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Introdução

Use this guide to replace the complete Retina Display assembly on your Retina MacBook 2017, including the top shell and Apple logo.

  1. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Disable Auto Boot: passo 1, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Disable Auto Boot: passo 1, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Disable Auto Boot: passo 1, imagem 3 %32
    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    Macrepair SF - Responder

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Responder

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Responder

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Responder

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Responder

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Responder

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - Responder

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - Responder

    If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

    Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - Responder

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - Responder

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - Responder

    Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

    Ed Mechem -

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - Responder

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - Responder

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - Responder

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - Responder

    When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda - Responder

    When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

    Ed Mechem -

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici - Responder

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease - Responder

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena - Responder

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 1.8 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Four 2.9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Two 6.1 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Note the orientation of the screws as you remove them—they need to be reinstalled at a slight angle.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    IMPORTANT. You’re not removing the bottom, yet. This step is solely to separate the panel from its clips, permitting inside access.

    Chris Leeds - Responder

    The screws go in tangent to the curve of the case. If you aren’t used to handling small hardware try turning the screw counterclockwise while you feel for the hole until you feel it drop, that means the threads have aligned. It takes only light finger torque when they are threaded correctly

    abscate - Responder

  2. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 3, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 3, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 3, imagem 3 %32
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges.

    • Lift the lower case only slightly to avoid damaging the cables that connect the lower case to the upper case.

    • Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.

    • You may experience a lot of resistance when lifting the lower case. If necessary, slide an opening pick or other ESD-safe pry tool down the side edges of the lower case to pop the two hidden retaining clips free.

    • During reassembly, to re-engage the clips, press firmly near both side edges of the lower case (near where the pick is inserted in the third image) until you hear the clips snap into place.

  3. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 4, imagem 1 %32
    • While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.

  4. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 5, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 5, imagem 2 %32
    • Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle.

    • It may be helpful to prop the MacBook open in this position for the next step.

    This displays two black pics to prop up the MacBook, but the kit only includes one black pic.

    Kyle Swafford - Responder

  5. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 6, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 6, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 6, imagem 3 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button.

    • If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds.

    • If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.

    • This step ensures the MacBook is fully powered down and safe to work on.

    cannot turn on the led after replacing the new screen, even after following the turn on instructions upper…

    Laurent Pierre - Responder

    on reassembly, I had to plug my laptop in to reactivate the LED light

    aaron_vandyke2003 - Responder

    Does anyone know how to turn it back on..? I plugged the laptop in and saw the LED Light, but it won’t turn on

    mmcsorley - Responder

    After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.

    Richard Lovatt - Responder

    It took a few minutes on the power adapter for my computer to turn on after it was reassembled.

    Luk Chl - Responder

    mine doesnt turn on w anything, i forgot to click the buton to disconnect :_/

    cristian.campuzano - Responder

    Same issue as above peeps. Followed ifixit directions verbatim and wasn't getting anything after screwing everything back in. Plugged in original 45W power block and waited, after few minutes battery LED came on and a min. or two after that, was able to get screen to turn on. Hope this helps somebody else.

    Brandon Elliott - Responder

    May I ask how to get screen to turn on. I cannot get it work..

    Xiubo Zhang - Responder

    For those whose Mac won't turn on.

    See step 16

    To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then "PRESS DOWN" on the middle of the bracket.

    There is a connector under the bracket, which you can't see if you don't see under.

    Not having it in mind, you will not PRESS DOWN the middle of the bracket and there is no connect.

    hls2005 -

    There needs to be mention of procedure for getting the repaired MacBook to power up again after the repair is completed.

    I also am running into the issue described by others. MB will not come on again, even after being plugged into power and performing an SMC reset.

    Kinda stuck….

    Carlos Perez - Responder

    Hi, I tried everything and my MacBook will not start up after replacing the bottom case with a battery installed. I decided to put back on the old case with the battery that needs servicing and it still will not power on. I am fairly experienced taking apart laptops I was an Apple service tech for 15 years. this has me baffalled. Any hints BTY the logic board does not show any power coming from the AC charger the power LED is not lit up

    eestern - Responder

    I had trouble with this as well. What worked for me is to plug in power using the stock 29W USB C power brick that originally came with this Macbook. Trying other, lower powered, power adapters did not work. Use this advice with caution as there are multiple (i.e substantiated) comments that indicate that first power up should only be with a 5W adapter! So perhaps try this strict sequence: try with a 5W adapter, then and only then try with the 29W adapter. Or even slightly better, if everything else has completely failed, only then try full power 29W adapter.

