    • The alignment bracket on the far end of the speaker assembly is adhered, but may fall off if handled aggressively.

      • The angled end should face up and line up with the outside edge of the speaker.

    Why remove this microscopic bracket? That was the hardest part of the whole job. Just keep it on, but alert people to its presence to ensure they don't let it slip off. But putting it back on was a pain.

    jacobstevens - Responder

    I concur with "jacobstevens". I just left well-enough alone. I made sure that the bracket was intact and that it remained so during the remainder of the procedure so it was ready to go when re-assembling. I also understand why this step exists... CYA!

    plisi - Responder

    • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Lightning connector ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

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    • The Lightning connector cable is lightly adhered to a shield on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently peel the cable up.

    When reversing this and reseating the new component, you really need to give it a push to lock in. Just touching the connectors will make most of the phone work, but you need to have the connector locked in completely for the home button to activate

    EdTechMaker - Responder

    • Disconnect the cellular antenna connector from the base of the logic board.

    This is not the wifi antenna. This is the primary cellular antenna.

    Tom Chai - Responder

    How the !&&* are you supposed to get this back on?! I just can't do it.

    leeprobert - Responder

    I usually hold the connector in place over the socket with a pair of tweezers, and then press it down with the flat end of a spudger.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Remove the following screws securing the Lightning connector to the rear case:

      • Two 3.4 mm Phillips #000 screws

      • One 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

      • One 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

    The lower left corner (yellow circled) screw has probably "screwed" us - for some reason it just won't start turning. Perhaps some glue under this one, needs heat? Anyone else faced this issue?

    Darrell Drake - Responder

    I did not when doing this job. The only part that I found had some adhesive was the cellular antenna cable. Perhaps some heat in some cases is necessary, but go easy on it.

    Timothy Transue -

    Follow Up on this one -- turns out I had loosened the screw already but it got kinda "soft-stuck" and just would not fall out of the hole (or turn any further). I almost stripped it totally but then poked around by trying steps 35-37 in advance, then I found I could turn the screw back inward (clockwise), then back out again, and kind of jimmy it out of the hole to complete the disassembly. I was VERY lucky that it was still usable for the re-assembly with the replacement part.

    Darrell Drake - Responder

    • Gently peel the Lightning connector assembly up from the rear case.

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    • You may need to use the flat end of a spudger to completely free the assembly.

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    • Remove the Lightning connector assembly.

    • There is a small rubber gasket attached to the microphone. Be sure to transfer it to the new assembly.

    Pay close attention to the orientation of the microphone gasket.

    There is also a small rubber gasket on the headphone jack that should also be transferred.

    ypolashek - Responder

    Yeah, that darn headphone jack gasket got me. I didn't notice it at all until it fell off the old assembly.

    plisi - Responder

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the audio control cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Disconnect the rear facing camera cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

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    • A small piece of tape may obscure the logic board grounding clip. If so, use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape.

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    • Remove the following screws securing the logic board grounding clip to the rear case:

      • 1.2 mm Phillips #000 in the top side-wall

      • 2.5 mm Phillips #000

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    • Use tweezers to remove the logic board grounding clip.

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    • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

      • Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws

      • Three 2.7 mm standoff screws

        • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

        • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

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    • Holding the phone level, lift the bottom end of the logic board up enough to grasp it with your fingers.

    • Pull the logic board away from the rear-facing camera just enough to expose the gold contact cap under the top end of the board.

    • Remove the gold-colored contact cap from the threaded post in the rear case, and set it aside.

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    • Flip the logic board up toward the volume control buttons to expose the antenna connector.

    • Do not try to remove the logic board from the rear case yet, as it is still connected by an antenna cable on the back.

    Hello, how do i disconnect the antenna on the rear case to put on the new rear case, this tear down never removes this antenna from the rear case.

    Daniel Ambrose - Responder

    • Disconnect the antenna connector from the back of the logic board.

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    • Remove the logic board from the rear case.