    LexxOne - Responder

    How long did you wait to get it power back on? I replaced my logic board and tried to connect the power charger but it doesnt still turn on.

    Herb -

    The easiest error to make when working on this motherboard if applying full voltage after re-assembly. According to the big A, the motherboard on these Macbooks need to be “woken up” with a 5 watt (phone size) charger. Applying the normal 29 watts may render your system unusable.

    Noah - Feb 18, 2021

    Hello Noah,

    It seems your remark is only valid for the 2015 and not the 2016 edition.

    David - Mar 3, 2021

    While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.

    Noah - Mar 4, 2021

    Noah - Responder

    I plugged in my charger and the LED came on. The computer gets warm but the screen is not turning on. The keyboards doesn’t seem to respond to recovery options. Any suggestions?

    J'Trel Sapp -

  6. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 7, imagem 1 %32
    • Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.

  7. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 8, imagem 1 %32
    • Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.

    • Take care not to damage the ribbon cables that still attach the lower case to the MacBook.

  8. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 9, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 9, imagem 2 %32
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

    Where can I find a replacement cable?

    John Comix - Responder

  9. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 10, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 10, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 10, imagem 3 %32
    • Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

    The small retainer flips up about 90 degrees from locked position

    abscate - Responder

    The keyboard and trackpad don't work after the repair, what can I do? They don't even show up in System Report.

    bredelet - Responder

    I found that the connector was not pushed enough in. Works now.

    bredelet -

  10. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 11, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 11, imagem 2 %32
    • Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.

  11. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 12, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 12, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 12, imagem 3 %32
    • Carefully close the MacBook and flip it over once again, so that the Apple logo faces up.

    • Lifting from the front edge, raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.

    • Add a piece of tape near the track pad to secure the upper case and prevent accidental movement.

    • It's possible to open the MacBook all the way and lay both sides down flat, but this may damage the flex cables and is not recommended.

  12. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 13, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    From my experience it’s important to carefully press and hold the small button above left of the Battery Discharge label. Use a plastic spudger or finger tip. The illuminated yellow LED to the right will go off. I believe this discharges remaining electricity from logic board protecting it during repair.

    * I cannot find any documentation to support this, but I have damaged boards by not including this step.

    Chris Leeds - Responder

    What is with the all plastic end of this cable that appears to just be glued right on top of its connector?

    Does the new one just stick back right on top?

    (In this photo it is the bottom side of the cable below the white water indicator sticker)

    Elizabeth Erkelens - Responder

    • As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.

    What happen if you don’t disconnect the battery? I didn’t and I saw smoke coming out when I connected the pad flex cable and the computer still started up

    DSANTIAGOSOY - Responder

    If you don’t disconnect the battery you might accidentally short something on the logic board since power is still running through everything while you’re working on it. You can complete the repair without disconnecting the battery, but you risk accidentally breaking your logic board. It’s much safer to keep the battery disconnected while you’re working.

    Adam O'Camb -

  13. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, USB-C and Audio Jack Disconnect: passo 15, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:

    • 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    I’m at this point and the 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw won’t budge and now I fear it could be stripped? Now what???

    Y'vonne Feeney - Responder

    You could try to cover the tip of your screwdriver with a thin rubber glove to improve the grip on the screw while applying a little more downward force for the initial jolt. That might loosen the screw.

    Tobias Isakeit -

    The USB-C ribbon cable breaks very easily when being attached. Any particular tricks for ensuring that it won’t snap somewhere while being installed?

    bfg737 - Responder

    With my iFixit screwdriver kit, these were Philips #000, not #00.

    Paul Nishikawa - Responder

    This was #000 for me as well

    Adam Hupp - Responder

    I was at the 1.1 mm and couldn't get it open with the 00. I ordered the 000 but it still won't budge. I tried the glove idea and as much pressure as I'm comfortable giving. I'm pretty sure the screw is stripped. Any ideas or advice or am I in trouble?

    johnny gutierrez - Responder

  14. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 16, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 16, imagem 2 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    • To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then press down on the middle of the bracket. Make sure it's aligned correctly, or you may damage the connector.

    At re-assembling, when you reconnect this cable, pressing centre of metal plat is extremely important. You should feel tiny click when it connected properly. I encountered unrecognised external HDD and external monitor through USB-C even though charging in/out was OK, i.e failure of data transmission. I needed to re-open the back cover and pressed the metal plate again, then USB-C connection worked properly.

    Aki Mochi - Responder

  15. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 17, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 17, imagem 2 %32
    • Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector.

  16. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 18, imagem 1 %32
    • Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.

    • During reassembly, orient the ribbon cable so that the side with the white stripe faces you, as shown.

    • At this point it is possible to open the macbook all the way and to lay it flat on a table without causing any damage to the flex cables.

    Make sure at reassembly that you insert the ribbon cable in to the jack board fully. It seems to take an extra push. The white line should disappear when it is seated properly. I didn’t get it in all the way by a fraction of a mm and had no sound (internal speakers weren’t even recognized). Went back and seated the cable fully and sound was back.

    Timothy Dinkelman - Responder

    I had that same problem, too.

    lyonmissions - Responder

    Had the same problem, (no audio after reassembly) it did have the startup chime though.
    after re-seating the ribbon cable, it worked for a few days, but then nothing after waking up.
    not even the startup chime.
    Any body got pointers on how to check if i broke the cable or the board? (looks fine...)

    Christian Stanner - Responder

  17. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Lower Case Assembly Removal: passo 19, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Lower Case Assembly Removal: passo 19, imagem 2 %32
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector.

    I won’t have my daughter’s MacBook with its banana encrusted USB-C port until she returns home during spring break — just doing some homework before then. But if the case can lie flat after the audio board ZIF cable is detached, why do you need to detach the display cable connector (Steps 19-24)? It seems that you could jump straight to Step 25 to replace the USB-C port and avoid those steps.

    John Conklin - Responder

    Hi John, disconnecting the display cable is not necessary, but is recommended to avoid accidental damage to the cable during the rest of the procedure. If you feel confident in the safety of the cable then you can skip ahead. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    I skipped ahead to step 25 successfully by making a secure stand for the display and being careful to not strain cables. If you are decently motor skilled this saves you 15 minutes or so. Not recommended if you live with cats who love little screws to chase

    abscate - Responder

  18. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 20, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 20, imagem 2 %32
    • It's possible the metal retaining flap on the display cable connector may flip open, remaining stuck to the tape.

    • If so, use the flat end of a spudger to hold down the retaining flap while peeling the tape away with the tweezers.

  19. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 21, imagem 1 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the display cable connector.

    • Try to keep it clear of the tape, or it may re-adhere and make cable removal difficult.

    I found it helpful to stick one of the triangular picks in between the table and the retaining flap to keep them separated.

    Kofi Kantanka - Responder

    • Carefully slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the display cable to separate the adhesive holding it to the lower case.

    • Take care not to damage the cable. If the adhesive is very strong, heat the case directly beneath the cable with an iOpener to soften the adhesive, and then try again.

    Great, another new fragile display cable to deal with. Thanks Apple.

    maccentric - Responder

  20. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 23, imagem 1 %32
    • Disconnect the display cable by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.

    • Immediately close the retaining flap.

    • The flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly. Line up the cable with the gold contacts facing down, and gently slide it into the closed connector. Take care not to crimp or damage the cable. When fully inserted, the indentations on the sides should not be visible.

    I’m pretty sure I understand the instructions here, but I had to think about it a little longer because “… must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly …” was not clear to me right away. The retaining flap I discovered, is super delicate, and hence my paranoia, so I wanted to point this out in case anyone else felt like me: ''''Is it correct to assume that your instructions could be interpreted as:

    “After disconnecting the cable, close the retaining flap for now to avoid damaging it. When reinstalling the cable, flip up the retaining flap once again, realign and slide the cable with gold contacts facing down.”

    I bent the USB-C corner of the lower case from a short drop onto laminate flooring, so in I went to shape it so the edge wouldn’t snag or scratch things. I am typing on my MacBook that received the body work.

    Thank you for your guidance!