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    • Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the rear camera cover to the rear case.

    Think the title was meant to say “Rear Facing Camera”, not “Audio Control and Power Button Cable.

    Cooper Yancey - Responder

    • Remove the rear facing camera cover.

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    • Remove the rear facing camera.

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    • Remove the following screws securing the vibrator motor to the rear case:

      • 1.2 mm Phillips #000

      • 2.2 mm Phillips #000

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    • Remove the vibrator motor.

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    • Remove the following screws securing the upper assembly contact bracket to the rear case:

      • 3.0 mm standoff screw

      • 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw

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    • Remove the upper assembly contact bracket from the rear case.

    • A small rubber bumper may fall off the top of the bracket—take care not to lose it.

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    • Remove any foam tape obscuring the screws near the camera cavity.

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    • Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the power/sleep button bracket.

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    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently fold the power/sleep button bracket down from the top of the rear case.

    • Use tweezers to grab and remove the button.

      • For reassembly, note the orientation—the metal bar should be flush with the bottom of the button.

    • If you can't get a hold on the power button from inside the case, use a spudger to slightly push it in from the outside.

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    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws from the mute/silent switch bracket.

    This step totally confused me.

    I call this the "Mute" button.

    And of course, the photo is rotated 90 degrees from most of the phitos in steps leading up to this. (These are great photos, by the way.)

    Boyd Waters - Responder

    Agreed, the word choice was a bit odd! It's fixed now—"hold button switch" has been changed to "mute/silent switch." Thanks for your comments!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Remove this mute/silent switch bracket clip and set it aside.

      • During reassembly, the bracket clip goes over the mute/silent switch bracket. Ensure the angled portion is to the right.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the mute/silent switch bracket down.

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    • Use tweezers to remove the mute/silent switch.

    • Note the orientation for reassembly: The red line should be at the top of the button. The notch in the back of the switch should be in the same position as, and mate with, the mechanical switch on the cable.

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    • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the volume rocker bracket to the side wall.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to fold the volume rocker bracket down from the side wall. Remove the volume rocker.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to peel the power/sleep button cable off of the rear case.

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    • Run a spudger gently under the flash assembly cable to separate it from the phone.

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    • Peel the upper assembly cable up from right to left to separate the adhesive holding it to the case.

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    • Take extra care in peeling the vibrator contact end of the cable off of the phone.

    • Do not touch the contacts; finger oils can corrode the metal and prevent a solid connection.

    • You can now remove the assembly from the phone.

    Don't forget to remove the WiFi antenna. In the photo you'll see a circular shape directly to the left of the antenna cable connector. Lift this piece of tape and remove the screw underneath. You can remove the antenna with your spudger.

    edunbarr - Responder

    Thank You edunbarr :)

    Daniel Ambrose - Responder

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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crucial information is missing:

when removing the lightning connector module, not only the black "rubber gasket" attached to the microphone needs to be carefully transfered to the new rear case, but also

-the rectangular black plastic microphone filter with the small cylindrical extrusion, which is stuck to the case

-the grid/foam frame protecting the speaker, which is also glued to the case

-the 2 gold connector rings around the screw holes on the upper black plastic part at the bottom of the case.

-the metal piece remotely similar to a "bone" shape, two rings connected by a longer part, stuck to the lower black plastic part at the bottom of the case.

-in general the 4 metal parts screwed to the side of the case, functioning as snap-locks for the front display. (3x with 2 snap lock elements, 1x with only 1, next to the volume rocker

-the black ring round the hole where the wifi/bluetooth antenna goes, underneath the vibration motor.

depending on the case you're getting, all of these need to be transfered.

David - Responder

Also the transfer of the WiFi/Bluetooth antenna is completely missing. In my case the antenna to logic board connector cable broke, so i had to replace it

David -

where is this located Apple Part Number: 821-1769

I replaced old back body with the new one and when I finished this part was still on my desk and gps doesn't get signal anymore :)

Fiiu - Responder

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