    John Torquido - Responder

    For @seriouslyjohn and anyone else who might be wondering: “the flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted” means keep it closed. Do not reopen the flap to insert the cable; just insert it carefully while leaving the flap closed. I know it probably runs counter to the procedure you’re used to, but Apple’s documentation is very clear on this, and I have to think it’s for a reason. My advice is to follow the instructions as written and don’t try to reinterpret them ;) Congrats on a successful repair!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Oops! I most definitely did NOT reinsert the cable into a closed connector. We can only wonder why Apple instructed this step to be counter-intuitive. I’ll pay closer attention to any weirdness that may arise, but the MacBook has been traveling and performing as it should; I’m going to avoid reopening the case, as easy as it is, until I have a good reason to do so. Thank you for replying and updating the guide!

    John Torquido - Responder

    I would argue that you should NOT close the retaining flap. I followed the directions to the letter, and when I started up the MacBook, the display did not register since the I wasn’t able to reseed the cable fully without worrying about tearing the cable. I did hear the computer charging and saw that the keyboard lit up, so I knew the MacBook was working besides the display. I looked up another video on Youtube that left the retaining flap open when reinstalling, so I took apart the Macbook again and tried it that way, and IT WORKED! The cable wasn’t fully reseated with the retainer open and I’m not sure if that was my fault or not, but with the retainer flap open, it was easier to see that. My 2 cents. Good luck everyone!

    Sulmo Kim - Responder

    I initially tried inserting the cable with the retaining flap closed (as described), however after completing reassembly the MacBook could be heard to start but without any display action (no backlight, no graphics - also tried resetting the SMC). Being suspicious of this step based on the comments above, I tried re-inserting the cable with the retaining flap open before subsequently closing the flap. It may have just been my perception but insertion with the retaining flap open certainly appeared to result in a more robust mating of cable and connector. After reassembly and reset of the SMC I at least saw backlight action although no graphics still. A subsequent boot into to diagnostics mode resulted in the graphics coming to life.

    Maybe my re-insertion while the retaining flap was closed was not quite correct (although I was certainly trying to be careful), but my experience was that success was achieved making the cable insertion while the retaining flap was open.

    Paul Richards - Responder

    It is kind of nice that I don't have to worry about that. The screen cable is literally plug & play. Super easy.

    lyonmissions - Responder

  21. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 24, imagem 1 %32
    • Separate the upper case assembly from the lower case assembly.

  22. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Audio Jack Board: passo 25, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Audio Jack Board: passo 25, imagem 2 %32
    • Use a spudger to flip open the ZIF connector retaining flap for the dual microphone assembly ribbon cable.

  23. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 26, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 26, imagem 2 %32
    • Disconnect the microphone assembly ribbon cable by pulling it straight out of its connector.

    Does anyone know were I can buy the “microphone assembly ribbon cable“? It is the most delicate cable and cant seem to find spare part.

    Vernon Roth - Responder

  24. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 27, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the audio jack board to the case.

  25. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 28, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the audio jack board.

    After jack replacement my internal speakers stop working. Any solution?

    piotr2503 - Responder

    There must be a bad contact in the jack socket or the card has been damaged, the sound therefore remains blocked on it

    Ludovic - Responder

  26. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, USB-C Port: passo 29, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove two 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the USB-C port.

    I didn’t notice this when removing the USB-C port, but it seems to be a little loose under the screws. I have another MacBook of the same vintage and found that its USB-C port also has a little movement when a cable is plugged in. Not much movement, just a little.

    woikelaw - Responder

    I missed this comment when I did this job but observed the same

    No apparent effect on function

    abscate - Responder

    It would have been a help to have pointed out that actually folding the end of this ribbon cable at the USB C end, as shown in your pictures, before attaching it will help to prevent the cable breaking at one of its inner corners while being installed.

    bfg737 - Responder

    As with my comment above, for me, these were #000 not #00. Other than that, if you work slowly and deliberately, you will find the right angle. It does go in without any force, but you have to find the right way.

    Paul Nishikawa - Responder

  27. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 30, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 30, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 30, imagem 3 %32
    • Use tweezers to lift the USB-C port just over the hinge screws.

    • Slide the port out and up over the display hinge to remove it.

    • There's very little clearance when removing and installing the USB-C port. If there's not enough room, don't force it. Try removing the display hinge screws and moving the hinges for additional clearance, if necessary.

    Successful completion of USBC in 20 minutes with following notes

    1 the replacement part has to have the ribbon folded to match the original or will it foul the display case large screw. You know this when you can’t put the two big Pentalobe screws in on the final case install

    2 my USBC part looks identical to the original, but the port has some motion even with the screws tight. I’m wondering about this a bit. I’m confident I did not cross thread the screws.

    i measure the thickness of the original USB C port board at the two Phillips screws as 325 microns +_25 umicrons

    abscate - Responder

    I found the same problem with the new part moving a lot after installation even with the screws tight, and realised the problem is the new part does not come with the black rubber seal that goes around the connector (you can see it in pic 3 step 25). I moved that across from the old part to the new one and now it seems very tight.

    Gabriele Nicotra - Responder

    Step 25 only has one pic

    John M -

    He means 3rd pic of step 26.

    dmjenks -

    If you are removing the screen (to replace the top case, for example), do this step afterwards. It is much easier this way.

    maccentric - Responder

    No luck, the port seems to be wedged in behind the computer’s hinge. But you need to remove USBC port BEFORE you remove the display. Soooooooo any other tips?

    The screws on the hinge aren’t in the way, it’s hitting right up near the edge of the computer itself.

    John M - Responder

    remove the two screws under the rubber piece to disconnect the display. I didn’t have to completely remove it, just enough to slide the pieces in and out

    Seth Ferguson -

    totally worked! saved me about $550 doing it myself so you have my eternal gratitude

    Seth Ferguson - Responder

    I found it impossible to remove the USB type C port during this step and instead continued with the next 2 steps and after separating the display found that the USB type C port was effortlessly removed……hope that helps someone

    Steve Harris - Responder

    I think it’s a pretty $@$*!& tutorial. Sorry to be blunt.

    It is essentially missing about 3 final steps that show the replacement piece so one can appreciate it.

    I read the tutorial, thought it’s all clear and then bought the piece except it was an incomplete piece. Since the tutorial is missing the last three steps, I could not judge the piece and essentially got lured buying an incomplete piece.

    Mark Schira - Responder

    I don’t understand why here in this picture it looks like the black ribbon is turning away from the port but for the piece I bought, die black ribbon goes in the same direction as the port: Retina MacBook 2016 Teardown .

    Miriam Guth - Responder

  28. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 31, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 31, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 31, imagem 3 %32
    • Remove the two 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the display cable assembly.

    • Take care not to lose the small retaining bracket located under the right screw. If it comes loose, note the orientation shown here for reassembly. The small tab on the outer left edge should be hooked under the perforated metal shield.

  29. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 32, imagem 1 %32
    • Fully open the display.

    • Set the MacBook down on its right edge with the display facing away from you, as shown.

    I found putting the laptop keyboard down on the edge of a table (With screen open, and going down the side of the table) To be easier. It allowed me to put in the torque needed in unscrewing the screen.

    Michael Daken - Responder

  30. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 33, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 33, imagem 2 %32
    • Remove the four 4.8 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display hinges.

    • There may be a rubber cover on the hinge screws. Remove this before removing the screws and replace it during reassembly.

    The screws were tight and my cheapo torx driver from Amazon was not up to the task. Bought a good one and the screws came out easily.

    bredelet - Responder

  31. Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 34, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 34, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2017 Display Assembly Replacement: passo 34, imagem 3 %32
    • Holding the display assembly with one hand and the upper case with the other, push them together slightly to move the hinges out of their recesses in the the upper case.

    • There are only a few millimeters of play between the hinges and the case, so you won't need to push far.

    • Push the upper case forward while pulling back gently on the display.

    • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

    I had to give the screen just a little force here, for it to pop out. Its an incredibly tight fit.

    Michael Daken - Responder

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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2 Comments

Does anyone know the cross year compatibility of these screens. Some vendors list them as 2017 specific, some as 2016-17 and some as 2015-17?

andrew - Responder

I have a 2017 macbook upgraded to i7 etc and i love it, today i fitted an adhesive cover top and bottom but tried to trim excess where I hadn’t done a good fit with a craft knife AND I appear to have sliced into a cable joining top to bottom, it appears to be 1 of 4 around the centre of the mac, been quoted £600 to replace complete top ,is this necessary? , all advice gratefully appreciated.

guerdeval - Responder

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